Eau Parfumée au Thé Vertis an unexpected modern classic. It wasn’t even meant to be displayed outside the Bulgari boutiques, where its role was to be an elegant extra next to the house’s jewelry collection. Yet such was its allure and originality that it became one of the perfume trendsetters. And it made Bulgari into a perfume house of note. I tell the story of Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert in my newest FT column, Tempting Tea-Inspired Perfumes. But first I take you on my honeymoon to Kerala.
Munnar, a hill station in India’s southwestern state of Kerala, is one of the country’s largest tea producers. Ensconced in the Western Ghats mountain range, the town is surrounded by plantations that cascade down the hills and hide in misty ravines. I was in Munnar for my honeymoon, and my recollections of long, languorous walks around the tea gardens, the tolling church bells and the opulence of garlands at the Sri Subramanya Temple are laced with the scent of tea leaves. Crushed in my fingers, they smelled green and tannic; when carried by the morning breeze, the aroma resembled violets and driftwood. To continue, please click here.
Researching the article made me realize how many excellent and distinctive perfumes feature the tea accord. Next week I will share a selection of favorites to complement my choices in the article above.
I always find that jewellery brands take a completely different approach to perfumery in comparison to their fashion contemporaries. The fashion approach to perfume is very much about embodying the spirit and aesthetic of a designer, turning it into something more accessible and wearable than the brand’s couture, whilst the jeweller approach is all about showcasing the sheer beauty of the materials. Jewellery houses want the materials to speak for themselves, using an endless quest for perfection to lead to euphoric results.
The house of Bvlgari embodies this approach more so than any other jeweller. They have turned the note of tea into a spectrum of sapphire shades, boasting reds, whites, greens and blacks a plenty, whilst also shaping their fragrances fastidiously, in the same way they would cut a gem stone. Bvlgari favours quality and craftsmanship over fads and gimmicks, always coming back to the most important thing there is to make their fragrances quietly stand out from the crowd: the materials.
Bvlgari has just presented their ‘Splendida Collection’, a collection that pays tribute to the ‘Bvlgari Divas’ – three classic fragrances that have been revitalised by perfumer Sophia Labbe and rehoused within this special series. ‘Splendida’ is Italian for splendour and magnificence, two things that are not in short supply within this collection. These three Eau de Parfums present classic Italian glamour crafted with the signature finesse that one expect from the house of Bvlgari. They are Jasmin Noir (a reinterpreted version of the original), Rose Rose (a new version of Rose Essentielle) and Iris d’Or (a new version of Bvlgari Pour femme). Three classics, three icons and three beautiful fragrances.
Splendida Jasmin Noir
The Notes
Top: Gardenia and Green Sap
Heart: Jasmin Sambic Absolute and Satiny Almond
Base: Heart of Patchouli and Cashmeran Woods
How Does it Smell?
A floral, but not as we know it.
Splendida Jasmin Noir is an ode to white flowers dipped in jet black paint. It calls the bluff on any floral that dares to call itself ‘noir’ and whilst it is very dark indeed, it’s not without a touch of light too. Jasmine may be the eponymous material here but it’s not the star – that title is held by the gardenia, a pungent white flower that has an odour profile that includes blue cheese and mushrooms. In Splendida Jasmin Noir the gardenia brings a nutty, truffle tone that invites a feeling of richness. It clashes its heady, creamy white floral tones with the sharpness of patchouli to create something beyond glamorous – a perfectly cut black sapphire.
Splendida Rose Rose
The Notes
Top: White Mulberry and Mandarin Essence
Heart: Damascena Rose Absolute and Damascena Rose Essence
Base: Sandalwood Essence and Musks
How Does it Smell?
So good they named it twice.
There are two types of scented rose used in perfumery; damascena and centifolia. The centifolia rose has more of a citrus character, presenting a lighter more bubbly take on rose, whilst the damascena rose is jammier and more fruity, boasting accents of lychee and blackcurrant. It’s the fruity damascena rose that takes the spotlight in Splendida Rose Rose and what a beautiful starlet it is. This is a sparkling and transparent rose in the lightest shade of blush pink. It’s fruity in a delicate way, peppering its portrait of pink roses on the bushes with inflections of mandarin and blackcurrant over a soft breeze of musk. Splendida Rose Rose is drinkable and bright with a texture that is satiny smooth.
