Hypnotic Poison Dior (1998) por Anick Menardo

Conhecida por seu gênio difícil e suas criações recheadas de criatividade e bom gosto, Annick Menardo está entre as melhores perfumistas do mundo e não é pouco dizer que , quase sempre, o que passa por suas mãos vira clássico. Com a Dior não seria diferente até 2004 ela trabalhou nas versões de Hypnotic Poison e no exclusivo Bois D`argent . 

Hypnotic Poison EDT é, sem dúvida, uma das melhores criações da Dior e , apesar dos seus quase vinte anos de mercado, ainda figura entre os perfumes mais vendidos da grife. A fragrância já sofreu readaptação e as reclamações sobre a longevidade e projeção são muitas porém, a edição de 1998 sempre foi uma perfeição. Intenso, lascivo e sensual, Hypnotic sai com notas de coco que figuram muito bem nas fases de cabeça e coração da fragrância. Junto a elas um outro frutado, mais elegante também se pronuncia na entrada, nele a ameixa e damasco estão bem mais intensas nas versões que figuram na atualidade.  A baunilha é outro componente que fundamental nessa fragrância, ela é cremosa e casa com as amêndoas perfeitamente dando um pegada quase gourmand, Um floral amadeirado segue destacando notas de sândalo perfeitas e detalhes que oscilam entre o pungente aroma de Tuberosa e Jasmim e o delicado toque das rosas. A evolução final conta com um delicioso almíscar e um amadeirado mais seco que ainda conta com os resquícios da baunilha que não deixa o perfume perder a compostura. Vale cada centavo para mulheres que procuram um perfume envolvente no estilo "pega rapaz". Tem personalidade e "nunca" deve ser usado em exagero pois  perde a elegância e fica agressivo e vulgar. 

NOTA CURIOSA :

Annick Menardo nasceu em Cannes, e estudou química orgânica como uma graduação. Ela completou estudos de perfumaria na ISIPCA e depois trabalhou sob perfumista Michel Almairac na criações Aromatiques antes de se juntar Firmenich em 1991. A perfumista tem um amplo histórico cientifico que incluem bioquímica e medicina porém seu maior interesse sempre foi a perfumaria . A orientação de Michel Almayrac, enquanto trabalhava em criações Aromatiques influenciou seu estilo e uma boa parte de suas criações. Annick Menardo também é conhecida em seu trabalho com o escultor Nobi Shioya em sua instalação de arte olfativa onde criou o "perfume escultura 'Anger" . Nobi atribui a inspiração dessa criação a Propria Menardo afirmando era : " porque ela está sempre com raiva."



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Fragrancias criadas por Annick Menardo

Azzaro Twin Women (2009)
Azzarro Visit for Men (2003)
Benetton Funtastic Wild Citrus (2000)
Boucheron Jaipur Pour Homme (1997)
Bvlgari Black (1998)
Cacharel L'Eau d'Eden
Celine Pour Homme (2002)
Cerruti 1881 Edition Blanche Pour Femme (2015)
Charriol Royal White (2013)
Christian Dior Bois d'Argent (2004)
Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison (1998)
Diesel Fuel for Life for Her (2007, with Thierry Wasser)
Diesel Fuel for Life for Him (2007, with Jacques Cavallier)
Diesel Fuel for Life Denim for Her (2011)
Diesel Fuel for Life Denim for Him (2011)
DSquared2 Potion (2011)
DSquared2 Wild (2014, with Daphné Bugey)
Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk (2015)
Escada Loving Bouquet (1999)
Fendi Palazzo (2007, with Thierry Wasser)
Giorgio Armani Armani Attitude (2007, with Olivier Cresp & Alberto Morillas)
Giorgio Armani Emporio Armani City Glam for her & for him (2005, with Olivier Cresp)
Givenchy Xeryus Rouge (1995)
Guerlain Bois d'Armenie (2006)
Hugo Boss Boss (1998)
Jean Paul Gaultier Kokorico (2011, with Olivier Cresp)
Jil Sander Man (2007, with Thierry Wasser)
Kenzo Time for Peace for Lui
Kenzo Vintage Edition (2008)
Lacoste (Red) for men (2004)
Lacoste Style in Play
Lancome Aroma Fit
Lancome Hypnose (2005, with Thierry Wasser)
Lancome Hypnose Sheer (2007, with Thierry Wasser)
Lancome Miracle So Magic (2004)
Le Labo Gaiac 10 (2008)
Le Labo Patchouli 24 (2006)
Lolita Lempicka (1997)
Lolita Lempicka au Masculin (2000)
Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin Eau de Parfum Intense (2015)
Lolita Lempicka Fleur Défendue / Forbidden Flower (2008)
Lolita Lempicka L'Eau en Blanc (2012)
Lolita Lempicka Le Parfum de Lolita Lempicka (2016)
Lolita Lempicka Les Caprices de Lolita (2007)
Montana Blu (2000)
Morgan de Toi for men (with Gerard Anthony)
Naf Naf Expression Naf Naf (2001, with Jean-Pierre Bethouart)
Olfactive Studio Close Up (2016)
Pomellato 67 Artemisia (2014)
Pucci Vivara Variazioni Sabbia 167 (2009)
Salvatore Ferragamo Attimo (2010, with Jean-Pierre Bethouart)
Salvatore Ferragamo Attimo L'Eau Florale (2011, with Jean-Pierre Bethouart)
Starck Paris Peau d'Ailleurs (2016)
Stella Cadente Miss Me (2005)
Yves Rocher Altika (2006)
Yves Rocher Comme une Evidence L'Eau (2011)
Yves Rocher Comme une Evidence - Un jour se lève... (2006)
Yves Rocher Folies de Saisons L'Humeur Nomade en Automne
Yves Rocher Moment de Bonheur (2011)Yves Rocher Moment de Bonheur L'Eau (2014)
Yves Rocher Pur Désir de Mimosa (2005) 
Yves Rocher Purple Lilac / Lilas Mauve (2012)
Yves Rocher Rose Oud (2016)
Yves Saint Laurent Body Kouros (2000)

