Five Gems From Ajmal

by: Miguel Matos

After my first article where I explained how AJMAL got me into oud, I decided to further explore this Arabian brand. So, when I was preparing my visit to Esxence, I asked the brand to send me samples of another group of fragrances that I found interesting to explore after looking at their official website. I already knew that they make gorgeous and luxurious scents and bottles, but I was in for a surprise this time. I have found love in five other creations by Ajmal.

I seem to be mesmerized especially by their oils, attars, mukhallats and dahn al ouds. Their eau de parfums in western style are not my cup of tea. So, lovers of intense, unusual perfumes with a taste of the orient, please do not overlook these offerings. They are mindblowing, but a word of caution: they can also change your perception of scent in a way that you can never go back.

DAHN AL OUDH AL NUWAYRA

“Al Nuwayra, a delicate blend of pure Indian and Cambodi Oudh, shines bright amongst young individuals that adore oriental creations. Crafted for a slightly younger audience, the fragrance embodies the rich heritage of the region through its pure and dignified notes.” - AJMAL

This is one of the less expensive Dahn al Oudhs in the Ajmal line but it doesn't smell cheap at all. It is a blend of different oud oils. It's rich and enveloping with a beastly sensuality that you can only appreciate if you love animalics and if it is not the first time that you smell a real oud made in the United Arab Emirates. This is the real stuff, not the European fantasy of oud that niche brands are trying to smolder us in. Leathery and spicy, this thick dark oil comes in a small crystal bottle that will last you for years. You only need half a drop to be perfumed with a cloud of exotic scent. It is smoky, very balsamic, woody and it has a touch of spice to boost it up and expand the sillage. It is not the most challenging oud, but you will find it strange if you have just arrived to the original Middle Eastern brands.

BAKHOOR KHAS

“A fragrance designed to reflect Oudhy notes, Bakhoor Khas is an oriental concentrate that reflects traditional notes that appeal to individuals looking for deep woody and naturally aromatic essences. This product is specifically crafted for individuals who are regular users of Dahn Al Oudh.” - AJMAL

A deep, thick, funky oud like it should be, Bakhoor Khas is not for the faint of heart. It has the infamous roquefort cheese bite that some ouds can have at first sniff. Then it turns softer in some minutes. It becomes more and more balsamic and yes, a bit medicinal. Whereas Dahn Al Oudh Al Nuwayra was about the horse's warm skin, this is more about the barn where the horse is kept. So, animalic to the bone and dense as oud can be. Along with the development of the fragrance, wonderful old wood accords come out and a touch of sweetness and cream comes along, reminding me of sandalwood and varnish. For a fraction of the price that you can pay for a synthetic oud, this is the real thing with all of the challenging notes but also with the incredible punch in the gut that oud can give you. And I write this in the best of ways. But I understand that for a European or American nose that is not accostumed to smelling an oud attar, this may be almost unbearable. Well I can only tell you that oud is an acquired taste and after you educate yourself in it you may become hooked forever. So, my advice is: try this only if you are already initiated in oud.

MUKHALLAT DAHN AL OUDH MOATTAQ

“Mukhallat Dahn Al Oudh Moattaq is presented as one of the most exclusive perfumes among oriental creations. It is a concoction created around a body of Dahn Al Oudh. The top note carries rich Woody notes in harmony with pure Turkish Rose oil and a blend of exotic Indian Herbs. The heart exudes Ambery and Woody feel with the base culminating in Musky-Powdery, soft-animalic and Rosy notes. Presented in a hand-cut crystal bottle Mukhallat Moattaq is truly a connoisseurs’ collection.” - AJMAL

It is absolutely impossible to talk about this fragrance without mentioning the extremely exquisite package it comes in. I mean, Ajmal is an expert in producing amazing bottles and boxes, but in this case the brand exceeded itself. It's just a parade of opulence. There is a nice brown cardboard box, and inside it there is a brown plastic case that seems like a vault for an expensive jewel. When you open it, you have one of the richest crystal bottles that I have seen. Inside this heavy and extravagant flacon, we have a composition of oriental notes that is enchanting and elegant. This is not one of the heaviest scents in the oils collection of Ajmal. In fact it is floral, spicy and woody and all of these accords gravitate around an anchor of oud.

A fruity, jammy rose is the star as you smear the oil on your skin. It comes with the backup of jasmine and sandalwood. It's sweet, tender, velvety and cheerful. Amber drenches the petals in further caramelised joy. There is a feeling of lush honey dripping on fruits and flowers as they melt into the oud accord of soft nature. This is a very rich and complex concoction that leaves me dreaming and wandering about all the materials Ajmal has put inside it. A warm embrace of dark musk rounds the composition as it unrolls. Then the rose comes again from the fruity background and shines brightly, always in the company of gentle woods and caressing resins. It's a jewel, indeed. And it's a more delicate scent that will not overwhelm you if you apply it wisely. It is calmer than most of the other Mukhallats and Attars. In the end what I smell is an exotic woody base with a carnal touch of purring animalics.

