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segunda-feira, 21 de dezembro de 2015

New Bipolar Perfumes - Lengling Munich

by: Miguel Matos

Ursula and Christian Lengling are the founders of the new German perfume house, Lengling, based in Munich. The brand presented to the market in 2015 a first group of seven scents based on a duality concept, like in the traditional idea of Yin and Yang. Marc Vom Ende is the perfumer who signed all of the collection and he worked following an idea not based on the three-part pyramid, but on the clash and combination of two forces, two accords. Two parts that complement each other. Leng and Ling.
The first series in the Lengling brand is the collection named “Extraits de Sentiment”. I received a sample box and was impressed by the elegant and simple presentation. I loved the design of the logo and the overall image. Another interesting feature is how the perfumer presents the raw materials, specifying the synthetics as ingredients with as much dignity as the naturals. Sincerity is an important element in Lengling, I suppose. As for the bottles, they look great, in a standard design already in use by other brands such as Rania J. and Mendittorosa. “The stylish perfume bottle also embodies our concept in a slick interplay of distinctive design and sophisticated curves. It is finished with a special 'fire polishing' technique that refines the bottle and transforms it into an utterly stunning, radiant trinket. The silver cap is a deeply personal homage to Munich. Every single one of our 'Isar pebbles' has been polished by hand, making each one a unique and valuable stone that is a delight to hold in the hands”, it says on the Lengling website.
Launch event of Lengling Munich
Lengling is not a very challenging line. It sometimes verges on the mainstream commercial themes, but always bringing something interesting, even if it's just a dissonant note that makes a difference, no matter how small. I tested all the perfumes and was mesmerized by a couple of them. The fragrances have small stories and ideas that you can discover in the official website. Here are my first impressions of all Lengling creations:

EL PASAJERO
LENG-Note: “Brilliant diamond” - Fucus Absolute, Amber, Hedione, Galbanum
LING-Note: “Silky magnolia” - Magnolia, Vanilla, Osmanthus Absolute, Benzoin
El Pasajero on my skin is a metallic white musk scent with floral undertones and a woody facet. I find it quite challenging because of the metallic notes, which I think are a reflex of the use of fucus. It becomes a woody marine fragrance with some powder and magnolia to soften it up. After some time, my skin didn't want to let it go but my nose became tired of it. It's not very far from vintage Pierre Cardin Yseult.

SKRIK
LENG-Note: “Raw cedar” - Iso-e-Super, Hedione, Petitgrain, Sandalwood
LING-Note: “Soft vanilla” - Vanilla, Lavandin Grosso, Tonka, Musk
What most struck me in this scent was an extremely fresh start that seemed to me like mint, although it has no mint in the official list. Then it transformed into an aromatic fougère, but then again it must have been my distorted brain, for the only aromatic element given by the brand is lavender. I would swear it has sage and thyme but I guess not. Vanilla and musk dominate the base notes in this abstract perfume.

ACQUA TEMPESTA
LENG-Note: “Dangerous smoke” - Marihuana, Olibanum, Vetiver Haiti, Cedarwood
LING-Note: “Fresh water” - Aquatic Notes, Hedion, Peppermint, Elemi
An interesting contrast between aquatic and smoky accords. Surprising and apparently a paradox. This is one of those ideas that shouldn't work but it does. A brilliant work that is always crossing the line between water and fire. And in the end, once we get used to the idea, it's not hard to wear at all. What starts cold and cerebral, ends in a spicy, sexy way. Marc vom Ende has made a truly remarkable composition here.

IN BETWEEN
LENG-Note: “Youth” - Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla, Rosewood
LING-Note: “Maturity” - Jasmine Sambac, Violet, Muguet, Peach
This is a very well-constructed, very well-mannered, no surprises Fruity-floral youthful gourmand with an undeniable commercial appeal and a flawless composition. In Between has the fault of being a bit deja vu, considering all the offers in mainstream perfumery with the same kind of smell. I was looking for an example, but the effect became so generic, I can't name just one.

EISBACH
LENG-Note: “Effervescent energy” - Bergamot, Spearmint, Grapefruit, Cassis Absolute
LING-Note: “Wisdom and harmony” - Green Tea Absolute, Mimosa Absolute, Basil Comores, Lavandin Grosso
Spices open up this fresh and tingly perfume in the first seconds. Then bergamot quickly appears and brightens it even more. A most beautiful, resplendent, vivid bergamot, I must say. The juicyness seems green and wet. Energetic and uplifting with hints of mint too. Eisbach is kicking with joy as we feel basil and lavender making their entrance with an elegant aromatic boost. The spices come and go but since the list has no mention of spices, I assume this must be the effect of japanese green tea, like a gunpowder facet. Antidepressant in the form of scent!

À LA CARTE
LENG-Note: “Fatal oud” - Oud, Sandalwood Australia, Styrax, Olibanum
LING-Note: “Sugary delicacies” - Pistachio, Toffee, Pink Pepper, Vanilla
A delicious outburst of oud and gourmand tones. Sweet sugary patchouli (not listed, my nose is imagining things again and I swear I am not drunk) and caramel clash with medicinal oud to combine in a mouthwatering sensation. Deep and rich, it fills my nose with density. For the candy lovers, here's a good choice with a nice powdery heart and woody base.

SEKUSHI
LENG-Note: “Leather” - Leather, Patchouli, Olibanum, Musk
LING-Note: “Fruity sugar” - Candyfloss, Raspberry, Apricot, Muguet
An adolescent smell of candyfloss, reminiscent of Pink Sugar and Lulu Castagnette Lol. There is a later bitterness that comes from a leather accord which makes this a bit more interesting, but the candy-fruity thing is dominant in the opening. With this one, you really need to give it time to unfold a rather beastly secret inside. A Bi-polar perfume, this one is.

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