Luring with the Lurre: Signature Fragrances Launches a Wide Net

by: Elena Vosnaki

I may have started many a review with my growing disenchantment with the fragrant industry. In the light of the business aspect highlighted even in the pioneers of the field, it's not totally uncalled for. But luckily I find myself occasionally surprised. Which is the reason I sit down, grab my notebook and write to you, dear readers.

Signature Fragrances is a new company, operating in the UK, with a promising "under construction" website that shows a beautiful bejeweled bottle in the style of Dior's J'Adore, only darker and more promising.They do indeed promise the sun, moon and the stars: "luxury fragrance oils" is their trade and "the most pungent fragrances in the world" is their motto. I admit I immediately broke into mirthful laughter upon reading this line. Finally, someone has a sense of humor, and probably knows what makes perfume lovers tick too! Consider me positively predisposed.

When a sample vial arrived in the mail, to introduce me to the experience of the new fragrance oils that launch on November 25th, the envelope was already smelling quite potently. To the average perfume swapper that usually means a leaking (or worse, broken) vial. But no, nothing was damaged, it was just that the fragrance was itself so potent that the smell was throwing out of its protective organza bag. Consider me tickled with joy.

An article appearing on Base, which the makers quote on FB states: "What if you met someone for the first time and your perfume made more of an impact on them than you? Now, Signature Fragrances creators Solomon & Yinka candidly assert that stronger fragrances work more in your favor during a first encounter than simply smelling of nothing at all.

For Signature Fragrances London—a new perfume house born in London, the belief is that "your fragrance has the right to be smelt by others"—sounds bizarre, but at Signature Fragrances London they thrive on this. The fragrance house retails a unique collection of exotic fragrances created at an indulgent pure perfume strength, which I can honestly say blew me away at first, but as the scent settled I couldn’t help but enjoy the smooth aroma which lingered across my nose.

"Solomon Co/Founder at SF London unwittingly claims that pure perfumes are the new way forward, he says that offering the natural form of the fragrance offers you more of an emotional relationship when applying the fragrance, rekindling that unique sensory experience which perfume originally offers. "

Lurre, which is the name of the fragrance oil sample I was sent, one of many apparently in the collection (there's Lola, Un Chercher, Woody Conjure ...), came in a carded sample with the tag "incredibly popular." They didn't even need to state it, I could well understand why. The composition of this candied orange blossom, with its trail of candyfloss/cotton candy (the molecule ethyl maltol) and the engulfing white florals and fruity accents, is a sure winner in the market. On their Facebook page they even post a pic from an article I quoted on the popularity of "dessert-smelling fragrances," so you know the effect is fully intentional. Yet the result is not vulgar and there's a good balance of a hint of a darker element (patchouli?) with the caramelic goodness that won't add inches to your waist (one might as well think that sweet fragrances act as a modern diet-sticking aid).

Lurre manages to both eschew the overtly synthetic berries of Aquolina's best-sellingPink Sugar (the berry is subdued) and to embrace its fun, partying nature all the same. The candied part reminds me of the sweet overlay on white flowers that boomed and wooed through a limited edition L'Artisan composed by a famous perfumer recently, and even though neither that one nor this one is exactly my personal style, I can see the appeal: sweet, projecting, unapologetic scents have a way with perfume lovers! Lurre is described in the official material as "golden, fruity, subtle, modern and unforgettable" and I can attest to at least 80% of the claims. It's memorable, for sure, though not unforgettable and it has made me look at the brand with an interested eye. Consider me won. I'm now intrigued by "Un Chercher," my personal inquisitiveness piqued by its descriptive name.