Splendida Iris d’Or
The Notes
Top: Violet Leaf Absolute and Heliotrope
Heart: Orris Absolute and Mimosa Absolute
Base: Tonka Bean Absolute, Heart of Vetiver and Sandalwood Essence
How Does it Smell?
All that glitters is iris and gold.
Iris (or orris) is the most expensive and luxurious ingredient in the perfumer’s palette. It’s a material that provides a rich, powdery texture and the scent of cool, grey earth. For Splendida Iris d’Or, Bvlgari has paired this magnificent material with two key notes that mirror and extend it; mimosa and violet. Iris naturally contains irones, which are also found within violets, linking these two materials together via sweetness. Mimosa accentuates the powder character but also adds soft hints of honey and pollen, warming the cool nature of iris and leading it away from aloofness in the shadows and into the sunshine. Altogether this makes for an incredibly luminous take on iris, that glitters like pure gold.
Bulgari has introduced a new flanker to Aqua pour Homme, Aqua pour Homme Toniq and Aqua pour Homme Marine called Aqua pour Homme Atlantique, a tonic aromatic scent meant to capture the spirit of the Atlantic ocean as well as that of adventure and sportsmanship...
Master perfumer Jacques Cavallier created the composition using a dual architecture of two main accords baptized "Sea Amber Accord" and "Ocean Energy Accord."
He explained,
"The fusion of an extremely potent aqueous note accentuates the natural qualities of fruit with aquatic notes that add dynamic underwater energy."
The eau de toilette opens on top notes of bergamot, lemon, aquatic notes with a heart of marine amber and a base of patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, and benzoin.
Read more at http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2017/04/bulgari-aqua-atlantique.html#6bAfIZYMfJrkL50l.99
A repetição continua sendo um característica da perfumaria mundial. Parece que os perfumistas ficaram tão comerciais que estão apresentando criações idênticas com apenas com notas e nomes diferentes. No geral tudo é muito parecido.
Não!Essa não é mais uma versão de La vie este est Belle, mas bem que poderia ser! A fragrância é uma figurinha repetida que vai dar certo pois realmente é comercial e gostoso. A "deusa do ouro" vem contornada por uma das melhores rosas dos últimos tempos. Claro que o adocicado frutado remete a uma versão branda do Lancome mas as semelhanças se restringem a isso. Rosas frescas e maravilhosa contrastando com um aroma suave, com toques de madeira e fragrância balsâmica. Esse floral balsâmico amadeirado com uma fase que passa pelo jasmim de forma discreta, segue por toda a composição onde , inusitadamente ganha um acorde suave, fresco, e com toques ocasionais de cítrico canforado, e transforma as notas de fundo em uma deliciosa mistura de floral amadeirado, refrescante e almiscarado. Mas sabe aquela sensação de que você já conhece esse perfume? Não ligue se isso acontecer com você pois ele tem essa característica. No geral a fragrância é deliciosa e encantadora porém continua com aquele defeitinho: a projeção! Quanto a longevidade ele esta bem melhor. Uma ótima fragrância.Romântica, feminina e até sensual dentro dos seus limites. Tem tudo para emplacar.
After the great success of Goldea, Bvlgari launches its successor Rose Goldea in July 2016. In Goldea, "goddess of gold", jewelry house Bulgari focused on theintoxicating sweetness of exotic ylang-ylang flowers mingling with elegant white flowers of jasmine and neroli, while the warmth comes from Goldea's creamy shadesof musk. Bvlgari descibes goldea as: "An homage to gold and femininity inspired bythe Goddess of gold, and the beauty of the Sun."
Rose Goldea The Essence of The Jeweler brings a new fragrant story wrapped in a scented mantle of roses. Rose Goldea is feminine and seductive, but its beauty is reflected in the softness of rose petals. Alberto Morillas signed this femininecomposition focused on the tantalizing scent of pomegranate combined with aromas of rose and jasmine. Morillas is increasingly using pomegranate as a key note infragrances such as Omnia Coral, also from the house of Bvlgari, a fragrance where the red fruit is blended with feminine water lotus flowers and hibiscus.
Pomegranate opens Rose Goldea at the top of the composition. As the fragrancedevelops, the emphasis is on the Damascus rose absolute and jasmine grandiflorum,supported by musk, creamy sandalwood and olibanum. The smell is very expressive,with a distinctive oriental aroma.
