Malefic Tattoo by LM Parfums: Oud, Blood, Frankincense

by: Juliett Ptoyan

Recently, LM Parfums have caught people's attention due not only to their commercial success, which can be common for a new brand, but also in terms of the brand's overall creativity, which happens less often. People love them for their unique aesthetic, expression, and incredible sillage, but not everyone can wear them. The aromas are like a gothic, fanciful interior - black velvet and gilt frames at every turn.

LM Parfums seem like they would suit Yves Saint Laurent well - he gathered a peculiar “army of lovers”, or dedicated fans of his brand, and that turned to be the best way to promote the brand products and fairly present his own style.

Today we are going to talk about Malefic Tattoo (will be added to the database in the coming weeks) presented at the 13th Fragranze. Conceptually it is related toCicatrices, the other Intimacy Collection launch. The designers suggest that the fragrance conceptually represents a tortured heart, held captive in a lover's absolute power. Laurent Mazzone notes, "This is a story everyone has experienced in their lives: those who have power over you always leave marks on your soul. Malefic Tattoo is not just ink on your skin, it is something deeper. It’s a tattoo which will stay with you to the last."

 

The history of domination starts with a dry wine accord through which the thin trickle of frankincense eventually seeps, leaving bloody oud traces – like scarlet drops appearing on skin being pierced with a tattoo needle. The woody undertone of oud takes a back seat here (it’s being almost swallowed up with a metallic blood accord), and then everything happens as in a time-lapse animation: icy, cemeteriallabdanum freezes the whole process and finally there remains only some cool, unearthly air and the echo of sandalwood slivers, dry and crooked as the hands of the 100-year-old witch from the story of Snow White.

I think this is a case when a fragrance doesn’t need any legend, it clearly speaks for itself: here we have submission, then existential crisis and frustration, and finally a torture chamber with a cemetery just outside its window. It is the tale of Bluebeard or one of those believable horror stories about Elizabeth Bathory: full of blood, pain and suffering. And, yes, as a fragrant translation, it is done really well.

Top notes: pepper, cinnamon, saffron, cistus, frankincense

Middle notes: woody amber, oud accord

Base notes: styrax, labdanum, papyrus, musk, cashmere wood, patchouli,sandalwood