Pitti Fragranze 2014: MEMO French Leather

by: Serguey Borisov

The novel perfume of the collection Cuirs Nomades, named MEMO French Leather, was presented in Florence, at Pitti Fragranze 2014. If the first collection of MEMO(Les Echappées) by its fragrances brings us to the mystical places of the planet and investigates their attractive force, the Cuirs Nomades perfumes are the journeys that are traced on a leather map. Leather was the first clothing material for human beings, and it had ritual purpose for shamans and functional purpose for hunters and nomads. Today leather is a protective shield, a subtle and elegant way to express yourself, and also the raw material for luxury goods and vanity. For those who prefer leather fragrances, and keeping in mind that the French perfumery and gloves manufacture in Grasse were inextricably linked, the collection Cuirs Nomades MEMO is a heavenly haven so dear for the heart.

But French Leather is quite different from the old French leathers. It has no place for old-fashioned smelly leather that had to be buried under jasmine and rose oils, almond paste, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil and other strong scents. It is a perfume of ease and stealth: lime, suede and rose. 
What is it, this MEMO French Leather? 


Responding to the question, the owner and art-director of MEMO Paris, Clara Molloy (Clara Molloi) reveals remarkable literary ability:

"What is being French all about? Being deceptively casual. Not quite nonchalant. Leather that rises up beneath the rose. A sparkle in the eye. Style, even offhand. Having a table of choice in a favorite café. The smell of suede inside a handbag. A certain idea of style. Talent. Just one cigarette. Lime. Faith in one's destiny. Taking trivial things seriously. Knowing how to combine opposites. Knowing the name of each bridge in Paris. Cedar. Learning to hide one's thorns. The glimpse of a shoulder. Charm. Never being totally lost. Inventing ancestors. Well-placed beauty spots. Pink pepper. Improvising. Being right. Knowing the right moment to undress. Musk. Kissing."

Bringing together the fragrant hints scattered throughout the text we could see a brief for perfumer Alienor Massenet, who always works with MEMO Paris: Leather, Rose, Suede, Lime, Cedar, Pink (Peruvian) Pepper, Musk. In general, nothing that would indicate the French style of this suede flavor. (OK, if you'd include kissing in the perfume notes—that's French, but French Kiss is so Guerlain now.)

French style can be a small detail that adds a little chic and attracts people. It is something that is difficult to learn and cannot be bought. A scarf around the neck, which may be more expensive than the rest of the outfit. Easy laughter as a reply to an unknown waiter's comment and meeting with your beloved one. The desire to live. A handbag that has its own inner world. Love of all the pleasures of life. 
Surprising is the love of surprises and of order that is French. French people are similar to Russian—Russians are famous for their avos (meaning, "sort of could be OK, somehow"), and it's quite familiar amongst French people as an improvisation.

A slightly spicy and transparent perfume of roses and berries, unobtrusive, volatile and very lasting. Lightweight pink rose is accented by pink pepper of Peru, and with a cosmetic musk accord they form the effect of berry lipstick. But compared to Guerlain's French Kiss—not so feminine. There is no gourmet caramel hue in it—a wood-suede tint instead and that's what makes the fragrance suitable both for young men and women alike. 


A little suede and masculine woody fougère presence in the heart (there's at least one man in the life of every French woman! Or is it a French Myth?). It smells a bit like the gentleman of The Green Carnation by Friendly Fur: pink pepper, vetiver and musk combined with woody notes. All MEMO Cuirs Nomades perfumes, while balsamic, serious and dry in the basenotes, are also on a transparent pedestal of cool breeze. In French Leather, the breeze is accompanied by the suede interior of a leather bag. The color of suede is somewhat between pink and flesh-toned, the color that on a woman's face can mean embarrassment, or love, or petit mort, or serious aerobic exercise and so on ...

Alienor Massenet, perfumer, comments:

"Suede is a definitive ingredient for French Leather. Suede smell creates a cozy atmosphere instantly, a sense of ease. The starting point of the creation process was pictures. Clara sent me photos of all the bridges of Paris. The bridge is a great symbol for the perfumer. It gives direction as a rainbow, it moves forward from one bank to another. From roses to suede, from light to dark.

Clara especially liked the Tournelle bridge, right opposite the restaurant La Tour d'Argent. This bridge can be seen in the photographs of the French Leather presentation. It connects the left bank of the Seine from the Ile Saint-Louis. The statue of St. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, is upon the bridge. It is an absolutely charming and magnetic place, which deserves to have its own perfume ... The rose of French Leather had to be like her, without being gaudy or cheap. Wild, animalic, open character, but full of restraint and precision.

The next destination of MEMO is a secret, but we definitely will travel South! Something tropical and exotic. I have to put my sunglasses on, when I work with this future MEMO perfume.

MEMO French Leather

Lime, Pink pepper, Juniper berries, Rose, Sage, Cedarwood, Benjoin, Vetiver, Musk, Suede accord.