Cassini for Men by Oleg Cassini (1994)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!

Designer Oleg Cassini, 1956

Summary: A little known gem from the Oleg Cassini label, Cassini for Men is a surprisingly complex and sweet aroma that uniquely highlights guava, chamomile and osmanthus set against a more traditional oriental fougère. Housed in a striking bottle and at bargain prices, Cassini for Men is a throwback to early 90s men’s perfumery.
Perfumer: N/A, please tell us in a comment below if you know.

Try this if you like: Tropical fruit aromas; obscure, off the beaten path fragrances; traditional fougères; basil and chamomile in fragrances.

Pros & Cons: True love since the first time I tested it while living in London ca 1994, Cassini offers flowers without being floral, sweets without being dessert, and woods without being dry. Effectively highlights guava as a fragrance note without being sugary (e.g., Polo Red) and basil without the bitterness (e.g. MPG Baime). Begins to soften much too soon leaving the longevity, though decent, less than ideal.

Notes: “Top notes are chamomile, mandarin orange, osmanthus, basil and brazilian rosewood; middle notes are lavender, jasmine, lemon verbena and geranium; base notes are sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver and incense.”—Fragrantica.com

“Rosewood, guava, white osmanthus, sweet basil, lavender, verbena, chamomile sauvage, and oligoceane.”—Cassiniparfums.com

Reminds me of: Roma Uomo by Biagiotti, Pancaldi, Boss Acqua Elements, Rochas Reflets d’Eau, Lancetti il, Drakkar Noir, Otto Kern Noa Noa.

Designer’s Description: N/A but PLEASE read Lanier’s post on the Cassini for Men Fragrantica page; he provides a compelling overview of Cassini’s life and accomplishments as well as his take on Cassini for Men.

Number of times tested: 100+ times over the last 20 years.

Number of sprays applied for this review: Two sprays to the back of my hand from a 100 ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2006).

Fragrance strength: EDT

Development: (Linear / Average/ Complex): Cassini begins sweet and tangy before softening to reveal its more traditional fougère heart sweetened by a touch of vanilla and anchored with rosewood and a synthetic aquatic.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) 4-6 hours with the fragrance softening considerably around halfway through the development.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Sweet and tangy at first, Cassini begins loud; give it a few minutes and the fragrance relaxes to a typical cloud of aroma, though on the quieter side.

Note about the packaging: There is something kind of “old Hollywood glam” about the transparent glass bottle and blue cap with silver adornments, though the simple blue and silver box doesn’t quite correspond to the magic within.

Where can I buy it? 100 ml EDT tester sprays are as low as $20 USD on online auction and discount sites.

The Bottom Line: Who was Oleg Cassini? Before my 1980s memories of Cassini luggage sets, leather belts and inexpensive wristwatches, Cassini was one of the 20th century’s most successful and glamorous designers, having started his career in the Hollywood of the 1940s after previous success as a tennis player. By the end of his career in 2006, he had worked with movie stars, nearly married Grace Kelly, established a bridal line, and was widely credited for contributing to the development of the “designer label” phenomenon. But unlike other designers of his time, the Cassini name and brand has sadly and slowly disappeared. It would come as no surprise then if you thought that the name sounded familiar but weren’t too sure if perhaps I had simply meant to type "Casino" instead.

Having fallen in love with Biagiotti’s Roma Uomo just around the same time as the launch of Cassini for Men, I was suddenly into all things sweet and vanillic. Whereas Roma Uomo reminds me of an orange creamsicle (frozen fruit juice and ice cream), Cassini might be a guava flavored creamsicle. The beauty of Cassini is that as the scent begins to develop, the tang of the fruit becomes tempered by a lovely blend of vanilla, rosewood, basil and chamomile (all perceptible at various moments) and accented by a classic though tame lavender and vetiver fougère vibe referencing its 80s predecessors like Drakkar Noir. The result, though over 20 years old at this point, is surprisingly relevant in today’s market where sweet and fruity reigns supreme.

And though I keep mentioning fougère, by no means is this a barbershop scent. In fact, though the composition takes a few minutes to evolve, the overall drydown is smooth, lacking any harsh edges. The inclusion of the oligoceane synthetic aquatic is kind of a mystery to me as I get more fruit and rosewood than salty aquatic.  

If you like sweet, want to get a little retro, and appreciate some unique yet subtle nuances (chamomile!), Cassini is a bargain that might surprise you. It’s one of my staples that I never go without and love it as much today at $20 USD as I did twenty years ago at triple that price.
 

Image of Oleg Cassini and Suzy Parker: cabezadelobo