Bargain Fragrances: Cabotine by Grès (1990)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less.  Leave a comment below for your chance to win a sample of Cabotine, shipped anywhere in the world, FREE!

Summary: A complex, bold and memorable fruity-floral with spicy undertones (ginger!), Cabotine was a surprising hit for the house of Grès that has both endured the test of time while inspiring an entire series of yearly flankers.

Perfumer: Jean-Claude Delville

Try this if you like: One really must love complex, even sharp (ginger, coriander and aldehydes) spring florals (hyacinth!) to appreciate Cabotine. That being said, the aroma is also quite sweet thanks to a collection of fruit (cassis, plum and peach) in the lower notes. There is nothing particularly fresh or tender about Cabotine but rather it feels very classic, very vintage and incredibly bold.

Reminds me of: Many reviewers immediately associate Cabotine with Dior's classicTendre Poison and Lomani Si Fleuri while I always recall the body of YSL Paris but with the rose focus replaced with ginger lily and hyacinth. 

Pros & Cons: Incredibly affordable and very easy to find, Cabotine should be readily available online or in a shop near you. One of my ideal springtime fragrances, Cabotine offers the wispy, airy hyacinth but in a richer, more opulent setting that immediately recalls Dior's Tendre Poison which was launched 4 years after Cabotine. One Fragrantica reviewer noted, "I bought this because my favourite ever perfume, Tendre Poison, had been discontinued.... Cabotine does smell extremely similar to TP, but as others have said, if you do try this perfume be prepared for the extremely heady opening notes. They knock you for six. I still like the scent as a dupe, although it is definitely less subtle, at least in the beginning. The hyacinth is especially strong; it comes through and stays for a good, long while."

Though a sister of leather-chypre Cabochard, it should be noted the two really have nothing in common. Cabotine is a fruity floral but with the fruity notes merely playing a supporting role and as such, this has little to do with the more modern fruity aromas such as the yearly Escada offerings. Another reviewer noted, "A nice classic floral, a little sweet but not in the sugary sense that is so characteristic of today's perfumes. A perfume with a lot of character."

Ginger

Ginger plays a surprising role in Cabotine and some reviewers have noted that the aroma recalls ginger ale, "Cabotine turned ginger into heaven for me. Only now do I remember, oh. yeah. I love Ginger Ale! That's a rough comparison but I was only thinking bitter. All the floral really turns this Ginger into a beauty on me. Because, I DO get the ginger." Another reviewer noted, "The ginger note is absolutely genius though I wish it stuck around longer. It's nothing short of uplifting. This is the most refreshing perfume I've ever experienced, like a cold bottle of water."

Tuberose

Tuberose also plays a large role here but this is not the creamy, heady tuberose of Fracas or Blonde but rather the light and airy tuberose of Diptyque Do Son. Ylang is also very present throughout the aroma and lends its sharp, spicy aura to Cabotine. However, some reviewers have found these notes to be overbearing, too mature, and heavy: "I can identify with both the positive and negative reviews of Cabotine. Today, I decided to donate my bottle to charity but keep the fragrance ranked as a 'like' in my account. I can appreciate it on some level, so I wouldn't say I dislike it, but I can't imagine myself wearing it much. It is too heavy, particularly in that dry, sandy way in which tuberose and ylang-ylang often present. I LOVE hyacinth, but unfortunately, I don't detect it as much as others seem to detect it here." Another reviewer noted, "I am in my early 30s and this was MUCH too mature smelling for me. To me, it was a very sharp powdery grandma floral...I like other perfumes people think are "grandmaish," like Stella by Stella McCartney...but this was tooo much for me. Headache central, ultra sharp, dated. So sad! The bottle is adorable though."

