by: Miguel Matos
One of the most frequently commented perfumes here on Fragrantica is Tea Rose from Perfumer's Workshop. It's that simple, classic and feminine fragrance (at a great price) that goes well with everything, layered or by itself. A timeless true rose with green hints that is realistic and feminine. This is not a challenging scent nor does it claim to be one. Actually, there is something in Tea Rose that made me take an interest on this flower that I hated before.
The simplicity of Tea Rose has gathered a whole lot of loyal consumers since 1977 and it's an important part of the history of modern perfumery. However, there is a version of it that I have rarely read about: Parfum Tea Rose. Now this one is another story, since I think it further changed my perception on the rose note to the point of making me want to wear it. I went from being a rose hater to actually being seduced by it since I smelled and started to wear this bottle I was offered by the founder of the brand, Mr. Donald Bauchner, a wonderful, interesting and intelligent man I met at the TFWA expo in Cannes. “Tea Rose is for strong people,” said Donald. “Even after all these years, this fragrance surprises me when I smell it on the streets. People don't know how this kind of smell could be a fragrance, because it is actually a physical and visual place.”
The simplicity of Tea Rose has gathered a whole lot of loyal consumers since 1977 and it's an important part of the history of modern perfumery. However, there is a version of it that I have rarely read about: Parfum Tea Rose. Now this one is another story, since I think it further changed my perception on the rose note to the point of making me want to wear it. I went from being a rose hater to actually being seduced by it since I smelled and started to wear this bottle I was offered by the founder of the brand, Mr. Donald Bauchner, a wonderful, interesting and intelligent man I met at the TFWA expo in Cannes. “Tea Rose is for strong people,” said Donald. “Even after all these years, this fragrance surprises me when I smell it on the streets. People don't know how this kind of smell could be a fragrance, because it is actually a physical and visual place.”
Since 1977, Tea Rose has undergone some reformulation due to regulations. In this business, every few years, certain ingredients are no longer allowed to be used. But, as Donald says, “whenever that happens to an important fragrance, if you have talented master perfumers working on replicating the smell of an ingredient, synthetically or not, and if you put the time into it, you can recapture the magic. But for this to happen, time is crucial. And it happened to Tea Rose. Our newest modification will only come out in 2015 and I'm sure there will be no difference.”
Back to the main subject: the concentrated juice. It's not very useful to write about the classic Tea Rose, for there are dozens of reviews in Fragrantica. For example,Frédéric Malle once said, “This is the most classic example of a rose scent that smells fresh from nature, it’s rich but not overpowering.” Nicole Kidman once confessed she has worn Tea Rose since she was 14 years old. Princess Diana was another big fan of the fragrance. Even if it seems that everyone has spoken about Tea Rose, I must tell you about Parfum Tea Rose. First of all, this is not absolutely new, and there was a time when this blend was available in oil form. Then it made a short appearance as an eau de parfum, vanishing quickly from the counters, only to reappear now. “We stopped the eau de parfum because it was very expensive, so we just recently brought it back and placed it in a higher level of distribution in retail.” In fact, whereas the Tea Rose Eau de Toilette can cost from $10 to $15, the eau de parfum reaches the $90 price tag. But it's worth it, I assure you.
How to explain Parfum Tea Rose? Well, you take the eau de toilette that most of you know. It's the starting point. The two versions are based on the same composition, but the Parfum has its twist and takes it on a very waxy tone. It's carnal, fatty and very sexy. It's like a concentrated mature rose in full bloom. It smells like the rose plus the hot skin where it was sprayed. This is an improvement in longevity and sillage, too. Not a blushing rose, this one is a loud and proud one, still being remarkably elegant and timeless. Frankly it is the best rose soliflore I have ever smelled, and it belongs at the same glorious altar of roses as Yves Saint Laurent's Paris and Stella McCartney's Stella. And somehow it manages to be a paradox. On one hand, it's extremely feminine. On the other, it is so simple and elegant that it can easily be worn by a man. I also imagine that Middle Eastern consumers should be an interesting target for this (sprayed heavily, of course). If sprayed lightly, it can be also suitable for the Asian market. So, the versatility of this composition depends on your chemistry, and also on your way of wearing fragrance, matching your personal style. Sexy it is for sure. Classy, too. Just like the smell of hot skin ...
PARFUM TEA ROSE
Top Notes: Peony, Chamomile
Middle Notes: Tea Rose, Damask Rose, Bulgarian Rose
Base Notes: Geranium Leaves, Violet Leaves, Cedarwood
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