This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!
Summary: The first “masculine” launch from Japanese couturier Hanae Mori is a unique gourmand fougere highlighted by bright citrus, sweet jasmine and waxy cacao. Groundbreaking upon its release nearly 20 years ago as a full-fledged men’s gourmand, the aroma now fits well in the current trend of sugary, floral gourmands and as such could find an entirely new audience.
Perfumer: Unknown; please tell us in a comment below.
Try this if you like: Candy-sweet aromas, fruity aromas, lots of citrus, a touch of lavender/fougere, gourmand aromas, or a men’s scent that could easily be worn by a woman.
Pros & Cons: Sweet, sweet, sweet. Did I mention this stuff is sweet? And yet it has some interesting herbal accents thanks to the mint and lavender. And then there is vanilla, amber and chocolate! So yes, it does recall scents like Angel (for women) more than it recalls Angel for Men. Imagine an Angel Fougere!
Although sold everywhere from Sephora to Macy’s to Bergdorf Goodman (in the USA),Hanae Mori is still a designer that few have heard of and the scent is one that most guys have never tried. As such, this stuff is kind of a hidden secret that won’t be as ubiquitous as say, Polo Red (and btw, I LOVE Polo Red).
Available in EDT and EDP, though the two aren’t all that different in terms of overall vibe; if my memory serves me correctly, the EDP does indeed have richer basenotes and better longevity (I used to sell this when I worked at Nordstrom).
Notes: “Lemon, lavender, blackcurrant and spearmint, Iris, jasmine, lily of the valley and Bulgarian rose, Moss, vanilla, chocolate, amber, Tonka bean, cedarwood and sandalwood.” HanaeMoriParfums.com
Reminds me of: Polo Red and Rabanne Ultrared Homme’s zingy, sweet topnotes;Pasha’s lavender & mint; Animale Animale and Onofri Homme’s ambery florals;Balenciaga Talisman, Detaille Miles’ and Todd Oldham’s waxy, fruity basenotes; TL pour Lui and Versace Man’s sweet bubble gum vibe.
Designer’s Description: “Created from more than 50 essences, HM, Hanae Mori’s first fragrance for men, was a collaborative creative effort with her two sons, Akira and Kei, for its debut in 1998. This powerful universal scent, inspired by the sea, embodies the contrast of the Eastern seas – both great in power with calm grace.
At first spritz, you experience effervescent citrus and spearmint combined with sun-basked blooms, while woodsy warmth and smooth sandalwood anchor this dynamic blend. The result is pure sophistication—a portrait of refined power by Madame Mori’s skillful hand. With a cap inspired by the handle of a samurai sword, this bottle’s blend exudes expertise, polish and refinement—a fragrant sketch of Japan’s noble culture. The HM family crest embossed in pure platinum finishes this stately bottle - Subtle and refined.” HanaeMoriParfums.com
“Founded in 1996 with a single parfum, Hanae Mori today offers a diverse line of fine fragrances and beauty products from Paris. Named for founder Madame Hanae Mori, the first female Japanese designer to conquer the fashion runways of New York and Paris, the globally loved brand embraces the sophistication, craftsmanship, elegance, and simplicity of design that is synonymous with Mori's fashion legacy.”BergdorfGoodman.com
Number of times tested: 100+ over the last 18 years.
Number of sprays applied for this review: 2 sprays to the back of hand from a bottle I purchased.
Fragrance strength: Eau de Toilette
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) First, a clarification: My current bottle ofHM is relatively new, I’d say circa 2010. I cannot speak to reformulations unfortunately.
Ok, I chose average because while HM EDT ca 2010 is a changer, it doesn’t develop so much that it becomes a different scent. Indeed, the citrus notes at the top do dissipate as the fruity floral notes of cassis, jasmine and lily of the valley blossom. At this stage HM smells rather juicy. As these mid-notes relax, the underlying gourmands make their presence known and even the buttery iris pokes its head out. It is a delicious progression from citrus, to fruit, to ice cream for dessert with a slightly herbal edge that at times feels out of place and yet at other times smells pleasantly weird…like a drop of Pasha somehow found its way into a drop of Angel Innocent. The drydown is where the fougere pedigree really shines through.
Ok, I chose average because while HM EDT ca 2010 is a changer, it doesn’t develop so much that it becomes a different scent. Indeed, the citrus notes at the top do dissipate as the fruity floral notes of cassis, jasmine and lily of the valley blossom. At this stage HM smells rather juicy. As these mid-notes relax, the underlying gourmands make their presence known and even the buttery iris pokes its head out. It is a delicious progression from citrus, to fruit, to ice cream for dessert with a slightly herbal edge that at times feels out of place and yet at other times smells pleasantly weird…like a drop of Pasha somehow found its way into a drop of Angel Innocent. The drydown is where the fougere pedigree really shines through.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) Even in its modern EDT reformulationHM still performs for a good 7-8 hours on my skin.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Pretty much elicits compliments whenever I wear it. I think this one must be noticeable; might be wise to try just a few sprays at first.
Note about the packaging: The bottle and packaging have remained largely the same over the years: a flattened, tall, rectangular, frosted glass bottle with silver cap in the shape of a sword handle, housed in a coordinating black/grey paper box. Generally, EDP versions come in the striped box while the EDT is in a solid black box.
Where can I buy it? Found online for as little as $22 USD for a 100ml EDT Tester.
The Bottom Line: Back in 1997 there were two scents that so vividly captured my attention that I still keep both in my collection as milestones in the development of my fragrance fanaticism: One is Motu or Aqua Motu by Comptoir Sud Pacifiqueand the other is HM by Hanae Mori. I remember smelling HM for the first time, coincidentally on the same day I first experienced Motu, at Nordstrom Pentagon City in Northern Virginia just outside DC, across from you guessed it, the Pentagon. Never before had I experienced a men’s fragrance that was either so juicy or so gourmand. I mean, Joop! Homme is indeed sweet and floral, but in its own orange blossom and vanilla kind of way. I remember looking at the sales associate upon sniffing HM and saying, “Wow! Kind of reminds me of Angel (for women)!” We both agreed that HM’s lower gourmand notes were much more subtle and less powdery. Later that day after arriving home with my bottle of HM, I did a side by side of Angel and HM and sure enough the dry-downs headed in similar directions.
At the time, 1997/98, HM stood virtually on its own. Angel for Men avoided sweet gourmand territory in favor of a caffeinated fougere and even Rochas Man, launched just a few years later, headed for coffee as well; I find both of these have syrupy basenotes. As such, HM is less thick, less basenotes-heavy in its EDT strength and stronger in its citrus, berries and florals. In comparison to a modern gourmand such as Dior Homme, the iris is much less prominent and serves merely as an accent – no lipstick note here; and the chocolate notes are very subdued in HM whereas I find Dior Homme definitively a chocolate scent. The vanilla and chocolate in HM are more like whispery powder than full on scoops of ice cream. Again, it is the jasmine, lemon, and cassis that constantly stand out the most inHanae Mori HM EDT, making the drydown and sillage tangy, fresh and fruity. And hey, how about that cap representing a Samurai sword handle? Pretty nifty, huh ;-)
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