quinta-feira, 25 de junho de 2015

Giorgio of Beverly Hills for Men (1984; 2008)



This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!
by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison
Summary: With a focus on honeyed patchouli, rose, tonka and sandalwood, 1984’sGiorgio for Men was sadly discontinued until parent company Elizabeth Arden re-launched it in 2008. I’m happy to report that Giorgio for Men is now widely available at bargain prices for your enjoyment and the reformulation is not all that different from the original.
Perfumer: N/A, please tell us in a comment below if you know.
Try this if you like: Oriental chypres; the aroma of ink from ball point pens; patchouli; petrol vapors; sweet, woody aromas; cinnamon; rose accents.
Pros & Cons: Don’t let that retro opening fool you, the midnotes and drydown are actually quite compelling, especially when the sandalwood begins to shine and the vanilla/coumarin peeks out. And though I mention rose accents, Giorgio is by no means floral. In fact, it might be a little too 80s for some due to its ubiquity at the time and as it offers none of the gourmand sweetness nor fresh aquatic tones so popular in today’s market. I love the classic bottle that reminds me of a flask.

Notes: “Top notes are aldehydes, orange, fruity notes and bergamot; middle notes are carnation, sandalwood, patchouli, cinnamon, orris root, cedar and rose; base notes are honey, tonka bean, amber, musk, benzoin, oakmoss and vanilla.”—Fragrantica.com
Designer’s Description: N/A
Number of times tested: 10 times over the last two months.
Number of sprays applied for this review: One spray to the back of my hand from a new 50 ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2010).
Fragrance strength: EDT
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Giorgio 2008 opens with petrol vapors (I suspect it’s the aldehydes), honey, strong patchouli and a punch of citrus. Within the first 30 minutes this surprising opening begins to relax making way for the oriental basenotes to sweeten the composition; this is one of those rare examples of a fragrance moving from herbal to sweet as it develops rather than the other way around. In its second hour, the floral mid notes really create movement between top and base as rose, carnation and accents of buttery orris root blossom. The drydown is surprisingly demure with noticeable mossy tonka, cinnamon, sandalwood, and amberybenzoin.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) I get about 8-10 hours with this one.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) “Powerhouse” is an apt description here; best to use sparingly if in close quarters or warm weather.
Note about the packaging: A flask-shaped, striated glass bottle with silver cap and accents housed in a yellow and white-striped paper box with Giorgio of Beverly Hills insignia. Vintage boxes read “For Men” while newer boxes also include “Pour Homme”.
Where can I buy it? My 50 ml EDT spray was found in a discount shop (USA) for $10 USD.
The Bottom Line: Ah, Giorgio, the scent of the 80s! Before the beach scents, the green tea scents, and the barely there fresh scents, Giorgio for Men offered not one but two variations on a theme: the men’s oriental chypre. By no means groundbreaking compositions—as Givenchy Gentleman from a decade earlier offered the same basic structure but with focus on civet and vetiver, and 1980'sOscar de la Renta’s Pour Lui (reviewed here) also followed a similar blueprint but with focus on labdanum and leather—there was something about Giorgio (and Giorgio V.I.P Special Reserve) that captured the imagination of a generation. Giorgio represented a way of life, new Hollywood glamour and modern American style. Whereas the tuberose and orange blossom explosion of Giorgio (for women) retained some of its market, the mens’ scents disappeared soon after the brand had been sold to Avon in 1987. Twenty years later, Giorgio for Men (only the original, not the V.I.P.) was re-launched when the Giorgio label was acquired by Elizabeth Arden.
To me, Giorgio has always smelled most strongly of three things: ink, petrol and patchouli. To my gourmand-loving nose this should be a complete turn off. But I find it compelling, disturbing and addictive. Maybe it’s the nostalgia, or maybe it’s just a darn good fragrance, but every time I reach for it I think, “Ummmm, do I really want to smell like that?” and then every time I wear it I think, “Wow! Is that ME who smells so good?” Part of this reticence to wear Giorgio is that it starts off BIG, LOUD, and GREEN; and part of this pleasure is the journey it takes to its basenotes offering rose tinges, hints of sandalwood and a sweet, ambery drydown. In fact, I’d say it really needs to be sampled with patience to understand its full glory. For the price, a purchase of Giorgio offers a glimpse into the American scented past.

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