 

11 Effortlessly Chic Spring Fragrances: The Classics

Here are some suggestions for wearing spring fragrances, in several installments.

Today, I turn to the "effortlessly chic" sub-category in the Classics section. By that I mean that as lighter, fresher perfumes these perfumes tend to dress down a bit, but not overly so. They retain an air of elegance and sophistication about them mixed with a dose of studied nonchalance and casualness.

Why should some perfumes be considered to be particularly appropriate for springtime? Their vernal quality is suggested by their rich, yet still frail floral notes, their freshness and their luminosity bespeaking of the spring equinox and daylight-saving time.

Green notes that are just a bit crunchy also contribute to this feeling of smelling of half-open buds. Springtime scents which are calques of the idea of the season will offer transparent, airy, cool nuances rather than ripe, decaying ones.

When brainstorming about the topic, we had to realize that the house of Guerlain had been particularly committed to offering interpretations of the renewal of nature. Nina Ricci too, although only one of their scents is mentioned in this list.

1- Diorissimo

No list about perfume classics embodying the yearning for spring would be complete without Diorissimo by Dior. Composed by master-perfumer Edmond Roudnitska in 1956, it remains a central reference as the lily-of-the-valley fragrance as it has come to embody the very spirit of spring for generations of wearers.

The scent of Diorissimo is - or used to be - like drinking muguet-flavored Champagne on the pristine empty streets of a clean Paris in the wee hours of the morning listening to the distant sound of party laughters. You feel like you own the city of lights and spring - both. It too could have been called Joy......

2 - Eau de Cologne Impériale by Guerlain

Created ca. 1850 by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain for Empress Eugénie de Montijo the consort of Napoléon III to help calm her frequent migraines, the Eau de Cologne Impériale is an elegant cologne with an aristocratic flair evoking the medicinal and restorative quality of aromatic herbs stripped of their kitchen-herbs pungency. A beautiful, gauzy white-colored Eau de Cologne.

3 - Jicky by Guerlain

Jicky has more body than one would expect for an early demi-saison perfume but it also has that streak of cool blue lavender running through it that is brisk and enchanting. A magical, complex perfume filled with bronze-gold and bluish lights. It was created ca. 1880 by Aimé Guerlain (the official date is 1889, but it was according to some sources issued earlier on). Men adopted it before women did. A favorite of Sean Connery.

4 - Violetta di Parma by Borsari

Like Diorissimo is the lily-of-the-valley fragrance par excellence, Violetta di Parma is the violet perfume of choice for many a connoisseur. It was created in 1870 by Italian monks for Maria Luigia of Austria Duchess of Parma who was absolutely passionate about violets and went to great lengths to achieve the perfect violeta odorata scent. It is a green violet perfume that finer palates will appreciate as it eschews the candied overtones. It evokes a brisk morning walk in a forest releasing its fresh-soil and damp-leaves notes.

5 - Après l'Ondée by Guerlain

This is another example of a white, ethereal and pastel-colored Guerlain. Created in 1906 by Jacques Guerlain, it is meant to evoke the countryside after a rain shower. Exquisitely pure and serene, this is a perfume which retreats itself far from the madding crowd.

