As fragrânciasAlexander McQueen estão de volta ao mercado sob a nova licença da P&G Prestigee conduzidas pela diretora criativa Sarah Burton. McQueen Parfum, um luxuoso e intoxicante aroma de flores noturnas, foi apresentado em Março deste ano numa intensa concentração de puro perfume em frascos de 50 ml, pelo preço de 350 Euros.
McQueen Eau de Parfum é uma versão mais leve, mais atalcada e mais acessível da nova fragrância, disponível no final de Julho de 2016 no Selfridges e disponível em todo o mundo a partir de Setembro. As flores narcóticas de tuberosa, jasmim e ylang-ylang, que dominam o coração da composição, são refrescadas por acordes especiados de cravo-da-índia, pimenta rosa e preta, numa base amadeirada de vetiver.
“Inspirado no eterno frescor das flores noturnas após o dia ter passado, AMQ McQueen eau de parfum casa um espírito vintage com a arquitetura moderna de Alexander McQueen. A arte centra-se em torno da preciosa essência de três flores noturnas...”
Notas de topo: cravo-da-índia, pimenta preta, pimenta rosa Coração: tuberosa, jasmim, ylang-ylang Base: vetiver
McQueen Eau de Parfum está disponível em quantidades de 30, 50 e 75 ml por preços que vão de 80 a 140 Euros.
Maartje Verhoef para McQueen Parfum por Paolo Roversi (na floresta de Fontainebleau)
Alexander McQueen tem nos provocado com algumas alusões acerca da nova fragrância desde há algum tempo: eles têm partilhado informação sobre ingredientes em seu website e até contaram os dias até seu lançamento. Agora podemos finalmente falar sobre este misterioso McQueen Parfum que está disponível no website oficial.
De acordo com os criadores do perfume, "McQueen Parfum é para a mulher que floresce no escuro." A composição é construída em torno de três sedutoras flores noturnas: Jasmim Sambac, Tuberosa e Ylang Ylang.
"O Jasmim Sambac é a essência do poder e do romance. A flor abre ao luar, exsudando um doce e complexo aroma até ao amanhecer. A tuberosa é o quente e intoxicante coração da sedução. Um raro e profundo extrato, ele é tão real como proibido. O Ylang Ylang é o misterioso aroma da manhã perfeita. Mais fragrante aos primeiros raios de sol, suas exóticas flores amarelas são potentes com uma sensação de renovação e transformação. "
As notas adicionais no topo incluem cravinho-da-índia, pimenta preta e rosa, assim como vetiver no fundo.
A apresentação do é realmente bela:
McQueen Parfum teaser:
Pessoalmente, sinto que há uma falta de fragrâncias femininas poderosas dos designers mais conhecidos no mercado. Saúdo o lançamento de uma potencialmente bela fragrância de flores brancas!
McQueen Parfum 50ml custa $395 (com oferta dos portes de entrega) no website oficial. Também o pode encontrar no Harrods por 350 Euros, ou numa das lojas PG Prestige Beauty em Londres, Paris ou Mónaco. Este verão aparecerá uma Eau de Parfum de mais baixo preço e com uma distribuição mais alargada.
Maartje Verhoef for McQueen Parfum by Paolo Roversi (in the forest of Fontainebleau)
Alexander McQueen has teased us with some allusions about the new fragrance for already quite a while: they have been sharing information about ingredients on their website and even counting days till its launch. Now we can finally speak about this mysterious McQueen Parfum which is available on the official website for purchase.
According to the perfume creators, "McQueen Parfum is for the woman who blooms in the dark." The composition is built around three seductive night blooming flowers: Jasmine Sambac, Tuberose and Ylang Ylang.
"Sambac Jasmine is the essence of power and romance. The flower opens under the moon, exuding a sweet and complex aroma until the morning. Tuberose is the warm, intoxicating heart of seduction. A rare and deep extract, it is both regal and forbidden. Ylang Ylang is the mysterious scent of a perfect morning. Most fragrant at first light, its exotic, yellow flowers are potent with a sense of renewal and transformation. "
Additional notes in the top feature clove, pink and black pepper, as well as vetiver in the background.
