Ombré Leather (2018) de Tom Ford

Bom!
Eu nunca me achei muito apto a opinar sobre as fragrâncias Tom Ford por que elas, realmente,  nunca couberam no meu bolso Brasileiro porém no ano de 2018 eu tive experiências muito animadoras com a Grife e uma dessas foi com esse lindinho aqui.
Tive uma sala de aula repleta de alunos fãs maravilhados da TF e matei muito da minha curiosidade. Chego a dizer que desmistifiquei as composições dessa casa que eram um grande mistério para um apreciador de ganhos moderados como eu. Algumas fragrâncias não me conquistaram e outras me deixaram maravilhado apesar de ainda não ter toda a coragem que alguns mais animados fãs tem em gastar "os olhos da cara" com  as famosas e desejadas fragrâncias da TF.
Quando conheci Tuscan Leather fiquei maravilhado com a fragrância, tornou-se para mim uma das minhas preferidas. Em um exercício de sala pedi para que alguns alunos tentassem trabalhar fragrâncias com a estima e a harmonia da referida fragrância. Já estávamos praticamente no final do curso e ouso dizer que nada mais animava aquela turma,  que já havia absorvido conhecimento e passado muitas coisas boas para que eu também conhecesse.
Foi quando recebi meu decant de Ombré Leather.
Como já havia amado muitas coisas que não me cabiam no bolso deixei para avalia-lo com mais "impeto" quando estivesse realmente motivado para isso, o que aconteceu a apenas algumas semanas atras.
Eu amei!
Lembra Tuscan mas ao mesmo tempo é intenso e sensorial. Parece despertar todos os sentidos em uma só borrifada.
E como fica gostoso na pele. É um masculino que honra bem o termo "masculino" porém adorei seu " QA+" na pele feminina.
Registro aqui que não sou fã de âmbar em fragrâncias, deixam-me enjoado e sempre remetem a algo antigo e mofado dentro de uma gaveta com sachês da vovó. Essa talvez seja a minha deixa para dizer que em um certo ponto a composição grita para mim : " Já Deu por hoje!" , então nem me atrevo a coloca-la em exagero pois sei que o amor vai tornar-se ódio em poucos minutos.
Minha pele revelou algo um pouco mais adocicado, com o que eu me atrevo a dizer que seria patchouli porém vou me limitar a descrever como um toque adocicado.
No mais a fragrância sempre se distribui de forma uniforme o que pode diferencia-la de algumas outras fragrâncias couro que conheço e que também gosto .
Ele justificaria um investimento se realmente estivesse em meus planos gastar tanto dinheiro com um pequeno mimo. Entendo que quem tem Tuscan Leather e gostaria de continuar o caminho com algo mais " noir  "não iria se arrepender da compra.

Tom Ford Orchid Soleil (2016)

The composition aims to amp up the tropical floral genre by making it smell fearless and latex-y, hinting at sensorial extremes with its nature-inspired tropical note of rubber, which goes unmentioned by the brand. This rubber note conveys both authenticity and urbanity. It is used here to play on dissonance, but the mind at the same time quickly approves of its relevance to the eco-system it makes us believe it originates from.

Orchid Soleil also introduces a subtle gourmand theme which is never as thick and heavy as a pudding or cake but nevertheless at the level of perception of lightly fragrant sticky rice or fragrant riz au lait. It smells a bit of Pandan leaves scent too, which is actually the analytically correct aroma of so-called « jasmine rice » thanks to the predominance of molecule 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline. Its odor profile has been compared to pop-corn, which might explain why some American customers discern a « tortilla » scent in this perfume - and are turned off by it. We think it's more likely due to an attempt at translating fragrant Thai jasmine rice as a perfumery accord - also not discussed by the label.

After these tropical fireworks, the perfume slows down taking on subtle, interesting woodsy nuances which can easily be interpreted as feeling muggy and jungley while a drizzle of citrus peps up the scent.

What it feels like too however is that the change of regimen from the explosive overture to its subsequent stage is overly contrasted, to the detriment of the perception of the ensuing development, which is quite linear - except for a an upcoming olfactory surprise. Those woodsy nuances tagged as tropical which evoke smoky bamboo shoots filled with fragrant jasminey sticky rice and coconut are great but lack a sense of transition. The structure of the scent feels too dual but more importantly wonky.

Once you get over this absence of a graceful olfactory bridge to a different mood however, the now sotto-voce operating perfume reveals a certain depth but remains linear in its focus on this slightly gourmand accord blending braised bamboo shoots, coconut jasmine rice and rubbery orchids. The press materials refer to « chestnut cream » but until we read about this detail, we did not think about it. Afterwards, yes, it's a possibility.