Rose Goldea is available in distinctive bottles of 50ml Eau de Parfum at the price of81.90EUR and 90 ml Eau de Parfum at the price of 114EUR. The bottle and outer carton for Rose Goldea are a feminine pink hue while the details on the neck of the bottle and the cap are the color of pink gold.
No final de Abril de 2016, BVLGARI lança o novo flanker Bvlgari Man Black Cologne, "o cheiro de água ardente" do perfumista Albert Morillas. A nova composição joga cuidadosamente com contrastes e tem uma invulgar combinação de intenso frescor com uma sensualidade oriental. A fragrância é masculina, sofisticada e fresca.
Ao contrário de seu antecedente Bvlgari Man in Black de 2014 que nas notas de topo oferece um intoxicante rum, tabaco e especiarias, BVLGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE mistura rum com o frescor da verdura e os luminosos citrinos. A essência da composição é também diferente; Man in Black oferece o atalcado calor da íris e a intoxicante doçura da tuberosa com couro, enquanto as novas versões da fragrância acentuam a luminosidade da flor de laranjeira e a doçura da tuberosa. A secagem de ambas as fragrâncias é caracterizada pelo calor das madeiras e pelas notas orientais, e a nova versão une o âmbar, o almíscar e as notas amadeiradas de sândalo, de forma diferente da edição anterior, a versão mais intensa com madeira guaiac, tonka e resina de benjoim.
citrinos, notas verdes, rum flor de laranjeira, tuberosa sândalo, almíscar, âmbar
BVLGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE está disponível no clássico frasco preto, tal como as edições anteriores da coleção, nas quantidades de 30ml (54 euros), 60ml (70 euros) e 100ml (94 euros). Difere do original com sua tampa metálica e um relevo do logótipo Bvlgari com o nome inscrito em prata. Apesar do nome cologne, a fragrância é uma Eau de Toilette.
The luxury collection LE GEMME by BVLGARI from 2014. which includes six fragrances inspired with precious gems continued in the oriental direction with Le Gemme Oriental Collection. The second gem collection was launched in 2015 and its focus is on precious gems that can be found in Arabia. Lazulia celebrates lapis lazuli,Selima conveys the beauty of cornelian, while Zahira evokes the intense shine of topaz.
This year Bvlgari luxury perfume collection leads us to the world of jade, a stone valued in ancient China, Asia and the Tang empire. The new fragrant chapter LE GEMME IMPERIALI includes scents Desiria, Irinia and Splendia putting the speciffic spotlight on white, green and purple jade. Fragrances are not connected only with beautiful jade; they are carefully decorated with floral notes of magnolia, that can be found in the heart of all compositions, also cherished in ancient time.
Articles about previous collections Le Gemme and Le Gemme Orientali:
BVLGARI LE GEMME IMPERIALI - focus on jade and Magnolias!
Jade culture in China has inspired Bvlgari designers who carefully designed new fragrance bottles aligning them with the jade colors. Irinia, Desiria and Splendia take the form of previous Le Gemme bottles in black decorated with white, purple and green surfaces clearly suggesting the type of jades. Details in gold color on the edges and stopper further contribute to the beauty and elegance of the bottle.
BVLGARI LE GEMME IMPERIALI Descriptions and notes
BVLGARI LE GEMME IMPERIALI IRINIA
"A journey into the purity, mysticism and serenity of Ancient China. Inspired by the purest white jade and its aura of peacefulness, respect and generosity. Irina, a name of Greek origin, signifying ‘peace’, pays delicate homage to women of supreme elegance and femininity, whose beauty and poise emanate as much from within as from without.Bvlgari’s Le Gemme Imperiali – Irinia is a sensual and sophisticated Eau de Parfum of sumptuous floral musk notes."
As key notes of the composition, perfumers selected floral notes of magnolia and jasmine followed with sensual musk. The fragrance is available as a 100ml EDP at a price of 235 pounds.
BVLGARI LE GEMME IMPERIALI DESIRIA
"A journey through a luxuriant royal garden of the Tang empire. The soul of this luscious fragrance is mauve jade - a rare and exuberant gemstone. Desiria, meaning ‘desire’, conveys everlasting love and passion throughMauve jade. A sultry and captivating Eau de Parfum, the scent of a Chinese garden fantasized."
