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sábado, 12 de março de 2016

Jeanne Arthes Sultane L'Eau Fatale: Luxury Couldn't Cost Less

by: Miguel Matos

As a perfume writer, and with so many exciting new perfumes that I have the opportunity to smell and wear, one could expect me to be a fume snob. I could only spray my skin with the rarest and costliest of the niche perfume editions and look down upon drugstore and mainstream fragrances. But no. I find an immense joy in discovering that beautiful gems can cost as little as 10 euros (100ml) like this wonderful woody oriental scent called Sultane L'Eau Fatale byJeanne Arthes. Who said that you have to pay hundreds for a good perfume?
I was introduced to this blue bottle in October at the TFWA expo in Cannes, but it is only this month that this edition arrived on the market. I have been wearing it and everytime I spray it, I cannot avoid the surprise. It smells ten times its price and reminds me of some vintage glorious orientals from the past. To tell you more or less what Sultane L'Eau Fatale is about, let me draw you a map of references: take the cumin in Kenzo Jungle Elephant. Now mix it with the cinnamon, amber and resins inGivenchy Organza Indecence. Then, place it over a Mysore sandalwood background like the one in Guerlain Samsara. Dilute it a bit to get a softer sillage and include some sunbeams over heated skin. Do you get the idea?
Sultane L'Eau Fatale starts off with a soft airy and sweet introduction of cinnamon and a pinch of spices. The brand says cumin, but do not be afraid. All the spicy cumin in Sultane L'eau Fatale is present as a sensual effect and couldn't possibly bother even the most sensitive of noses. The main spice here is cinnamon. Not the confectionary cinnamon, but the woody one. It's a sultry oriental woody scent where the milky character of sandalwood is evident from the first minute. The heart of flowers is heavy in Ylang Ylang with a strong dose of salycilates to impart the solar character of the fragrance. There is a warm skin element to raise the sexy factor, allied to a carnal touch of jasmine. But the base of Sultane L'Eau Fatale is dominant from top to bottom, and the development reaches this stage very quickly. The woods shine, while we can still feel the golden shine of cinnamon.
I can't stop thinking of Organza Indecence when I wear Sultane. This is much simpler but the vibe is more or less the same. Sultane L'Eau fatale is much more delicate in sillage and projection but for 10 euros you can't possibly ask for more (it smells ten times more expensive). What remains on the skin after the drydown is a woody, spicy, solar perfume that evolves into a discreet skinscent, but you still get the occasional whiff of the seductive notes after 9 hours.
I really love this absolutely affordable scent and congratulate Jeanne Arthes on making such a stunning composition, when we rarely get such a rich vibe in high-end perfumes. If you are looking for a good old oriental with unisex potential and a contemporary polite behaviour (don't mind the somewhat synthetic ingredients), don't go broke. Too bad the bottle looks on the cheap side, even though the cap is nice and heavy. I would love to convince you to at least try this cheap thrill and share your feedback.

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