Hyacinths

Notes: "A catchy start for a playful fragrance: mandarin and ginger play a spicy, energizing part whereas ylang-ylang unveils a more seductive, mature facet. The heart note is wildly romantic and exudes Cabotine’s yearning for freedom: wild hyacinth mingles with mysterious tuberose while ginger lily unfolds its sun-drenched, sensuous petals. After a few hours, the wild floral notes get tamed and melt into a skin-embracing accord of patchouli, sandalwood and musks." Parfumsgres.com

Designer’s Description: "'Je suis comme je suis!' ('I am what I am!'), that’s Cabotine’s motto and the visual, depicting a playful young woman, says it all. Cabotine just wants to have fun! Since its launch in 1990, CABOTINE has become a reference among the perfumes for young ladies. CABOTINE originally means actress… a woman with multiple facets. What about her favourite part? Well, she likes to play all kinds of parts, from the elegant lady to the extravagant teen."Parfumsgres.com

 

Madame Grès (from ParfumsGres.com)

 

Number of times tested: 100+ times over the last 25 years.

Number of sprays applied for this review: 1 spray to the back of my hand from a 100ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2016).

Fragrance strength: Eau de Toilette (Cabotine is also available as an EDP)

Ginger Lily

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): The development of the EDT version of Cabotine is somewhere between average and complex. Though the fragrance is rather straightforward in its presentation of all the key notes, Cabotine seems to unfold over time with a warm melange of basenotes almost invisible until the 5th and 6th hours.

Cabotine opens with a burst of citrus and aldehydes and its floral bouquet is immediately present. The mandarin of the opening sticks around for quite some time and creates an almost juicy effect throughout the development. The aldehydes add an airy lift the florals but by no means is this a typically aldehydic aroma (like White Linen or No. 5). The coriander and ginger also add a bright and perceivable punch to the opening florals which are the true star here and though orange blossom, freesia and jasmine are present, it is truly the hyacinth, ginger lily and tuberose that take center stage.

Behind the florals are a complex blend of supporting aromas such as a recognizable plum and peach accord.

Much later in the development, Cabotine's sweet petals begin to relax and warm, woody cedar and sandalwood peek out complimented by a green patchouli and subtle musks.

Though I don't find the fragrance particularly green, or at least not in the crushed leaves, fresh cut grass manner, it certainly sparkles like a cut emerald.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) With only two sprays, Cabotine lasted well beyond 12 hours. Amazing! I wonder what the EDP is like by comparison? It must last an entire week, lol.

Ylang ylang

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) There is noting subtle about Cabotine and I love being able to smell this on myself, hours after initial application. I would caution those working in close spaces with others to use Cabotine sparingly.

Note about the packaging: It was the bottle that first attracted me to Cabotine; that stunning, sculpted, emerald green cap that looks like a bouquet of blossoms designed by Lalique or Daum is quite striking. The EDT and EDP share the same design, an oval, transparent glass bottle with the green floral cap while the pure perfume bottle is a rounded square with a slightly different sculpted green top (see below). The bottles are housed in a white paper box with a relief of blossoms dotted in greens and yellows.

Where can I buy it? A 30ml EDT spray is as low as $10 USD at discount sites.

Illustrations of a Grès gown and the Cabotine pure perfume bottle from ParfumsGres.com

