New Fefé by Panama 1924

by: Juliett Ptoyan

At the beginning of the 20th century "Fefé" meant "dandy" in Naples; a dandy was a young gentleman who took a lot of care in his appearance and spent hours trying to look dapper. During the last Pitti Fragranze this word makes a reappearance: Panama 1924 launches Fefé as their new eau de toilette.

In Profumitalia's (owner of Panama's license) booth is a stylish mannequin in a pumpkin-colored orange jacket under a spotlight: it seems like they dressed him up as accurately as Maurizio Cerizza's work on the fragrance. By the way, "Fefé" also has its roots in the classic Neapolitan barbershop, Boellis - and so it felt only right to see not just a mannequin, but shaving accessories as well.

We're standing at the booth, and Cristiano Cerizza, managing director of Profumitalia, is telling me about the scent of shaving cream, which is always in the air of barbershops. The same note is in "Fefé": the topnotes are like a snow-white foam with a drop of bergamot oil, and the barber is carefully lathering the face of a client with a little varnished brush.  A bit later this "salon" chapter of the fragrance turns into an airy fougere heart with notable herbaceous and citric shades (the mix of orange peels and spicy estragon is truly incomparable), which is perfectly balanced and very toned. In fact, "Fefé" could have became a charming Eau de Cologne, but what for? It's very ironic as it is and it's ok - there's not so many really good juices for men.

Back to our Neapolitan dandy: after 10-15 minutes its airy heart vanishes and transitions to the smooth basenotes, as smooth as a top-of-the-range textile for a classic suit (which is obviously bespoke with a tailored-fit and takes five fit-tests before it's complete). Cashmeran plays here a key role, but patchouli and cedar help it. The dry down of "Fefé" is very subtle, almost transparent, but the traces of cedar and amber can still be found there. The result is  a really pleasant masculine fragrance, moderately classic and ironic, and perfect in its concept.

Top notes: bergamot, lemon, estragon

Middle notes: jasmine sambac, orange blossom, saffron

Base notes: patchouli, cashmeran, Virginian cedarwood, guaiac wood, amber, musk