6 - Eau de Rochas

Created in 1970 by Nicolas Mamounas, Eau de Rochas remains a distinctive fragrance in a sea of new creations. It oscillates between a classic hesperidic cologne and a light chypre. It is very pristine in feel. It is under-appreciated.

7 - Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron

A floral bouquet which is slightly dissonant and incongruous and for that very reason, chic. Here is not a natural beauty but a cultivated one oozing with the charm of a jolie-laide. A man could pull it off well as Fleurs de Rocaille refuses to be simply pretty. It was created by Ernest Daltroff in 1933. Not to be confused with the more recent Fleur de Rocaille by the same house, in the singular.

8 - L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci

It feels a little bit like a light-hearted rendition of the Sacre du Printemps or a still from Sleeping Beauty by Walt Disney with all the blooms blooming and the little birds twittering and frolicking in the air but it is undeniably and unmistakenly spring when you wear it. It was created by Francis Fabron in 1948. People who are looking for a light carnation fragrance might want to check it out.

9 - Spring Flower by Creed

A springtime perfume which already hints at summer with its fruity green cantaloupe note. Melon, peach, flowers, and sun-kissed skin. Delicate and subtle when the vintage is right (Creed fragrances depend on vintage harvests). It was created in 1951 by Olivier Creed for lovely actress Audrey Hepburn.

10 - Vent Vert by Balmain

Originally created in 1945 by Germaine Cellier, it was re-created in 1990 by Calice Becker. It literally means "Green Wind" and is as green as it gets. For those who feel like taking a sensual roll in the sappy grass of an unmown lawn, with their hair all tangled up.

11 - 1000 by Patou

This is a wonderfully elegant perfume which exudes a paradoxical sense of transparent mystery, like a deep and large lake with clear waters. It composes a bouquet of dewy fragile flowers and sophisticated woods (sandalwood) further refined by touches of rare flowers: sueded iris and exotic osmanthus. It was created in 1972 by master-perfumer Jean Kerléo.

Jaguar Classic Black Masculino Eau de Toilette - O Veloz sedutor

Quando se pensa em Jaguar a imagem de luxo e velocidade vem a cabeça. A linha de perfumes da marca é uma preciosidade, vamos falar de vários deles aqui.
O Classic Black é um dos mais deliciosos e usais dos perfumes da linha. É um oriental-fougère , aqui abro um espaço pra explicar essa família : Orientais: fragrâncias orientais, tem uma nota de âmbar dominante são colocados em um grupo separado devido a seu calor e sensualidade. Este grupo inclui musk, baunilha, madeira e resinas exóticas. 

Fougere: significando Fern em francês, fougere é construída sobre uma base de musgo de carvalho, lavanda e cumarina. É caracterizada por sua afiada, herbáceo, e aroma amadeirado.
Vocês hão de convir que toda vez que você entra em um site de perfumes tem um descrição maravilhosa do perfume e a família. 90% da população não tem ideia do que significa e por isso acabam comprando pelas opiniões e levando muito gato por lebre.

Acredito que o segredo do sucesso deste perfume esteja na mistura perfeita do amadeirado com as especiarias. A descrição tradiconal diz que ele começa com notas adocicadas de frutas. Na verdade isso depende da pele. A projeção inicial é muito rápida e a evolução gera uma mistura entre um leve frutal adocicado com um aroma delicioso de especiarias e o doce aroma do chá preto. logo depois você sente o delicioso e verdejante cheirinho de musgo misturado ao forte e viril sândalo.A fixação é garantida pelas notas de raiz do vetiver e a fava tonka (compartilha algumas das características comuns com o tabaco e âmbar) que casa perfeitamente com o almíscar (cheiro muito ativo e persistente e afrodisíaco).

Trocando tudo isso em miúdos é um perfume atrativo e versátil. Com um grande poder de sedução e realmente delicioso. Não caracterizaria como sofisticado mas remete a homens jovens em carros caros e roupas impecáveis. Casa perfeitamente com jeans e com social. E pode ser usado diariamente sem enjoar.
A ideia de luxo atrelada aos carros, mundialmente conhecidos, faz com que nosso cérebro, imediatamente, ligue a fragrância à sensação de poder e sofisticação. Para melhorar, os frascos costumam ser pesados e bem trabalhados. Em Jaguar Classic Black, o frasco traz a sobriedade do preto com detalhes prateados e tampa com encrave, fazendo uma alusão à aerodinâmica de seus carros. Particularmente, um modelo XJ negro, luxuoso e requintado.
É um daqueles perfumes que você dificilmente vai se arrepender de comprar. O preço também é convidativo varia entre 99,00 e 220,00 reais.
Fixação - Boa ( 4 a 6 horas)
Projeção - Ótimo ( bem percebido pelas pessoas ao seu redor)
Avaliação - ***** 

Navy for Men by Dana (1995)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!