The Bottom Line: I can vividly remember the green, yellow and white launch of Cabotine back in 1990 in stores like Saks Fifth Avenue at the Boca Town Centre Mall. The bottle was a stunning, almost art nouveau alternative to the more austere offerings of the time such as Jil Sander No 4 or Guess. Bold new approaches to romantic, classic florals were trending and fragrances like New West Skinscent for Her, Ralph Lauren Safari and Lancôme Trésor were new to the counters. I'm not sure that Cabotine was as large a success as its competitors but it marked an exciting and long-awaited return to fragrance for the House of Grès who hadn't launched a fragrance since 1975's Qui Pro Quo by Robert Gonnon. Though I almost certainly had a sample of Cabotine, I really didn't become familiar with it until I started seeing it in discount stores like TJ Maxx and Marshall's in the mid-90s. I know I owned a bottle at one time but as I had been deeply into sweet gourmands or fresh aquatics during that decade, Cabotine never sparked my interest. Fast forward to a sultry, humid summer in 2005 when while sitting on a train from Kyoto to Osaka I suddenly smelled Cabotine. I was immediately transported back 15 years in time to that colorful 1990 launch. But such a bold and spicy aroma here in Japan? Really? I sniffed the air trying to seek out the source and upon looking to my left saw that a young woman in her twenties was applying Cabotine body lotion. Wow. "Ii kaori desune!?" I asserted, "it smells good doesn't it?" She looked at me and nodded hesitantly, surely thinking either I was some kind of foreign creep or that perhaps she had bothered others with her aroma. I shouldn't have said anything. But I was intrigued. Perhaps Cabotine deserved another chance? And even more puzzling was that as soon as I smelled it on the train that day, I became aware of it at perfume stores all over Osaka. Surely Cabotine was too loud of a fragrance to be popular in Japan where subtlety reigned? But it wasn't until this past winter when, newly intrigued by hyacinth aromas after putting my nose to blossoms throughout the previous spring, I finally acquired my second bottle of Cabotine for shockingly little money. I reasoned that I had nothing to lose and that $10 was a reasonable price to sample a perfume legend. It was love at first sniff and compared to Cabochard, which arrived the same day as Cabotine, completely easy, bright and spring-like. The aroma filled the kitchen where I sprayed it causing a family member to suddenly appear and declare interest. I couldn't say no and figured that I could always get another bottle and so gifted Cabotine to my mom. However, after one week of wearing it -  a week where each morning I would smell it lingering in the air after she applied it and second guess my gifting - Mom declared it not her kind of scent; there was something masculine and spicy about it that she found offputting. Interesting. So back to me it went and I was pretty excited. With spring approaching, last night seemed like perfect timing to wear Cabotine and I was amazed to wake up this morning still smelling it. What can I say? It smells THAT good and has incredible longevity. Though not as green as say Guy Laroche Fidji, another hyacinth favorite, Cabotine is a complete pleasure to wear.  Now that I've rediscovered it, I've become intrigued with all of the yearly flankers that keep appearing. There are so many to choose from at completely affordable prices; where does one begin? I think my new love for Cabotine may have just opened Pandora's box!

I'd love to read your thoughts about Cabotine or the house of Grès! 
What have your experiences been like?

Leave a comment below by 4/1/16 for your chance to win a sample of Cabotine, shipped anywhere in the world, FREE! The winner will be notified by Fragrantica email.

Bargain Fragrances: Navy by Cover Girl/Dana (1990)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less.  Leave a comment below for your chance to win a sample of Navy, shipped anywhere in the world, FREE!

Summary: A bold, floral oriental, Navy by Dana (originally from Cover Girl) is a sure bet for those who love vanilla, amber and orange blossom at less than $20 USD.

Perfumer: NA

Try this if you like: Powdery, vanilla aromas; the sweetness of orange blossom or ylang; a hint of animalic skank; a touch of peach; fragrances that linger subtly.

Reminds me of: Navy undoubtedly reminds me of the original Boucheron pour Femme and I don't think Cover Girl was shy about this similarity. Originally launched in 1989, Boucheron was housed in a rounded glass and gold botle with cobalt blue accents. A year later, Cover Girl launched Navy in a rounded glass and gold bottle with cobalt blue accents. And compare the list of notes for each - the compositions are nearly identical! The main difference? Navy is nowadays a much subtler and less complex affair.

Other fragrances I'm reminded of are Joop! Femme, Gabriela Sabatini, and Ungaro(original). To some extent, the fragrance calls to mind scents like Bijan and Cher Uninhibited in the drydown stages.

Pros & Cons: Navy is likely not quite the beast it once was when launched 26 years ago. However, as far as reformulations go, Navy has survived surprisingly well and still offers good longevity and sillage. Though now only available as a cologne, it was once also available as a "perfume" during its initial years with Cover Girl.

Many will find the fragrance a bit dated and too "mature" for their tastes as the aroma is neither fruity nor gourmand and the florals are on the bold and more classic side. However, for some this will surely be a welcome bonus. I personally find it a more subtle alternative to my big yellow florals like Joop and Boucheron and a bit more powdery overall.

The packaging today is rather simple, no beauty here to speak of; but wow, that price!

Notes: Dana currently lists "Orange Blossom, Neroli, Gardenia, Jasmine, Heliotrope, Cinnamon, Amber, Musk."

