French crystal makerLaliquereleased a new fragrance for men calledL'Insoumis« The Scent of a Free Spirit »...
The eau de toilette was composed by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin from Firmenich. L'Insoumis is presented as a fougère reinvented, a scent genre traditionally marked as being the most masculine of all while heralding the modernity of perfumery by the end of the 19th century.
Pellegrin is said to have worked with a palette of notes which epitomize manliness in bottled form. The fragrance features top notes of green basil, bergamot and rum. The heart rests on lavender, clary sage and powdery black pepper. The base traces a sillage anchored by an unusual, grassy and tanned patchouli cœur blended with vetiver.
Chypre d'Héraud
The flacon draws inspiration from an art deco flacon called Chypre d'Héraud (1925) while the sides of the bottle reference Les Tourbillons vase (1926).
Read more at http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2016/10/lalique_l_insoumis.html#aAjy3JeJ2Kj3HlvM.99
Mais um artigo na série de resenhas de fragrâncias que interroga, “Como é que uma fragrância transcende o gênero?”
Olá e bem-vindos à minha coluna aqui no Fragrantica “Transgênero (clique para ler outros artigos da série)”, uma exploração de aroma, gênero e liberdade olfativa. Ainda que eu defenda que as fragrâncias não tenham gênero, os estereótipos socioculturais sobre a masculinidade prevalecem muitas vezes nas perfumarias. Juntem-se a mim à medida que eu exploro um dos meus aromas favoritos na busca por desafiar a retórica do marketing e abordar a questão, “Como uma fragrância transcende o gênero?”
Experimente se gosta de: Perfumes à base de baunilha e amêndoas sem cheiro de sobremesa; tabaco aromático de cachimbo; gourmands sutis embora doces e duradouros; um toque de pimenta rosa; e como um avaliador sugeriu, um pouco de bebida: “Não há notas alcoólicas nele, mas eu juro que sinto algo “boozy”, talvez rum escuro? Ele acrescenta aquele algo a mais na base de baunilha e fava tonka.”
Em termos de música, toda vez que o uso me lembro de "Pour le Egyptienne" de Debussy.
Prós & Contras: Enquanto alguns possam achar a composição ligeiramente datada ou retrô – como um avaliador escreveu “Acabou o tornando... não sei qual nota exatamente, mas oriental demais para mim. Tem cheiro de perfume de mulher velha” – outros sem dúvida apreciarão a riqueza de sua composição, como outro avaliador escreveu “Não tem NADA de datado! Um perfume com baunilha bem quente com nuances de especiarias, louro e pimenta. Um perfume realmente sexy, que realmente cheira caro.”
Embora sua publicidade queira que examinemos esse aroma como um perfume de mulher, um número de avaliadores consideraram sua pungência como “masculina”. Por exemplo:
"Achei a saída com um quê de cheiro medicinal masculino com um toque de Vick Vaporub assobiando pelo meu nariz, o que deve ter sido por causa da nota de louro. A fragrância se tornou mais picante e desta vez o musk não estava tão evidente e a baunilha finalmente atingiu seu ponto máximo.”
“É sedutor de forma elegante. Sou homem e o uso, e acredite, muitos caras heterossexuais elogiam o meu cheiro ;) sexy e elegante.”
"Eu acho que esta fragrância é totalmente unissex. A silagem e a longevidade são potentes mas não exageradas. Eu definitivamente o recomendo se você gosta de perfumes quentes e picantes.”
Embora a mistura de baunilha e amêndoas não seja tão gourmand quanto o xaroposo Hypnotic Poison de Dior, o aroma é de fato doce. Um avaliador explicou, “Um extravagante oriental vanilla com um toque glamouroso. Muito sofisticado, deixando uma impressão quente e levemente polvorosa. Mas você precisa gostar dos doces para se apaixonar por esta fragrância pesada e especial.”
A fragrância é um pouco complicada de usar já que abre forte e rapidamente se aquieta na pele, apenas para reaparecer depois. Ótima longevidade, curiosa silagem.
Notas: As notas de cabeça são louro, bergamota e pimento rosa; as notas de coração são jasmim, heliotrópio e amêndoas; as notas de base são sândalo, fava tonka, patchouli e baunilha.