Desiria carefully transfers desire with the fragrant bouquet of roses surrounded by magnolia blossoms and a warm cloud of musk. Desiria is available as a 100ml Eau de Parfum at the price of 235 pounds.
BVLGARI LE GEMME IMPERIALI SPLENDIA
"Emblematic of Asia’s imperial power, the sublime green jade gemstone has been coveted by Emperors and Aristocrats for thousands of years. Splendia, a name that evokes the beauty and splendour of the Queen of all jades."
BVLGARI LE GEMME IMPERIALI SPLENDIA
edition 2016
magnolia narcisus moss
Splendia showcases floral notes of magnolia and narcissus over moss that provides a natural and earthy tone. Green jade on the bottle reflects the freshness and green colors with a scent of lush spring daffodils. Splendia is available in a 100 ml Eau de Parfum at the price of 235 pounds.
The new fragrance collection Bvlgari Le Gemme Imperiali is available at the announced prices in Harrods.
Resumo: A sétima fragrância da Bvlgarina coleção Omnia, Paraiba, inspira-se nas selvas tropicais e costas do Brasil oferecendo um acorde cristalino de maracujá e um acorde floral com uma base familiar de vetiver e cacau que faz lembrar o originalOmnia de 2003.
Experimente se gosta de: As fragrâncias das coleções anuais frutais-florais Escada; aromas com temas de coquetél; maracujá; aromas verdes como Calyx; o Omnia original.
Prós & Contras: Paraiba é uma composição muito direta que tem uma combinação gostosa e doce de citrinos e frutas tropicais, e isso já diz tudo; não há nada de revolucionário neste aroma fácil de usar. Como tal, é preciso amar aromas frutais para apreciar o delicioso e suculento maracujá de Paraiba e o acorde de laranja Bigarade, similar à acidez de um kumquat ou kiwi.
Mas o desenvolvimento de Paraiba é um de seus aspetos mais interessantes - o que começa como um frutal floral lentamente se transforma num sutil toque de calor gourmand. As notas de chocolate são indiscerníveis até à segunda hora de desenvolvimento e quando elas chegam, o efeito apenas acrescenta profundidade ao rastro de maracujá; isto é incrivelmente diferente de Missoni 2006 em que a gianduja dominava a composição e lutava contra os tons aquáticos. Aqui nas notas de base é onde podemos reconhecer o original Omnia, até hoje um de meus favoritos da Bvlgari.
"Ao criar Omnia Paraiba viajei ao Brasil e fiquei maravilhado pela forma como o mar, a praia e a floresta formam uma inseparável trilogia. No coração desta profusão de imagens, sons e aromas, uma "sensação de Brasil" se forma, livre dos códigos convencionais." materiais de imprensa de Omnia Paraiba.
Descrição do designer: “Omnia Paraiba se inspira numa das mais únicas gemas sobre a Terra: a radiante Turmalina Paraiba do Brasil. Esta eau de toilette é uma luxuriante criação, interligando o frescor das laranjas amargas com a exuberante flor de maracujá." Bvlgari.com
Número de vezes que testei: 5 na última semana.
Número de vaporizações aplicadas para esta resenha: 2 nas costas da mão a partir de um frasco novo EDT que a Bvlgari me enviou (2015).
Força da fragrância: Eau de Toilette
Desenvolvimento: (Linear / Médio / Complexo): Omnia Paraiba abre com seu acorde frutal, desenvolve-se num eco mais suave floral destas notas de topo (a flor de maracujá domina e eu não consigo na verdade detetar a gardênia) e deixa um quente rastro de pó de cacau que permanece por uma surpreendente quantidade de tempo. É um interessante desenvolvimento à medida que o perfume se move desde uma explosão de frutas para um sopro de pó de cacau.
Longevidade: (Curta / Média / Longa) 2 vaporizações duraram 4-6 horas com as notas de base ficando ainda mais tempo.
Silagem: (Pouca / Média / Muita) Ainda que Paraiba seja realmente suculento na primeira vaporização, o perfume imediatamente seca até um sutil toque de suas notas de topo; provavelmente seguro para usar no trabalho.