And here comes the surprise. The fragrance's secreat weapon is a little advertised tangy and metallic (big) sillage, appearing right when you thought the composition had become too thin, which seems to pair aldehydes with big white florals in an unexpected meeting of two unrelated genres. Tom Ford Beauty explain that they used « a high concentration of salicylate compounds [which] offer a spicy, metallic glint. »

While salicylates would be expected in an orchid fragrance, and a solar one at that, it is apparently the dosage which can add this unexpected piercing facet to a big tropical blooming perfume. To the nose, it smells like aldehydes and certainly behaves like them, except for the fact that they do not appear in the top, adding a slight retro, 1950s Hollywood vibe to the composition. You can imagine ladies in corolla skirts, white gloves and patent leather bags wearing this type of both lush and prim perfume. This style would be in sync with Tom Ford's sensibilities and inspiration board, both as a perfume-developer and director.

In Orchid Soleil, two extremes meet: the coolness of aldehydes and highly-concentrated salicylates, and the tropical lushness of femme-fatale flowers like tuberose, gardenia, orchid, red lily, and the fruit of an orchid, vanilla. It's a statement fragrance. It's glamorous. It hints at the past. It's very Tom Ford. It also makes the point that you can name notes but that in the end, abstraction wins. Your imagination is flying on a spectrum of sensations which plays on the themes of the Tropics, gourmand, white florals and aldehydes, and/or salicylates.

Notes : Bigarade, pink peppercorn, cypress, tuberose petals, Tom Ford's black orchid, red lily, cashmere, amber, patchouli, vanilla, chestnut cream.

    

Read more at http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2016/08/tom_ford_orchid_soleil_review.html#oIkeG13OhRd8xqEo.99

Tom Ford Touch Point Collection

por: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic

A partir de agora é possível obter suas fragrâncias favoritas da coleção Tom Ford - Black Orchid Eau de Parfum, Noir Pour Femme e Velvet Orchid em frascos especiais Touch Point que permitem a aplicação do perfume diretamente na pele, na quantidade desejada, para intensificar controladamente a fragrância. Os novos frascos são muito elegantes, feitos de vidro preto (Black Orchid EDP, Noir Pour Femme) e uma roxo escuro metalizado (Velvet Orchid) com tampas douradas que acentuam a extravagância das composições. 

BLACK ORCHID EAU DE PARFUM foi apresentado em 2006 e ele deslumbrou os fãs com uma composição que combina trufas, chocolate preto, patchouli, orquídeas, especiarias... Este sedutor oriental chypre com acordes muito ricose obscuros vem também numa versão de 6ml Eau de Parfum Touch Point pelo preço de 29 libras.

TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID notas de topo jasmim, gardénia, ylang-ylang, bergamota, limão, laranja, groselha, trufas coração especiarias, frutas, lótus, orquídea, gardenia, jasmim, ylang-ylang base vetiver, sândalo, patchouli, âmbar, incenso, baunilha, chocolate, almíscar branco

NOIR POUR FEMME foi lançado em 2015, como parte de um par com a edição masculina, Noir. A extravagância e a sensualidade da composição é dada por uma combinação oriental-gourmand de baunilha, doce kulfi, âmbar e sândalo, junto com delicatos toques florais de neroli, jasmim e rosa. Noir Pour Femme Touch Point 6ml custa 29 libras.

TOM FORD NOIR POUR FEMME notas de topo bergamota, laranja amarga, laranja, gengibre coração rosa, jasmim, neroli, kulfi base baunilha, âmbar, sândalo, lentisco

VELVET ORCHID foi apresentado em 2014 como associação olfativa do mais popular perfume vamp da casa, Black Orchid. Aromas de rum e mel se misturam com orquídeas, camurça, baunilha, um intenso óleo de rosa e resinsa criando a impressão imaginária da presença de uma orquídea negra. O sedutor poder de Black Orchid ascende à "uber-feminilidade" nesta composição, de acordo com Tom Ford. Velvet Orchid Touch Point 6ml EDP está disponível pelo preço de 29 libras.

TOM FORD VELVET ORCHID notas de topo bergamota, laranja, mel, rum coração jasmim, rosa, orquídea negra, orquídea, neroli, magnólia, jacinto, abrótea, heliotrópio base bálsamo do peru, ládano, sândalo, mirra, camurça, baunilha

Os produtos Touch Point acima mencionados podem ser comprados no Harrods.