Descrição do designer: “LALIQUE LE PARFUM, Um rastro olfativo oriental inesquecível para uma mulher iniciada e que é carinhosa e charmosa." Lalique.com
Número de vezes que testei: 100+ ao longo de 10 anos.
Número de sprays aplicados para esta resenha: 1 spray no dorso do meu pulso de um frasco que comprei na internet em 2016.
Potência da fragrância: Eau de Parfum
Evolução: (Linear / Médio / Complexo) Le Parfum abre com um acorde de tabaco melífluo e com nuances de cereja, o que é misterioso porque nenhuma dessas notas está listada; isso deve ser graças à brilhante mistura de baunilha, amêndoas e fava tonka com um toque de rum e patchouli. A saída é doce embora não cremosa, em vez disso um pouco especiada com pimenta rosa; eu normalmente não me dou bem com essa nota mas ela não me atrapalha... na verdade, eu nem a teria reconhecido se não tivesse lido a lista de notas. O jasmim e o patchouli são ambos praticamente imperceptíveis para mim e o aroma todo na verdade cheira como um licor ou extrato de baunilha. Estou surpreso por não ter musk já que eu costumo o detectar no dry-down.
Longevidade: (Curta / Média / Longa) Embora a fragrância de fato pareça desaparecer depois da primeira hora, ainda posso detectá-la até 8 horas depois.
Silagem: (Pouca / Média / Muita) Le Parfum é bizarro na forma como abre bombástico mas depois rapidamente se suaviza como um sussurro, para depois reaparecer umas boas 5-6 horas depois.
Nota sobre a embalagem: O fraco quadrado de vidro inspirado no estilo deco já mudou uma vez até agora: Encarnações originais apenas mostravam o nome da marca “Lalique” ao longo da parte frontal enquanto frascos mais novos também incluem “Le Parfum” bem abaixo do nome da marca. Um cordão vermelho escarlate adorna o gargalo do spray enquanto uma tampa menor, quadrada e preta translúcida retrata a “Masque de Femme” de Lalique – “O painel Masque de Femme criado por René Lalique em 1935 para decorar uma fonte incorpora o poder imaginativo de seu criador que era fascinado por mulheres e pela natureza. Ao mesmo tempo clássica e avant-garde, esta peça de arte revela a face de uma mulher misteriosa com traços delicados, cercada de uma fauna aquática.” Lalique.com
O frasco é acomodado em numa simples caixa vermelha e preta inspirada no estilo deco.
O extrato (7,5ml) foi lançado em uma versão menor do EDP com a Masque de Femme na frente do frasco junto a um cordão preto. Também houve uma edição limitada, abaixo, em vermelho escarlate.
Onde posso comprar? Encontre na internet a meros US$35-40 por um tester EDP de 100ml.
Conclusão: A primeira vez que provei Le Parfum, o achei denso e doce demais e isso me remeteu imediatamente a perfumes como Davidoff Silver Shadow, Mauboussin pour Femme, Kenzo Jungle (Elephant) e Arpège pour Homme. Na segunda vez, fiquei surpreso com sua sutileza. Por uns bons meses fiquei pensando se a formulação havia sido mudada radicalmente.
Na terceira vez que o provei, eu me encharquei com o perfume e não pude me desfazer da semelhança com duas das minhas baunilhas favoritas – Joop Le Bain e Givenchy Pi. Eu sou fã de orientais vanilla potentes; acrescente um toque de amêndoas (que quase sempre traz um tom de cereja) e eu costumo me render.
As fragrâncias de Lalique são uma cesta de surpresas para mim. Eu adoro o pour Homme original (novamente, baunilha maravilhosa!) mas realmente nada mais na linha havia me conquistado. Me apaixonei por Eau de Lalique e sua saída da típica composição “eau” e depois novamente com Encre Noire. Os aromas das novas Les Compositions e La Collection oferecem uma beleza rica que eu simplesmente não posso pagar e, portanto, ainda não fui atrás.