Designer’s Description: "You always feel perfect in Navy - The clean, classic fragrance"; "Unmistakably classic style that is irresistible and timeless. Experience its unique allure. Casual, yet elegant…Unforgettable. This full-bodied floral bouquet is enveloped by sweet spices, amber and creamy musk."

 

Number of times tested: 10 times over the last 1 month.

Number of sprays applied for this review: 2 sprays to the back of my hand from a 30ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2015).

Fragrance strength: Cologne

"You always feel perfect in Navy. The clean, classic fragrance"

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Navy opens with sparkling citrus notes and what seems to be a touch fo aldehydes. Immediately behind these notes is the floral body of the scent: orange blossom and ylang are most prominent to me with the jasmine and gardenia playing supporting roles. Powdery heliotrope, vanilla and amber anchor the fragrance and keep it perceivable and familiar. There is a beguiling musk that appears right from the start and then reappears again in the final stages, but it is rather tame when compared to the animalics in Joop, for example. This Navy never ventures into unchartered waters; the overall effect is instantly familiar.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) With only two sprays, Navy lasted well beyond 7 hours albeit very subtly after the 3rd hour.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Navy is rather strong when first applied and throughout its first hour, but it acts like a typical cologne therafter. This one might be a little bold for the office or close quarters upon initial application but quickly relaxes.

Note about the packaging: Navy is housed in the exact same botle as when it launched with a navy blue plastic top and clear glass bottle bottom. Older versions have the top plastic part affixed to the bottle with a built in sprayer while the newer version allows the blue cap to be fully removed. The perfume version offered a gold affixed cap with blue spray piece or fully gold body. The fragrance is currently packaged in a simple blue, white and silver box (see below) while older versions feature navy and white stripes with a gold name plate at center (see top). Other versions do pop up now and again such as a rectangular cobalt blue glass 1 oz atomizer but I'm not sure of their age.

Where can I buy it? A 30ml Cologne spray is as low as $10 USD at discount sites.

The Bottom Line: Navy launched while I was in high school and I remember seeing the little gold and blue bottle pop out of a purse or backpack now and then. I don't remember the aroma though, at least not in the same way I can remember scents like Exclamation, Liz Claiborne or YSL Paris. Having had success with Navy for Men and reading the list of notes for the women's version, I figured it might be similar to Boucheron. So, I took the risk for $10 USD and ended up with exactly what I had hoped for: a sweet oriental with strong orange blossom and amber. I absolutely love it and reach for it  often. I previously reviewed the men's version HERE and it has absolutely nothing to do with the women's version. It's interesting how we associate aromas and colors and this little gem has me wondering what the color "navy blue" smells like to me? Navy, the aroma, is a golden orange because of the associations I have with ylang, orange blossom and the golden vanilla-amber that anchors its composition. My favorite aspect of Navy is the long, sweet drydown with musky overtones and just a hint of warm cinnamon. When the florals have fully relaxed, those basenotes are a nice surprise and very comforting. Considering what I've tried from Dana thus far, I think Navy is the hands down winner.

I'd love to read your thoughts about Navy! What have your experiences been like? What kinds of aromas smell like "navy blue" to you?

Leave a comment below for your chance to win a sample of Navy,
shipped anywhere in the world, FREE!

Bargain Fragrances: Murray & Lanman's Florida Water (1808)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less.  Leave a comment below for your chance to win a 5ml decant of Florida Water, shipped anywhere in the world, FREE!

Summary: Created over 200 years ago, and a staple toiletry of North American's throughout the 19th century, Murray & Lanman's Florida Water is still widely available; generally under $5 USD for at least two ounces; and with its classic blend of citrus and floral notes, is a perfect, unisex choice for a cooling, body splash.

Perfumer: Unknown

Try this if you like: Classic eau de colognes; 4711; orange blossom or neroli focused fragrances; clove; vintage/antique aromas; light body splashes; traditional hotel bath soaps.

Reminds me of: 4711, Eau de Guerlain, Roger & Gallet Farina Extra Vieille.