Tom Ford Touch Point Collection

by: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic

From now on you can obtain your favorite fragrances from the Tom Ford collection - Black Orchid Eau de Parfum, Noir Pour Femme and Velvet Orchid in special Touch Point flacons which enable application of the perfume directly on the skin, in the amount desired, in order to control intensity of the fragrance. The new flacons are very elegant, made of black glass (Black Orchid EDP, Noir Pour Femme) and dark purple metallic color (Velvet Orchid) with stoppers in gold that accentuate the extravagance of the compositions. 

BLACK ORCHID EAU DE PARFUM was introduced in 2006 and it mesmerized its fans with a composition blending truffles, dark chocolate, patchouli, orchids, spices…. This seductive oriental chypre with very rich and dark chords is also offered as a 6ml Eau de Parfum Touch Point version priced at 29 pounds.

TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID top notes jasmine, gardenia, ylang-ylang, bergamot, lemon, orange, black currant, truffles heart spices, fruit, lotus, orchid, gardenia, jasmine ylang-ylang base vetiver, sandalwod, patchouli, amber, incense, vanilla, chocolate, white musk

NOIR POUR FEMME was launched in 2015, as part of a pair with the edition for men, Noir. Extravagance and sensuality of the composition is provided by an oriental-gourmand blend of vanilla, kulfi candy, amber and sandalwood, along with delicate floral and sparkling touches of neroli, jasmine and rose. Noir Pour Femme Touch Point 6ml is priced at 29 pounds.

TOM FORD NOIR POUR FEMME top notes bergamot, bitter orange, orange, ginger heart rose, jasmine, neroli, kulfi candy base vanilla, amber, sandalwood, mastic

VELVET ORCHID was presented in 2014 as an olfactive association of the most popular vamp perfume of the house, Black Orchid. Aromas of rum and honey are mixed with orchids, suede, vanilla, intense rose oil and resins by creating the imaginary impression of presence of black orchid. The seductive power of Black Orchid rises to "uber-femininity" in this composition, according to Tom Ford. Velvet Orchid Touch Point 6ml EDP is available at the price of 29 pounds.

TOM FORD VELVET ORCHID top notes bergamot, orange, honey, rum heart jasmine, rose, black orchid, orchid, neroli, magnolia, hyacinth, daffodil, heliotrope base peru balm, labdanum, sandalwood, myrrh, suede, vanilla

The above mentioned Touch Point products can be purchased at Harrods.

PRIVATE BLEND: ITALIAN CYPRESS BY TOM FORD (2008)

Bingo! My favourite Private Blend scent so far. Or better say, the only one I would say I truly like. I wouldn’t ever spend that money for this, but let’s be honest – this is very good. It’s basically a better (way better) Ralph Lauren Polo Green, which is a scent I moderately admire and really wanted to like, while I couldn’t really – pardon the blasphemy, but I find it (in both its vintage and new versions) too dry, unbalanced, screechily macho and almost vile. Italian Cypress just tweaks the right knobs and fixes that same concept to perfection, creating a very handsome, mature scent with a brilliant masculine vibe miles away the idiotic baseball-hatted “bro” attitude of half of the rest of the Private Blend line.

Basically it’s a very compelling, “virile” and old-school yet somehow totally contemporary green-woody fougère with an amazingly crisp sort of leafy-earthy feel of balsamic greenness and smoky woods. It covers the whole spectre of aromas you’d encounter in a forest, basically – from the thin fresh balsamic air, to the damp smell of woody roots. It may sound nothing special or new, but instead it manages to present such a conventional structure under a very different, and ultimately quite distinctive light. Probably the cypress accord is the key, as it’s green, minty and woody in a very peculiar way – a sort of bitter, watery, rooty, exceedingly realistic smell of crisp green woods. Now take that, surrounded by a half-macho, half-gentleman fougère-inspired aura of smoke-infused darker woods (slightly birch-y, too) and topped with an added dose of more rarefied citrusy greenness. Nothing really Italian actually, this smells more like some German forest to me, like in some Prussian area – it feels quite balsamic, uplifting, but at the same time somehow cold, dark, archaic. More “viking” than “macho”, so to speak. “Italy” shall mean probably more citrus, more herbs, and a more friendly, affable, laid-back mood, while Italian Cypress has some fascinating feel of dry, austere breezy darkness that definitely moves the inspiration way “more up-North”, in my opinion.

Anyway, inspirations aside this is a very well made scent, not overly creative but really impeccable. It smells just great: refined, quite natural, fascinatingly complex, subtly austere, it manages to do something I always love with fragrances – making you feel “home” with an apparently conventional structure (the early Eighties green fougère here) but yet refreshing and playing around with it a bit, just enough to smell distinctive and show some, say, “up-to-date” personality. Plus it also checks all the relevant performance marks – lasts well, projects well, no unpleasant surprises, very decent materials. Well done.