Eu agora estou no meu segundo frasco de Le Parfum e o usei em uma festa ontem. No meio do dia eu lamentei o desaparecimento de Le Parfum e amaldiçoei sua decepcionante longevidade; quando cheguei em casa no final do dia, fui novamente cumprimentado por Le Parfum e me lembrei que ele nunca realmente desaparece. O que é isso? Teria eu me tornado anósmico a algo na composição? Com uma saída tão doce você poderia imaginá-lo como um perfume para o frio, mas o calor parece trazê-lo à vida.
Um membro do Fragrantica acertou em cheio quando escreveu “Lalique Le Parfum não é complexo, misterioso ou “corajoso” em seu conceito ou composição. Há pouca evolução e nada de combinações loucas de notas. Não há truques, peculiaridades ou quebra-cabeças olfativos. Ainda assim, estou apaixonado por esta beleza feita para o frio!” Concordo totalmente.
Você já provou Lalique Le Parfum? O que você acha dele ou associações de gênero em relação a aromas à base de baunilha? São eles necessariamente femininos ou masculinos na sua própria cultura? O que cria essas associações para você?
This is another in a series of fragrance reviews that asks, “How does fragrance transcend gender?” Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample of the current Lalique Le Parfum, shipped anywhere in the world, free!
Hello and welcome to “Gender Bender (click me to read others in this series)”, an exploration of aroma, gender and scented freedom. Though by no means do I personally prescribe to fragrance having a gender, sociocultural stereotypes about masculinity and femininity often prevail at the fragrance counters and are viewed as important distinctions for many fragrance fans. Join me as I explore some of my favorite aromas in my quest to challenge marketing rhetoric and address the question, “How does fragrance transcend gender?”
Try this if you like: Non-foody vanilla and almond scents; aromatic pipe tobacco; subtle yet sweet, long-lasting gourmands; a kick of pink pepper; and as one reviewer suggested, a bit of booze: "There is no alcohol notes in it, but I swear I can smell something boozy, dark rum maybe? It...adds that extra something to the vanilla andtonka bean base."
In terms of music, every time I wear this I'm reminded of Debussy's "Pour le Egyptienne":
Pros & Cons: While some may find the composition slightly old-fashioned or retro - as one reviewer wrote "It turned really... I don't know which note it is exactly, but it's too oriental for me. Smells like an old lady's perfume" - others will undoubtedly appreciate the richness of this composition, as another reviewer noted "It's totally NOT old fashioned! Very warm vanilla scent with a hint of spices, bay leaf and pepper. Really sexy, really 'expensive smell' perfume."
Though the advertising wants us to examine this aroma as the scent of a woman, a number of reviewers have discussed its spiciness as "masculine". For example
"I found the opening had a bit of a mediciny masculine smell with a tinge of Vicks Vapor Rub whistling by my nose which must have been due to the bay note. The fragrance was more spicy and this time the musk was not as evident and vanilla did finally peek it's head out."
"it's seductive in an elegant way, i am a guy and i wear it and believe me even heterosexual guys give compliments on the way i smell ;) sexy and elegant."
"I think this fragrance is totally unisex. The sillage and longevity are strong but not overpowering. I definitely recommend it if you love hot spicy scents."
Though the vanilla and almond blend is not as gourmand as Dior's buttercream-like Hypnotic Poison, the aroma is indeed sweet. A guest reviewer explained, "Extravagant Vanilla-Oriental with glamorous touch. Very sophisticated, leaving a warm and slightly powdery impression. But you need to have a sweet-tooth (or is it a sweet-nose for the perfume-lover?) to fall into love with this heavy and special fragrance."
The fragrance is a bit puzzling to wear as it starts off strong and quickly quiets on the skin, only to re-appear later. Great longevity, curious sillage.
Notes: Top notes are west indian bay, bergamot and pink pepper; middle notes are jasmine, heliotrope and almond; base notes are sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli and vanilla.
Designer’s Description: “LALIQUE LE PARFUM, An unforgettable oriental olfactive trail for an initiated woman, who is caring and charming." Lalique.com
Number of times tested: 100+ over the last 10 years.
Number of sprays applied for this review: 1 spray to the back of my wrist from a bottle I purchased online in 2016.
