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terça-feira, 13 de outubro de 2015

Accendis: Illumination of the Soul

by: Serguey Borisov

I met Emy Cesaroni-Rodriquens about 3 years ago at Pitti Fragranze, when she was part of the Profumitalia team. She showed me, and all other visitors, the new perfumes of brands like  Absolument AbsintheProfumi de PantelleriaAcqua di PortofinoRose & Co Manchester and Hugh Parsons. I will be forever grateful to her for introducing me to  Pineider perfumes, since through them I learned about the young and talented perfumer Luca Maffei.
This year, she presented the new art-perfume brand  Accendis at the expo, and I gladly share what I learned from her with our faithful Fragrantica readers.
Sergey Borisov: Emy, what top secret did you bring with you this time?
Emy Rodriquens: It`s my own first perfume collection, Accendis, which for now consists of 3 fragrances.
Sergey Borisov: My sincere congratulations! What does the name Accendis mean, it's not a word everyone would know…
Emy Rodriquens: “Accendis” means “you illuminate” and also “you bring out aromas” in Latin. The Accendis perfume collection is a result of my personal spiritual research concerning our inner light. Light is omnipresent – it`s a good concept. We are all animated by the light in our souls and we recognize, in different ways, the great importance of light. There's an awareness in our souls and minds that there's more than just a physical reality. There's also something magical, metaphysical, irrational. The light of hope, the light of love, of passion, of friendship and victory, and of many other things represents the essence of our lives. We all need that light to illuminate our horizons, and sharing our emotions can only bring more joy and happiness. Knowledge is also light and revelation. Beliefs are light, too. Everything could be the source of our inner light and energy.
Sergey Borisov: Looking at the bottles, I think they are pretty but they remind me of a certain commonly used object. Could I say – gas canister? Isn't it far from the luxury of Swarovski incrustations and gold-plated plates we usually see in perfumery?
Emy Rodriquens: To find a visual design for the light in my perfumes, I looked into Pop Art and Neo Pop, as I have always believed that Pop Art can “illuminate”, in the sense of giving things a new light. As Andy Warhol wrote “Pop Art is a way of loving things”. It`s just another way to say “Light”. Every object could become the source of emotions and be used or seen in a different way from before. A creative person could find many ways to make emotions visible in his or her art form.
There`s much of the Pop Art spirit in Accendis – I made the pure glass flacons clear as crystal, and shaped them in a form that reminds of a simple commercial gasoline canister. usually this shape is connected to containers that hold inflammable liquids.
I chose a book shaped box for the outer packaging of these bottles, since books are the source of enlightenment, the illumination of our minds. These books are not for reading, but for learning through sensing.
Sergey Borisov: I hope that light is expressed not only in the design around, but also in the fragrance notes and accords?
Emy Rodriquens: I have given my fragrances a strong personality, because I believe light is stronger than darkness. I worked with the company Mane Perfumers, and the brief was to create the expression of energy, the sensation of a vital force. So not surprisingly, the common ingredients of the Accendis perfumes are resins and woods, as symbols of the force of life. And by the way, those ancient torches were made out of woods and resins also. I made my Accendis collection to be a metaphor of the path of life.
Accendis 0.1 is gentle and strong like a new shoot that breaks through any barrier to see the light. It`s like a baby that at the proper time starts to move out from the womb; no baby wants to stay in the warm and cozy darkness forever. It moves out to see the light. As for the others, Accendis 0.2 represents the intensity of an illuminated life, and Aclus is a triumph of completeness.
Author's views
Accendis 0.1 is a warm, oriental rose fragrance that lingers on the skin forever. It starts with a sweet rhum-like, boozy accord after which it develops from its spicy alcohol opening to an oily and fresh rosewater heart. Some dry wood notes go parallel with the rose, making it less airy and more oriental. A sweet, woody and ambery base is made to take the oriental rose for a ride in the clouds on Aladdin's magic carpet. It has a certain dry, dusty, powdery feeling that we know from our mom's cozy and comfy perfumes – but also I should say once again that May rose is the perfect center for every perfume. Loud perfumes are good for a moment, but gently whispering perfumes can sing longer. I`d wear it during Siberian winters – the gray rose has warming properties.
Accendis 0.2 starts sweet and gourmand, with a coconut-toffee accent and the warm, balsamic tonality of a confectionery shop or coffee house, with home-made chocolates and pastries. It reminds me of Tart Au Chocolat, or Sachertorte, covered with coconut flakes. Later, a deep woody shade with a little touch of smoke enters into the gourmand perfume – and from that time the toffee and the woody parts exchange nuances with each other. So the Accendis 0.2 perfume is neither overly sweet nor macho woody – but still it has a rich, warm texture that can best be compared to a camel-colored cashmere overcoat. The Intensity of Accendis 0.2? Maybe in terms of calories? I could feel completely full just by looking at a piece of Sachertorte. The woody, chocolat smoke of the base notes are better fitted for men.  
I would definitely confirm that the third fragrance in the Accendis collection, Aclus, is completeness in a bottle. It`s a full-bodied, sweet-balsamic and woody oriental perfume, contemporary and dense. It seems made to fit the taste of picky Arabian princes – fresh and sporty at the start, spicy-interesting during its development and ambery-woody-smoky in the base, with a mineralic leather accent. That’s the perfume construction you'll get every day, with every wearing.
The Accendis perfumes are all different but share a common quality – all of them have a smoky feeling. Rosy smoke, chocolate cake smoke, and perfume smoke. Seems like they would be great in Oriental layering habits.
Top notes: Davana, Galbanum;
Heart notes: May Rose, Cypriol;
Base notes: Benzoin, Sandalwood, Lorenox.
Top notes: Peru balsam, Black Pepper;
Heart notes: Guaiac wood, Cedar wood;
Base notes: Labdanum, Oud wood.
Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon;
Heart notes: Orris, Cistus absolute, Angelica, Davana, and Cardamom;
Base notes: Cypriol, Guaiac wood, Oud wood, Gurjum balsam.

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