8/10

Tom Ford Black Orchid Eau De Toilette Revisits Its Own Modern Classicism (2015)

American fashion designer Tom Ford is launching a new iteration of his modern classic Black Orchid eau de parfum (2006), which now comes in Black Orchid eau de toilette concentration with a new aromatic twist counting on the power-emitting tuberose to make sure this edt is not lighter, but different....

"Black Orchid Eau de Toilette is a distinctly different encounter with a more open, immediate expression. The custom-grown Tom Ford black orchid instantly takes center stage, inviting you inside in a way never before experienced in the classic signature fragrance."

Black Orchid has an instantly recognizable olfactory signature, so pushing it to be even more direct is going to be interesting to experience. How American a virtue too!

The composition opens on top notes of Black Truffle, Ylang-Ylang, Bergamot and Black Currant leading to a heart of Black Orchid, Black Iris, Black Plum while the base features Lotuswood, Patchouli, Coconut, Cinnamon, Balsam, Incense, Vetiver, Sandalwood and Vanilla.

Known for his adherence to a bold, retro-made-modern aesthetic in perfumery, you can nearly always expect something that will make you feel like you came straight out of a movie classic when you wear a Tom Ford jus. Ford is also a film director, incidentally. In fact, if TMC is your kind of cable TV channel, chances are you're probably going to mesh with his perfumes.

TOM FORD FOR MEN BY TOM FORD (2007)

Nose: Yves Cassar

I’ve never been much of a fan of Tom Ford’s masculine offerings, as I find them either nice but overpriced, or fairly dull (Noir, for example). For some reasons I always never cared for this one, maybe unconsciously thinking, given the name, that it was a sort of epitome of all of that, and... bingo, this is instead the first one which works for me. Mostly because it’s finally something solid, with a fair price (well, sort of). Maybe a bit boring, surely too discreet for the needs of the average “bros” building pools to bath in their Private Blends, and however miles away from being ground-breaking: just solid and mature, unpretentious and versatile, with a remarkably decent quality and overall, extremely pleasant to wear. The composition smells simple and clear, and notes seem all built with really decent materials: the spiced, gingerish orange-citrus notes are sparkling, tangy and juicy; the floral-infused musky-ambery base smells compellingly warm, slightly creamy and slightly salty too, the whole woody-herbal accord is a bit aseptic and nondescript (I only get some faint, weakly mossy vetiver), but working fine within the composition, providing an office-safe “boisé” feel which will get some more credit on the drydown, and the suede-ish tobacco smells, well, like most other tobacco notes on the market - which means “nothing like real tobacco” for me, but nice anyway; smooth, sweet, “brownish” and affably, youthfully distinguished.

Like for some other reviewers, two fragrances came to my mind while wearing this the first time: Hugo Boss Baldessarini and to a much lesser extent, yet worthy a mention, a sort of spicier and watered-down version of L’Instant pour Homme by Guerlain. Maybe Carolina Herrera for Men too, just for the tobacco accord (an “orange-amber” flanker of that would be close to this Ford’s, I guess), and Kenzo pour Homme Boisée just for a similar citrus-scented light woody accord. Above all I’d mention Baldessarini though, and I would say Tom Ford for Men smells quite a bit better than that – more crisp, more appealing, definitely more quality too. So, anyway: a zesty, classy, politely self-confident fragrance with just the right hint of musky tackiness and a pleasant spicy-woody drydown with a warm whiff of amber. Surely a mild, maybe pedantic, kind of “generic” office-safe fragrance based on a really conventional and mainstream concept of “tart-spicy Oriental cologne” with pretty much the sole scope of making you smell nice in the most mannered, discreet and crowd-pleasing meaning possible... but hell, it does it impeccably good (sadly with a short persistence, but it does).

Gender Bender: Tom Ford Black Orchid EDP (2006)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

Hello and welcome to “Gender Bender”, an exploration of aroma, gender and scented freedom. Though by no means do I personally prescribe to fragrance having a gender, sociocultural stereotypes about masculinity and femininity often prevail at the fragrance counters and are viewed as important distinctions for many fragrance fans. Join me as I explore some of my favorite 20th century masterpieces of perfumery in my quest to challenge marketing rhetoric and address the question, “How does fragrance transcend gender?”