Fragrance strength: Eau de Parfum
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Le Parfum opens with a honeyed cherry tobacco accord which is mysterious because neither of those notes are present; this is likely due to the brilliant blend of vanilla, almond and tonka with a touch of bay and patchouli. The opening is sweet though not creamy, but rather just a tad spicy with pink pepper; I usually don't do well with that note but am just fine with it here...in fact I wouldn't have recognized it if I hadn't read the list of notes. Jasmine and patchouli are both nearly imperceptible to me here and truly the entire aroma smells like a vanilla liqueur/cordial or extract. I'm surprised there is no musk here as I often detect it in the drydown.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) Although the fragrance does in fact seem to disappear after the first hour, I can still detect it as many as 8 hours later.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Le Parfum is an oddity in that it starts with a bang but then quickly softens to a whisper, only to re-appear a good 5-6 hours later.
Note about the packaging: The deco-inspired square glass bottle has changed once so far: Original incarnations only sported the brand name "Lalique" across the front while newer bottles also include "Le Parfum" just under the brand name. A scarlet red tassel adorns the neck of the sprayer while the smaller, square, black lucite cap portrays Lalique's "Masque de Femme" - "The Masque de Femme panel created by René Lalique in 1935 to adorn a fountain embodies the imaginative power of its creator who was fascinated by women and nature. Both classic and avant-garde, this piece of art reveals the face of a mysterious woman with delicate features, surrounded by aquatic fauna." Lalique.com
The bottle is housed in a simple, deco-inspired, red and black paper box.
The pure parfum (.25 oz) has been released in a smaller version of the EDP with the Masque de Femme on the front of the bottle and dangling from the (black) tassel. There was also a limited edition version, seen below, in scarlet red.
Where can I buy it? Find it online for as little as $35-40 USD for a 100ml EDP tester.
The Bottom Line: The first time I sampled Le Parfum, I found it to be far too rich and too sweet and was immediately reminded of scents such as Davidoff's Silver Shadow, Mauboussin pour Femme, Kenzo Jungle (Elephant) and Arpege pour Homme. The second time I sampled it, I was surprised by its subtlety. For a good few months I pondered if the formulation had radically changed.
The third time I tested it, I doused myself in the scent and couldn't shake off the resemblance to two of my other favorite vanillas - Joop Le Bain and Givenchy Pi. I'm a sucker for a strong, oriental vanilla; add a dash of almond (which can often lend a cherry tone) and I'm usually smitten.
Lalique fragrances are a mixed bag for me. I love the original pour Homme (again, wonderful vanilla!) but really was not moved by anything else from the line. I fell in love with Eau de Lalique's unique departure from the typical "eau" composition and then again with Encre Noir. The newer Les Compositions and La Collection aromas offer a wealth of beauty that I just can't afford and so haven't really engaged with yet.
I'm now on my second bottle of Le Parfum and wore it to a party yesterday. Halfway through the day I mourned the disappearance of Le Parfum and cursed its disappointing longevity; when I got home at the end of the day, I was again greeted by Le Parfum and reminded that it never really disappears. What is this? Do I become anosmic to something in the composition? With such a sweet beginning, one might imagine this as a cold weather scent yet warmth also seems to bring Le Parfum to life.
One Fragrantica member hit the nail right on the head when writing "Lalique is not complex or mysterious or "brave" in its concept or composition. There is little scent-evolution & no crazy combination of notes are used. There are no gimmicks, quirks or cleverly concealed olfactory twists & turns. Yet, I am in love with this cool-weather beauty!" I couldn't agree more.
Have you experienced Lalique Le Parfum? What are your thoughts or gendered associations with vanilla-based aromas? Are they necessarily feminine or masculine in your own culture? What creates those associations for you?
Leave a comment below by 4/1/16 for your chance to receive a sample of the current Lalique Le Parfum, shipped anywhere in the world, free! The winner will be chosen by the author and notified by Fragrantica private message.
Each new edition from the house of Lalique is a reason to rejoice for any fragrance lover. When the brand launches something on the market it means that the world just got prettier and it probably smells amazing. So when I saw that there was a new perfume called Rêve d'Infini, I couldn't resist emailing the brand asking for a sample and more info. Only after that I took a closer look at the notes in the Fragrantica announcement and saw that they were not really my thing. But I waited until I received the sample. It could be a surprise, or not.