Pros & Cons: First of all, let's get right to the point that this is not really a perfume but a scented water or a body splash and as such there is really no longevity or sillage here, at least not in the way that we typically think of fragrances nowadays in 2015.

What makes Florida Water so special is its place in American cosmetics history. It even has a Chinese relative, Two Girls Florida Water from 1898 that is quite similar to Murray & Lanman's classic. To think that people have been regularly using Florida Water since 1808 is rather intriguing. Moreover, it offers up a bracing, cooling aroma that many will find immediately familiar and comforting.

Though classic advertisments suggest the product as a multi-purpose floral extract, it is indeed an inexpensively made, alcohol-based aroma that is by no means floral in the way we currently think of floral perfumes. The focus here is all orange/neroli/orange blossom.

The scent has also garnered legendary status over the years thanks to its use by a number of famous people. In fact, American comedienne Lucille Ball's (I Love Lucy) last words were "My Florida Water."

Notes: Though the exact notes are not publicly known, similar forumlas suggest the following- Sweet orange, bergamot, lavender, cloves, cinnamon, and possibly lemon, neroli petitgrain, ylang, rose, jasmine and/or musk.

Designer’s Description:

"For more than a century MURRAY & LANMAN'S FLORIDA WATER has been famous throughout the world - not for one purpose alone, but for a score of everyday needs. Moderately priced itself, MURRAY & LANMAN'S FLORIDA WATER saves you the cost of many more expensive preparations. Read the suggestions below...and note how useful and economical MURRAY & LANMAN'S FLORIDA WATER can be.

Added to the Bath or wash-basin, Murray & Lanman's Florida Water is delightfully refreshing and leaves the skin delicately fragrant.

After the Shower it provides an exhilarating rubdown, giving a delightful glow to the skin, toning muscles and nerves.

Before Shaving, Murray & Lanman's Florida Water softens the toughest beard and prepares the skin for a smooth, luxurious shave.

After Shaving, it contracts the pores, Its mildly astringent action soothes and heals skin abrasions caused by shaving.

In Hot Weather, a feeling of agreeable coolness is quickly induced by applying Murray & Lanman's Florida Water to the brow. Use as directed in bath and after shave.

As a Perfume, there is no more delightful scent than Murray & Lanman's Florida Water. Unobtrusive and remindful of a flower-garden, it can be used in an atomizer, on the handkerchief, or on the person.

After Exercise, a rubdown with Murray & Lanman's Florida Water produces a warm tingling glow - delightful and invigorating - zestful to the muscles, restful to the nerves.

To the Hair a sprinkling of Murray & Lanman's Florida Water gives an enchanting fragrance appropriate to the party or dance. It soothes itching scalp.

For Boudoir Daintiness, a few drops sprinkled in your lingerie drawer, handkerchief-box and clothes closets is lovely and lasting.

To Freshen Rooms that have been newly dusted, to overcome smoke-stuffiness, kitchen odors and the smell of new paint, sweeten the air with a sprinkling of Murray & Lanman's Florida Water."

- Lanman-and-Kemp.com

Number of times tested: 100+ times over the last 10 years.

Number of sprays applied for this review: 3 generous splashes to the back of my hand and arm from a 60ml splash bottle I purchased in 2015.

Fragrance strength: Cologne

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Florida water opens as a typical eau de cologne but with an almost medicinal edge likely due to cinnamon and/or clove notes. There's a menthol/minty vibe that doesn't last more than 30 minutes but the overall effect is indeed cooling. As the scent relaxes, a slightly floral tinge emanates from the skin most notably that of lavender and some form of orange blossom or neroli.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) Though the scent basically fades within an hour, I was rather surprised to find after coming indoors from warm, rainy weather that the aroma in fact lingered for another few hours as a skinscent, similar to the effect of a strongly scented bar soap or shower gel.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) This is a personal scent that no one else will likely notice.

Note about the packaging: Florida Water is available in a range of sizes from as little as 2 ozs all the way up to over 16 oz bottles. The current bottle is plastic and transparent and a replica of the original from 1808 with the same label that graced the product in the 19th century. The product is a splash.