Summary: Designer Tom Ford's (Gucci, YSL) first solo venture into fragrance, which celebrates its 10th anniversary next year, Black Orchid EDP is both a disturbing and comforting blend of traditional floriental and vanillic gourmand notes that is decidedly unisex and utterly captivating. Though originally launched without gender ascribed, advertising and marketing often hinted at the scent being "for women". Today the bottle is as often found on men's fragrance counters as women's.

Try this if You Like: Drinking a Starbucks Caramel Macchiato; creamy, buttery, milky scents; aromas with an earthy, animalic, or sweaty edge; orientals with white floral accents such as gardenia or tuberose; sweet, resinous, ambery basenotes.

Reminds me of: Similar feel as Fendi Theorema with less of a focus on citrus and offering richer, more luxurious basenotes; Comptoir Sud Pacifique Lait Sucre/Matin Calin; Molto Missoni's ambery basenotes; Collection Extraordinaire Precious Oud Van Cleef & Arpels; Horseball's Orchid Version; the sweetness and creaminess of Dior Hypnotic Poison; Black Orchid's lower notes recall the resinous amber aroma of Ormonde Jayne Tolu.

Pros & Cons: A vanilla aroma with a moderate floral heart and rich, surprising nuances that are anything but average – black truffle (think mushroom) that the designer actually intended to come across as (cough, cough) sweaty crotch (!!!). Black Orchid EDP offers powerful longevity and sillage – I received immediate compliments from both men and women! I'll admit that I find the outer packaging a bit odd and in the opening 5 minutes, the ylang and truffle notes might be a little off-putting to some and especially stand out at the start before fading altogether. A slightly higher pricepoint also puts this one out of reach for casual purchases – it's a luxe product and likely not a great blind buy.

Reactions to this one are all over the place, likely one of the most divisive aromas since Mugler's Angel with some finding the scent unbearable and heavy and others reveling in the extraordinary richness of the overall aroma. This being said, if you hate foody scents, and vanilla in absolutely any form makes you gag, you're gonna have a problem with this one.

Notes: "Black truffle, ylang ylang, bergamot, black currant, black orchid, rich fruit accord, floral accord, lotus wood, patchouli, incense, vetiver, vanilla tears, balsam,sandalwood." TomFord.com

Designer's Description: "Tom Ford Black Orchid evokes the timeless luxury and worldly glamour reminiscent of classic fragrances from the most elegant fragrance houses. A luxurious and sensual fragrance, Tom Ford Black Orchid, with its rich, dark accords and alluring potion of black orchids and spice, is both modern and timeless." 2006 Press Release

Number of times tested: 100+ over 9 years.

Number of sprays applied for this review: 1 spray to the back of hand from a 2010 bottle gifted to me by a friend.

Fragrance Strength: Eau de Parfum.

Development: ( Linear / Average / Complex) Black Orchid is well-blended and practically linear but for the opening 30 minutes as glimmers of ylang, truffle, currant and vanilla cream vie for attention. Though this sounds surprisingly sweet and youthful, I find the scent to be quite mature and serious. As the scent relaxes on the skin, the richness of the beautiful basenotes (sweetbalsam and sandalwood, especially) becomes more evident, all resting on a creamy vanilla accord – not your typical vanilla, but as noted above, similar to the vanilla used in Comptoir Sud Pacifique fragrances, almost like a buttercream.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) Lasted about 8 hours on my skin and slightly longer in its final stages.

Sillage: (A little / Average / A Lot) A little goes a long way; use with caution! Black Orchid might not be great for close quarters. Could be a good one to spray in the air and walk through.

Where Can I Buy It? Retails at $115 USD for a 50ml Eau de Parfum spray at various department stores.

Note About the Packaging: Unusual. The outer box of striated, textured gold with simple black and gold label and lettering might suggest minimalist chic. But then the bottle, striated black glass, almost like a flask, with gold-plate label and vintage-style gold elastic cord cinched with a "TM" signature gold square suggests 1920's modernism. Not quite what I'd expect, but almost genderless and at once striking and surprising.

The Bottom Line: "Wow! Whoa! What the heck? Ahhhhhhh. Hmmm. Huh?" seemed to be my initial reaction when first testing this fascinating fragrance a decade ago. Legend has it that a black orchid was actually created specifically for Ford and this project, having never existed in nature before. I don't doubt it. By far one of the sexiest designer/directors (in my humble opinion) in the public eye and consistently the best dressed, it's not surprising that I should also be thrilled with this first of his signature fragrances.  

