4160Tuesdays Crimes of Passion

Posted by Robin 

Indie brand 4160Tuesdays has launched Crimes of Passion, a new collection of seven fragrances: Inevitable Crimes of Passion; Dirty Honey; Maxed Out; Raw Silk and Red Roses; Midnight in the Palace Garden; Goddess of Love and Perfume; and Be Careful What You Wish For.

Inevitable Crimes of Passion ~ "The original fragrance which started the whole project, Inevitable Crimes of Passion is a rich, deep scent that tells a story. It reminds Sarah of a Henry James novel, with an innocent start that makes promises of love, but becomes complicated - passionate, intense and compulsive - and can't ever return to simplicity. She deepened it with mushroom absolute (boletus, the cep or penny bun) to give it a dark, sensual, animalic base." With orange, pink pepper, cognac, sandalwood, cedar, mushroom, chocolate, coffee and musk.

Dirty Honey ~ "Along Sarah’s street there was a sudden spring blossoming of Mexican mock orange, tiny white flowers that wafted their delightful scent through suburbia for two weeks. Mock orange and Sarah have history; when she was two years old she shoved the buds from her garden shrub so far up her nose to get more of the smell, that she had to go to the doctor's to get them extracted. It was fate. Now that she knows a bit more about perfume, the blossom smells to her just like dirty honey, so she made herself a version to last all year round. It's a white flower fragrance, made with beeswax and honey absolutes, woods, vanillin and labdanum, jasmine and honeybush extract." Additional notes include Atlas cedarwood, frangipani and musk.

Maxed Out ~ "There's a 'fume fan’ who's a fragrance friend of Sarah’s, Maximilian Heusler. She and Max got talking online about his ideal fragrance and it was the most amazing idea, inspired by his former wild times...He told her about the kind of night out in New York that involves cocktails, marijuana cigars, hookers and passing out. She knew what cocktails smell like; the rest? Sarah has a good imagination. So this is one intense scent: rum, coconut and lime, tobacco, coffee and cannabis essential oil, a handful of vintage style musks, a generous dash of vanilla, a drop of cumin and woods. Max was astonished with the result; it’s exactly the smell of his Ferragamo leather jacket from 2003."

Raw Silk and Red Roses ~ "Sarah wanted to make a really rosy rose, a 1980s style scent, like a walk through a rose garden. She loves her rose fragrances, and although she had been dabbling with rose and violet, rose and herbs and rose and vetivert, she'd wanted to take the plunge with pure rose. Her aim was "Wow! Roses!" but bearing in mind that perfume fans like to know what other notes there are surrounding the rosy heart, you may also detect a handful of flowers, fruits and resins." Additional note include peach, yuzu, woods, geranium, opoponax, musk and patchouli.

Midnight in the Palace Garden ~ "Picture a hot night in an Eastern palace, the moon shines into the courtyard, where a fountain gently plays. Jasmine, orange blossom and frangipani scent the air. A cedar tree grows in the corner, there's a silver tray with strong coffee, fresh blood orange juice and vanilla sweets. There's a divan covered in silk and cashmere shawls to rest on and stare at the stars....As extravagant scents go, this is one of 4160 Tuesdays’ most outrageous: three kinds of cedarwood, sandalwood, coffee, vanilla, blood orange, davana - an artemesia which smells like mulled wine - jasmine, neroli and frangipani."

Goddess of Love and Perfume ~ "Aphrodite (Venus in Roman Mythology) was the goddess of love and perfume, also of pleasure and beauty. Sarah wanted to make the ultimate fruity chypre, with backcurrant, peach and her favourite raspberry leaf, and sufficiently heavenly for Aphrodite...Sarah was particularly impressed by two fruity chypre fragrances which she smelled at the Osmotheque in Versailles - Fruits Defendus from the 1920s by Paul Poiret, and Shocking by Schiaparelli from the 1930s. She wasn't even sure if it would be possible to make something that gorgeous and legal these days.[...] This is Sarah’s own favourite perfume." With plum, peach, raspberry, bergamot, yuzu, blackcurrant, wild strawberry, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, vanilla, oakmoss, opoponax, patchouli, oakmoss and vintage musks.