ALF LAIL O LAIL

“Uniting deep-rooted traditions with modern times, Alf Lail O Lail Eau de Parfum, comprises Spicy and Smoky notes which evolve into a menagerie of Floral elements, complemented by the lingering effect of Musky and Woody notes. Equally as enchanting as the fragrance and in continuation of the ‘1001 Arabian Nights’ theme, this concentrated perfume oil is encased in an exquisitely crafted bottle resembling a magic lamp. The matt-gold finish of the casing and the silver cap add to the charm of the authentic-look Arabian bottle containing 30 ml of the entrancing scent, capturing the magic and mystery of the orient.” - AJMAL

In my opinion this is the most youthful edition from the oils line of Ajmal. Maybe suitable for users who are not so much into typical hardcore Arabian scents, Alf Lail O Lail (1001 Nights) is still a Middle Eastern fragrance of oriental character, but it is not centered in oud or the combination of oud and rose. It is a very powerful scent with massive projection, perfect for when you want to leave a trail of sensuality. Unisex by nature, Alf Lail O Lail is a full-bodied composition. It fills my nostrils and invades my brain with narcotic sensations. Flowers, leather, spices, woods, a lot of smoke and tobacco... It is really rich and sweet and it evolves in a very interesting way through the long hours of its sillage. Be prepared for a long journey for this lasts forever and it will surprise you at the corner with a new facet every now and then. When you jump on this roadtrip you will start by smelling an orange blossom accord that sparkles with citrus and then the already evident rose theme starts echoing. Then, a huge amount of spices like saffron and pepper brings energy. What follows is an enveloping mixture of oud with fruity, sweet elements that come wrapped in a smoky vibe as a potent leather comes to light in a sexy musky base. The smoke and the leather lead the way into a grand ambery finale that smells like gold and glory.

ZAHEE

“Zahee is a floral and spicy fragrance that is a reflection of traditional tastes and designed for those who are deep rooted and enjoy the essence of Middle Eastern notes. It is a Spicy rendition revolving around Floral and Woody notes induced by the use of Saffron Rose and Agarwood. The fragrance is reinforced with Amber and Musk to provide an air of mystique to the accord.” - AJMAL

Zahee is a more traditional rose/oud fragrance which doesn't bring a big challenge to an oriental perfumista. It is elegant and refined and it feels like a cloud of roses. Different roses with facets that go from sweet to jammy, to fruity, to powdery. It comes with a strong woody accord of a comfortable sandalwood. The heart of oud is not very animalic and it unites in deep love with the flowers and the woods. I think it brings to mind a rich rose and red fruit jam sometimes. The drydown turns into a more ambery fragrance with some smoke and the slight touch of Nag Champa incense. Strong but delicate.

My addiction to Ajmal oils is now official. Not only are the scents like a drug to me, but the packaging is stunning. If this isn't luxury, I don't know what is...

Top 5 Ajmal Perfumes: How I Came to Love Oud

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by: Miguel Matos

I have to tell you that I am not an oud conoisseur and until recently I didn't even like it. Except for a few scents, everything seemed uninteresting and even unpleasant to me. Then I discovered the warm animalic ouds of Le Labo Oud 27, Oud de Burgasand Tiziana Terenzi's Ursa and these opened my eyes to the beautiful dirtyness in oud without the harsh chemical mess almost all western ouds are (I really dislikeMona di Orio's Oudh Osmanthus, for example). The more commercial editions likeVersace Oud Noir, Arabian Nights, Aigner Nº1 Oud were also nice introductions but lacked depth. So, Oud was for me like a secret I hadn't been told. Everyone loved it, but I just couldn't understand what was so interesting about it that made so many brands junp into that trend.

I was still unable to find the secrets of oud, until I visited the Ajmal booth in the Cannes TFWA exhibition last October. I had an instinct that proved to be correct. I felt like I had to try oud scents made by a brand that is not fantasizing. A brand that comes from an oud culture. It still think that most Western ouds are nothing but a synthetic harsh smelling twisted idea on oud. And so I entered Ajmal with the will to try everything, especially the mukhallats oud attars. It was my last chance to understand oud. After that I might as well give up. I'm happy to have made that decision for I finally got it!

Ajmal's Oscar Menezes was the man who could see my need for instruction. He started showing me the eaux de parfums from the brand, but they were just normal perfumes of western style. No oud, nothing new nor exotic like I expected. Then I told him: “Listen, I really want to be surprised. Show me the strongest oud you have here, the purest, the oud attars, the perfumes a really rich inhabitant from Dubai would wear.” He tried to explain  about the Middle Eastern perfume traditions and saw that I already was theoretically prepared.

Ok, let's get started. Oscar picked an absurdly beautiful crystal bottle and showed me the thickest and hardest to sell product they had, difficult for a European, or so he thought. His face was not hiding his disbelief. He really thought I would hate it. He took the little glass wand from the bottle, dripping in sparkling transparent brown oil and put it close to my nose. I adored it! Oh that barnyard funkyness smell of sexual attraction and rich nuances of woods and nuts, or something I couldn't even explain! This represents one of the best editions from Ajmal: Dahn Al Oud Hikaaya. It's a concentrated perfume made of oud oil.

