by: Miguel Matos
It's inevitable, when reaching this time of the year. We all make mental or written lists. Lists of what to achieve in the next year. Lists of what to avoid in the next year. Things to gift others for Christmas... But also things we would like to receive, why not?
My biggest wish for 2016, besides health and happiness to all my beloved ones, is to make a living exclusively from the perfume industry and not having to work with anything else. It was also my wish for 2015 and I see it coming closer in the future. I stopped wishing for world peace because my faith in the human kind is now gone. I just wish that things won't get even worse.
Image from notonthehighstreet.com
So in all this wishing and longing, hopes and delusions are always a reason to get a little anxious. When it comes to the material world, I also get anxious when I am near some objects of my desire, and here is a list of perfumes I need to have in my collection and on my skin. Now! Urgently! Please! Anyone? ;)
Funkyness realness. I got used to wearing Mouchoir de Monsieur in the summer, so the natural progression would be wearing Jicky in the winter, but it should be the Parfum concentration, which has all the glory of the traditional composition, only amped up to the maximum, and the bottle is beautiful. Still a bit shocking today, as I like it.
What a surprise. Being a lover of all things heavy, this caught me because of the delicate tones, the super elegant and minimal brightness and also its originality struck me. I smelled this a couple of months ago and I can't get it out of my head. What a wonderful, soft lavender married to iris and a smoky tea accord. It's carefree and the epitome of happiness.
This was the perfume of my early 20's and I had about 4 bottles of it. Now I feel like I want to have it again, but only in Eau de Parfum concentration. The bottle is still stunning, the composition is still unique and it survives the passing of the years. What a sultry oriental powerhouse! Amber, anise, tolu, pepper... Delicious!
Sorry to bring this up again, after a couple of articles praising its artistry, but it is really important. Few perfumes had me in awe like this masterpiece on flowers and animalic undertones with a dynamite touch. There is a tension inside this creation by Italian artist Antonio Alessandria and I even wonder if I could wear it without being emotional everytime I spray.
“Why don't I have this?” - I ask myself all the time. I love vintage floral aldehydes and this is one of the best. I should start saving coins until I can afford it. Close toChanel Nº5, Lanvin Arpège and Guerlain Liu, Baghari is even better than all of these. So please Santa, give it to me.
I once had a bottle of vintage Magie Noire from the 70's on my hands. It was for sale in a flea market in the north of Portugal and the seller asked me only 10 euros for it. At that time I didn't know it was extremely rare and I bought vintage Guerlain Samsara instead. Stupid man I was. Samsara was still a good purchase, of course. But I love Magie Noire so much and I regret that day.
A modern floral animalic with a glimpse of the past. Leather and tuberose dance together, enveloped by fresh notes and vapours. It all comes down to delicious dirtiness at the end and that's right up my alley. What a scandalous chypre for the new millennium!
One big surprise this year at Pitti Fragranze. A detour from the usual style of this Italian perfumer. Yes, it smells like a rose plantation inside the zoo, near the elephant cages. The idea seems strange but it really works and it's a thing of beauty. Wrap it in pink please!
Another one I regret not buying. A sister of Cabochard, Aramis, Empreinte andBandit. I love it and I found it only once in Berlin. Never again have I seen it. Apparently, after many years under the counters at shops, it is now reedited byEstée Lauder but I don't know if the reformulation is good or not. I always thought that if I have all of the aforementioned scents, I wouldn't need Azurée. But I do. To have the complete family.
A threshold on light and shadows. A battle of clean and dirty. The contrast of citrus and civet. Oh heavens, I love this. And after being reissued, the bottle is gorgeous. It would be among my treasures, for sure. Long live this creation by Mona di Orio, and you can wrap it in black with a transparent ribbon.
Now that I finally started loving oud (yes only now, I arrived late), there are some scents I would like to own. I discovered what oud is all about only recently with the Dubai brand Ajmal. Turns out that the only ouds I love are the real arabian funky things. The fecal dirty oud, not the European fantasy of it. Another oud I smelled recently and fell in love was this big animalic punch from Al Haramain. Need it!
I may seem greedy, but I am sorry. Like Marlen, when it comes to perfume, I am not satisfied with samples and smelling it only once. I need to have and hold on to full bottles for future reference and for the pleasure of spraying lavishly without thinking of saving it for a special occasion. The full experience. Oh, and owning the bottles for the visual pleasure, of course. So here is my Christmas list, hoping that at least one of them comes to me. Now do tell me, do you share some of my cravings? What is your list?
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