Summary: The bargain fragrance response to the aquatic/sport paradigm of the late 80s and early 90s, Navy for Men (as in the color navy, not the military) celebrates its 20th birthday this year and with good reason: despite the bargain price tag, this modern fougère can fairly stand alongside its designer contemporaries with highlighted notes of mint, lavender and tangerine.

Perfumer: N/A, please tell us in a comment below if you know.

Try this if you like: Lavender, mint, tangerine; 1990s sport scents; classic fougères, citrus aromas.

Pros & Cons: Many folks love to hate this, ascribing words like synthetic, low class, cheap and common. Considering how easy it is to find Navy in dollar stores and apothecaries for about the same price as a Starbucks Frappuccino, some of those terms are apt. However, there is much more here than meets the eye. The bottle and packaging are basic and the fragrance is wholly unoriginal; however as many of its contemporaries have disappeared from production, Navy now stands out as a representation of a bygone genre. Add to that the decent longevity and overall pleasure of the composition, and in my opinion this is a bargain winner not to be missed.

Notes: “Top Notes: Tangerine, Lavender, Sage. Mid Notes: Watermint, Nutmeg, Geranium. Base Notes: Siam Wood, Musk, Sandalwood”—DanaBeauty.com

Reminds me of: Ralph Lauren Polo Sport, Aspen for Men, Creed Green Irish Tweed (heresy!, I know), Patou Voyageur, Davidoff Cool Water, Lanvin L’Homme Sport.

Designer’s Description: “Perfect for the man who values timeless sophistication and personal style. Discover the magnetism of this classic masculine scent. Refreshing citruses and herbs highlight this modern blending of rugged woods and spices. Subtle nuances of leather and clean musk provide long lasting appeal.”—DanaBeauty.com

Number of times tested: Five times over the last two months.

Number of sprays applied for this review: Two sprays to the back of my hand from a 100 ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2015).

Fragrance strength: Cologne

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Although rather linear, I discovered an exciting, airy, aquatic note weaving in and out of the first hour of Navy for Men and indeed there is a very subtle leather/musk accord in the drydown.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) Surprisingly good for a cologne, about four-five hours.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) On the softer side; Navy is perceivable but quickly grows quiet.

Note about the packaging: A blue glass and plastic bottle that recalls the shape ofGuy Laroche’s Drakkar Noir housed in a matching, blue, paper box.

Where can I buy it? A 100 ml Cologne spray is as low as $10 USD on online auction and discount sites.

The Bottom Line: I’ll admit it: I’ve long been a fragrance snob. For years I have been drawn to new and niche and thumbed my nose at drugstore classics and designer dupes. “They are too synthetic,” I thought; “I don’t want to smell like everyone else,” I asserted; and “They’re just plain cheap” I assumed. Somewhere in that 30-year journey I got wise that price tag and designer name did not equal quality of product nor was price or label any guarantee of my satisfaction.

Then something groundbreaking happened: I was sent a set of un-named sample vials, designer mixed with niche and drugstore, whose identities were known only to the sender. To my surprise, I fell in love with Charlie Blue and assumed it to be niche; likewise, I felt that a popular Tom Ford scent was likely a drugstore fragrance. I also somehow mistook Navy for Creed’s Green Irish Tweed (upon first sniff)! Then Charlie fragrances began to pop up on blogs and here at Fragrantica and I became enamored with the idea of saving my money and exploring the best of what I assumed to be the worst, only to find that there was plenty to get excited about under $25 USD, hence this column.

Dana’s Navy for Women (above) and Navy for Men launched while I was in college and many of my peers wore the fragrant duo. I remember on more than one occasion complimenting a female friend on her Navy for Women (an ambery gourmand) and spying bottles of Navy for Men in more than a few dorm rooms alongside Polo Sport (nearly identical), Safari and Stetson. At the time, Bath and Body Works and Victoria’s Secret were just beginning their expansions into affordable fragrance territory and many of us approached Dana and Coty fragrances as affordable alternatives to the expensive designer scents. The mint, lavender, citrus and musk paradigm had arrived and Navy by Dana pretty much nailed it for a fraction of the cost of other scents. True the quality of ingredients here as compared to Creed’s, for example, is indeed noticeable. But at first sniff, there are identifiable similarities and for anyone strapped for cash or unwilling to shell out a car payment in exchange for a bottle of scent, Navy might surprise you.

Ties Image: The Silentist

Cassini for Men by Oleg Cassini (1994)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!

