The art of creating fragrances and fragrancing holds the history of centuries within, which also brings with it the study of different cultures and civilizations. I still remember as a child my mother often used to tell about my grandfather's signature scent which was an attar called “Darbar,“ which he only bought it from India and in bulk so that he may never run out of it because not wearing that particular fragrance, even once, was like a nightmare for him. I think I got my fondness for Indian attars from my late grandfather. It's my honor to introduce Ali Brothers Perfumes who are one of the oldest distillers from India, established since 1939. Mohammed Moosa Khan, the current owner, who also happens to be the third generation of Ali Brothers Perfumers, will explain about attars and the methods of distillation used in India.
How was Ali Brothers Perfumers established?
Ali Brothers Perfumers was earlier founded by Mr Ali Khan by my late grandfather nearly about in the year 1939. This is my third generation who is engaged in the Essential oils, Absolutes, Attars and Hydrosols business since registration of the firm in the same year. We have always dealt with honesty and with the motto to satisfy our valued customers and providing them the best 100% pure, natural and genuine products. The business has earned a good name and fame and our products are sold just in the name of the company. Even though the owners have changed, the motto of the company has never changed. That is why it's still working with better fame with new and old clientage than any other competitors.
We have our administrative offices in Kannauj and Mumbai and distillation plants are in many parts of it where Natural Attars, ssential oils, Absolutes and Hydrosols are produced.
Your explanation would be of worth about the distillation of Attar?
Attar, called as Ittar in Urdu, is a natural perfume oil derived from botanical sources.
Distillation |
It has been used in the entire Eastern world for thousands of years and now it has also gained popularity in the Western world. The attars are manufactured by “Deg and Bhapka System” or “Hydro distillation process” in English.
The still is heated by lighting a fire with the help of wood or cow dung under it. The temperature and speed of distillation are controlled by regulating the fire.
The distillation is managed by highly skilled workers called Dighaa who is extremely expert and knows well the correct quantity of vapors have condensed inside the receiver.
When he sees the vapors have condensed, he rubs a wet cloth around the still for a temporary pause in distillation and filled receiver is replaced by another receiver and this process is done until all distillation is finished. We create our own attar blends.
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How do flowers develop their scent?
A flower has a fragrance whose certain essential oils are found in the petals. These oils are produced by the plants as part of its growing process. They are very complex and under certain conditions those substances are broken down or decomposed and are formed into a volatile oil. This oil evaporates and when this happens, we can smell the fragrance it gives off.
The type of scent a flower gives off depends on the different chemicals in the volatile oils. Various combinations produce different fragrances. These same oils can also be found in leaves, bark, roots, fruit and seeds. As an example, oranges and lemons have them in their fruit, almonds in their seeds and cinnamon in its bark. The Arabians were the first to distill rose petals with water to produce rose water. This was one thousand two hundred years ago, and we still extract perfume from flowers, roots, herbs, wood as of today.
Oudh wood
Oudh chips
What methods of distillation do you use and have you also adopted new methods of distillation?
We use different ways to extract essential oils, absolutes and attars such as steam distillation, solvent extraction, CO2 extraction and Deg and Bhapka System (for Attars).
I have never used any new methods to extract EOs. There are different extraction methods for different EOs and absolutes. Such as to extract Jasmine absolute and Tuberose, Solvent process is best, and for Ginger oil CO2 process is best, for Vetiver and Nagarmotha steam distillation is better option.
From here my question will come about Nagarmotha. Please tell us about it.
Nagarmotha oil is known as Cypriol and it is widely grown in Madhya Pradesh and it is distilled through steam distillation process. Its flower is dark brown. Its perfume note is warm, woody,s omething like vetiver and oudh.
Nagarmotha aka Cypriol
It has been used widely in Ayurvedic formulations mentioned in ancient texts of Ayurveda. Charak Samhita has indicated this herb for checking obesity, pacifying thirst, alleviating itching.V edic literature has mentioned it a herb having hypnotic properties.
Due to its abundant use, it's been given 8th rank among 250 potential anti-fertility plants in China. It is used in the production of perfumes, incense sticks, soaps, hair treatments and in flavoring tobacco products.
The remedial properties of this oil are analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, astringent, stimulant, decongestant, anthelmintic, emmenagogue, antimicrobial, stomachic, hypotensive, diaphoretic.
Its every part is useful. I mean when distillation is complete, its powder doesn't go bad, it's used in making Incense sticks (Agarbathi) to give a woody note.
Vetiver is widely used in India and not only in India, it is almost used every in fragrance to give a woody note. How is it distilled?
Vetiver (Khus), its scientific name is Vetiveria Zizaniodes, is a perennial grass native to India. Vetiver oil is prepared by steam distillaton process. First of all roots are washed thoroughly with fresh water and then dried so that all dirt and sand may remove. This oil in India is considered the best and it's called here Ruh Khus. It is dark green in color, one drop of it is applied on skin and it can last for many days.
Vetiver
It's not only used in perfume industries but also used in cosmetics, food and beverages industries and for medicinal purposes. It's used in anti-inflammatory, cicatrisant, antiseptic, aphrodisiac, vulnerary. It's much used in Ayurvedic medicines to relieve in arthritis, rheumatism, muscular pain and insomnia etc.
What is the difference between oil-based fragrances and attar?
Oil based fragrances are those fragrances which are made with many EOs or Synthetic materials and their base is alcohol. It can be used directly on skin. There can be many essential oils and chemicals to make these types of fragrances such as room fresheners, care perfumes, body sprays etc.
While Attars are made with flowers, wood, roots of plants and trees particles and their base is mostly Sandalwood oil. Attars have no any side effects if directly applied on the skin or clothes and their may have an therapeutic effects but oil based perfumes cannot be used in therapeutic way. They might be harmful due to the use of alcohol.
Many years ago there was a huge market of attars but now, the art is dying and people's interest has shifted to mainstream and celebrity fragrances?
There is still a good market for Attars and I don't think celebrity fragrances gave a bad impact on attars, rather their popularity has increased.
I am grateful to Moosa Khan for providing invaluable information about attars!
Photos by Ali Brothers Perfumers
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