Olfactive Studio Sends You On Vacation With Still Life in Rio

by: Miguel Matos

While in the Northern Hemisphere we are all fed up with winter, cold and rain, and while the sun is starting to show itself in a shy way with the first rays of light, we dream of summer. Well at least I do, since I am a beach addict. One of my biggest pleasures is to spend a whole day by the sea, relaxing with friends and just lying down recharging my batteries with the warm embrace of the sun. Oh well, for now this is just a vision, for it's still February. But Olfactive Studio got me dreaming of summer days with the latest edition Still Life in Rio.

The launch of Still Life in Rio is not really untimely, for February is a summer month in Brazil with Carnaval, beach time and very hot days. I just wish I was there. And it actually makes a lot of sense for this brand to make a perfume inspired in Rio de Janeiro, for Celine Verleure, the owner of Olfactive Studio, used to live in Brazil. And since Brazil is a top tourist destination during Carnaval, this is a logical move. Too bad the brand is not distributed there. Again, this perfume is selling a dream for those who were there or fantasize of going there.

Still Life in Rio is not really a flanker of Still Life. It actually has a life of its own and a very distinct composition. This is a citric fruity formula which recalls a cocktail like caipirinha splashed with coconut water and a woody base. This is a work of perfumerDora Baghriche (who also created Still Life in 2011) and I feel it as a very simple fragrance destined for days when it is hot outside and you need a refreshing and uplifting scent without strong sillage. Just plain comfort with a tropical hint.

When Celine and Dora tried to depict the city of Rio de Janeiro they decided to explore the quietness instead of the frantic movement this place has in its life of culture, tourists and workers. The image that usually accompanies each perfume in Olfactive Studio is in this case a panoramic view from the Corcovado, the famous statue of Jesus Christ, shot at dawn by the photographer Flávio Veloso.

                   

"The picture captures Rio's beauty at that special moment when the sky ignites and spreads its golden shroud" - Olfactive Studio

In this contemplative image, Dora Baghriche found inspiration for this Still perfume. Still Life can refer to the photographic style and technique but also to the peaceful life. And this is really a peaceful scent. I confess to prefer more of a complex scent. This is the kind of perfume I only wear in July and August when the high temperatures demand this relief in a happy relaxed mood. To me this seems very straightforward: citrus and coconut water followed by woods, sprinkled with freshly picked mint leaves. All the other players seem to be there for body and structure. This is a mist, an enveloping embrace of beachy tropical smells that are very far away from suntan lotion. I think I could even drink this in a big glass full of ice. Yes, it reminds me of cocktails full of juices.

“Exotic and luminous, Still Life in Rio is a new and unique scent that opens with yuzu, ginger, mint and lemon essence. It blossoms and heats up with a blend of peppers, Jamaican hot peppers and coconut water, finishing with rum and Brazilian copaíba essences”, says the official description by the brand. Well, I really can't smell any of the peppers and the ginger is there but in a very subtle touch. Mandarin is evident and adds more to the juicy theme. Coconut water is the star, but it is done in a transparent way (transparent is a good word to describe this fragrance). The rum doesn't make it sweet. I have to wait until summer really comes to see what this concoction does for me. Maybe I will bathe in it while heading to the beach near my house. For now I mix it with E. Coudray Ambre et Vanille to make it deeper and stronger. They work wonders layered together!

Still Life in Rio is simple and uncomplicated. But who wants something complex when you are on vacation?

Still Life in Rio

Top notes: yuzu, ginger, mint, lemon, mandarin

Middle notes: jamaican hot peppers, pink pepper, black pepper, coconut water

Base notes: rum, Brazilian copaíba, white leather accord

Olfactive Studio Still Life In Rio (2016)

Olfactive Studio are introducing a new fragrance inspired by a photography called Still Life in Rio, a composition which stands on its own while making reference in name only to a previous perfume, Still Life. For the first time, the brand are incorporating a destination approach...

"Still Life in Rio is a vibrant scene that depicts awakening. The elements unfurl,
striking a pleasant balance, skirting the water, skirting the skin. A landscape with
hypnotic boulders forming a myriad of tiny islands, including the familiar Sugarloaf;
the enticing waters of Guanabara Bay; unparalleled light; the gentle presence
of plant life and city peaks; reflections rippling across the stone balcony whence
this view was sourced. The dawning, the beginning of each material."

The perfume was created by perfumer Dora Baghriche of Firmenich based on a photograph by Flavio Veloso.

"While the art of light shines through this new creation, this sunny perfume is best described in terms of starlight, the primeval flicker. Exotic and luminous, Still Life in Rio is a new and unique scent,"

The eau de parfum has top notes of yuzu, ginger, mint, lemon, mandarin seguing into a heart of Jamaican hot peppers, pink pepper, black pepper, coconut water. The base rests on rum, Brazilian Copaiba essences, accords of white leather.