Designer Oleg Cassini, 1956

Summary: A little known gem from the Oleg Cassini label, Cassini for Men is a surprisingly complex and sweet aroma that uniquely highlights guava, chamomile and osmanthus set against a more traditional oriental fougère. Housed in a striking bottle and at bargain prices, Cassini for Men is a throwback to early 90s men’s perfumery.
Perfumer: N/A, please tell us in a comment below if you know.

Try this if you like: Tropical fruit aromas; obscure, off the beaten path fragrances; traditional fougères; basil and chamomile in fragrances.

Pros & Cons: True love since the first time I tested it while living in London ca 1994, Cassini offers flowers without being floral, sweets without being dessert, and woods without being dry. Effectively highlights guava as a fragrance note without being sugary (e.g., Polo Red) and basil without the bitterness (e.g. MPG Baime). Begins to soften much too soon leaving the longevity, though decent, less than ideal.

Notes: “Top notes are chamomile, mandarin orange, osmanthus, basil and brazilian rosewood; middle notes are lavender, jasmine, lemon verbena and geranium; base notes are sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver and incense.”—Fragrantica.com

“Rosewood, guava, white osmanthus, sweet basil, lavender, verbena, chamomile sauvage, and oligoceane.”—Cassiniparfums.com

Reminds me of: Roma Uomo by Biagiotti, Pancaldi, Boss Acqua Elements, Rochas Reflets d’Eau, Lancetti il, Drakkar Noir, Otto Kern Noa Noa.

Designer’s Description: N/A but PLEASE read Lanier’s post on the Cassini for Men Fragrantica page; he provides a compelling overview of Cassini’s life and accomplishments as well as his take on Cassini for Men.

Number of times tested: 100+ times over the last 20 years.

Number of sprays applied for this review: Two sprays to the back of my hand from a 100 ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2006).

Fragrance strength: EDT

Development: (Linear / Average/ Complex): Cassini begins sweet and tangy before softening to reveal its more traditional fougère heart sweetened by a touch of vanilla and anchored with rosewood and a synthetic aquatic.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) 4-6 hours with the fragrance softening considerably around halfway through the development.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Sweet and tangy at first, Cassini begins loud; give it a few minutes and the fragrance relaxes to a typical cloud of aroma, though on the quieter side.

Note about the packaging: There is something kind of “old Hollywood glam” about the transparent glass bottle and blue cap with silver adornments, though the simple blue and silver box doesn’t quite correspond to the magic within.

Where can I buy it? 100 ml EDT tester sprays are as low as $20 USD on online auction and discount sites.

The Bottom Line: Who was Oleg Cassini? Before my 1980s memories of Cassini luggage sets, leather belts and inexpensive wristwatches, Cassini was one of the 20th century’s most successful and glamorous designers, having started his career in the Hollywood of the 1940s after previous success as a tennis player. By the end of his career in 2006, he had worked with movie stars, nearly married Grace Kelly, established a bridal line, and was widely credited for contributing to the development of the “designer label” phenomenon. But unlike other designers of his time, the Cassini name and brand has sadly and slowly disappeared. It would come as no surprise then if you thought that the name sounded familiar but weren’t too sure if perhaps I had simply meant to type "Casino" instead.

Having fallen in love with Biagiotti’s Roma Uomo just around the same time as the launch of Cassini for Men, I was suddenly into all things sweet and vanillic. Whereas Roma Uomo reminds me of an orange creamsicle (frozen fruit juice and ice cream), Cassini might be a guava flavored creamsicle. The beauty of Cassini is that as the scent begins to develop, the tang of the fruit becomes tempered by a lovely blend of vanilla, rosewood, basil and chamomile (all perceptible at various moments) and accented by a classic though tame lavender and vetiver fougère vibe referencing its 80s predecessors like Drakkar Noir. The result, though over 20 years old at this point, is surprisingly relevant in today’s market where sweet and fruity reigns supreme.

And though I keep mentioning fougère, by no means is this a barbershop scent. In fact, though the composition takes a few minutes to evolve, the overall drydown is smooth, lacking any harsh edges. The inclusion of the oligoceane synthetic aquatic is kind of a mystery to me as I get more fruit and rosewood than salty aquatic.  

If you like sweet, want to get a little retro, and appreciate some unique yet subtle nuances (chamomile!), Cassini is a bargain that might surprise you. It’s one of my staples that I never go without and love it as much today at $20 USD as I did twenty years ago at triple that price.
 