Nota sobre a embalagem: Inspirado nas gemas da Bvlgari, o clássico disco duplo do frasco Omnia é desta vez adornado num azul aquático e alojado dentro de uma caixa com os mesmos tons, como o resto da coleção.
Onde posso comprar? Começa em $65 USD por 50ml EDT spray, agora na Bulgari.com e na Sephora.com.
Conclusão: Existem algumas marcas de fragrâncias que parecem desenvolver consistentemente apenas perfumes aos quais se responde de forma pessoal, como se os perfumistas os estivessem desenvolvendo "só para você." A Givenchytem sempre sido uma casa forte para mim e recentemente, com Aqva Divina, Thé Bleu,Man in Black e agora Paraiba, estou me sentindo muito confortável com a Bvlgari. Eu na verdade não deveria estar muito surpreendido, tenho desfrutado de Bvlgari pour Homme e Thé Vert desde que foram lançados no início dos anos 90. 25 anos depois ainda consigo estar apaixonado pela Bvlgari.
Um dos aspetos das fragrâncias Bvlgari a que eu respondo é o uso de aromas familiares apresentados de formas únicas. Por exemplo, em Aqva Divina, a magnolia é apresentada de maneira discreta, quase seca que controla alguns aspetos mais doces, cremosos da flor que encontramos tipicamente em perfumes com tema de magnólia.
O maracujá pode ser um pouco desafiante num perfume, e os resultados podem muitas vezes fazer referência ao ponche de frutas ou produtos de banho e corpo. Otto Kern Noa Noa foi um de meus perfumes favoritos de maracujá, mas foi tristemente descontinuado há muito tempo. Não há como escapar à suculência do acorde de frutas de Paraiba e assim estou muito contente por ser reapresentado a esta nota na perfumaria. Mas a verdadeira magia de Paraiba está na segunda hora quando o aroma relaxa e as notas quentes da base começam a aparecer.
Escolhi saltar a descrição e os materiais de imprensa ao cheirar pela primaira vez Paraiba, simplesmente desfrutando um tester numa loja local da Bvlgari. Fiquei pensando, "Isto me parece muito familiar." Com o passar do tempo, percebi - o original Omnia! Sim, Morillas referencia diretamente o original de 2003 Omnia, mesmo que sutilmente. Aqui em Paraiba, me reuno com o cacau e o acorde de vetiver do Omnia original mas desta vez de forma quase aquática. É preciso um tempo para reconhecer, mas assim que o reconheci, adorei-o absolutamente.
Eu nunca fui ao Brasil ou mesmo à América do Sul; da mesma forma que nunca provei um maracujá. Como tal, não consigo dizer muito sobre a interpretação olfativa de Morillas da alma do Brasil, mas se alguém souber onde consigo encontrar uma barra de chocolate de maracujá, eu alegremente comeria este exótico aroma de Paraiba enquanto o uso!
Bvlgari Man Extreme All Black Edition - limited edition 2015
Bvlgari Man in Black All Black Edition offers an unchanged composition of Bvlgari Man In Black from 2014. Key notes of the composition are rum, tuberose, leather and guaiac wood, making the fragrance magnetically attractive and sophisticated.
Bvlgari Man Extreme All Black Edition carries the unchanged composition ofBvlgari Man Extreme edition from 2013, whose notes leave and elegant and sensual impression. Key notes of the composition are signed by perfumer Alberto Morillas and they highlight Italian bergamot, freesia, cardamom, vetiver and Balsa wood.
Bvlgari Man in Black All Black Editions - limited edition 2015
BVLGARI MAN EXTREME ALL BLACK EDITIONS limited edition 2015
Jewelry and perfume maker Bulgari have partnered with the All Blacks team of New Zealand to present two new special editions called BVLGARI MAN IN BLACK ALL BLACKS and BVLGARI MAN EXTREME ALL BLACKS...
"With courage, boldness, passion and commitment, the All Blacks and Bulgari unite to produce a fragrance collection that can never be matched: BVLGARI MAN ALL BLACKS LIMITED EDITIONS"
The new fragrance flacons house the "neo-oriental" signature of Bulgari Man in Black and the "vibrant Mediterranean freshness" of Bulgari Man Extreme.
The "Moko" facial tattoo pattern has been selected to decorate the surfaces of the bottles. For Bulgari, the motif is there to convey to the modern urbanite its original meaning sourced from "A longstanding indigenous Polynesian tradition, given to warriors as a sign of manhood and extraordinary strength."