Without any idea what the scent would smell like, and without any knowledge of the notes used, I first tried this back in 2006 and after 5 minutes had to do my best to resist the temptation to drink it! I remember writing, "What's up with these coffee drink scents? Have designers secretly had access to my dreams recently? Is this the Starbuckian influence reaching far into our daily lives?" Yes, florals are noted in the list of notes along with bergamot, a fruit accord, and black currant, but where are they? The patchouli accent is almost imperceptible but for a spicy almost cinnamon-like edge, and I get zero vetiver. Sandalwood, cream, ylang, and sweet woody resins are what I most sense when sniffing myself.  And here's the best part – there's a little "dirty/kinky" in Black Orchid, a slightly yucky accord, and I'm guessing it's the earthy truffle. Wish it lasted slightly longer, as a little "yuck" can be a good thing…but I'm more than happy with where the scent goes instead. This is what I wanted Theorema for Men to be, Cartier Must for Men to be, and hoped Donna Karan Gold might be. 

As an aside, a story: About three years ago I had a perfume party at my house, the kind of soiree where everyone goes home with a decant of something. A now-retired colleague from the English department had exclaimed her passion for Black Orchid, “There’s just something in there that really grabs my attention.” I followed with the infamous story behind the scent’s creation – according to Ford himself, the truffle notes were meant to evoke a man’s "sweaty crotch" – and we all broke out in the kind of laughter that brings tears and stomach cramps. My colleague went home with a decant of what was newly dubbed “Sweaty Crotch” and we still laugh about it today when I simply ask her, “How’s your sweaty crotch?” This usually works to maximum effect in company unaware of the back-story.

Just yesterday I was at Nordstrom men's fragrance bay admiring the fact that there were glass jars of plastic fragrance sample vials available to customers to fill at their pleasure. And as I reached for the new Tom Ford Noir Extreme, which to me is the perfect counterpart to Black Orchid with the vanilla toned down and the woody resins turned up, I noted the presence of Black Orchid (though not Black Orchid Voile de Fleur) among the Grey Vetiver and Tom Ford for Men bottles. As I sniffed my way through, an older gentleman picked up the tester bottle of Black Orchid and doused himself in it. His female companion offered, "Mmmm, smells like the chocolate Dior one." Wow! I never considered the similarities among Dior Hommeand Black Orchid; I don't find the compositions all that similar but I suppose the overall effect isn't all that different, another example of the unisex, modern, gourmand oriental.

What have your experiences with Black Orchid been like? Many of the Tom Ford line are marketed without gender while yet others do in fact carry the "for men" designation; which other fragrances from Ford would you classify as gender benders? Tell us in a comment below!

Tom Ford Black Orchid Eau de Toilette

por: Sanja Pekic

Tom Ford apresentou sua primeira e também sua mais popular fragrância Black Orchid em 2006. Black Orchid Eau de Toilette, uma nova versão baseada no aroma da tuberosa, surge em Outubro de 2015. A nova versão é anunciada como distinta da fragrância Black Orchid e convida a experienciar o avanço sedutor numa nova luz com sua própria viagem olfativa.

As notas de topo de trufa preta e ylang-ylang são misturadas com a fresca bergamota e groselha. O coração do perfume é a fictícia "Orquídea Preta" de Tom Ford com tuberosa e acordes frutais. A composição se torna mais profunda com uma base oriental de madeira de lótus, patchouli, vetiver, sândalo, baunilha e incenso.

Notas de topo: bergamota, groselha, trufa, ylang-ylang Coração: orquídea preta, tuberosa, notas frutais Base: patchouli, sândalo, vetiver, madeira de lótus, baunilha, incenso

A fragrância está disponóvel em 30, 50 e 100 ml Eau de Toilette.
 

Tom Ford Black Orchid Eau de Toilette

by: Sanja Pekic

Tom Ford introduced his first and also his most popular fragranceBlack Orchid in 2006. Black Orchid Eau de Toilette, a new version based on the scent of tuberose, is coming out in October 2015. The new version is announced as a distinctly different encounter of the Black Orchid fragrance and it invites you to experience the seductive breakthrough in a new light with its own olfactive journey.

The top notes of black truffle and ylang-ylang are mixed with fresh bergamot and black currant. The heart of the perfume is Tom Ford's fictional "Black Orchid" with tuberose and fruity accords. The composition gets more profound with oriental base of lotus wood, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla and incense.

Top notes: bergamot, black currant, truffle, ylang-ylang Heart: black orchid, tuberose, fruity notes Base: patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, lotus wood, vanilla, incense

The fragrance is available as 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette.
 

Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot

by: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic

Tom Ford launches the new fragrance which belongs to the collection Private Blend presented as a unisex edition which blends expressive pepper-based notes with exotic floral notes and creamy woody shades.

