Gender Bender: Habit Rouge EDT by Guerlain (1965)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of fragrance reviews that asks, “How does fragrance transcend gender?”

Hello and welcome to “Gender Bender (click me to read others in this series)”, an exploration of aroma, gender and scented freedom. Though by no means do I personally prescribe to fragrance having a gender, sociocultural stereotypes about masculinity and femininity often prevail at the fragrance counters and are viewed as important distinctions for many fragrance fans. Join me as I explore some of my favorite 20th century masterpieces of perfumery in my quest to challenge marketing rhetoric and address the question, “How does fragrance transcend gender?”

Summary: Despite its distinction by those at Guerlain as the “Shalimar for Men” and “the first men’s oriental,” women have also long enjoyed the aroma of Habit Rouge. Celebrating its fiftieth anniversary this year, and available in more formats than ever, Habit Rouge is a gender bending masterpiece with an intriguing history.

Perfumer: Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Try this if you like: Citrus; vanilla; traditional florals such as carnation and rose;leathery or dry fragrances that are neither sweet nor foody; a touch of powder.

Reminds me of:  Habit Rouge is rather incomparable but to some extentPenhaligon’s Castile and Guerlain’s Eau de Shalimar both come close. Some reviewers have also suggested a passing resemblance to the classic Old Spice.

Pros & Cons:  Habit Rouge (HR) is undoubtedly a Guerlain classic, though numerous iterations (EDC, EDT, EDP, Dry, L’Eau, Sport, etc) and reformulations over the years make it a little tough in 2015 to pin down just what the original perfumer’s intent was. However, for those that love the basic framework of HR, there are numerous “modern” variations to choose from. Though vintage Eau de Cologne bottles of HR are as close as possible to the original, thanks to time and the fleeting reality of citrus topnotes (citronellol), even they can’t quite speak to the striking beauty of the original.

For many perfume lovers raised on leathery, mossy, spicy and woodsy powerhouses of the 70’s and 80’s, aquatics and ozonics of the 90’s, or gourmands and synthetics of the new millennium, HR feels decidedly old-fashioned and more in keeping with scents like Eau Sauvage or Signoricci in its overall composition. Habit Rouge just might be too much your uncle or dad's scent. And while an incredibly well-blended leather is a star player in the composition, in no way is HR a predictable, smoky or buttery leather. Likewise, though the vanilla in HR is what makes it so legendary (and according to Sylvaine Delacourte, Jean-Paul’s uncle Jacques was none too pleased by the employment of this note, claiming it had made the fragrance a “women’s scent”), it isn’t the same sweet, dessert note that graces so many other compositions. Indeed, HR’s vanilla leans heavily on the classic Guerlinade accord of bergamot, rose, jasmine, tonka bean, orris, gumresins, animal notes and vanilla that is the identifying hallmark of many a Guerlain creation.

It’s no secret that more recent iterations of HR attempt to modernize the aroma, a testament to even Guerlain’s recognition that Habit Rouge stands in stark contrast to modern tastes, its chilly citrus slicing through the composition like a riding crop and leather lingering like the aroma of a well-oiled saddle. But at the same time, this retro formula is what keeps HR so fascinating. Rarely do we see rose and carnation, with its powdery clove-like tendencies, a major player in modern, Western perfumery.

Notes: “Oriental. Dynamic, passionate, audacious. Bitterness becomes freshness, playing on refined harmonies of lime and bitter orange. The first oriental men's fragrance, Habit Rouge is considered at Guerlain to be the "Shalimar for men". It is crafted around favourite materials (bergamot, vanilla, patchouli, tonka bean), which we find in the Guerlinade. The Guerlinade, the sensual olfactory seal of Guerlain creations, gives Habit Rouge a perfectly inimitable style. Its spicy, sophisticated heart, warmed by patchouli, rests on a base where leather mellows under the creamy caress of benzoin and vanilla with a rebellious touch.” Guerlain.com

Designer’s Description: “Created in 1965, Habit Rouge was the first oriental fragrance for men in perfumery. From the moment of its launch, this tribute to Guerlain's passion for the dressage of horses created an element of surprise with its scents of sensual and bold vanilla. An oriental that is by turns citrusy, warm and accented with vanilla, it expresses the genius of contrast and well-mastered emotions. Habit Rouge incarnates a man who is enamoured of refinement and capable of all manner of audacity. He lives his life fervently and distinguishes himself with a trail of extreme sensuality. With its modern geometry and mastery of form, Habit Rouge has an eternally elegant French appeal.” Guerlain.com

Number of times tested: 100+ over the last 30 years.