Being a declared hater of freesia, I was afraid of trying this fragrance. This flower must be very well disguised in order not to affect and ruin a perfume for me. And as soon as I sprayed Rêve d'Infini, my fears were confirmed. Freesia (and I guess peony also) is not shy in this composition signed by Richard Ibanez. The first minutes are a fresh and innocent symphony of this rosy and dewy flower with maybe a touch of aldehyde. The prominent bergamot makes it a bit bitter and fruity in a perfect blend, but just too girly, fresh and perfect. Don't get me wrong, it is really not bad but very common and too romantic for me. Freesia and jasmine makes me think of the Anaïs Anaïs commercial back in the 1980's, that I find so off putting.
The opening is a crowd pleaser for all the lovers of contemporary fruity-floral-fresh fragrances. The lychee contributes with a pleasant touch but in general the combo brings nothing new. But wait. After 10 minutes a parade of different moments start to develop as the true complexity of this Lalique starts to show. The girly opening started to darken a bit. Powdery shades began to appear, strange elements were lurking behind and even though it was not possible to discern them, I sensed that the best was yet to come. Hmmm, I had a feeling that the show had not started yet. Bear with me, dear reader, for it takes a while until the curtains are fully open to this spectacular variety show. For now I will tell you about the flacon, while the top notes vanish from my skin.
“The new Lalique fragrance, Rêve d'Infini, draws its inspiration from the designs of René Lalique and the infinity symbol in the shape of an 'eight' already referenced by the Art Nouveau scrolls of the artist's jewels. In 1947, his son Marc Lalique turned it into the elegant 'Séville' motif for a crystal chandelier.
In 2012, the motif expresses the house's return to its roots: fashioned in gold and diamonds in the 'Ardente' collection, it marks the rebirth of Lalique's Fine Jewelry Department. Today, with Rêve d'Infini, this symbol of the eternal feminine is translated into scent.” - Lalique Press Release
The infinity symbol is engraved in the gold ring placed around the neck of the bottle, and, of course, it is referenced by the name of the fragrance, which means “Dream of Infinity”. This flacon is the same as the one created for the beautiful Living Lalique, in an hexagonal shape but in Rêve d'Infini the edges are clear instead of rimmed as in the previous bottle. The glass has a frosted white gradient which works very well with the rosy shade of pink from the juice inside. The cap has a piece of rose mesh fabric inside.
All in all, the bottle is stunning, and a good variation of Living Lalique. I would keep it even if I didn't like the perfume. Which brings us back to the subject of its intriguing development...
After a while, the scent becomes much more sensual, abandoning the apparently simple and common opening. There comes a powdery and buttery Iris, the same accord we found in Living Lalique, which has a real body, a natural feeling and a luxurious presence. Here the girly start becomes an all-woman scent. Even though freesia is listed as heart note and rose as a top note, my nose feels this in the opposite way. The heart of the fragrance surprised me when I wasn't expecting much of it. So what I smell after 15 minutes is rose, orris and jasmine with a touch of peach and woods. It is still very refreshing but full-bodied and luxurious. The notes all come in an effervescent way, alive and dynamic. Still very feminine and not groundbreaking but very high-quality stuff. When the familiar rose, peach and cedarwood accords are settled and we start to see this as a true Lalique fragrance, there comes an unexpected twist: a salty musk. Something marine or iodic and a mineral aspect.
The drydown of Rêve d'Infini is composed by a remanent trace of powdery notes and a mix of musks and salty air. What I smell is white musk and a certain marine note, which turns a bit masculine on me. Lalique fragrances tend to display this kind of gendered tension between the feminine and masculine, and here it goes from girly to womanly to a bit of masculinity in the base, which makes it much more interesting. There is a wink to the erotic and sensual side in the last hours of its life on the skin. This surprising perfume has a complex development and it may differ from skin to skin. The sillage is discreet but present and it is decently lasting. I bet this blooms best in springtime or even summer. It's not a winter fragrance at all. It may not be my cup of tea, but I am still intrigued by it and will wear it more times just to repeat the aesthetic intellectual pleasure.
RÊVE d'INFINI
Top notes
bergamot, litchi, white roses
Heart notes
jasmine, rose, fruity notes, freesia, peach and cedar
Base notes
vanilla, musk and sandalwood
The distribution of Rêve d'Infini is limited to the Russian market for now and it will be distributed shortly in France, USA, Switzerland and Germany.