VENETIAN BERGAMOT opens with green and tart aromas of bergamot which is surrounded with bitter and cold chords of black pepper and cheerful pink pepper, while ginger enhances sharpness and citrusy scent. The heart mixes warm and intoxicating shades of ylang-ylang combined with gardenia and magnolia. A woody blend of cedar and Californian bay leaf (Pepperwood / myrtle from Oregon / Umbellularia) provides a rougher character  to the floral aromas, while the finish is provided by warm aromas of sandalwood, tonka, amber and cashmeran.

TOM FORD PRIVATE BLEND VENETIAN BERGAMOT edition 2015 bergamot, black pepper, pink pepper, ginger ylang-ylang, magnolia, gardenia, cedar, pepperwood sandalwood, tonka, amber, cashmeran

Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot will be available as 50, 100 and 250 ml Eau de Parfum.

Mandarino di Amalfi de Tom Ford (2014)

 

Para quem ainda não sabe o termo "mandarino di amalfi" é utilizado para designar o aroma do limão verdadeiro, aquele com aroma forte e duradouro. A proposta da TF foi trazer a refrescancia para um dia de ensolarado, mesma a beira de uma piscina.
Sai com muito limão e hortelã, um toque a mais de especiarias que parece fazer uma boom olfativo no estilo " que refrescante ". Nesse ponto ele deveria evoluir para algo mais floral mas  o que acontece é evoluir para muito almíscar. Ládano  que lembra o aroma de própolis, um toque de erva doce(estragão)  e sálvia nodosa , levemente adocicada. Com o passar do tempo a fragrância ganha um toque de criatividade que pode ter levado a todo esse furor em torno da mesma. Limão, almíscar, toques ambarados e vetiver, como um dia ensolarado de outono em que as folhas caem sobre um parque onde você , na sombra de uma arvore toma limonada e descansa olhando a natureza junto a pessoa amada. Você se deita, e em uma respiração profunda sente  o aroma de limão, folhas e aquele adocicado que só a pele da pessoa que você ama tem. É confortável e fugaz

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Sahara Noir de Tom Ford (2013)

Essa premiada fragrância floral oriental é uma das mais vendidas da Tom Ford , uma fragrância muito elaborada,  levemente incensada e um tanto misteriosa. As notas de topo são Laranja Amarga, Açoro, Cipreste e Ládano as notas de coração são Jasmim egípcio, Rosa marroquina, Incenso, Papiro, Cera de Abelha e Canela as notas de fundo são Ládano, Benjoin, Baunilha, Cedro, Âmbar, Agarwood (Oud) e Bálsamo egípcio. Abre com aroma de mel, incenso,canela e laranja, algo extremamente diferente pois ele segue totalmente ambarado,com uma nota  verde insistente. Tem um toque floral leve  com benjoim e baunilha gritantes. O fundo é amadeirado e com oud que se confunde com toda  o estilo de loja de incensos e um persistente aroma de baunilha.

Tom Ford Fleur de Portofino

by: Sanja Pekic

Tom Ford launches the fourth fragrance of the Neroli Portofino collection in June 2015 (after the original Neroli Portofino from 2011, and Mandarino di Amalfi andCosta Azzurra editions from 2014), called Fleur de Portofino. The fragrance is an interpretation of white acacia trees in the Mediterranean. The composition focuses on acacia blossom, surrounded by citruses, based on acacia honey.



The top notes mix citruses and fresh flavors. There are Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, tangerine, bitter orange leaf, violet leaf and syringe. The heart is designed around white acacia flower and complemented by white magnolia, orange blossom, Moroccan rose and jasmine. The base is made of acacia honey with cistus absolute, vanilla absolute, tolu balm, civet and ambrette seed.

Top notes: bergamot, lemon, tangerine, bitter orange leaf, violet leaf, syringe Heart: acacia flower, magnolia, orange blossom, osmanthus, rose, jasmine Base: acacia honey, labdanum, vanilla, tolu, civet, ambrette

The scent comes in light blue version of the original turquoise bottle as 50 and 250 mlEau de Parfum.

Tom Ford London: London or Dubai?

by: Serguey Borisov

Tom Ford Private Blend collection is one of the most sought-after exclusive perfume projects. There are rumours that Tom Ford himself invents every perfume of this line of fragrances. The press releases do not contain the perfumers' names and you need to search more about them. The Private Blend collection has a limited distribution to be more exclusive, but sometimes they push the exclusivity to the limits. I mean the Private Blend fragrances released for the next Tom Ford boutique opening.