Be Careful What You Wish For ~ "Sarah had decided not to make an oudh fragrance, mostly because they so often seem to be brought out merely to grab a cynical share of the lucrative Arabian perfume market....Recently she was in Dubai, and bought five different oudhs from the soukh at the creek and decided to change her mind. It's different from most though - a citrus fruit oudh with guaicwood and patchouli, plus a new wood oil which is being called white oudh by the French supplier; it's from a tree that grows in Indonesian mangrove swamps. Five oudhs give it a deep, animalic woody feel, but it's not got the overwhelming typical smell of decaying woods. There's not much point making an oudh scent that smells like everyone else's though, is there? So a fresh fruity oudh, that's what we have here." With pink grapefruit, juniper berry, peach, white oudh, raspberry, strawberry, guaicwood, patchouli, vanilla, plum, dark oudhs.

4160Tuesdays Crimes of Passion fragrances are available in Eau de Parfum or Extrait, in a variety of sizes.

(via press release)

FROM: http://www.nstperfume.com/2015/09/11/4160tuesdays-crimes-of-passion-new-fragrances/

4160 Tuesdays Sex Goddess

by: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic

Some famous perfume houses create fragrances and entire collections that can be worn together, by combining them mutually. They are created with the intention to act and sound as one whole, while they allure us, perfume fans, to a game of fragrant layers that creates a true fragrant spectacle on our skin. The perfumer of the house of 4160 Tuesday came to her new creation by using such a fragrant game and called it  SEX GODDESS, which arises from combining two existing compositions – the fragrances Goddess of Love and Perfume and The Sexiest Scent On The Planet IMHO. Sex Goddess promises the power and seduction of both previous editions.  

As the perfumer of the house of 4160 Tuesday, Sarah McCartney, states: “I think that perfumers generally prefer people to appreciate a fragrance as a whole rather than trying to pick it apart and isolate different notes.  Besides, what you put into a perfume is often unrelated to what people get out of it; plus we all notice different things, based on our experiences.” Regardless of the fact that Sarah tried her best to make sure all the notes build a new whole, she revealed that for this particular fragrance she used the intoxicating and seductive notes that define Sex Goddess and that we can clearly smell in this composition: rose, plum, blackcurrant, violet, cedarwood, musk, lily, raspberry and jasmine. The house of 4160 Tuesdays reveals that the composition also features a small amount of oak moss which is barely noticeable, but it is this note that provides the fragrance with the vintage charm of the 60s and contributes to the longevity and strength of the perfume, while leaving a sophisticated misty effect.  

Sarah McCartney also explains that the union of the house’s best-seller Goddess of Love and Perfume from the series Crimson of Passion and The Sexiest Scent Of The Planet IMHO to make SEX GODDESS came about quite by accident. “It happened when one of our layering experiments got out of hand and went too far. We love to see what happens when we blend our scents. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t; this one was so magnificent that we decided to bottle it,” said Sarah McCartney, 4160 Tuesdays’ founder and perfumer. “We’ll give the credit for this one to Aisha Addison, our lovely intern, who is currently the only person to own a whole bottle.”

Sex Goddess was announced in November 2015 and launched in January 2016, in 50 ml flacons Eau de Parfum, priced at 60 pounds and 100 ml priced at 90 pounds. The fragrance can be ordered on the official website 4160tuesdays.com.

The video clips that I chose for this article show perfumer Sarah McCartney speaking about the creations that were crucial for the composition of Sex Goddess: Goddess of Love and Perfume and The Sexiest Scent of The Planet IMHO.

 

4160 Tuesdays press release

4160 Tuesdays: 'Short Film Perfumes'

by: Serguey Borisov

Not so long ago a microperfume brand with an unusual name, 4160 Tuesdays, appeared in London. All their fragrances are handmade, in microbatches from fifty to two hundred bottles. The perfumer is a London resident, Sarah McCartney, a self-taught perfumer who spent a perfume-related 14 years as head author of the "Lush Times" catalog. And the influence is quite clear in the amusing and ironic names of the perfumes, not to mention the colorful packaging.

Actually, the brand appeared when Sarah decided to take a break after her work atLush (which has grown from four UK stores into a grand international network of 700 boutiques) and write her own novel. The perfume theme of the novel brought her to the idea of perfumes created by the main character, but this idea turned out to be expensive and not so easy. Not all of the eight perfumes had been created before. So she had to become her own perfumer and try to create the perfumes ... and then she just never stopped.