The new fragrance from Lalique, Reve d’Infini, is launched in early 2016 as a tribute to femininity and elegance, as well as to the eternal inspiration of the famous glass and jewelry designer Rene Lalique.
The crystal floral composition of this fragrance begins with fresh notes of bergamot, juicy litchi pulp and an absolute of white roses. The combination of jasmine, rose, fruity nectar and freesia, and the duo of peach and cedar, form the heart of the perfume. Vanilla, musk and sandalwood leave their velvety mark on the base. The creation is signed by perfumer Richard Ibanez.
Top notes: bergamot, lychee, white rose Heart: freesia, jasmine, rose, peach, cedar Base: sandalwood, musk, vanilla
The bottle, in Art Deco style, and the box colored in soft pink are decorated with the Ardente motif, a symbol of eternity. The fragrance is available as 30 and 50 ml Eau de Parfum.
Da casa Laliqueeu espero sempre as mais belas coisas. Quando não é o frasco que me deslumbra, é o perfume, ou ambor, por vezes. Lalique é uma daquelas marcas que eu nunca sei como categorizar, pois ela tem o apelo comercial e a distribuição, mas para mim ela parece mais uma marca de nicho por causa das escolhas singulares e por vezes ousadas em seus perfumes. Por exemplo: Perlesnão deixa de ser uma peculiar fragrância de nicho. e o que poderemos dizer da elegante estranheza de Living Lalique? A casa nunca falha em nos surpreender e quando falamos da coleção exclusiva Noir Premier, então essa é puro refinamento e luxo. Após o meu favorito que é o espetacular e ligeiramente ameaçador Élegance Animale, a última edição é Or Intemporel 1888 e, de novo, eis um paradigma das fragrâcias invulgares que esta casa tem lançado, um perfeito exemplo do caráter único dos perfumes Lalique.
“Paris, 1 de Agosto de 1888 é a data de nascimento da casa Lalique. O dia em que René Lalique registou sua marca, feita com suas iniciais e uma espada estilizada, para ser estampada nos designs de ouro produzidos em seu estúdio. Para celebrar a origem do mito, a casa Lalique foi buscar inspiração ao mais valioso dos materiais com Or Intemporel 1888.” - Lalique press release
A Noir Premier Collection é um tributo aos designs de génio feitos por René Lalique e seus sucessores Marc e Marie-Claude Lalique. Os nomes e datas incritos nestes frascos são referências, marcos nesta estória. Símbolos da herança. Os perfumes lá dentro são interpretações contemporâneas destes temas com uma exigência por matérias de alta qualidade e ideias artísticas. Os frascos desta série de fragrâncias são inspirados em dois designs icônicos de René Lalique. Primeiro, o seu primeiro frasco de perfume preto, o modelo “Quaitre Aigles” (Quatro Águias) criado em 1911. Depois os lados transparentes do frasco que são adornados com um motivo de asas que é inspirado no modelo “Cyclamen” desenhado em 1909 para François Coty.
Quatre Aigles, frasco original de René Lalique
Quatre Aigles, frasco para Ambre d'Orsay
Cyclamen, frasco Lalique para François Coty
Eu fiz uma investigação e consegui seguir a inspiração para estes frascos da Noir Premier Collection. O primeiro frasco à esquerda com a tampa com quatro águias e a assinatura ao contrário na aresta da base foi exposto no início de 1912. É um precursor do frasco de Ambre D'Orsay que tem uma tampa com flores e não apresenta a assinatura ao contrário encontrada neste exemplo. A imagem no meio mostra uma variação do primeiro frasco Quatre Aigles da Maison Lalique, usado para Ambre d'Orsay circa 1914. Fonte e imagens: rlalique.com À direita: Cyclamen (1909) frasco de Lalique para françois Coty. Imagem de International Perfume Bottle Association (IPBA)
A série de lindíssimos frascos pretos verticais com luminosos flancos em vidro esculpido ganhou agora um novo estilo, desta vez em ouro. Or Intemporel é assinado pela perfumista Violaine Collas e foi lançado em 2015 na exposição TFWA em Cannes. Concebida para representar a riqueza e luminosidade do ouro como matéria preciosa, esta é uma composição gourmand, mas não é tão doce como se poderia esperar olhando para as notas. Depois de cheirar este perfume e Stendhal Rouge Divin, estou ficando muito interessado no estilo gourmand de Violaine Collas e tentarei uma entrevista com ela, pois este é um verdadeiro talento que ela possui.
