Thorns & Roses: Rose Of No Man's Land by Byredo

by: Juliett Ptoyan

This autumn, Byredo, whose minimalistic bottles are on every hipster wishlist, presents a new fragrance, Rose Of No Man's Land, dedicated to Sisters of Mercy, who saved thousands of lives during World War I. The PR campaign for the new launch engaged Danish model Freja Beha Erichsen, photographer Craig McDean and French art duo M/M. A part of the proceeds from sales will be given to "Doctors Without Borders", which helps military fatalities and people who were left without any medical help. Freja Beha's collaboration with Byredo is not the first charity action: previously she worked as a volunteer for DWB and made a limited collection with fashion brands Mother and Zadig & Voltaire; a percent of that revenue was also donated to a charitable fund.

There's a comparison noted in the official press release between this new fragrance and soothing balms (maybe it's like an association with nurses' efforts in relation to soldiers), but Rose Of No Man's Land is much more challenging than something that can be described with tags like #sophisticated, #delicate or #elegant. Come on, we can find these words in every second release, but not everyone can drown arose in wine to great success; however, Jerome Epinette did just that.

There's not much of a storyline to the fragrance, just the striking profile of a rose-who-is-40-plus, a rose-mistress, a rose full of go. At the beginning of the scent there's no humor: a heroine rose sips a glass of Riesling, dramatically unable to give in and let the wine take over. "Show me what you can," she demands. The wine, little by little, causes her to swoon and it seems that the rose might vanish and leave us with just a lingering echo of alcohol. The most interesting part begins when the rose finally makes a claim about herself: there's velvet, crushed petals, faded leaves; she tiredly gapes and starts to talk: "Yeah, I knew him, and him too, yes, we had something, can't you read it on my face?"

This rose is not one to be flirtatious, she doesn't act like The Queen of Flowers or roll in money, or simply speak senseless nothings. She hasn't arrogance (just like those nurses), though slightly formal, she announces "I am as I am" - and it sounds really hot.

This is a New Rose - and she doesn't have to flirt, seduce or lure; she is just who she is: with tilted head, demanding eyes, worn make-up - and so what?

Interestingly, this new fragrance from Byredo hardly changes in the long run: in the end our drowned lady opens on skin with a dry, slightly harsh scent which can recall a Friday night out at the pub.

Rose Of No Man's Land

Top notes: pink pepper, turkish rose petals

Heart notes : raspberry blossom, turkish rose absolute

Base notes: papyrus, white amber