Orlov: An Olfctory Gem from a Master's Hand

by: Jodi Battershell

Is there a fragrance lover in the world who hasn't fallen in love with at least one perfume composed by Dominique Ropion (left)? Looking through his list of iconic creations, it comes as no surprise that he's been perfuming my world in one form or another since the mid-1980s, long before I knew anything about the perfume industry and the people behind the scents. Whether it's an affordable mass market scent like The Body Shop's Love Etc... Sun Kiss, top-selling designer fragrances likeThierry Mugler Alien or YSL L'Homme, masstige scents like La Vie Est Belleor niche offerings like Fréderic Malle Carnal Flower, we can be certain that a Ropion fragrance will be beautiful, wearable and desirable.

For Ruth Séry and Thomas Méaulle, founders and Creative Directors of Orlov Paris, Ropion is a perfect choice for creating their fragrance collection inspired by the legendary diamonds of history. Diamonds, too, are beautiful and desirable (and arguably, wearable for most occasions—diamond stud earrings look fabulous with a t-shirt and jeans OR a velvet evening gown). Both perfumes and diamonds have romantic aspects and are often given as gifts and used to mark milestones in a romantic relationship, such as weddings and anniversaries. Séry and Méaulle each found themselves enchanted by Ropion's perfumes over the years. On the night this pair met, Méaulle was actually wearing Malle's Vétiver Extraordinaire—another Ropion fragrance. Destiny, diamonds, perfume and passion have coalesced into a masterful collection of seven scents, each a precious olfactory gem to treasure.

Selecting a favorite from the Orlov Paris collection was a difficult task. All seven scents are gorgeous, and to use gemology terms, the three Cs—"cut, color and clarity"—of each perfume ensured each scent was unique and multi-faceted. (In evaluating these fragrances, there's even an opportunity to incorporate the fourth C—carat weight, which I'll talk about later.) At some point, it comes down to personal preference—do I prefer a a princess cut or a pear cut? A bigger diamond or a smaller diamond with greater clarity? After giving it some thought, I've chosen to highlight the signature scent of the Orlov Paris collection, Orlov, in its original concentration from the Diamond collection. 

Let's talk a little bit about the diamond which inspired this fragrance and also gave the collection its name: the Orlov Diamond, which weighs an astonishing 189.62 carats and has a notable bluish-green tint, enhanced by its rare Indian rose-style cut. Legend has it that this diamond was originally the sparkling eye of an idol in an Indian temple before a French grenadier/thief spirited it away, having converted to Hinduism just long enough to secure the trust of the temple's priests. From there, it changed hands several times before it reached Count Grigory Orlov in Russia. The Count hoped the diamond's magnificence would rekindle the affections of his former lover, Catherine the Great. Alas, it was not meant to be. Not wanting such a beautiful gem to go unappreciated, the Empress had the diamond set in the Imperial Sceptre of Russia, where it remains today, under the ownership of the Kremlin Diamond Fund in Moscow.

Russian Imperial Sceptre featuring the Orlov diamond. Image: Adin Fine Antique Jewellery

Ropion represents the diamond's brilliance with a trio of white petals: Orange Blossom, Tuberose and Sambac Jasmine. This classic feminine bouquet is enhanced by a bergamot top note, with a warm and gently sweet oriental base featuring vanilla and musk. (The official Orlov website also indicates the presence of iris and leather, though I don't discern them as individual notes on my skin.) Scents of the Diamond Collection are concentrated at 18-20%, which is more than enough to ensure this heady combination will linger and cast a wide perfumed aura for 12 hours or more.

I recognize Ropion's hand in this masterful composition. Orlov is a distinct creation, but echoes of Alien, Flowerbomb and even the honeyed sweetness of Amariage can be found here. The powerful white flowers are drizzled with vanilla and sprinkled with a bit of sugar. Jasmine is the dominant floral note in Orlov, and rightly so—it melds perfectly with the sweet vanilla in a tempting and narcotic embrace that has me sniffing at my wrists all day. Vanilla and musk also serve to tame the rubbery aspects of the tuberose and trim the green twigs and stems from the orange blossom note. Bergamot is easily the bluish-green tint of the Orlov diamond, its crisp citrus imparting a gentle green sparkle that's visible only from certain angles.   

Orlov is a classically beautiful feminine scent, cheerful and pleasant and as likely to elicit compliments as a beautiful diamond solitaire pendant. Like a diamond pendant, it's a fragrance to be treasured. Orlov is suitable for special occasions and would be a perfect gift for a wedding or anniversary, but what's the point of saving our treasured possesions only for formal events? The best way to enjoy both diamonds and Orlov (and all the things we love) is surely to wear them as often as possible. Wearing such a fragrance would be a great way to add a little magic and romance to each and every day.

Returning to the four Cs of diamonds, Orlov is a unique Indian rose-style cut, colorless in its brilliant white floralcy and flawless in its clarity. For me, its notes, sillage and longevity are the just the right "carat-weight" for my enjoyment of this olfactory gem. I admit I am something of a minimalist and the diamond I would choose is not likely to be the biggest. For those seeking more "carat-weight" from their fragrance, the Orlov Elixir Edition may be just the ticket. In addition to its higher concentration of 30%, not to mention the diamond contained inside its flacon, the Orlov Elixir Edition features a different combination of notes, with amber and more vanilla punching up the Oriental aspects of the fragrance.

All fragrances of the Orlov Paris collection will be available at Bergdorf Goodman or visit the official website of Orlov Paris to learn more.

Thank you to Orlov Paris and Robert Wilson for the opportunity to preview the fragrance collection.

All images except sceptre: Orlov Paris.