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sábado, 19 de março de 2016

Fragrance Review: Marquetry by Etro (2015)

Summary: One of Etro's Newest unisex fragrances, Marquetry represents the art of inlaid woodwork and is a sumptuous oriental blend of lavender,vanillagalbanum and amber.
Three lucky commenters will receive 1ml samples of Marquetry!
Perfumer: N/A
Try this if you like: Vanilla or amber fragrances; lavender aromas that are neither straightforwad nor herbal; orientals with a green, galbanum-tinged edge; a touch of peach.
Reminds me of: Marquetry wears like the lovechild of Caron pour un Homme and Must de Cartier. Also recalls fragrances like Krazy Krizia, Ormonde Jayne Tolu,Benetroessere Raving by Etro, Moschino by Moschino, Lancaster Concentree, & Monteil Royal Secret (original).
Pros & Cons: Marquetry is one of Etro's more approachable fragrances considering the brand's rather avant garde compositions. Though the aroma is immediately familiar (a resinous, ambery vanilla), it is quite simply a successful symphony on a well-known theme - vanilla and lavender - but with some rather unusual highlights.

Examples of marquetry; top by Thomas Quine.
For example, though galbanum has been blended with vanilla and amber in other scents - I'm most reminded of Cartier's Must - I have yet to come across the same accord with the added touch of lavender, and that makes all the difference (and Must has been reformulated to ruin as of late).
The development of Marquetry is also fascinating as it moves from herbal greens to warm ambery resins.
The bottle and packaging are quite stunning but the price is rather steep and the longevity and sillage are only moderate.
Notes: Top notes are bergamot, lavender and peach; middle notes are galbanum, tonka bean, peru balsam and rose; base notes are amber, vanilla, labdanum, coumarin and musk.
Designer’s Description: “In the secret rooms of the realms of the Maharajah and the Renaissance ateliers, skilled and patient craftsmen have been passing down the meticulous technique of inlay works for centuries: marquetry, that is the art of mixing minuscule pieces of ivory and hard stone, fragments of mother of pearl, fragrant tapestries of ebony and rosewood, slivers of precious metals and thin layers of lacquer, which time after time combine to create incredible and extremely elaborate designs on tabourets, treasure chests and jewelry.
From this ancient decorative tradition, which can transform even the most mundane object into a work of art, and from whom the unmatched masters were the goldsmiths of the Gem Palace of Jaipur, Etro announces an exclusive perfume tradition, a luminous and multifaceted essence, in perfect harmony with the cosmopolitan spirit of the maison.
 
The fragrance, which comes in a bottle decorated with a golden Paisley tattoo, as always belonging to the Etro iconography, opens with an overture of bergamot, lavender and peach, with an iridescence like freshly-dyed silks laid out to dry in the wind before a storm. At its heart, like the central inlays of the ancient sarpech, the grand and elaborate clasps on a turban, is the full-bodied sensuality of the rose, the aromatic cabochon gem surrounded by nuances of tobacco and the almond of the tonka bean, the green reflected light of galbanum - a bush whose leaves are refreshed by the nocturnal rains on the high plains of Persia - and the cocoa-scented accents of the Peruvian balsam which, according to the South American shamans, are considered to be a key ingredient in ointments which bring good luck. At its base - the rarest gemstone of the freshly completed inlay, which was once polished by the artists of the Mogul courts with a veil of agate powder - Marquetry celebrates the triumph of resins: a duet of amber with sweet liqueur notes of labdanum, musk sweetened with a highlight of vanilla which opens the heart and mind. Like a talisman for the soul which opens up tender horizons of happiness."  Barneys.com
 
Number of times tested: 5 over the last 3 weeks.
Number of sprays applied for this review: 2 sprays to the back of hand from a new EDP bottle sent to me by Etro (2016).
Fragrance strength: Eau de Parfum
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): The nutty, bitter green galbanum pairs well with the lavender and together these two notes dominate the opening. But Marquetry is a kaleidoscopic swirl, soon moving away from its galbanum opening to reveal the oriental facets of vanilla, amber, and tonka. Throughout this opening, a hint of peach sweetens things and the lavender never totally disappears. The effect is rather like the paisley pattern of an Etro textile. As the scent moves forward, a rose blooms but for a moment and then the musky resins carry the vanilla and lavender theme through to the drydown.

An Etro scarf
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) 2 sprays lasted 4-5 hours with the warm ambery basenotes subtly sticking around even longer.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) As a quiet scent, Marquetry offers modest sillage, never loud but as an oriental stronger than many of the brand's more fleeting offerings (I'm looking at you Etro Musk!).
Note about the packaging: The traditional, glass bottle with gold cap has been adorned with the classic Etro paisley in gold much like a henna tattoo. The bottle is housed in a black and white paper box with the same classic paisley print and purple accents.
Where can I buy it? A 100ml EDP spray retails for $220 USD at Barneys.com.
The Bottom Line: Marquetry was one of the fragrances I was most excited about after my experience at NYC Elements Showcase 2016. I have recently become a lavender fiend and the moment this hit my skin I knew it was true love. Marquetry is a complex and well-blended lavender - comfortable, rich but completely easy to wear.
As a long time fan of Etro's fragrances - many of which have sadly been discontinued such as Messe de Minuit, Sandalo, Lemon Sorbet and Mahogany - I'm always curious to see what the Italian brand will come up with next. Marquetry fits right in with the collection and in some ways I'm also reminded of Magot with its warm, fuzzy lavender and iris pairing.
One of the biggest drawbacks in my humble opinion (which might be a plus for others) is that after the first hour, Marquetry becomes rather quiet and I have to press my nose to my skin to be reminded that I'm wearing it. Moreover, I have to spray quite a lot on to be able to perceive it at all; I find I have this problem quite often with lavender-themed fragrances in general, and with Etro fragrances more specifically. For an EDP and at the price of over $200 USD, I'd expect just a little more.
Still, to have found a fragrance that so perfectly blends some of my most favorite notes, I'm happy to spray with abandon. This is the first time I've encountered a galbanum and lavender fragrance and I'm pleased to have found a new take on an old theme.
Are you an Etro fan?
What is your favorite fragrance from the line?
Three lucky commenters will receive 1ml samples 
of Marquetry!
Comment by April 1st, 2016; winner will be chosen by author and notified by Fragrantica private message.


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