The perfume presentation is beautiful indeed:
McQueen Parfum teaser:
Personally, I feel there is a lack of powerful, feminine fragrances from known designers on the market. I salute the launch of a potentially beautiful, white floral!
McQueen Parfum 50ml is offered for $395 (with complimentary standard delivery) on the official website. You can also find it in Harrods for 350 Euros, or in one of PG Prestige Beauty flagships in London, Paris or Monaco. This summer a low-priced Eau de Parfum will appear in a wider distribution.
McQueen has created a unique scent, one that gives strength to your imagination. It is made from the precious essence of three night-blooming flowers, a parfum that unfolds the mysterious power in you. Uniquely McQueen.
The notes include jasmine, tuberose and ylang ylang; the gold-feathered bottle is described as "a poem in glass".
I will update with sizes and concentration when I can. (And if you missed the video, it is here.)
McQueen Parfum por Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen vai lançar McQueen Parfum , uma nova fragrância para mulheres , no próximo mês . É o primeiro lançamento da marca desde 2007 de MyQueen Light Mist. McQueen faleceu em 2010 .
McQueen criou um aroma único , que dá força à sua imaginação. É feito a partir da preciosa essência de três flores noturnas, sendo um perfume que se desenrola o misterioso poder em você. Totalmente McQueen .
As notas incluem jasmim, tuberosa e ylang ylang ; o frasco é adornado por penas douradas (imitando ouro) é foi descrito como " um poema de vidro."
o vídeo da propaganda - it is here.
As usual I’ve a bit of a hard time with fragrances known for being “skanky”, “dirty”, “animalic” and in broader terms, “challenging”. Because they never really seem so to me. And this is the case of Kingdom, too. It’s a fantastic fragrance, that’s for sure, but I get really nothing dirty or skanky here. Either I’m too used to live in the dirt myself, or have dated particularly clean people, because I get really no smell of sweat or “ladies’ parts” (let alone “man’s crotches”) here, or whatever other kinky stuff. Kingdom seems to me basically a complex, yet actually surprisingly mannered blend revolving around notes of rose, sandalwood, musk and cumin with a dark ambery-mossy base accord, and a silky frame of whiter floral notes. Surely not a light scent, and I see how a hefty dose of rose combined with an equally generous dose of cumin on a thick load of musk and woods can result into something “carnal”, alluring, almost intoxicating, but it doesn’t really seem anything particularly “skanky” or challenging to wear to me. It’s just more very vibrant, warm, refined and sensual, surely much “human” and somehow “carnal”, but not exactly dirty to me. Also as I said, it seems actually quite more mannered and smooth than I thought – not a “bomb”, really. It’s surely rich and deep, but not loud or more powerful than many others. It’s very velvety actually. Most vintage chypres are way more dirty, loud and challenging than this.
Anyway, aside from the fact it smells truly good, absolutely quality and surprisingly versatile (not sure why but in some way, this reminds me of a rose-spicy version of Yohji Homme, with a touch of something androgynous), the reason why I really like Kingdom and consider it a totally worthy gem is because of its charming complexity. That kind of intricated complexity that presents you a very harmonic, balanced, perfectly consistent blend that at first seems almost comprising only a small bunch of notes... until you get captured into it, and thrown among the myriad of nuances it has. And it’s like in a well-written poem – everything is in the perfect place, with a perfect timing. You don’t even have to pay that attention actually; you can wear it and forget about it, it will all come to you. Eventually you’ll get whiffs and echoes of carnation, amber, mossy notes, gentle powdery-floral notes, hard spices, even something resembling to silky orange blossoms (I guess the top citrus-neroli notes combined with the “whiter/softer” side of musk), just as if you’re wearing a half dozen of different scents, with an astounding clarity even in the tiniest, most ephemeral details. And yet, you’re always wearing just this one. It’s a peculiar effect some scents have – to release “minor” notes and nuances erratically during their evolution, and yet to keep their, say, “main structure”. I mean, it’s not that it changes or evolves dramatically – ironically it doesn’t that much. A pretty linear scent, in fact. But it has this cinematic effect of releasing coming-and-going nuances throughout its evolution, behind the main consistent structure of rose-cumin-sandalwood-musk, which makes wearing Kingdom a captivating, vibrant, extremely fulfilling experience. And anyway it smells just great, deep and classy, it lasts long without being obtrusive or challenging. Total quality. Prices today are really crazy for this, but you wouldn’t probably regret the purchase – even just to keep it as a reference collector’s item (or a beautiful piece of design... I mean, look at that bottle!).
