Givaudan Presents a Book in Paris on Their 250 Year Long History

by: Sophie Normand

Givaudan will launch on March 22nd the book Givaudan, une odyssée des arômes et des parfums which traces its 250 years of rich history. As a world tour of odors and flavors, this book focuses on the know-how of this global leader in perfumery and flavors. 
 

   

Givaudan was founded as a perfumery company in 1895 in Zurich, Switzerland by Leon and Xavier Givaudan, although some parts of the modern company date back as far as 1796. In 1820, in Grasse (France), Claude Roure successfully puts his mark on the fragrance industry, establishing Roure-Bertrand & Fils, which provides aromatic plants and essential oils, such as jasmine and rose. Roure eventually merges with Givaudan in 1991. The famous Givaudan Perfumery School was founded under the guidance of Roure perfumer Jean Carles, in 1946. Carles had taken young perfumers under his wing and helped guide their training well before his tutelage became a ‘school’. When Roure merged with Givaudan in 1991, the Perfumery School was retained and in 1997 finally moved from Grasse to more modern facilities on the outskirts of Paris where it remains today.

 

This exclusive publication captures Givaudan’s contribution to the industry, from its know-how to its creativity to the work it has undertaken to protect the natural resources that are used in its creations. With each turn of the page, readers explore a new perspective of the captivating history. It represents a gustatory and olfactory adventure which explores the expertise of Givaudan in chemical molecules as well as its experience in natural raw materials. As a world tour of scents, this ambitious book takes us through the whole process of perfume creation: from the plant crop to the actual perfume composing.
 

The title translates as "An Odyssey of Flavors and Perfumes" and specialist and author Annick Le Guérer provides a historic analysis of the industry, joined by researcher Caroline Champion for a philosophic view and supported by Professor Brigitte Proust regarding the scientific knowledge connected to Givaudan. Writers Percy Kempf and Sean Rose also contributed to this book. Contributions from the book’s five authors express the philosophical, historical, scientific and literary aspects of an industry that touches the emotions of millions of people around the world on a daily basis.

Caroline Champion, Annick Le Guérer and Percy Kempf pose for Fragrantica

It's a tribute to smell and taste, whose intention is served by the remarkable contributions of photographers Denis Dailleux and Lili Roze, adding the sensory experience of sight to the two senses Givaudan specializes in. These beautiful images showcase the essence of fragrances and flavors and reveal the people, places and ingredients that have helped to establish the company as it is today.

The olfactory compositions of photographer Lili Rose, presented during the event

The authors Annick Le Guérer, Caroline Champion and Percy Kempf were present at the event hosted by Givaudan to share their interesting points of view about the place of perfume and flavors in our society.

 

Givaudan, une odyssée des arômes et des parfums (written in French), will be availablein French bookstores starting March 10, and from March 22 also abroad.

For a first impression of this publication, we invite you to visit www.givaudan.com. The website includes inspiring articles and a video based on the book, which provides fascinating insights into the many facets of flavors and fragrances – both today and back through time.

Source: Givaudan website.

A 40th Anniversary Edition Of Perfume By Süskind Gets A Christian Lacroix Makeover

Book collectors and perfume lovers alike can turn their attention to the 40th Anniversary Edition of the French edition of Perfume The Story of a Murderer, by German writer Patrick Süskind. Published by Le Livre de Poche at the end of 2015, its cover has been illustrated by fashion designer Christian Lacroix...

First published in 1985, the novel about an overly gifted criminal mind, in the realm of olfaction, became a bestseller and was adapted into a movie by Tom Tykwer in 2006, to whose preview this blogger went then in Boston {See our movie review}.

The Anniversary Edition offers more than meets the eye. If commercial pictures show the cover, yet they do not stress that it's a hardbound tome; most people will expect a paperback in this collection.

Other fancy details include endpapers imitating artisan marbled paper.

The translation from German into French is by Bernard Lortholary.

The pages are fine, recalling the bible paper used in the upscale, French La Pléiade collection at Gallimard - but not quite as fine.

The top-edge, fore-edge and foot-edge of the book have been colored in orange.

SRP: 7,90€

New Book Looks At The Birth Of The Modern French Fragrance Industry In The 19th Century

A new French book entitled "La fabrique des parfums : naissance d'une industrie de luxe" by Eugénie Briot looks at the birth of the modern fragrance industry in France in the last decades of the 19th century...

The author has previously published articles derived from her PhD dissertation. This is the sum of her work meant for a larger educated public.

According to publisher Editions Vendémiaire, the main argument of the book centers on the passage from aristocratic practices revolving around perfume to the popularization of fragrances in the bourgeoisie at the end of the 19th century when it becomes an established sign of social distinction, an analysis which reprises a famous sociological study by Pierre Bourdieu.

Parallel to this social practice where Paris becomes an arbiter of tastes, takes place the birth of a modern French perfume industry.

