sábado, 6 de fevereiro de 2016

Bargain Fragrances: Navy by Cover Girl/Dana (1990)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less.  Leave a comment below for your chance to win a sample of Navy, shipped anywhere in the world, FREE!
Summary: A bold, floral oriental, Navy by Dana (originally from Cover Girl) is a sure bet for those who love vanilla, amber and orange blossom at less than $20 USD.
Perfumer: NA

Try this if you like: Powdery, vanilla aromas; the sweetness of orange blossom or ylang; a hint of animalic skank; a touch of peach; fragrances that linger subtly.
Reminds me of: Navy undoubtedly reminds me of the original Boucheron pour Femme and I don't think Cover Girl was shy about this similarity. Originally launched in 1989, Boucheron was housed in a rounded glass and gold botle with cobalt blue accents. A year later, Cover Girl launched Navy in a rounded glass and gold bottle with cobalt blue accents. And compare the list of notes for each - the compositions are nearly identical! The main difference? Navy is nowadays a much subtler and less complex affair.
Other fragrances I'm reminded of are Joop! FemmeGabriela Sabatini, and Ungaro(original). To some extent, the fragrance calls to mind scents like Bijan and Cher Uninhibited in the drydown stages.
Pros & Cons: Navy is likely not quite the beast it once was when launched 26 years ago. However, as far as reformulations go, Navy has survived surprisingly well and still offers good longevity and sillage. Though now only available as a cologne, it was once also available as a "perfume" during its initial years with Cover Girl.
Many will find the fragrance a bit dated and too "mature" for their tastes as the aroma is neither fruity nor gourmand and the florals are on the bold and more classic side. However, for some this will surely be a welcome bonus. I personally find it a more subtle alternative to my big yellow florals like Joop and Boucheron and a bit more powdery overall.
The packaging today is rather simple, no beauty here to speak of; but wow, that price!
Notes: Dana currently lists "Orange Blossom, Neroli, Gardenia, Jasmine, Heliotrope, Cinnamon, Amber, Musk."
Designer’s Description: "You always feel perfect in Navy - The clean, classic fragrance"; "Unmistakably classic style that is irresistible and timeless. Experience its unique allure. Casual, yet elegant…Unforgettable. This full-bodied floral bouquet is enveloped by sweet spices, amber and creamy musk."
Number of times tested: 10 times over the last 1 month.
Number of sprays applied for this review: 2 sprays to the back of my hand from a 30ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2015).
Fragrance strength: Cologne
"You always feel perfect in Navy.
The clean, classic fragrance"
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Navy opens with sparkling citrus notes and what seems to be a touch fo aldehydes. Immediately behind these notes is the floral body of the scent: orange blossom and ylang are most prominent to me with the jasmine and gardenia playing supporting roles. Powdery heliotrope, vanilla and amber anchor the fragrance and keep it perceivable and familiar. There is a beguiling musk that appears right from the start and then reappears again in the final stages, but it is rather tame when compared to the animalics in Joop, for example. This Navy never ventures into unchartered waters; the overall effect is instantly familiar.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) With only two sprays, Navy lasted well beyond 7 hours albeit very subtly after the 3rd hour.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Navy is rather strong when first applied and throughout its first hour, but it acts like a typical cologne therafter. This one might be a little bold for the office or close quarters upon initial application but quickly relaxes.
Note about the packaging: Navy is housed in the exact same botle as when it launched with a navy blue plastic top and clear glass bottle bottom. Older versions have the top plastic part affixed to the bottle with a built in sprayer while the newer version allows the blue cap to be fully removed. The perfume version offered a gold affixed cap with blue spray piece or fully gold body. The fragrance is currently packaged in a simple blue, white and silver box (see below) while older versions feature navy and white stripes with a gold name plate at center (see top). Other versions do pop up now and again such as a rectangular cobalt blue glass 1 oz atomizer but I'm not sure of their age.

Where can I buy it? A 30ml Cologne spray is as low as $10 USD at discount sites.
The Bottom Line: Navy launched while I was in high school and I remember seeing the little gold and blue bottle pop out of a purse or backpack now and then. I don't remember the aroma though, at least not in the same way I can remember scents like Exclamation, Liz Claiborne or YSL Paris.
Having had success with Navy for Men and reading the list of notes for the women's version, I figured it might be similar to Boucheron. So, I took the risk for $10 USD and ended up with exactly what I had hoped for: a sweet oriental with strong orange blossom and amber. I absolutely love it and reach for it  often. I previously reviewed the men's version HERE and it has absolutely nothing to do with the women's version.
It's interesting how we associate aromas and colors and this little gem has me wondering what the color "navy blue" smells like to me? Navy, the aroma, is a golden orange because of the associations I have with ylang, orange blossom and the golden vanilla-amber that anchors its composition. My favorite aspect of Navy is the long, sweet drydown with musky overtones and just a hint of warm cinnamon. When the florals have fully relaxed, those basenotes are a nice surprise and very comforting. Considering what I've tried from Dana thus far, I think Navy is the hands down winner.
I'd love to read your thoughts about Navy! What have your experiences been like? What kinds of aromas smell like "navy blue" to you?
Leave a comment below for your chance to win a sample of Navy,
shipped anywhere in the world, FREE!