Courreges in Blue (1983, 2011, 2014)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!

Summary: A soapy, mossy hit from early 80s Courrèges (the father of the miniskirt and space age fashion), In Blue has experienced more than a few iterations. Slightly fruity, a little bit spicy, and incredibly comforting, In Blue was developed by the same nose who created Dior’s infamous Poison (1985) … and the two couldn’t be more different.

Perfumer: Edouard Flechier

Try this if you like: Chamomile, marigold or black currant; soapy scents; a touch of aldehyde; clean, airy, subtle scents.

Pros & Cons: First of all, it’s nearly impossible to figure out just what the official olfactory pyramid is here thanks to numerous reformulations. Blue (2011) is soapy thanks to the supposed chamomile/marigold and aldehydes and as such, might come a little too close to the aroma of vintage shampoos. But don’t let all the aldehyde talk fool you; I typically stay away from aldehydes but don’t mind them here at all. Yes it is floral, but I wouldn’t categorize it as such—the floral notes create a bouquet that is but one accord amongst many here. There is an interesting woody/oriental edge to the drydown that anchors the aroma but by no means do these notes dominate at any stage of In Blue’s development. There are numerous versions to choose from, see “About the Packaging” below.

The 2014 versions

Notes: “[Original (1983)] Top notes are aldehydes, coriander, mandarin orange, marigold, basil and bergamot; middle notes are peony, black currant, tuberose, violet, peach, jasmine, rose and orange blossom; base notes are sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, oakmoss, cloves, vetiver and cedar.”—Fragrantica.com

Reminds me of: This is tough as I can’t really say that this smells like any other perfume that I’ve experienced aside from Courrèges’ Empreinte (there’s a shared moss and aldehyde accord), Decleor Aromantic (heavy marigold), and just ever so slightly, Hermès Amazone minus the narcissus.

Designer’s Description: N/A

Number of times tested: 10+ times over the last year.

Number of sprays applied for this review: Two sprays to the back of my hand from a 2011 EDP bottle I purchased.

Fragrance strength: Eau de Parfum

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) My 2011 EDP offers very little complexity in terms of development over time.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) I get around 4-6 hours from only two sprays … not exactly great for an EDP.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Though I’ve worn this one quite a bit, no one has ever inquired or commented. This leads me to believe that the sillage is reserved here. As a comfort scent that I usually wear at home or in warm weather, I don’t mind it a bit.

Note about the packaging: There are at least five different versions to note. The original EDT (left) was a rounded rectangle with gold cap and etched glass bottle (1983) while the original Parfum (1983) was in a similar though fully square glass and gold bottle. Next came the EDT in a rounded cylinder with metallic, spherical cap (yr ?). The EDP arrived in 2011 to replace the EDT when Lorience took over the license. The current version (EDP) is housed in a similar bottle as the 2011 version but this time in cobalt blue. The original packaging was a blue and gold paper box but later versions apparently were housed in a transparent plastic cylinder. The current version is housed in a cobalt blue paper box.

Where can I buy it? 100 ml EDP spray (2011) testers are as low as $22 USD on Ebay.

The Bottom Line: Courrèges is one of those fashion houses that I’ve always been aware of but never knew much about. Having started under such masters as Balenciaga, Andrè Courrèges went on to design clothing inspired by the futuristic trends of the space age 60s and 70s, experimenting with various textiles, shapes and accessories. With such an unusual vision of fashion, it is not surprising that the house’s fragrances should be equally unconventional.

I started my love affair with Courrèges fragrances in 2000 when I experiencedEmpreinte (imprint) for the first time, inspired by man’s first footsteps on the moon; hence, an imprint. I was surprised to discover a sharp, mossy oriental with heavy castoreum, rose and sandalwood. There is really nothing about it that I should like, but somehow I find the fragrance incredibly compelling. Fast forward to a few years ago when the 2011 Courrèges relaunches hit Ebay and I scooped up Eau and In Blue as well. Eau was pleasant though unmemorable, but In Blue was intriguing.

In Blue opens with cool citrus and surprising basil. This adds a bitter green facet that sticks around throughout the aroma. The focal point of In Blue, the marigold, chamomile and peony carry the top accord straight through to the basenotes of green mosses and roots. The tangy blackcurrant, peach and orange blossom sweeten the affair but remain largely imperceptible while aldehydes smooth out the entire composition creating what I call “the Dove soap effect.”

1985 advertisement

When reading reviews, I get the impression that Flechier’s original In Blue might have packed a bit more of a wallop with stronger black currant and white floral notes. Some have described the original as spicy, creamy and bold; I’m not sure I’d use any of these adjectives to describe the 2011 version. Maybe fresh, quiet and clean? What is even more puzzling is that the current offering from the Courrèges website describes In Blue as capitalizing on lavender. Huh?

So to review: An incredibly unique, soapy, mossy, tangy, and tender aroma, easily unisex, for less than $25 for a large bottle … and from the father of the miniskirt! The only problem is that I am now so intrigued about the history of this fragrance that I may need to break my budget and score both a vintage and recent bottle. ;-)

Courrèges ad: hprints.com