Olfactive Studio Selfie – Boozy Winter Delight

by: Miguel Matos

I have never smelled a bad perfume from Olfactive Studio, but when I thought that Panorama was the best edition from the French niche house, this creation signed by Thomas Fontaine surpassed it and surprised me. When I smelledSelfie for the first time in Pitti Fragranze, I was instantly seduced and the general opinion from other perfume bloggers was very positive too (nevermind the nonsense name of the fragrance. I am not fond of it). But I got my hand and nose on a full bottle that I have been wearing for the last few weeks and I am truly mesmerised. It's not often that we smell something and can't relate it to another previous fragrance, but I dare to say it's the first time I smell this accord. After all, Olfactive Studio is known for introducing new materials (like wasabi in Panorama). This time it's not really a new material, but a new combination that results in the perfect scent for this winter.

When I tell you that Selfie is a winter fragrance, it's not in the sense of it being dense or hot. It's not. In fact it's enormously comfortable besides being balmy and spicy. It's actually perfect for one of those cold sunny days without any clouds. The fragrance is a work on resins and spices and it has a strong boozy vibe. The opening is very bright and rich and resembles the smell of a very old and rich whiskey with green hints here and there. Whiskey is an obvious note, and a gorgeous one, but for the last two weeks that I've been wearing it, I always get a very familiar feeling beyond that.

Selfie has a very recognizable opening for me and I couldn't put my finger on what it was. The enigma started to unsettle me, but I know that the things come to us when we stop looking for them, and so I waited... Until last night. I was meeting my friends at a bar in Lisbon and they were all drinking red wine (Portuguese wines are among the best in the world in case you didn't know). I wasn't in the mood for wine and so I decided to ask for a very traditional Portuguese liqueur called ginjinha. Ginjinha is made from sour cherry brandy and sugar. My favourite brand is Espinheira, which uses caramel sugar and this makes all the difference.  The result is a very sweet and balanced blend of fruit, sugar and alcohol with the whiskey-ish brandy nuances. I drank my glass of ginjinha and when the glass was empty, without thinking about perfume at all, I started to smell it. And it was very clear to me: Selfie was there, inside a glass of ginjinha! Who would have known?

Ginjinha has a characteristic sour cherry smell, which is not sweet like regular cherries and has a spicy aspect based on cinnamon. The brandy gives it the alcoholic vibe with the woody facet of the vats where it is stored and aged, just like whiskey. The caramel sugar thickens the liqueur and gives it not only the sweetness but also the velvet gourmand texture of caramel. This is all present in the opening of Selfie, but it doesn't turn it into a gourmand scent. It is spicy and boozy and yet fresh enough to keep it from being dense.

Another beverage we all know very well in Portugal is anise liqueur, but actually only old people drink it. And this is another major ingredient to compose the top of Selfie, imparting some more freshness, with the help from elemi and ginger. It's the richest spicy boozy opening you will find. Olfactive Studio usually uses innovative top notes, like the wasabi accord in Panorama. In Selfie, it's the unusual way of combining alcoholics and spices that makes it new and original. Incense and angelica contribute for the dynamic and effervescent start, too.

As it evolves, Selfie even reminds me of mulled wine, as the cinnamon really shines. But then there is a thicker entrance of maple syrup. And boy is this delicious. All of these notes are strange when I remind you that the perfumer who signs this composition is Thomas Fontaine, known for his masterful vintage-style concoctions for Jean Patou. This is mega contemporary and truly original, and it fits the Olfactive Studio line perfectly. Back to the maple syrup. It develops into the heart making it truly delicious, wintery and balsamic. There is a strong woody background with hints of spice and balsam and this comes from cabreuva wood, which yields an essential oil that is used to treat common colds.

Perfumer Thomas Fontaine

Suede, tonka bean and labdanum are the comfy cushions where Selfie lays on the drydown stage. It is a skinscent after a couple of hours. It has decent longevity but the final chypre drydown is not loud. Looking at the notes, you might think it could be overwhelming, but it's not and the office would not be offended by a responsible wearing. You can always choose to overdose it, but it never gets opulent as a night perfume should be. Sandalwood envelops the whole composition in a creamy sensation and gives this liquid a caressing character. Selfie is an expensive, thick, oversized, caramel brown, cashmere sweater and a hot cup of ginger tea with cinnamon (or ginjinha if you are in Lisbon). Overall this is a complex fragrance but not to the point of being difficult to wear. It's just a bit quirky as we can't accurately describe it, for the fresh, balsamic, medicinal, boozy, ambery and woody aspects are all continuously dancing without settling into a unified single theme. Having said that, it's a rich and soothing scent. And that's what makes it genious. I would still like to see this eau de parfum in a stronger concentration though... but that's just me.