Discussing the headpieces he created for the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum, hairstylist Guido Palau talks to Vogue beauty and health director Nicola Moulton about Alexander McQueen's own vision of beauty.
McQueen's spring/summer 2010 Plato's Atlantis show
Picture credit: FirstVIEW
Nets worn over the hair at McQueen's spring/summer 2009 show
Picture credit: Firstview/VOGUE.COM
When did you start working with Alexander McQueen?
"I first met him in 1995 or 1996. We had a meeting in Patisserie Valerie. He asked me to do his show and I couldn't do it. Then I did a few shows, but it was in the early 2000s that I started doing them all the time."
The shows often challenged conventional ideas of beauty. How did you arrive at the looks?
"I think Lee didn't have any boundaries with beauty. It wasn't wrapped in any conventional package. When he was putting references together for the shows, I think he liked to challenge himself, and provoke himself visually, as well as others."
RELATED GALLERYFIRST LOOK: MCQUEEN'S SAVAGE BEAUTY
Did you draw on any of those looks as inspiration for the exhibition?
"A lot of people thought the masks were originally used in runway shows but they were all made especially for the exhibition. I wanted to try and evoke what I think of as being his idea of beauty. I suppose having worked with him on so many shows over the years; I know the things that really made him tick: tribalism, fetishism, Victoriana, and a very powerful portrayal of women… I think sometimes people misread his idea about beauty. He was surrounded by very opinionated, very strong women, which was something he loved. I think he was actually more comfortable around women than men. For him, when it came to beauty, the stronger the better."
How did you decide on the idea of masks?
"The idea of hair on mannequins seemed a bit clichéd somehow, and not able to give a very clean line. As soon as I thought of the idea of headpieces instead, it seemed to make sense. Sometimes the idea of a headpiece was to bring a room together, to work with the clothes, then other times it was to throw the clothes off, to juxtapose them with a different idea."
RELATED GALLERYV&A ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: SAVAGE BEAUTY OPENING GALA
How did you make them?
"We had to make a lot of them by hand. A friend of a friend introduced me to a guy called Desi Santiago, who knows all these incredible craftsmen and artisans in and around New York City. He helps me find the right people for each material. I've worked with him ever since.
Talk us through the head treatments you made.
"The metallic studded headpieces took me and my assistants about three days to do each one. I'd seen the outfits with the tartan fabrics and thought I wanted to bring something a bit punk to it, I didn't want to do anything too classic. I also wanted something very dark, which is where the leather masks came from. I used the zip to create a "smile" so they look a bit sinister… Lee always had a very dark, but also quite whimsical way of looking at things and those are trying to express that. For the ones made out of hair, we sewed hair pieces onto masks and then they were cut into that very precise, blunt shape in situ on the models. And those silver points coming out the top are actually butt plugs - although they look kind of weirdly traditional in this context."
What do you think Lee McQueen would have made of the exhibition?
"Very few people's work would stand up to this level of scrutiny. Maybe a couple of pieces, but to see this many is so incredibly impressive. I think people who are like him, an artist, have to push the boundaries… it's kind of what they're there for. I think that's what I learned from him really. You can't just always do ideas people find acceptable, otherwise things never progress."
Guido Palau is Redken's global ambassador. Alexander McQueen: Savage
Maartje Verhoef para McQueen Parfum por Paolo Roversi (na floresta de Fontainebleau)