Number of sprays applied for this review: 1 spray to the back of hand from a new EDT bottle I purchased online at a discount site (ca 2013).

Fragrance strength: Eau de Toilette

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Habit Rouge EDT (ca 2013) comes across as fairly straightforward with the citrus topnotes offering a refreshing and longlasting zing to the meatier middle notes of rose, carnation and patchouli, and the basenotes of vanilla, leather and tonka bean. The result is kind of like peering into a pond of surprising depth; the immediate appearance is always glistening citrus while the blended lower notes add depth and color. By comparison, I find theEDP version to offer a bit more development.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) The current Habit Rouge EDT stuck around for about 5-6 hours, impressive for a modern EDT fragrance, and one which relies so heavily on fleeting hesperides. Even in the drydown, the citrus notes are evident.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) The current Habit Rouge EDT is likely an office safe choice. Though by no means shy, the scent does relax fairly quickly.

Note about the packaging: Habit Rouge’s current bottle is a tall, transparent glass rectangle with liberal sprayer and rubber-ringed, silver cap. The famous red label still adorns the center of the bottle and the fragrance is housed in a red, paper box.

Where can I buy it? Found online for as little as $35 USD for a 50ml tester.

The Bottom Line: The story behind Habit Rouge is that it was inspired by the aroma of an equestrian’s coat after a jaunt in the saddle, the mingling of horse hair oils and eau de cologne on fabric; the creator wanted to suggest a marriage of clean and dapper with rugged and animalic.

Everything one needs to know about Habit Rouge can be found at the marvelousMonsieurGuerlain blog. What is most interesting about their article is the issue of gender and aroma. Apparently, in the 1960’s, vanilla was not a “man’s” fragrance note. Interestingly, lavender, violets, roses, jasmine and carnations, along with citrus, spices, leather and woods were men’s fragrance notes. The comparison that many reviewers make to Old Spice is also intriguing as Shulton had originally launched Old Spice in 1937 as a women’s product, developed in homage to the potpourri of the founder’s mother! Only a year later did the not-so-different “men’s version” sail onto the market.

Jacques Guerlain was so disappointed in his young nephew Jean-Paul’s red riding hood of a scent that he quickly thereafter released a toned down version of Habit Rouge, “Dry” – less vanilla, more middle and topnotes. Jean-Paul apparently took pride in his modernization of men’s perfumery while 1959’s steadfast Vetiver was seen to be a more fitting ode to masculinity. And this gender issue not only played out in Guerlain’s fragrances but in its appointment of noses as well. It's no secret that for quite some time, women were not seen as capable perfumers, a position belonging to men. One can only wonder how this misogyny impacted the career of Jean-Paul’s talented neice, Patricia de Nicolai. One whiff of her New York and one can sense 100 years of Guerlain heritage. The first time I sniffed it, I said aloud, “Now THIS is Shalimar for Men”.

So back to Habit Rouge, a bracingly fresh aroma, ideal for those who enjoy bright orange and lemon notes, with a surprising depth, traditional floral heart, and earthy edges: I’ve had numerous bottles over the years, alternating between love and disdain for the aroma, one of which went to a female friend of mine and one of which was turned down by a male friend of mine for being too “rough and dirty”. It never ceases to amaze me how we each have our own individual preferences, largely based on culture and experience. Moreover, that we sometimes allow ourselves to be limited in pleasure, constrained by someone else’s classifications, is even more mind boggling. 

Images from Prime-beaute.com, Guerlain.com, Fragrantica.com, & Normanwebdev.com