At this point I have to disclaim that I am not in the know of the different kinds of oud. Well, I know where they come from, but I can't tell it by smelling. I also agree with the common belief that it takes time to enjoy oud. You have to educate your nose in order to appreciate it. So what I am going to describe comes solely from my sensations. Let me tell you about  my 5 favourite perfumes from Ajmal.

Dahn Al Oudh Hikaaya

“Exquisitely packed in a hand-cut crystal bottle, Hikaaya is a Dahn Al Oudh concentrate, crafted using the finest Indian and Cambodi agarwood oil. The heart of this Oudh is of Indian origin, which has been matured and meticulously blended with Cambodi notes to provide the fragrance with an expressive aroma centered on sophistication and mystique. Designed for Khaleejis, this product category is an acquired taste, and is slowly but surely becoming accepted by a wider audience. “ - Ajmal

Dahn Al Oudh Hikaaya is a bold attar, not for the faint-hearted. It is incredibly intense and dirty. "Barnyard" is the immediate association I made, but in a good way. It is animalic, woody, nutty, almost fecal. This is a characteristic that almost any good oud has, as I  learned later on. And that is exactly what lacks in western oud perfumes which seem like washed ouds. This one has no shame: it is hard, strong, beastly and warm. It has a sensual personality and an enveloping thickness. It's just rich and smells organic. It's still hard for me to find an appropriate vocabulary to describe such a perfume, but as an animalic scent lover this fills all my desires. People around me seem to disagree. This is still a very hard to pull off scent for an European. But I do love it, me and my strange tastes...

Dahn Oudh Al Shams

“Al Shams (Arabic for ‘Sun’) is an oriental Eau de Parfum exclusively created for today’s brightest and trend setting individuals. This fragrance is highly diffusive and has a very good retention. Derived from aged Indian Agarwood, the pleasant and long lasting aroma radiates unique characteristics bearing the mark of Indian Oudh.” - Ajmal

Another one I loved from Ajmal was Dahn Oudh Al Shams. This is not an oil, but rather an eau de parfum with massive nuclear strength. Half a spray and it's a blast. Again, woody, animalic, spicy. This is truly good, sultry and manly. The longevity is even better than the one in Dahn Al Oud Hikaaya, it lasts more than 24 hours on the skin and an eternity on clothes. It brings an aura of sensuality and richness I had never smelled before. Depth, warmth, power. This variety of oud is more medicinal and balsamic, and therefore it may be fresher but also a bit harsh, especially in the first minutes. But the brutal force is impressive and it gives way to an enchanting smell. Be sure not to overspray. Oh and may I warn you: absolutely not office safe.

Mukhallat Tharwaan

Different from the first two I mentioned, Mukhallat Tharwaan is not only oud. The word Mukhallat means that this is a composition of oud and other ingredients. What I smell here is the traditional combo of rose and oud. This is not such a strong fragrance and it can be an easier way to get introduced to these scents. This stunning (and extremely heavy) bottle contains a beautiful and delicate aroma which is a contrast of florals and woods with the animalic base of oud. It also has a fruity top note of something like raspberry. The sensation is rosy and dry with a background of richness and elegance. It shows a very successful balance of warmth and freshness, of woods (I smell sandalwood) and flowers with a sweet ambery tone which envelops everything in a graceful matter. The touch of saffron gives it magic. More refined and more unisex than the previous two scents, Mukhallat Tharwaan is easier to pull off and also more versatile.

Again, I have to stress that this bottle is a true jewel. Now this is what I call luxury. These bottles from Ajmal are made from solid, heavy crystal and even the boxes are symbols of extravagance.

Dahn Al Oudh Maymun

“Derived from the essence of finest Agarwood trees from India and Cambodia and worn by individuals who like to bask in the glow of purity, this traditional fragrance forms the heart of Arabic culture exuding pure magnificence and a touch of traditional sophistication. An excellent blend of Indian and cambodi notes denote the power of this enthralling scent”. - Ajmal

Pure oud oil again, but this time this attar reveals an animalic resin like the first example of this article, infused with a ripe fruit aspect with a touch of sweetness. Very balmy but also creamy, this oud packs a punch and it smells like an old horse saddle, leathery and thick, with the warm smell of an animal and bits of honey. There's a plummy fruit smell coming very subtly to the stage, making this oud rich in nuances. The old wood tone is very prominent, with a slightly musty feeling to it. Velvety and soft, this attar comes in an exquisite crystal bottle with a lovely gold cap in the shape of a radiating sun.

Dahnal Oudh Alban

This one comes in a small and light bottle which you can carry around to reinforce your fragrant day. This is another traditional oud attar which is considerably sharper and not as thick. It is closer to the eau de parfum Dahn Oudh Al Shams, but being an oil it has less projection and is easier to control. Less animalic and more woody, it still has that old musty wood smell which you may learn to love like I did. Sometimes I wear this and spray it with Tea Rose Parfum on top. The result is divine!

If you are an animalic scents lover and you still can't figure it out why oud has such a cult, please try these and comment below if you fell in love like me. But a word of warning: Once you start wearing the ouds from Ajmal, everything else may start to seem wishy-washy.

All bottle photos by Miguel Matos