These are limited-editions. Bulgari and the All Blacks rugby team have already partnered on other luxury projects, including the production of All Blacks timepieces.
Bvlgariapresenta uma nova edição na coleção Omniaem Outubro de 2015, a fragrância chama-se Omnia Paraiba, a partir da pedra semi-preciosa brasileira Turmalina Paraiba, conhecida por sua cor azur esverdeada. A fragrância é exótica e floral - frutal amadeirada.
O perfumista Alberto Morillas focou-se no aroma da flor de maracujá, inspirado na selva brasileira, nas praias e no oceano. O acorde de Curaçao, lima, pera e maracujá abrem a composição e levam ao coração floral de maracujá e gardénia brasileira. As notas de base incluem vetiver e cacau.
Notas de topo: Curaçao, lima, pera, maracujá Coração: flor de maracujá, gardénia Base: vetiver, cacau
O rosto do perfume é a modelo Edita Vilkeviciute. A fragrância está disponível em 25, 40 e 65 ml Eau de Toilette.
This fall, Bulgari are launching a new addition to the Omnia range called Omnia Paraiba...
Like the other Omnia fragrances, it is inspired by the color and light of a gem, this time the Paraiba Tourmaline of Brazil which is known for its sought-after blue-green shade.
The eau de toilette is a gourmand fruity-floral. It opens on top notes of Laraha orange and passion fruit followed by a heart of Passiflora flower and gardenia resting on base notes of sugar cane and cacao bean.
Bvlgari presents a new addition to the Omnia collection in October 2015, the fragrance called Omnia Paraiba, named after Brazilian semi-precious stoneParaiba Tourmaline, known for its blue – green color. The fragrance is an exotic floral - fruity and woody.
Perfumer Alberto Morillas focused on passion flower scent, inspired by Brazilian jungle, beaches and ocean. Curacao accord, lime, pear and passion fruit open the composition and lead to the floral heart of passion fruit and Brazilian gardenia. The base notes include vetiver and cocoa.
Top notes: Curacao, lime, pear, passion fruit Heart: passion flower, gardenia Base: vetiver, cocoa
The face of the perfume is model Edita Vilkeviciute. The fragrance is available as 25, 40 and 65 ml Eau de Toilette.
É uma fragrância leve e usual, bem gostosa porém com projeção suave e Longevidade moderada. Notei que das 10 mulheres que fizeram o teste para o meu blog 8 disseram ser muito suave. É fácil de a saída é fresca frutal, mas bergamota é extremamente volátil de forma que em poucos minutos temos o floral predominando com o leve e adocicado aroma de hibisco , logo surge o aroma fresco e adocicado da romã e outra nota fresca que é a de flor de vitória regia. O fundo é leve amadeirado-almiscarado. Da pra perceber que a fragrância é bem suave e poderia ter um pouco mais de longevidade e projeção se o almíscar não fosse tão suave. Agora! É muito gostoso, e eu não deixei de adquiri-lo. O mesmo acontece com Endless Euphoria de Calvin Klein. Recomendo!
Uma verdadeira homenagem às rosas. A saída é de um aroma delicado de rosas e violetas com um leve frutal. A Rosa Taif surge pungente no coração da fragrância e contrasta com os aromas de Jasmim ( romântico e da Mimosa ( aroma infantil, quase inocente). Seu fundo é amadeirado almiscarado com um toque de Patchuli, porém o amadeirado aqui é mais leve e menos doce, quase ambarado. Outro perfume romântico e usual, que pode ser usado de dia no trabalho e a noite na faculdade. É bem juvenil e deixa um rastro de elegância apesar de sua projeção ficar limitada às pessoas que chegam mais perto de vc. Vale a pena!
Summary: Bulgari’s 4th installment in the Eau Parfumée au Thé (Tea Perfume) collection after Vert (green), Blanc (white) and Rouge (red) is the lavender, mint, and violet focused Thé Bleu or Blue Tea, combining the best of its predecessors’ citric and powdery compositions with a vanillic lavender accord. Of special note is the inclusion of shiso leaf, a rarity in modern perfumery.
Try this if you like: Lavender; powdery scents; leafy green aromas; the other Bulgari Eau Parfumées, especially Thé Blanc and Thé Vert; Oolong tea; petrol fumes.
