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domingo, 27 de março de 2016

Burdin. Blast From the Past

by: Juliett Ptoyan

It's really tough not to compare the present time with past ones (less hurry-scurry and without tons of flankers) when you're talking about Burdin. And the reason for it hides not in their background (see below), but only in their scents: a bit old-fashioned, yet contemporary and absolutely charming. Veronique Nyberg did it well – she had captured the right mood and translated the language of three vintage fragrances into a modern manner - here we can find, for example, powdery iris, intelligent gourmand accents, and a glossy touch of litchi.
Les Parfums Burdin boutique in Paris
 
The history of the brand is a classical example of the 'revival' trend. The house started in 1937 with the opening of Les Parfums Burdin boutique. The Burdin family and their business partner, Maurice Bomand, created the concept of fragrance & cosmetics boutiques in Paris, which, of course, had a big success and later gave its founders an opportunity to launch their own perfumery line (and to open the second shop on Boulevard Sébastopol, 123 in the middle of the 1940's). Bottles for Burdin fragrances were designed and produced by Lalique in Nancy in the art nouveau manner; present representatives of the brand state that it was well-known not only in France, but around the world, too.
 
 
Outer packaging of Burdin's vintage edition; now on Champs-Elysees, 70
we can find a flagship store of Sephora
 
In the early 1960's, the popularity of Burdin started fading; such a demise might have been caused by several things. Firstly, the new president of France, Charles de Gaulle, set a new standard for economics and from 1958 the government took the course of the 'European model of business' and focused on the development of corporations. Secondly, the fashion industry changed: feminism, denim and minis took the stage. At the same time, major Houses launched their iconic fragrances, e.g.Madame Rochas (Rochas), Diorling (Christian Dior), Calèche (Hermès).
 
 
For the next 50 years there wasn't any news from Burdin, and only their bottles by Lalique appeared on auctions... But all changed in 2014 when Edouard (grandson of Stephan Burdin) and his wife Ingrid invited Veronique Nuberg from IFF to create three fragrances, inspired by former Burdin treasures: Paris Minuit, Tout Est si Beau and Les Beaux Jours.
 
There's a scent of beautiful spring days – a light, bright and glossy eau reminds me of morning walks through Paris in April when young, wearing a hat and cardigan and carrying a little bouquet of flowers from a local vendor. A morning with a croissant in lazy, sleepy Marais... Isn't it beautiful and so girly? By the way, this special mood is created with the special addition of litchi,, a note that livens the classic bouquet of jasmine, lilies and roses and helps it to be much mroe than a typical, vintage opening.
 
Don't get me wrong – I have nothing against vintage fragrances, but it's really easy to make this type of perfume smell cheery. So, the same trick with litchi we can find in Signorina EdT by Salvadore Ferragamo, though in Les Beaux Jours the contrast between almost aquatic freshness and floral breath is much stronger – and that's why it feels clearer and more comfortable.
 
Try it, if you are looking for: a light, powdery fragrance; something instead of Chloe Chloe; a rich yet light scent.
 
Impressions: pretty litchi, sandy & sweet vetiver; a noble face of modern classics. Longevity!
 
 
 
A tricky and treacherous fragrance which seems to start with a complex fusion of ylang and gardenia, but don't let it fool you! It has a bitter, citrusy-syrup character and looks like an art nouveau picture – the same smooth and non-linear opening is common for many and many works of these times (painting - Alphonse Mucha & The Vienna Secession; design - Lalique & Cartier) and all of them become more interesting the closer you are. In Paris Minuit you can also gather many and many white flowers (and all things you can love or hate about it – warmness, softness, sensuality). The most curious thing is the really short life of this bouquet – it fades in 15 mins and later turns to shimmering patchouli mist.
 
Try it, if you are looking for: an elegant and luxurious, white floral bouquet; a fragrance for the curious night; a scent soundtrack for a "The Great Gatsby" party.
 
Impressions: smooth, evil gardenia; rich white flowers; unusual patchouli.
 
 
Its theme is what the contemporary floral-fruity army from Sephora are typically chasing after – but only the chase and never the catch. There's not only sparkling, peachy lemonade with jasmine petals, but several other interesting moments, too: for example, sudden chamomile tea in the heart, or freshly cut violets closer to the base... All together this makes a pleasant story which can be loved by people who are just starting their relationship with the niche market.
 
Try it, if you are looking for: a safe gift for floral-fruity lovers; something in between Teazurra and Pera Granita; the pleasant fragrance for a vanity table.
 
Impressions: sudden chamomile tea; velvety violets; smooth jasmine.

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