Eu não sou muito de fragrâncias doces com are de sobremesas e o tabaco pode ser demasiado doce para o meu gosto, especialmente quando acasalado com a baunilha e o café, tal como aparece na descrição do perfume. Mas fiquem tranquilos, esta é uma história muito diferente em relação a estes acordes. E cheira que é uma delícia.
O tabaco é do mesmo género que se pode cheirar em Lanvin Avant Garde, nem muito doce nem muito esfumaçado, antes um tabaco balsamico sobre uma proeminente base amadeirada (estou cheirando cedramber) e uma onda geral brilhante e dourada que me parece ser baunilha, benjoim, xarope de ácer e um toque de canela. Pode ser o bálsamo de tolu, que possui todas estas facetas. Equilibrando todos estes tons dourados, temos uma poderosa dose de café. Preto. Sem açúcar. Sem adoçantes. Apenas uma explosão de café amargo e forte com um efeito polvoroso. Esta composição resulta num gourmand diferente, inspirado em elementos doces mas que se transforma numa fragrância de âmber/patchouli não comestível com nuances amargas. Rico, balsâmico e extremamente confortável, Or Intemporel 1888 tem um sutil acento animálico que me faz lembrar castóreo e estoraque (poderá ser pedra de África?), e isto lhe dá não só um contraste mais obscuro à inspiração de ouro cintilante como também uma sensação vintage. Este é um belo exercício na representação do ouro (já feita por tantas marcas) com resultados excecionais. Também é uma versão diferente do estilo gourmand e um aroma de sofisticação à prova de bala.
Lalique Or Intemporel 1888 – Noir Premier Collection
Notas de topo: bergamota, cardamomo, noz moscada, pimenta preta
Notas de coração: violeta, café, tabaco
Notas de base: baunilha, bálsamo de tolu, patchouli
From the house of Lalique I can always expect beautiful things. When it's not the bottle that mesmerizes me, it's the juice, or sometimes both. Lalique is one of those brands that I never know how to categorize, for it has the commercial appeal and distribution, but to me it seems more of a niche brand because of the singular and sometimes bold choices they make with their scents. For example: Perles is nothing but a peculiar niche fragrance. And what can we say about the elegant quirkyness ofLiving Lalique? The house never fails to surprise and when we speak of the exclusive Noir Premier collection, well, this is pure refinement and luxury. After the spectacular and slightly menacing favourite of mine, Élegance Animale, the latest edition is Or Intemporel 1888 and again, this is a paradigm of the unusual fragrances this house often releases, a perfect example of the unique character of Lalique perfumes.
“Paris, August 1st 1888 is the date of birth of the house of Lalique. The day when René Lalique registered his hallmark, made up of his initials and a stylized sword, to be stamped on the gold designs produced by his studio. To celebrate its origin myth, the house of Lalique has drawn its inspiration from the most prized of materials with Or Intemporel 1888.” - Lalique press release
The Noir Premier Collection is a tribute to the genious designs made by René Lalique and his successors Marc and Marie-Claude Lalique. The names and dates incribed on these bottles are references, milestones of this story. Symbols of the legacy. The juices inside are contemporary interpretations of these themes with an exigence for high-quality materials and artistic ideas. The bottles for this series of fragrances were inspired by two of René Lalique's iconic designs. First, his very first black perfume bottle, the “Quaitre Aigles” (Four Eagles) model created in 1911. Then the transparent sides of the bottle which are adorned with a wing motif that was inspired by the “Cyclamen” model designed in 1909 for François Coty.