Rose, violet and heliotrope fragrances scent the fashionable places of the time. Piver, Houbigant, Guerlain ou Bourjois are the names of the day adorning the windows of the new department stores.

La Fabrique des parfums
Naissance d'une industrie de luxe
Eugénie BRIOT

ISBN : 978-2-36358-175-4

Prix : 24 €
416 pages

Anthropologie liv Fictions Review

by: Elena Knezhevich

Anthropologie is a store where you go to treat yourself. You can live your everyday life passing by this store: if you don't walk in, you will not lose anything practical you need. But if you walk in, you might have a feeling that you need everything there. This is what art does to us. Artists see life and things from a different angle and the opportunity to join them is very tempting.

Recently we published official information about the Anthropologie Fictions perfume collection of three perfumes. In short, each edition is a collaboration between a perfumer and an illustrator on a love story which begins on paper and continues in your mind.

A photo of each creator of the perfume stories, as well as their own short bio,
are printed on the bookmarks in each of the novels.

Books as a decor is a usual thing in Anthropologie stores. Books as the inspiration or presentation of a niche perfume have become a very modern and quite natural way to sell you more than just a scent, but in fact a piece of somebody's life experience which becomes your own.The creators of Anthropologie Fictions propose to you a nice way to imagine, see and smell perfume. In all honesty, I like to be my own perfume storyteller, but in this case I am curious to see somebody else's imagination at work.

The names of the perfumes (or novels) sound like those of cheap love novelletes - they are very suggestive - although they fit the silly mood you get in the Antropologie stores, where you can allow yourself something you could make fun of in your everyday, very busy life routine.

I received two sets of Anthropologie Fictions for a review and would love to compare my own experience with two of our Fragrantica readers (USA only, sorry for that).

LOS ANGELES. She called but he was unreachable

This perfume is from Southern California and describes my favorite part of the day, right before sunset. I am in the right place and time, I just have to make a small journey in time and imagine myself here 50 years ago, as it's said in the story. And, yes, I am in love, imagining his ah, so familiar scent.

on the bottle is a ticket to the cinema for one person

The composition is a clean, citrusy cologne, with some fresh, floral nuances for elegance and vintage chic. Powder is a necessary element to put you in a dreamy, nostalgic, hazy evening mood and get you closer to HIS skin. This is a smell of a gentleman, who chooses to smell only as much as his everyday morning grooming products allow. And they smell quite modest and traditional, because perfumes are made for women, as it was believed.

This reminiscence of HIS smell, together with the time reference to mid-century and very practical utilization of grooming products by men, makes the fragrance actually very sensual, it has a very direct link to HIS body. Nevertheless, I wouldn't reserve this perfume for men only, it is a story, and you can retell it your own way.

LONDON. She knew he was for-ever

on the bottle is a tea bag label

He and she on Primrose Hill (on the northern side of Regent's Park in London), in the month of April. This is very much an Antropologie fragrance, which creates a fragile romantic atmosphere around you. It is very green and very wet, full of air, tiny flowers and green tea. It is created to feel young and careless. I would also call it 'fragrance with a view'. All the world is in front of you, just as London is seen from Primrose Hill. You can feel that big space, a great deal of only fresh air before your eyes that reaches something in the distance.

on the bottle is a Paris metro ticket

PARIS. She met him in secret

An unexpected love affair in Paris. Sounds like a bad cliche, but why not? At least we know what to imagine ;o). This fragrance is the most 'niche' of all. It is a leathery / ambery perfume with a 'dark and not-for-all' character. It is not too dark though, because it was created for good natured Anthropologie. I sense lipstick in it (violet+rose), as was announced, which makes it a sensual feminine evening scent. It also made me think of candles and something old but nice, which fits the reputation of ambery fragrances in general.

You can find the Anthropologie Fictions fragrances in Anthropologie stores and online.

Photos by Elena Knezhevich

A Special Offer for Fragrantica Readers from Michael Edwards

by: Jodi Battershell

Michael Edwards, renowned fragrance expert and publisher of the invaluableFragrances of the World editions, has his finger on the pulse of the fragrance world. His recent lecture at Esxence 2015, "How the West Fell in Love with Oud," charted the course of the oud craze from its faintest rumblings in the early 1990s. Edwards' vast experience and long tenure in the fragrance industry give him a unique perspective on the trends and trajectory of perfume in the 21st century.

We recently announced the newest edition of his guide, Fragrances of the World 2015, which is the book's 31st edition. An astounding 9,500 fragrances are included in this year's volume. With such extensive information in a single reference, it's no wonder the book is cherished by fragrance industry professionals and fragrance fans alike.

Michael Edwards invites Fragrantica readers to use special Promo code TICA15 athttp://www.fragrancesoftheworld.com to receive a 20% discount on the purchase of the book.

Please visit the official website to learn more about the book and order it with the discount code.