Where can I buy it? A 2 oz Cologne splash can be found for as little as $3 USD.

Wikipedia offers: "Florida Water is an American version of Eau de Cologne, or Cologne Water. It has the same citrus basis as Cologne Water, but shifts the emphasis to sweet orange (rather than the lemon and neroli of the original Cologne Water), and adds spicy notes including lavender and clove. The name refers to the fabled Fountain of Youth, which was said to be located in Florida, as well as the "flowery" nature of the scent. According to the current trademark holders, Lanman & Kemp Barclay, Florida Water was introduced by the New York City perfumer (and founder of the original company) Robert I. Murray, in 1808. In 1835 Murray was joined by David Trumbull Lanman and the firm became Murray & Lanman, then David T. Lanman and Co., and in 1861 became Lanman & Kemp. The company states that their product, now sold under the Murray & Lanman brand, still uses the original 1808 formula, and that the current label is also a slightly modified version of the 1808 original. Florida Water was regarded a unisex cologne, suitable for men and women alike. Victorian etiquette manuals warned young ladies against the "offensive" impression made by a strong perfume, but Florida Water and Eau de Cologne were recommended as appropriate for all, along with sachets for scenting the linen and fresh flowers in the corsage. Large quantities were also used by barbershops as cologne and aftershave. In the 1880s and 1890s Murray & Lanman Florida Water was advertised as "The Richest of all Perfumes" and "The most Popular Perfume in the World". Like other colognes of the era, Florida Water was valued for its refreshing and tonic nature as well as its scent, and could be used as a skin toner or as what we would now call a "body splash". It was also used as a toilet water (eau de toilette), by adding it to the bath or wash-water. Many baseball teams (particularly it seems in the South) use Florida Water as a refresher during the hot summer baseball months by filling a small lunch sized ice chest with water and ice and a few caps of Florida Water. They then soak rags in the tonic and wipe their pulse points and necks with the soaked rags, providing a very cooling effect to the skin and body." Luckymojo.com adds, "Both Florida Water and Kananga Water are widely used in rituals of home protection and spiritual cleaning, to scent bowls of water set out for the spirits of the dead, as a basis for making an ink-dyed scrying water, and for other ritual and cosmetic purposes among people of African-diaspora descent in the United States and the Caribbean."

The Bottom Line: When I was a child and my grandmother lived with my family, there was always a huge bottle of lemon-scented Jean Naté body splash in my bathroom shower. I'll be honest, I loved the stuff and I think it might have been my very first experience with fragrance. My problem with Jean Naté is that it disappeared so quickly and I soon relaized that this wasn't so much a perfume, but a scented water; over time I began to notice many others available from companies like Crusellas, Daffi, Violetas Francesas, Lancry, Augustin Reyes, Pinaud, etc that were used from barbershops to babys' baths.

And though I was born and raised in Florida, it's funny that I never experienced Florida Water until I was in, of all places, Hong Kong where I purchased a large bottle of Two Girls Florida Water simply because its name intrigued me. Curious about it, I soon discovered its origin as inspired by Murray and Lanman's product and a few years later while in a supermarket in south Florida, I came across shelves of scented waters and bought a few to experiment with. M&L's Florida Water and Crusellas' Sandalo were the standouts.

It makes perfect sense that in a state known for its orange groves, a water inspired by the land should be scented with orange blossom. And essentially, that's what traditional eau de colognes are: Citrus and orange blossom focused compositions. I can remember riding horses at ranches buffered by miles and miles of Florida orange groves; while meandering down sandy paths, the sweet blossoms would fill the sultry, humid air with their scent. Florida Water is pure nostalgia, transporting me immediately back to my Florida youth.

Nowadays, I actually use Florida Water not as a personal fragrance but as an aftershave or cooling astringent during warmer weather. More than a few times I have kept a bottle in my refrigerator, causing a visiting friend to wonder if it was something to add to a cocktail.  Fortunately, no one ever went so far as to drink it, LOL.

Have you ever been curious about Florida Water? Do you use anything similar? Tell us below for your chance to win a 5ml decant of Murray and Lanman's Florida Water, shipped anywhere in the world, free!