Image of Oleg Cassini and Suzy Parker: cabezadelobo

Joy de Jean Patou (1930, 2015)

Sumário: O mundialmente famoso Joy, supostamente o segundo perfume mais vendido de sempre depois de Chanel N^o. 5, é conhecido por muitos como o perfume da avó devido a sua popularidade durante a maior parte do século XX com seu buquê rico de flores e aldeídos. Com cada vez mais materiais sintéticos sendo experimentados em perfumaria, e a compreensão cada vez maior do Ocidente em relação à cultura de fragrâncias do Oriente, poderia Joy, celebrando seu 85º aniversário este ano com o relançamento da EDP, ser usado por um homem?

Perfumista: Henri Alméras

Experimente se gosta de: Indoles, o aroma quase fecal das pétalas de jasmim; civeta, uma nota animálica; intensas rosas turcas ou búlgaras; aldeídos, as moléculas aromáticas responsáveis pelas notas atalcadas e muitas vezes verdes de perfumes como N^o. 5 e L’Air du Temps.

Prós & Contras: Antes de mais, Joy pertence a outra era quando as normas de fragrâncias e a aromatecnologia eram muito diferentes de hoje em dia. Como tal, Joy tem mais em comum com os perfumes do final dos anos 70 e início dos 80 como Antaeus, Jules e Kouros que capitalizaram nos acordes clássicos com civeta, cravo e aldeídos em vez de algo fresco, aquático, gourmand, frutado ou cítrico. Depois, como muitos de nós já cheiraram isto de certeza em algum ponto de nossas vidas usado por uma mulher mais velha, as associações podem ser fortes (por exemplo, Shalimar é o cheiro de minha mãe, independentemente de quantas vezes eu já o tenha tentado usar).

Mas no despertar de gostos renovados por florais masculinos (como Burberry Brit for Men, Fleur du Mâle, etc.) e a popularidade global de fragrâncias naseadas no oud, Joy parece surpreendentemente relevante. Sim, os aldeídos são fortes, a civeta é suja, e o jasmim é, bom, um pouco fecal, mas será que estes extremos não se adequam ao homem moderno, avant garde? Não serão estes temas aromáticos mais relevantes ao mundo em expansão do nicho e da perfumaria moderna sem consideração pelo gênero? Há algo de intrigante acerca de Joy na minha pele. Como o misterioso carro chegando todas as noites no filme de Woody Allen Midnight in Paris, Joy tem o poder de transportar-nos a outra época.

Notas: “Intensas e luxuriantes com uma atraente composição floral, Joy foi criado por Henri Alméras, que tornou suas notas de topo irresistivelmente maravilhosas. A composição começa com uma fragrante tuberosa, uma rosa luxuriante, flor de ylang-ylang, aldeídos, uma pera doce de fazer água na boca e notas verdes. O coração bate apaixonadamente em notas puras e docemente frescas de jasmim, com uma sedutora, balsamicamente especiada e obscurecida raiz de íris. A base tem um sensual almíscar, um quente, leitoso e atalcado sândalo, com tons ligeiros almiscarados de civeta.”— Fragrantica.com

Me faz lembrar: Iquitos de Alain Delon, Chanel N^o. 5, L’Air du Temps, Lutens A la Nuit, Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie, YSL Kouros, Amouage Gold pour Homme

Descrição do designer: “Em 1930, no máximo da depressão económica global, Jean Patou deu largas a sua natural joie de vivre e enviou a 250 dos seus melhores clientes americanos um frasco de um perfume raro, único e improvável, uma avalanche de rosa de Maio e jasmim de Grasse, o presente mais luxuoso, precioso e reconfortante que se poderia imaginar. E assim nasceu Joy. Cada onça deste sutil buquê floral, a perfeita simbiose de rosa e jasmim, requeria 10,600 flores de jasmim e vinte e oito dezenas de rosas. Na verdade 'o perfume mais caro do mundo,' Joy era uma fragrância excepcional que envolvia cada mulher, loira, morena ou ruiva, numa núvem de sofisticação e prestígio. Sempre moderno, Joy, o perfume assinatura da casa Patou, anuncia os perfumes do amanhã.”—JeanPatou.com

Número de vezes que testei: 20+ nos últimos 25 anos.

Número de vaporizações aplicadas para esta resenha: Duas nas costas da mão a partir de uma EDP recentemente relançada num frasco enviado pela Patou.

Força da fragrância: Eau de Parfum

Desenvolvimento: (Linear / Médio / Complexo) Joy é efervescente no topo com talco e sujidade, uma rica abertura terrosa para saudar os primeiros botões das rosas de Verão. As rosas florescem entrelaçadas em galhos de jasmim noturno ainda por abrir. Esta é uma interessante transição desde os tons modernes, verdes, metálicos de um jardim de rosas turcas durante uma tempestade. À medida que os florais abrem e a fragrância se move para o coração, o indólico jasmim domina a rosa e outros numerosos acentos florais como a tuberosa, o cravo e o ylang que espreitam sutilmente. À medida que a sinfonia chega ao final, um leve e doce âmbar carrega os tons florais. Gostaria de ter um pouco mais de força nesta altura; madeiras mais fortes ou notas ambaradas levariam a fragrância mais longe.