Pros & Cons: I’m a huge lavender fan so was pleasantly surprised that overall, Bleucapitalizes on the purple herb! And as I already have a number of lavender-focused fragrances, I was even more excited that Bleu fills the gap in my collection for a lavender-tea aroma. This led me to wonder why Thé Bleu wasn’t actually named Thé Lavande until I did some research and discovered at Botanical-Online.com that there really is such a thing as blue tea. Apparently, Oolong tea is also known as blue tea and is semi-fermented, longer than green tea and less than black tea. As mentioned above, the use of shiso, with its minty-citrus vibe, is also quite noticeable throughout the development.
The bottle and packaging of Thé Bleu are both lovely and the fragrance is easily unisex, though some might find it reminiscent of bath products for infants with its gentle powdery lavender. Thanks to the violet leaf, there is an intriguing petrol note that some reviewers have found offputting but I find compelling. As an EDC, longevity and sillage are both modest after the 2nd hour.
Notes: “Lavender, Shiso Leaves, Oolong Tea, Violet, Iris and Musk.”—Bulgari.com
Designer’s Description: “Inspired by the finest Chinese Oolong Tea, an airy luxury Eau de Cologne for men and women. A precious fragrance with floral and aromatic tones, a new sensation of renaissance for the body and the mind.”—Bulgari.com
Number of times tested: Three times over the last week.
Number of sprays applied for this review: One spray to the back of my hand from a 2.5 oz bottle sent to me from Bulgari’s PR agency in the USA (ca. 2015).
Fragrance strength: EDC
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Thé Bleu shimmers and radiates throughout its development with alternating accords of lavender (sometimes with a vanillic, almost mimosa-like powderiness), violet (more leaf than flower), and bitter, earthy tea notes (thanks to the shiso and oolong). Whatever musk is used is subtle and supports the longevity. The drydown most closely resembles herbal lavender. The power of the violet and iris in the midnotes is surprising and at times even startling.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) Not bad for an EDC though the scent was rather subtle after its third hour; four-six hours overall.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Not as quiet as the original Thé Vert EDC but more in keeping with Thé Blanc and Rouge; definitely office-safe.
Note about the packaging: Bulgari continues its frosted, glass cylinder as used in the original Thé Vert and pour Femme, this time in a soft aquatic blue with gold cap and accents. A liberal sprayer adorns the bottle and the fragrance is packaged in a white, paper box with gold and blue accents.
Where can I buy it? A 75 ml EDC spray is $97 USD at Bulgari.com.
The Bottom Line: It is truly exciting to see Bulgari expand their tea line. Having been a fan of all of the tea launches and still wearing Rouge (red) and Vert Extreme (green), I was eager to approach Bleu without any knowledge of the composition. I immediately recognized the lavender, violet or violet leaf, and the earthy tea notes. A powdery violet-vanilla emerged at the fringes which I considered might be iris and I knew there was a synthetic musk anchoring the composition. The one note I didn’t immediately perceive was shiso leaf, likely because it is such an unexpected treat to find shiso in a perfume!
Having lived in Japan throughout the 2000’s, shiso was one of my favorite discoveries. A member of the mint family, shiso is not quite as bracing as peppermint for example, and also has a lemony-citric vibe. It is often served with sashimi and shredded radish as a kind of wrapper and is just as ubiquitous in South Korea as Japan. Comme des Garçons created a striking take on shiso as part of their Series 1 Leaves line; Mandy Aftel delivers an intriguing inspiration in her Aftelier line; and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz (DSH) and Roger & Gallet also offer addictive interpretations.
What all of this adds up to in Bleu is a slightly bitter, herbal, leafy composition that is quite unusual and unlike anything else recently launched on the market. It is not a candy sweet or peppered lavender, nor is it a straightforward tea aroma; such complexity should be expected from Bulgari by now. The addition of violet also creates a surprising accent that we quite often find in aromas offering a gasoline/automotive/petrol note such as Histoires de Parfums Pétroleum from their Edition Rare line. Not quite as easy to love (or to wrap one’s head around) as say Thé Blanc, lavender and violet-lovers will be thrilled to find Bulgari finally embracing these notes in a new tea-themed fragrance.
Maracujá; imagem de Maria-Brazil.org
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