Thus, the novel The Scent of Possibility was published (and a second edition was issued already!). Also, two dozen perfumes of 4160 Tuesdays have seen the light, and each perfume is a short story that includes characters, a time and place for the action, a mood and a situation. In fact, these are not perfumes, but stories told without words. At the same time, they are something simple and sincere, akin to a sweater knitted by your own hands or a jam you made from strawberries you gathered in the forest. The perfumes are so DIY that you could almost learn the recipe from your grandmother or neighbor (“Oh, dear, your Shalimar is so nice and tasteful! Tell me, how you are doing it? Is there any secret ingredient? There should be one!”). Something that could be done by your hands, and is scary at first, but if you persist things will work out sooner or later. Blended from bottles bought in online perfume materials stores, made of essential oils and synthetic molecules, they don't smell like luxury perfumes. But they smell good enough to use and are able to tell a story. The story will not be a great blockbuster, but it's not necessarily because it's purposed for home video or short film.

I'm going to review some “Short Film Perfumes” by Sarah McCartney first, and leave the story of why the house is called 4160 Tuesdays for the dessert.

The samples of 4160 Tuesdays are wrapped in colored paper, like children's candies. I hope that Bond №9 did not patent this sweet technology yet. This charming feature gives to the perfume samples a secretive, playful mood and protects them from damage. Another convenient feature: the sample tubes have stoppers instead of plugs, so they are easier to open and more convenient to use.

The first fragrance, which I took out of a purple paper candy wrapper is calledShazam! This amber oriental fragrance continues the spirit of natural perfumes, as it keeps close to the skin. This theme is often used by beginner perfumers-- amber orientals are almost the most popular things you can't go wrong with. Amber as a combination based on patchouli, vanillin, labdanum and citrus in the case of Shazam! has got a couple of additional accents in a strange combination: juniper gin and incense.

Shazam! Top notes: Basil, Tangerine and Juniper berries; Heart notes: Atlas cedar, Pink pepper, Cardamom and Frankincense; Base notes: Amber, Patchouli and Cocoa.

The second sample I took out of the goblet full of “Tuesdays candies” was namedUrura's Tokyo Café,

in an orange wrapper. Who is Urura? Is it a real cafe? I urge you to make your own investigation. For me it is a gentle fragrance of delicate colored satin ribbons to keep in place the swaddling-clothes and make a clear traditional color code. Just two is enough for the color code: a boy and a girl, cute twins, blue ribbon of violets and pink ribbon of roses. A warm floral fragrance, a little childish, simplistic and naive--but then, that naivete wins in most literary situations? The greatest thing in the perfume is its relaxed attitude to chemistry: violets, as in the 19th century, are depicted by an ionone accord.

Urura's Tokyo Café​ Top notes: Pink grapefruit and Tangerine;​ Heart notes: Violet and Rose;​ Base notes: Opoponax, Raspberry jam, Tolu balsam.

A sample jumped into my hands out of its purple paper and it had a fancy name: Time to Draw the Raffle Numbers. Actually, the smell is not easy to put into the framework of perfume families. It is fresh, it is metallic, it is sweet as cakes and bitter as the soil on the vetiver rhizomes. It blooms like flowers; it smells of cut cucumbers and crushed violet leaves. I did not recognize the synthetics—Folione, probably. It should be a fantastic story about aluminium cucumbers grafted on to a vetiver canvas field—a fragrance that can be recommended for both Martian robots and Texan Marlboro cowboys going to a rendezvous in New York, Paris and London.​

Time to Draw the Raffle Numbers​ Top notes: Lime Blossom, Metallic notes, Marmalade-On-Toast;​ Heart notes: Coffee, Leather and Croissants;​ Base notes: Tobacco and Vetiver.

In red-brick-colored wrapping was hidden a Sunshine and Pancakes tube. Let's attract the witchcraft symbolism immediately: the wrapping color should be called "freckled." Let the sun rays come from mini-suns of oranges and lemons. And pancakes, too, we need here only as a symbol of the sun in the Shrovetide week (so it could be Shrove Tuesday, by the way). Pancakes with a bitter fragrant honey(and later, with something fatty and buttery). But if someone needs the real pancakes and the real sun—not just a symbolic one—in their perfume, I suppose that smell would be quite different. It would be less citrus and spicy, and more complex as a Maillard reaction gives a lot of complex and delicious smells, for example, caramel, dulce di leche, roasted nuts, chocolate Nutella, peanut butter, etc. And what are your favourite toppings for pancakes?​

Sunshine and Pancakes​ Top notes: Lemon and Orange;​ Heart notes: Australian sandalwood, Rosewood and Jasmine;​ Base notes: Vanilla, Honey absolute, Musk and Benzoin.

