by: Miguel Matos
There are brands that promise the word “intense” and others who deliver it. Nicolaïjust launched a new edition called Ambre Cashmere Intense in eau de parfum concentration and I have the joy of possessing a bottle of it, courtesy of the brand during last Pitti Fragranze, where they were presenting it for the first time. Now,amber is one of my favourite accords, to the point of salivating only at the sight of it. And amber is such an easy scent to love. I haven't found many amber fragrances that I don't like. So I was more than happy to try a new one from the house that recently created great wonders such as Musc Monoi and Cuir Cuba.
Ambre Cashmere Intense follows the line of other fragrances by Nicolaï, by being within a field of familiar notes. Nicolaï is not about groundbreaking scents and it doesn't want to do iconoclast works. The role of the brand is to please and not to disturb. This perfume goes into that line of thinking, but with a twist that has to do with strength. So, what is this about? Amber, sweet as it can possibly be, with a vanillic overdose and cascades of powdery effervescence. This is a night scent for the sugar craving amber lovers and daytime doesn't seem like the best choice for a full-wearing. This scent requires cold breezes as the powder and the sweetness are not balanced. They come in full attack. And that can be a good or a bad thing depending on your taste. Patricia and Axel de Nicolaï wanted Ambre Cashmere Intense to be delicate and smooth. I'm not sure I would use those adjectives, since the power contained in it is enourmous. Too big to be delicate. I tell you: I only apply two sprays on my neck and I feel suffocated if the weather is warm. It may also be the extreme sweetness that makes it hard for me to fully appreciate it now that I can still wear a t-shirt. The creators wanted it to leave a long-lasting trail and they have surely succeeded.
"The start is made by a light pepper-mandarin vibration,
quickly softened by a floral iris bouquet.
The ‘amber’ chord of the fragrance is sublimated
by vanilla absolute, escorted by Siam benzoin
and styrax resinoid. A rich and elegant creation
from which the long trail, the tenacity
and the sensuality can only be irresistible."
quickly softened by a floral iris bouquet.
The ‘amber’ chord of the fragrance is sublimated
by vanilla absolute, escorted by Siam benzoin
and styrax resinoid. A rich and elegant creation
from which the long trail, the tenacity
and the sensuality can only be irresistible."
To tell the truth, amber was already done a thousand times, so when a brand launches a new amber-centered fragrance you cannot expect it to be a one-of-a-kind product (although there are always exceptions). So I think that it is normal to make associations, since it's such a classic theme and if you tweak it too much it is no longer an amber. To my nose this perfume almost immediately recalled Yves Rocher's Voile d'Ambre with maybe the sweet tooth of Victoria's Secret Amber Romance. It's also not too far from L'Occitane's Ambre or even Ambre de Cabochard minus the juicy red fruit notes. The difference is an undeliable quality of ingredients and the black pepper in the top notes that freshens it up a bit while making it spicy. In the heart notes, orris root really shines and brings the power into the scene. When you realise that orris is paired with violet, it makes sense to feel both sugar and make-up tones. But the base notes are also helping this to get thick and heavy. Vanilla absolute and tonka bean just radiate in full-power density, along with the usual partners in crime benzoin and labdanum to create the amber accord. The added musk is one of powdery cleanliness, not the dirty animalic, since you already have styrax for this job. Patchouli helps the sweet notes to reach for the gourmand afertaste. Yes, there's a lot going on, but that doesn't mean the the fragrance is too busy. It's not. This is an easily understandable amber theme that plays on the hardcore without second excuses. But it's the amber for the night time and yes it might be a bit on the feminine side but it's not a clearly gendered scent. I'm waiting for December to dwelve in it with no restraints.
Ambre Cashmere Intense
Top notes: black pepper, mandarin orange and citron
Middle notes: orris root, violet and cloves
Base notes: vanilla, labdanum, benzoin, tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood, musk and amber.
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Image and quote from Pnicolai.com
Nicolaï has been one of the pioneers of Haute Parfumerie, launching in 1989 under the combined forces of Patricia de Nicolaï and her husband. The duo has collaborated to make Nicolai one of the largest and richest collection of perfumes with such cult highlights as