Do you remember Tom Ford Italian Cypress? Its Italian citrus fruits, aromatic herbs and woody cypress were designed to express the Tom Ford spirit at the opening of the five-story boutique on Milan's Via Verri in 2008. Tom Ford Lavender Palm was presented at the opening of Beverly Hills boutique—the local heat just called for the freshness of lavender, which grows so well in California. The very same story happened with Tom Ford London: the perfume was the olfactory signature of the Tom Ford boutique opening on Sloane Street in London in 2013. Want to test or buy these three perfumes? Welcome to the boutiques!

 

However, after some time—usually six or twelve months—Tom Ford exclusive perfumes appear in wider distribution. (It reminds me of Le Labo's marketing of limited city-exclusives.) Today, you can test and buy all three urban exclusives in Moscow, but for the article we will review the newest, the London perfume.

Tom Ford London. I expected it to be a strict lavender perfume, with a floral soapy heart of rose and geranium, and a woody drydown (rugged oakmoss and/or hazy amber). A fragrance for British gentlemen with a stiff upper lip—City brokers, noble Sirs or maybe Sherlock Holmes. Oh, how wrong I was!

It turns out that London by Tom Ford—judging by its smell—is a great and rich but almost Arabian city, where the long-waving sillage of spices, attars and oud drift from bright bazaars through every street. Really, when Tom Ford said that “our British customers are among the most discerning and stylish in the world,” was he referring to those that come from the Middle East to buy a business, to invest in Great Britain and do some shopping? Well, after oud became an intrinsic part of the Big Apple (for example, Bond No 9 New York Oud and New York Oud Pure Tola Oil), there is nothing to be surprised at. We can only take it as another manifestation of multiculturalism and tolerance—now people in a turbans, thawbs or abayas are no surprise for the city of London. And American Tom Ford is an alien in London too, like Sting was in New York. Long-awaited, but an alien.
 

London is the next step of Tom Ford's affair with a beautiful oriental aromamaterial. After hot oud-ambery Yves Saint Laurent M7 the world has seen more ouds by Tom Ford: Oud Wood, Tobacco Oud, and Oud Fleur. And it seems the affair was not over—the spicy and powdery, resinous and flushed perfume named London confirms that.
 

It won me over with the very first inhale. Like a kung-fu master of half-fantastic movies praising this kind of martial arts, he poked me in three places so precisely to make me weak and paralyze my willpower. It poked me in my love of tarry cold cardamom. In my affection for the powdery-spicy cumin with its leather and animal shade. And in the common human weakness for hot amber fragrances. After this triple poke I fell in front of the triple accord, ready to go limp after the oriental trail ... this is the sweaty beast in the beginning, these five minutes of brutal beauty that I try to recall afterwards all day, try to find traces of the beast in labdanum and oud, in the warm comfy woody basenotes. The beast justifies the creation of the next Oud in the Tom Ford Private Blend collection. Oud does not play the Oriental Star here, in London, but creates harmony, together with labdanum and woods, it works as a manager that makes a Team out of good players, gathering all together, making every one significant and everything on its place.

It's so harmonious, that I wonder why it was not launched before.

TOM FORD LONDON
Top notes: Black pepper, Saffron, Cardamom, Coriander, Cumin and Coffee;
Middle notes: Geranium, Jasmine, Incense and Labdanum;
Base notes: Agarwood (oud), Musk, Birch, Cedar and Amyris.

P.S. To close, one anecdote about an unknown Tom Ford exclusive fragrance. In October 2014 in Moscow, I was asked when the newest perfume by Tom Ford, namely Milan, would be launched in Russia. Totally unaware of it, I turned to the Tom Ford office in Russia. The PR person in charge shrugged her shoulders and made a request to the headquarters, but they had no idea at all. My quick search of the web brought me nothing but two references to the Ukrainian forum where some woman from Kiev offered to split some 200 ml of “Tom Ford Spesial Edition Milan” [sic!] fragrance in October 2013. This totally unknown exclusive fragrance—“Tom Ford made it exclusively for the Milan boutique launch party”—was decanted and split amongst Ukrainian perfumistas in just one day!

Few doubts that the decants which “smell not like Tom Ford” had received the answer that “it`s all right with Tom Ford perfume, it's just a problem with some noses.” And in January 2014, the "never launched version of the Tom Ford perfume” was split again, this time an additional 300 ml. Judging by the reviews of happy owners, under the name of Tom Ford Milan could have been sold some Tom Ford Italian Cypress, which was created for the Milan boutique in 2008. In the worst case scenario, it could also have been any perfume or mixture from any producer.

P.P.S. No, I have not tried it. Don't even go there.