Olfactive Studio: Selfie

by: Miguel Matos

Selfie is the new perfume from the French niche brand Olfactive Studio. Coming out in September 2015, Selfie follows a different path from the other editions of this house. All the previous fragrances from Olfactive Studio are connected to photography. They depict an idea both in image and in smell. This time, Selfie comes without a specific picture. It awaits your own photo. The trendy selfie everyone is crazy about nowadays.

“Olfactive Studio has opted not to feature an inspirational picture on the packaging, since the inspiration for Selfie is you! A mirror on the packaging immediately reflects your image… Mirror, mirror, on the wall, am I the fairest of them all? You can personalize your Selfie fragrance even further: choose one of your selfies, drop it into the fragrance label and print it off on our website atwww.olfactivestudio.com/selfie You can then treat yourself (or others) to a Selfie fragrance featuring your very own picture!” - Olfactive Studio press release
 

Thomas Fontaine is the perfumer responsible for the creation of Selfie. Celine Verleure, owner of Olfactive Studio, has been working on the project with this perfumer for over a year. Together, they had presented a perfume that was evocative of the female skin in a workshop called “Skin”, last September at the Pitti Fragrance expo in Florence, Italy. The resulting scent was interesting and very erotic, but still too vintage and floral for Celine's taste. Still, Celine really wanted to work with Fontaine, so they engaged into a new project that ends now with Selfie.

This is supposed to be a comfortable chypre with surprising head notes. Maple syrup, spices, tonka and woods support the fragrance with a cozy feeling. The previous fragrance, Panorama, also had an unexpected accord of wasabi. In this edition, the introduction of the food element maple syrup brings a distinction to Olfactive Studio's composition.

SELFIE Top notes: Elemi, Ginger, Star anise, Incense, Angelica Middle notes: Accord of Maple syrup, Cinnamon, Lily, Cabreuva Base notes: Accord of Suede, Styrax, Labdanum, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Tonka bean, Sandalwood

Source: Olfactive Studio Press Release

Olfactive Studio Selfie (2015)

French niche brand Olfactive Studio is releasing a new fragrance called Selfie continuing to explore the art of perfumery as a creative commentary on photography...

Selfie edp is said to be "The perfume of a self-comforting staging of the self." (Our translation)

The genre of the selfie is a defining one for our times ca. 2014, so it is no suprise to see it illustrated in this collection of fragrances.

The composition is signed by perfumer Thomas Fontaine who officiates at Jean Patou but also takes on briefs from independent labels such as Lubin and Jean-Charles Brosseau.

The eau de parfum opens on top notes of angelica, elemi resin, ginger, badiane and frankincense. The heart has notes of maple syrup, cabreúva, lily and cinnamon. The base rests on oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, sandalwood, storax, tonka bean, and sueded leather.

Panorama by Olfactive Studio

by: Ivana

The house of Olfactive Studio is launching their 7^th fragrance, calledPanorama. It will be presented at the Milan Perfume Week 2015 by its creator and house owner, charming Céline Verleure. Panorama is a green fragrance built around the interesting note of Japanese wasabi. The perfume incorporates the scent of an urban jungle, interwoven into different shades of green (herbal, spicy and woody).

Panorama was created by perfumer Clement Gavarry (IFF), who enriched it with initial refreshing citruses, lemon and bergamot, and continues into the green heart full of curious notes of  violet leaves, fig leaves, bamboo, cardamom, galbanum and freshly cut grass. The central note is wasabi, vigorous and penetrating, that provides a tingle to the green, grassy aromas of the heart. The base provides the feeling of a walk in a mountain forest, with flavors of fir balsam, myrrh, patchouli, musk and labdanum.

PANORAMA

Top:  bergamot, lemon

Heart: wasabi, fig leaves, galbanum, cardamom, violet leaves, freshly cut grass

Base: myrrh absolute, fir balsam, patchouli, tonka bean, vanilla, musk, labdanum

As is characteristic for the collection by Olfactive Studio, the bottle of this fragrance is also accompanied with a photo taken by a talented photographer, in this case Miguel Sandinha. The photo shows an amazing view from the famous Sheats Goldstein House, one of the most beautiful villas of Los Angeles.

Panorama by Olfactive Studio arrived on the market as 100 ml Eau de Parfum 100 ml in late 2014.

Read also Fragrantica’s Interview with Céline Verleure in which she announced her new fragrance, Panorama!

Author: Ina_Mo

Fragrantica Editor and Translator