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terça-feira, 13 de outubro de 2015

AFFINESSENCE The Base Notes Collection: Cedre Iris, Patchouli Oud, Santal Basmati and Vanille Benjoin

by: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic

One of the most interesting niche collections launched this year, in my opinion, isAFFINESSENCE, the collection founded and envisaged by Sophie Bruneau, perfume expert with 25 years of experience in the perfume and cosmetics industry. Sophie Bruneau says she has always been attracted to perfumes. When she was a girl, she collected samples and perfume ads and was mesmerized by art in general. She pursued ballet, played the piano and made sculptures. Her job as a marketing director in the perfume industry was based on creating and developing perfumes in cooperation with perfume houses, as well as launching perfumes on the market. 
"I have a soft spot for brands that are deeply rooted in nature, where I can cultivate my passion for natural ingredients. I have always been determined to develop fragrances hand in hand with perfumers: directing the creative process while respecting their skills and artistic sensitivity. It is only this way that we can create a product which resonates with every one of our senses.
AFFINESSENCE is a collection dedicated to all those who respect quality. Above all, this is a collection aimed at those who are sensitive, who select scents, perfumes and emotions that provoke them. This is for all those who wish to give in to their senses and follow their heart!" – Sophie Bruneau points out.

The collection that Sophie decided to launch back in 2013 was namedAFFINESSENCE, and her uniqueness was noticed  as early as in act one of her perfume opus called THE BASE NOTES COLLECTION. In this article, the first four fragrances introduced in 2015 will be covered, scents created of top notch ingredients that are typically used in the base notes of perfume compositions. Sophie Bruneau’s passion for base notes, which are also the strongest and most long-lasting, lead to the idea to make these four fragrances the first ones of the Collection. The Base Notes Collection includes four fragrances: Cedre Iris,  Patchouli OudSantal Basmati andVanille Benjoin . They were all composed with a ‘sensual signature’ and are capable of capturing everyone's attention with their trail. 
"With a higher molecular weight, base notes are the heaviest notes in a perfume. This gives them exceptional qualities: intensity, extreme persistence, a particularly sensual warmth on the skin and an incomparable trail. Beyond their physical and chemical qualities, the base notes are those which touch us most deeply, because they resonate with our deepest egos. If we find ourselves in “affinessence” with these notes, it’s because they form a direct affinity with our senses: Amber, vanilla, wood or animal notes, these warm, rounded aroma's are genuine triggers for our emotions. A divine presence on our skin, comfortable and deeply reassuring, they resonate with all of our senses and all of our being. " - Sophie Bruneau.


The new perfume genre that Sophie set out to create contains four important guidelines: creativity, luxury, unprecedented and technique.  
She asked perfumers to create in a different way than they were used to, breaking the rules of the market where many fragrances resemble one another, and because of their "shy" aura and longevity, Sophie felt they do not deserve their names. Beside the creative trait that she wanted her perfumes to possess, they also were meant to carry the epithet of luxury; which was realized through high quality ingredients and imaginative composing. The guideline to be unprecedented is the "leitmotif" of the collection and forced perfumers to create in an unusual way. To ‘dare to forget’ the traditional structure of the olfactive pyramid (top, middle and base notes), and to turn the focus on the fullest, most direct notes will lead to perfumes full of character. Through the years, Sophie learned that technique is essential in creating a high quality fragrance, and to end up with a trail that lingers in the street when you pass by, when you leave the room, the trail you are known for, the creators had to be able to achieve the perfect strength.  For each fragrance, composed of what we usually see as basenotes of a perfume, the perfect strength was accomplished, a kind of olfactive crescendo!
Each of the four fragrances of the first opus illustrates the art and talent of the perfumers while depicting their favorite  base note! The perfumers who created these fragrances were free to select their favorite ingredients that resonated best with their senses, that would inspire them and highlight their creativity. Sophie gave them an unlimited budget for top quality ingredients, so they could choose the most expensive ones and the best ones on the market.


Affinessence chose three types of cedar to embody the fragrance Cedre Iris and blend them with vibrant Toscana iris absolute (Iris Pallida), the most precious one on the market. The blend of natural essences of Virginian cedar, Moroccan Atlas cedar and Texas cedar is in perfect harmony with the drops of benzoin and myrrh, softening the woody-powdery blend, while guaiac wood supported with incense contributes to a unique electricity and charge of emotions. The perfumer signing this creation isNicolas Bonneville.
Virginian cedar, Moroccan Atlas cedar, Texas cedar, iris, benzoin, myrrh, guaiac wood, incense 



Patchouli Oud is the fragrance signed by perfumer Nicolas Bonneville. When creating this perfume, natural Indonesian oud was selected (Agar wood) and combined with patchouli essence, providing a characteristic face. With an aim to create a unique harmony, Java vetiver, cistus and labdanum, elemi resins and incense, guaiac wood and moss from trees were used. Together with the above ingredients the blend of oud and patchouli affects all senses, leaving a superb, luxurious trail.
Indonesian oud, patchouli, Java vetiver, cistus, labdanum, elemi resins, incense, guaiac wood, moss


Sandalwood and Basmati rice create the core of Santal Basmati, a creation of perfumer Alexandra Carlin. Essences of Mysore sandalwood are enriched with the milky and sensual character of a specific basmati rice, one of the rarest in the world. The fragrance is enveloped in a veil of patchouli, iris and cashmeran that form an intoxicating, addictive and classic trail.
 Mysore sandalwood, basmati rice, pathcouli, iris, cashmeran


In order to present this extraordinary "marriage" of ingredients, Affinessence combines two types of vanilla (Tahiti vanilla absolute with intense scent of leather and sweet aromas of Madagascar vanilla absolute). This blend is combined with a so-called alter-ego, Siamese benzoin, a fragrant resin originating from Laos and highly respected for its balmy, almond-like shades. For the strong, irresistible trail the perfumer used ambroxan, tonka, as well as Moroccan and Chinese cedar, placing benzoin and vanilla in the first plan and providing amazing strength. Fragrance Vanille Benjoin was developed by perfumer Corine Cachen.
Tahiti vanilla absolute, leather, Madagascar vanilla absolute, Siamese benzoin,  ambroxan, tonka, Moroccan and Chinese cedar

The flacon design is focused on simple lines with an Art Deco touch. The fragrances are available as 100ml Eau de Parfum and crowned with shiny black stoppers. The outer cartons feature matte shades with contrasting shiny black details on the edges and tag. The simple lines of the flacons and packaging accentuate that the focus lies on the perfume and that it plays the main role here!
The flacons arrive in genuine cashmere pouches made of 100 % natural materials as the  ultimate luxury! In these pouches we can carry our flacons in our handbags to keep them safe and inhale our fragrance every time we open it. This type of accessory can also be used by men, for instance to protect their luxurious watches. All perfumes of the collection can be worn individually or combined with other fragrances.
The price of these fragrances is 300 eur for 100ml Eau de Parfum. For all who are interested, a set is available which contains 4 samples – 2 ml each, priced at 10 eur. The collection has been on the market since September 2015 and can be ordered viaAffinessence official website and at Jovoy Paris perfumery.

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