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sábado, 19 de março de 2016

Hayari Parfums Paris New Oud

by: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic

INSPIRATION
"After a triptych of female fragrances, a diptych of male fragrances and a triptych of mixed fragrances around the Rose, Nabil HAYARI and Hugues ALARD are very pleased to unveil a new chapter in the history of the house HAYARI PARIS with the creation of NEW OUD.
 
To complete his perfume collections and offer a real blend between East and West, HAYARI PARIS found its inspiration from Sheherazade’s One Thousand and One Nights, tales which used to fascinate the sultan every evening before he fell asleep. Thus, we imagine the queen wearing an exquisite cocktail dress with a few drops of a mysterious woody aroma. Likewise, we visualize with great delight the strong and naughty Aladdin, enjoying a few drops of this same fragrance.
 
Nabil Hayari also wished to bring out a sweet orange blossom scent as a tender souvenir of his childhood garden where orange trees used to bloom under the golden sun.  To finish, the tuberose partners with oud wood in order to make this dream into a contemporary perfume. Since the XVIth century, this flower’s particular smell has captivated perfumers and artists. Zola even declares in Nanathat 'when tuberoses decompose, they have a human smell,' hence their enigmatic and captivating scent. Indeed, even after they have been gathered, tuberose flowers continue to diffuse their smell" - explained Nabil and Hugues.
 
New Oud is a sensual perfume created around a seductive, rich and powerful oud contrasting with a green and fresh tuberose, signed by perfumer Cécile Zarokian.
 
OUD

gives sensual, warm, mystical nuances in the composition
TUBEROSE

is heady, persistent, round
PATCHOULI

accents the powerful, woody and smokey side of the composition
ORANGE BLOSSOM

shares its sweet, pure 
and soothing aroma
Cecile Zarokian, perfumer
Dear Cecile shared a few words with me about her inspiration and the unique combination of the notes she chose for New Oud
"For Hayari New Oud I thought about what could be an unsual combination with oud: so I wanted to try to combine tuberose with oud as I have not smelled that often in the market. Indeed it was quite challenging to balance the green and fresh notes of the tuberose with a warm and opulent oud.
Also I wanted the fragrance to have a powerful sillage but  not to be too overwhelming as tuberose can be quite narcotic and oud is very rich and heavy. The result at the end is a creamy but fresh tuberose that leads little by little to a charismatic leathery spicy oud, a very oriental fragrance." Cecile Zarokian 
THE PERFUME
"The first inspiration of this mixed perfume is the collection of female fragrances dedicated to white flowers. This time, the tuberose appears, fascinating, powerful and enigmatic. Its intoxicating and alluring scents bring a fresh start to the travel invitation of this new opus introduced by the designer.
 
The floral and vegetal aspects of the tuberose, the green resin, offer an olfactive dream both in contrast and in harmony with the orange blossom notes, creamy and fruity. It is this bright wake that opens the door to the following trip, that boards to leathery and animal oud notes. This blend of oud and tuberose is a first in perfumery, hence the name of the perfume "NEW OUD".
 
This walk and homage to the East created in collaboration with Cécile Zarokian transports you to a sacred meditation in which the oud essences mixed with the spicy notes of saffron express an ultimate refinement. Wearing NEW OUD is asserting the rich and subtle dimension of one’s personality, an invitation to eternal life, an oriental interpretation of French savoir-faire." - Hayari Paris
 

edition 2016

perfumer
Cecile Zarokian
 
top notes
orange blossom, bitter orange, petit grain

heart notes
tuberose, saffron

base notes
papyrus, vetiver, cade

MY IMPRESSIONS:
 
Luckily, today I received the samples from Hayari Paris to share my first impressions with you and the opportunity to pre-announce it as a one of the novelties we can expect at Esxence in Milan at the end of the month.
 
Some time ago, when I heard that Hayari will launch New Oud, I knew it must be quite different than most common interpretations of oud on the market. Oud has so many faces; metalic, caramel like, strong dry & woody, baslamic; we all perceive it as a traditional Arabic/Oriental ingredient. I really adore its power and intensity in perfumes. Over time I have come to enjoy it more and more in perfumers' work and appreciate the  new and non-traditional combinations.
 
Here we have a love story between masculine and strong, woody oud and loveliest and the most seductive "lady", tuberose. They are in strong love together, surounded by shadows of tobbaco notes and dry woodsy/leathery notes. The first drops of perfume give a sharp and very strong kick of oud, highlighted with orange blossom, but its just for a few moments. I can't detect the flowers though their lightness and sparkle are prominent and give a delicate sweetness to the agarwood note.  
 
Oud is a leader here waiting for his lady tuberose to show up and seduce! Woodsy notes are dry (not dusty or earthy), bold, smooth and just a bit juicy. Rich and intoxicating whiskey aromas makes the woody start more interesting. Over time, flowery notes are more exposed and surrounded with a beautiful dark chocolate odor. Clear tuberose is the center of attention with all its glory, while the wood is just a well-mannered follower. This part of the composition is my favorite, actually I adore it on my skin. It brings a different type of strength than the intensive woody start; it is creamy, with a strong character, more feminine. 
 
I presume Hayari New Oud and Zarokian will receive many great compliments. I can't wait to read reviews from the others who try it.
 

HAYARI NEW OUD
 will be available as an Eau de Parfum (20%) in 100 ml/3.4oz at the price of 176€.

We will report about New Oud by Hayari from Esxence 2016 and share others' experiences and impressions with you soon!


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