Joy hoje é vaseado na abertura opulenta pois o final é bem sutil em minha opinião. Este é um aroma para tempo frio e eu imagino que a riqueza dos aldeídos e florais seja demasiadamente forte com calor.

Longevidade: (Curta / Média / Longa) Não tão longa como eu esperava que fosse, e sendo uma EDP: aproximadamente 4-6 horas.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) The opening is a bit overwhelming but after hour two, I was surprised that I had to really sniff my hand to perceive it.

Nota sobre a embalagem: O clássico, rectangular, translúcido frasco de vidro com adornos e tampa dourados se mantêm. Joy vem numa caixa branca de papel.

Onde posso comprar? Disponível em balcões Patou em todo o mundo; 30ml custam $110 USD.

Conclusão: Muitos aficionados sérios de fragrâncias têm buscado Joy para experienciar a história. Mas como é usar de fato a fragrância atualmente? Será verdadeiramente alegre?

Minha vizinha achou que era “legal” mas “confusa” enquanto meu companheiro simplesmente disse “Mmmmmmm;” acho que ele estava tentando ser educado. Ele sugeriu que o fazia lembrar sua ama. Quando eu o usei, não podia deixar de pensar na bomba de civeta e musgo de carvalho que é Kouros de Yves Saint Laurent (simplesmente não o consigo usar) e as ricas flores de Fleurs de Bulgarie de Creed (usei mas achei a rosa simplesmente exagerada para meu palato amante de baunilha); era como se os dois se tivessem fundido.

Perguntei a mim próprio se me sentia confortável com a fragrância e concluí que de fato, não. Mas isto não é porque a fragrância se tenha desenvolvido como um perfume de “mulher”, antes porque ela representa um tipo de perfume que eu não acho atraente—o floral aldeídico. Acho que esta família representa o “perfume” para mim como eu o relembro em meus primeiros dias como explorador de aromas, vaporizando frascos de minhas tias e experimentando nos balcões de fragrâncias Burdines e Jordan Marsh. Prefiro aromas gourmand, orientais e aquáticos, por isso Joy não é minha praia.

É “feminino?” Esta palavra será algo a lutar contra nestas resenhas. Pelos padrões atuais, não. Se eu considerar os perfumes no topo de vendas dos últimos vinte anos (Issey, Stella, Angel, Flowerbomb, Tommy Girl, Beyond Paradise, etc.), então Joy não é nem bonitinho, nem delicioso. Se, contudo, examinarmos uma gama mais alargada de perfumaria, incluindo casas como Sisley, YSL do início dos anos 2000, eÉtat Libre, então sim; Joy pode ser intoxicante, abafado e unicamente exótico.

É “masculino?” Em muitos padrões da perfumaria, sim. Tenho gostade de conhecer os óleos corporais da Índia, os attars do Dubai e os sintéticos vanguardistas da Europa e EUA. Os homens usam rosas e jasmim. Quando combinado com seus aspetos animálicos, Joy se afasta ainda mais do “bonitinho.”

Minha conclusão é que os homens inteligentes que são de mente aberta ou procuram algo completamente diferente podem achar Joy intrigante. Consigo até ver algums a acharem que é “gótico.” Quanto a mim, manter-me-ei fiel ao meu frasco de 1000, lançado 40 anos depois. Parece ser uma ponte entre Joy e Patou Homme e como tal, oferece o melhor de dois mundos.

Gender Bender: Kenzo Homme (…pour une Femme) (1984)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of fragrance reviews that asks, “Can a guy pull off a women’s perfume?” Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!

Hello and welcome to my new column here at Fragrantica: “Gender Bender”, an exploration of aroma, gender and scented freedom. Though by no means do I prescribe to fragrance having a gender, sociocultural stereotypes about masculinity often prevail at the fragrance counter. Join me as I explore some of the 20th century’s masterpieces of perfumery in my quest to address the familiar question, “Can a man successfully wear a women’s perfume?”

Summary: My favorite Kenzo fragrance is still the mossy, green, wet bamboo forest chypre that I shared with one of my best teen gal pals—1991's original, Kenzo pour Homme. Having already looked at three fragrances marketed to women, Patou Joy,Revlon Ciara and Chanel Coco, we’ll now turn our attention to fragrances marketed for men … and the women that wear them.