The Dark Heart of Old Havana perfume in a red wrapper is an interesting and vibrant contrast of sweet and bitter, tender and hot, pleasant vanilla and repulsive naphthalene (although this should be an indole
and coumarin combo). This meeting of naïve vanilla ice cream with a dangerous Latin lover wearing Joop! Homme. I feel it as somehow an unsettled and non-coiffured concept, but with a promised dark core in it. Still, vanilla is more prominent.​

The Dark Heart of Old Havana Top notes: Orange, Peach, Grapefruit and Sugar;​ Heart notes: Tobacco, Bergamot, Tonka bean, Jasmine and Coffee;​ Base notes: Vanilla, Musk and Black pepper.

What I Did on My Holidays perfume by its blue label and wrappers seemed to hint to us of an island location of the United Kingdom. Is it a seaside? A wet fresh start, partly violet leaves (the cucumber note from Time to Draw the Raffle Numbers), partly vanilla and sweet creme brulee, plus mint, camphor, mouthwash. A very unusual combination, as people usually avoid consuming cucumbers with vanilla ice cream and lavender soap ... But there could be some whims, I agree.

What I Did on My Holidays​ Top notes: Peppermint, Coconut suntan lotion, Sea air;​ Heart notes: Lavender and Cotton candy;​ Base notes: Vanilla ice cream.

And I want to conclude the overview with the landmark fragrance called The Sexiest Scent on The Planet. Ever. (IMHO), provided with a *sarcasm* sign of 85 inches diagonal. There is nothing dramatic, except linalool alcohol. There is little noticeable at all, except a tiny and nice marshmallow note. Turn the nose magnification on and move in closer, even closer, the closest, you can find some vanillin and some shy molecules: cedar-woody, ambergris-like and lactone-gourmand. Sex will never happen at a planetary distance. One always has to come closer. And of course, Iso E Super's aphrodisiac properties haunt anyone—perfumers as well their customers.

The Sexiest Scent on The Planet. Ever. (IMHO)​ Top note: Bergamot;​ Heart note: Woody notes;​ Base notes: Vanilla and Ambergris.

So, why is the brand named 4160 Tuesday? This is the number of Tuesdays you have to live if you reach 80 years age. Do you think that's a lot? Or not? Keep in mind, they are not Mondays The Terrible and not Wicked Fridays, they are not Free-Timer Saturdays that stretch for 30 hours and not Gloomy Sundays Before Mondays. They are Tuesdays.

Bleak days of the week, if you work on the assembly line every day.

Inspiring days, if you love your job and go to work looking for new solutions and new knowledge.

In general, if you do not enjoy your time, every Tuesday will be the torture and the yoke. Find joy yourself. Find an occupation and a hobby that will make you happy and does not interfere with others. Flowers in the garden. Tales for your kids. Walking or jogging. Embroidery. Mega-cakes. Making fishing flies. Origami. Creating a new philosophy or religion. Graphomania. Growing giant pumpkins.

You cannot even imagine how many ways to be happy humanity can come up with if you do not wait until retirement and do not miss a single Tuesday to try something new. Sarah McCartney does not. I'm pretty sure that Sarah could be one of the best representatives of the Red Hat Society. What kind of society are they? Here, read this.

When I am an old woman I shall wear purple​
With a red hat which doesn't go, and doesn't suit me.​
And I shall spend my pension on brandy and summer gloves​
And satin sandals, and say we've no money for butter.​
I shall sit down on the pavement when I'm tired​
And gobble up samples in shops and press alarm bells​
And run my stick along the public railings​
And make up for the sobriety of my youth.​
I shall go out in my slippers in the rain​
And pick flowers in other people's gardens​
And learn to spit.​
You can wear terrible shirts and grow more fat​
And eat three pounds of sausages at a go​
Or only bread and pickle for a week​
And hoard pens and pencils and beermats and things in boxes.​
But now we must have clothes that keep us dry​
And pay our rent and not swear in the street​
And set a good example for the children.​
We must have friends to dinner and read the papers.​
… But maybe I ought to practice a little now?​
So people who know me are not too shocked and surprised​
When suddenly I am old, and start to wear purple.  
—"Warning," Jenny Joseph, 1961

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