Quatre Aigles original bottle by René Lalique
Quatre Aigles bottle for Ambre d'Orsay
Cyclamen, Lalique bottle for François Coty
I made an investigation and was able to trace back the inspiration for these bottles of the Noir Premier Collection. The first bottle on the left with the four eagles stopper and the upside down signature on the receding base edge was exhibited in early 1912. It is a forerunner of the Ambre D'Orsay bottle that has a floral stopper and lacks the upside down molded signature found on this example. The image in the middle shows a variant of the earlier Maison Lalique bottle Quatre Aigles, used for the Ambre d'Orsay circa 1914. Source and pictures: rlalique.com At the right: Cyclamen (1909) bottle by Lalique for françois Coty. Image from International Perfume Bottle Association (IPBA)
The series of amazing vertical black bottles with luminous flanks in sculpted glass just gained a new style, this time in gold. Or Intemporel is signed by perfumer Violaine Collas and it was launched in 2015 at the TFWA expo in Cannes. Conceived to depict the richness and luminosity of gold as a precious material, this is a gourmand composition, but it's not as sweet as you would expect from looking at the notes. After smelling this one and Stendhal's Rouge Divin, I am becoming interested in the gourmand style of Violaine Collas and I shall try an interview with her, for this is a real talent that she has.
I am usually not into candy sweet fragrances and tobacco can be a bit too sweet for me, especially when paired with vanilla and coffee, like it says in the perfume description. But rest assured, this is a whole different take on these accords. And it smells delicious.
The tobacco is the same kind that I smell in Lanvin's Avant Garde, neither very sweet nor smoky, rather a balmy kind of tobacco over a prominent woody base (I smell cedramber) and an overall glistening golden vibe of what I feel like being vanilla, benzoin, maple syrup and a touch of cinnamon. It can be the tolu balsam, which has all of these facets. Balancing all of these sweet golden hues, we have a powerful dash of coffee. Black. No sugar. No sweeteners added. Just a punch of bitter, strong coffee with a powder effect. This composition turns out to be a different gourmand, one which is inspired by sweet foody elements but transforms into a non-foody amber/patchouli fragrance of bitter nuances. Rich, balmy and extremely comfortable, Or Intemporel 1888 has a subtle animalic undertone with reminds me of castoreum and styrax (could it be africa stone?), and this gives it not only a darker contrast to the sparkling gold inspiration but also a vintage feeling. This is a wonderful exercise on the depiction of gold (already tried and done by so many brands) with exceptional results. It is also a different take on the gourmand style and a scent of bulletproof sophistication.
Lalique Or Intemporel 1888 – Noir Premier Collection
Top notes: bergamot, cardamom, nutmeg, black pepper
Elton John engraves his signature on the base of a sculpture from the new collection.
Photo: Gilles Pernet
The storied Alsace-based crystal brand Lalique, known for its artisanal glassware and an enduring commitment to craftsmanship, has joined forces with the inimitable entertainer Elton John to create a collection of seven crystal sculptures to help raise funds for the Elton John AIDS Foundation.
Presented yesterday afternoon in a white cube gallery space on John’s private estate outside London, against a backdrop of works by Louise Bourgeois, Antony Gormley, and Damien Hirst, the Elton John Music Is Love for Lalique collection is composed of three limited-edition pieces and four one-of-a-kind artworks.
Crystal angel. Photo: Courtesy of Lalique
On sale at Lalique boutiques as of today, the models include a crystal angel ($1,800, available in an edition of 999), a red crystal heart ($1,800, available in an edition of 499), and a clear crystal heart ($1,200, available in an edition of 999). Ten percent of the proceeds from the collection sales will benefit the Elton John AIDS Foundation.
The four unique works, which include special editions of the angel and heart sculptures as well as the stunning Angel Cire Perdue—a larger winged angel playing a lyre crafted in red and white frosted crystal—will be auctioned off by the online auctioneer Paddle8 at the Elton John AIDS Foundation’s annual Academy Awards Viewing Party on February 28, 2016.
Crystal heart. Photo: Courtesy of Lalique
“As a major international brand, it’s not just about publicity—it’s very important for us to give something back to the world around us,” said Lalique chairman and owner Silvio Denz. “This opportunity to work with Elton and his foundation to create something with a truly great benefit, that was simply not something we could pass up. We initially worked with Elton back in 1997 on a small collection of crystal angels. This time we wanted to create something entirely new and unique to bring attention to this important global cause.”