Perfumer: Christian Mathieu

Try this if you like: Dry greens such as vetiver, fir and pine; aquatic and ozonic scents (think calone); sandalwood and cucumber as perfume notes; scents that are neither gourmand nor fruity; chypres as a genre; tea scents.

Pros & Cons: For those who enjoy dry scents such as Ivoire de Balmain, Paloma Picasso, Bottega Veneta, the current Balenciaga (2008), or in the men’s genre fragrances like Cacharel pour Homme, Guerlain Vetiver, Prada Luna Rossa, or Spazio Krizia Uomo. The added “sea accords” (calone) with the dry greens create a true to life smoky green tea aroma. I always think I smell cucumber although none is listed, again might be the calone. The lack of sweetness and focus on “fresh” tones will be a revelation to many who are tired of the sweet candy, fruity, and gourmand paradigms at the women’s counter. Might come off a bit too barber shop for some.

Notes: “Top notes are mahogany, sage, bergamot, lemon and sea notes; middle notes are nutmeg, carnation, juniper berries, orris root, peach, jasmine, caraway, lily-of-the-valley, rose and pine; base notes are sandalwood, amber, musk, balsam fir, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar and labdanum.”—Fragrantica.com

Reminds me of: Diptyque Eau de Lierre, Aliage Sport by Estee Lauder, Clinique Wrappings, Krizia Uomo, New West Skinscent for Her, Acqua di Gio for Men, CK Escape for Men, Bvlgari Thé Vert, Creed Erolfa, Iceberg Homme (original), Bobbi by Bobbi Brown, Avon Mark Earth.

Designer’s Description: “Fragrance creator recognizable among all, forerunner fragrance, unique and timeless KENZO HOMME is a classic. Built around the water and blue bamboo, it is inspired by the world and makes it closer to distant horizons. An original fragrance, woody and nautical, timeless. Watery tones combine with floral sea spray for immediate freshness ... prolonged by a solar accord where sage is warmed up by the spicy accents of nutmeg and clove ... before the strength of sensual woods is revealed, carried along by the harmony between oak moss, vetiver and velvety sandalwood. THE DESIGN: The bamboo shoot, a favourite Kenzo men emblem, takes on bluey-grey hue enlivened by a dash of red to carry this fresh invigorating fragrance."—KenzoParfums.com

Number of times tested: 100+ over the last 24 years.

Number of sprays applied for this review: Two sprays to the back of hand from a current bottle I purchased online (2015).

Fragrance strength: Eau de Toilette

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) Despite the massive list of notes, I find Kenzo pour Homme to be rather linear in its overall effect; the composition washes over its wearer like the aroma of rain on the breeze. In fact, I oftentimes smell just that.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) I agree that earlier formulations had a greater depth, but my current EDP lasts a good 8-10 hrs on me with only minor application.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) I think earlier formulations had a greater depth, but my current EDT lasts a good 4-6 hrs on me with a little extra application.

Note about the packaging: Vintage Kenzo pour Homme was a carefully sculpted, glass bamboo branch housed in a striking gray and white box printed with a woodblock motif. Nowadays it is a simplified, smooth bamboo branch with inset leaf cuts and housed in a blue and white carton with a photograph of bamboo in blue.

Where can I buy it? Found online at retail $83 USD for a 3.4 oz EDT spray and at discount sites for less than half of that.

The Bottom Line: Born in a time when the aquatic was the new rage, Kenzo pour Homme, from the Japanese turned Parisian designer’s label of the same name, offered something decidedly different in the genre, like a step in time betweenAcqua di Genova and Acqua di Gio. As such, there is little of the modern sweetness but a lot of the old school. However, it is exactly this touch of modern that unlike similar scents of its time, e.g. Cerruti’s 1881, allows it to be still relevant today and completely without gender connotations.

When first intrigued, my friend Alyson and I shared an original mini back in high school. At times I found it just a little too sharp and dry as compared to my other favorites of that time, my CK Eternity and her Cacharel Lou Lou. On Alyson’s, skin however, Kenzo Homme became greener and earthier and she loved the Japanese provenance and references. So when I got about half way through my mini, on it went to her. And so we passed fragrances up and back over the years, and still do today.

With summer approaching in the Northern Hemisphere (I’m in DC), I find that nothing in my wardrobe quite speaks the same language as Kenzo pour Homme: dry, green, fresh, aquatic and airy. No matter how many times I approach fragrances marketed to women in the similar genre, I find them to be overly sweet or fruity…or reliant on violet leaf.” The packaging is pretty unique, the price is rather affordable, and at least here in the USA, the fragrance isn’t exactly ubiquitous. Overall, I think it will make a fine gift for Alyson when she comes to visit.