Raspberry, Fur and Vice in New Sensual & Decadent by LM Parfums

by: Juliett Ptoyan

The story of wickedness and sensuality goes on: in addition to the demonic Malefic Tattoo, Laurent Mazzone presented another new fragrance at the Florentine exhibition - Sensual & Decadent, which has the chance to become an absolute bestseller of the brand like Sensual Orchid.

The common word in both fragrances’ names didn’t appear coincidentally: according to Laurent, Sensual & Decadent is an accomplished version of Sensual Orchid. It’s a peculiar remix with the same original tune but with some new orchestration. The fans of immaterial aquatic compositions might suspect the brand of flanker release and burst into evil laughter after such an announcement. Unfortunately, not only glossy zines editors speak highly of LM Parfums – the brand is also being admired by those who have no profitable deal with it. And they are right – the brand is worth such admiration! 

The new perfume can be reviewed both as an independent work and the sequel of the story about sensuality which was started by Jerome Epinette in 2012. Anyway, this is not a usual flanker but the concluding part of the story.

Firstly, fuming raspberry caramel runs down the skin, slowly begins to boil, eventually grows darker and shows some almost imperceptible wooden shade. At some point the fume fills with benzoin and tropical flowers and it feels like the silk lining of a new fur coat sliding over naked skin. It seems like the lining itself – not the lambskin on the top - restrains cold air. Sensual & Decadent appeared to be a hedonistic fragrance - women once wore such scents in restaurants while dressed in velvet dresses or formal men's suits. The fragrance is too unveiled to be unisexual. This is the 1990's version of Monica Bellucci from Frederic Meylan’s photoset – she is alone in her bed at last, stretching and contemplating last night's events.

This fragrance is much deeper (there's not fire, but the fume) than Sensual Orchid, it doesn’t pulsate on the skin but stretches, flows over and vapours away as a kiss. It’s challenging – as are the previous works of LM Parfums. The one-night stand just starts and comes up to the climax in Sensual Orchid, but the new fragrance is about everything that happens 'til the logical end: thanks, it was great, keep in touch.

Sensual & Decadent Top notes: lisylang (author’s note: synthetic substance with tropical flower scent), rhubarb Middle notes: heliotrope, labdanum Base notes: oud, vanilla infusion, benzoin

Malefic Tattoo by LM Parfums: Oud, Blood, Frankincense

by: Juliett Ptoyan

Recently, LM Parfums have caught people's attention due not only to their commercial success, which can be common for a new brand, but also in terms of the brand's overall creativity, which happens less often. People love them for their unique aesthetic, expression, and incredible sillage, but not everyone can wear them. The aromas are like a gothic, fanciful interior - black velvet and gilt frames at every turn.

LM Parfums seem like they would suit Yves Saint Laurent well - he gathered a peculiar “army of lovers”, or dedicated fans of his brand, and that turned to be the best way to promote the brand products and fairly present his own style.

Today we are going to talk about Malefic Tattoo (will be added to the database in the coming weeks) presented at the 13th Fragranze. Conceptually it is related toCicatrices, the other Intimacy Collection launch. The designers suggest that the fragrance conceptually represents a tortured heart, held captive in a lover's absolute power. Laurent Mazzone notes, "This is a story everyone has experienced in their lives: those who have power over you always leave marks on your soul. Malefic Tattoo is not just ink on your skin, it is something deeper. It’s a tattoo which will stay with you to the last."

 

The history of domination starts with a dry wine accord through which the thin trickle of frankincense eventually seeps, leaving bloody oud traces – like scarlet drops appearing on skin being pierced with a tattoo needle. The woody undertone of oud takes a back seat here (it’s being almost swallowed up with a metallic blood accord), and then everything happens as in a time-lapse animation: icy, cemeteriallabdanum freezes the whole process and finally there remains only some cool, unearthly air and the echo of sandalwood slivers, dry and crooked as the hands of the 100-year-old witch from the story of Snow White.

I think this is a case when a fragrance doesn’t need any legend, it clearly speaks for itself: here we have submission, then existential crisis and frustration, and finally a torture chamber with a cemetery just outside its window. It is the tale of Bluebeard or one of those believable horror stories about Elizabeth Bathory: full of blood, pain and suffering. And, yes, as a fragrant translation, it is done really well.

Top notes: pepper, cinnamon, saffron, cistus, frankincense

Middle notes: woody amber, oud accord

Base notes: styrax, labdanum, papyrus, musk, cashmere wood, patchouli,sandalwood