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domingo, 15 de novembro de 2015

Golden Winter 2015

by: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic

Not as intensively as black editions during the past few years, golden ones come to us in a more discrete way, by subtly overwhelming the perfume scene, particularly this autumn and winter. While we are focused on new houses and new perfume collections, which overflow with limited editions and redesigned editions, gold-inspired fragrances are losing track, are not in the focus or come in ‘waves'. One of those waves splashed us in 2013, and also this year is truly characteristic for a large number of editions inspired by gold.  
Gold as a symbol of power, prestige, wealth and luxury is interpreted in various ways, depending on the message that the designers conveyed with their creations. Some of the messages do not have a clear relationship with gold and its beauty, whereas others excel in this topic. I would say that the story about golden fragrance deserves our attention, because some of the new golden editions are truly worth testing and talking about. We live in times where everything goes quickly, is launched and presented, but then goes out of fashion, so I want the fragrances worth mentioning to find their place and our respect in the long run. It is time for a golden winter and golden holidays, even if just in our world of perfumes!  
During the past few years we had an opportunity to follow the launch of special editions designed only for certain markets or individual stores, making them exclusive or prestigious. Among them are excellent perfumes which were initially available only in a few places in the world, while remaining frustratingly unavailable to the rest of us. They are characteristic for their gold-colored flacons, exuding luxury and beauty, but also by their high quality compositions (Narciso Rodriguez Amber Musc, YSL collection Oriental, Lancome L'Outre OudLancome Oud Bouquet, Versace Oud OrientalL'Occitane Oud & RoseArmani Prive Sable OrArmani Prive Rose d'Arabie L'Or du Desert  and many more). Some of them first appeared in the Middle East, and were later promoted and launched in European and Asian counties and the US, while others remained solely on the shelves of certain perfumeries or travel retails, making them ‘untouchable’ or very difficult to obtain for perfume fans all over the world. 
The golden winter is definitely in front of us, if we take a look at this year’s trend, which is being enhanced with each new edition. The golden winter has several versions: many key editions are inspired by gold, are named after gold, contain golden particles or even a shimmer that lingers on our skin in unison with the perfume; or they have gold-colored flacons, decorated with golden ornaments. The new golden wave sends us the message it’s time for glamor, for splendor, for a touch of luxury. Even a small dose of golden glow can make our day nicer, because gold shines like the summer sun and warms our soul. Golden make-up, golden accessories, golden hair pieces and jewelry look wonderful in the ‘craziest night’, while the perfumes we see in this year’s offers can be our every day companion with a golden signature. Whether it be with their name, composition, design or gold dust, golden editions truly take the lead this time of year. 
Bvlgari has recently launched the fragrance Goldea, which is set against editions like Versace Eros Pour Femme and Paco Rabanne Olympea, and is inspired by light and gold. As a goddess of light, Bvglari’s Goldea shines with a soft, smooth and creamy union of ylang and vanilla, additionally warmed with musk. Subtle, unpretentious, calm. Her beautiful flacon cannot go unnoticed on perfumery shelves, while the composition, at least on my skin, is not so glamorous, golden or intense as I expected for a fragrance that provides a golden godess' golden powers. I will wait for cold, snowy days to test it again and see whether it will glow in full shine on my skin and offer the golden experience. I have not fallen for her, so far.  
Cartier Must Gold is the new fragrance by the house of Cartier, launched as a modern version of the cult fragrance Must de Cartier by Cartier, from 1981. Everything suggests the golden theme: a golden-yellow liquid, its name, but also notes that highlight the sunny golden, honey-based and fruity flavors of osmanthus and galbanum resin, softened with vanilla and gentle green freshness. Besides it, Cartier presented the collector’s edition La Panthere Edition Noel in a flacon with a relief panther, embellished with golden dots, but also the new edition, Oud Radieux of the collection Les Heures Voyageuses in a gold-color flacon. Its woody-spicy composition is woven with notes of Sichuan pepper, oud and ginger. 
After the edition J'Adore L'Or, a significantly more luxurious version of the classicJ'Adore that exudes a golden atmosphere and brings a rich and high quality composition, Dior is launching an oil version this autumn, in a flacon with iridescent shades of gold, thus creating a brand new relation between their customers and the perfume itself. J'Adore Touche de Parfum requires placing the fragrant liquid on pulsing places to create an irresistible game of Indian Sambac jasmine absolute, Damascus rose absolute and milky creamy sandalwood essence from Sri Lanka, which is warmed additionally by the warmth of our skin. Its role is dual: it can serve as a base for other perfumes that you wear, but also as a unique fragrance that lingers on the skin for a long time and decorates it as if it were a kind of golden jewelry. 
Some of the houses offered their well-known compositions in new bottles, aimed at collectors and designed in the spirit of the holidays. Among these are Burberry My Burberry Festive, with the original composition of My Burberry enriched with golden glitter inside the flacon; Nina Ricci Nina Edition d'Or in a golden apple-shaped bottle which contains the composition of L'Eau d'Toilette Nina; Elie Saab Le Parfum L'Edition Argent holiday edition for 2015, hiding the composition of Elie Saab le Parfum from 2011.
Elizabeth Arden introduces a more intense version of Untold, adding another edition to the modern and feminine Untold collection. Untold Luxe is characteristic for its yellow-golden liquid, golden details on the bottle and a ‘golden composition’, where the main roles are awarded to white flowers, white chocolate, cinnamon, hot resins and creamy wood. The new version of the fragrance exudes a ‘golden’ character, which is sophisticated, gourmand and addictive. 
Thierry Mugler, in the edition Alien Eau Extraordinaire Gold Shimmer, plays with golden particles covering our skin when we spray the perfume, and the whole composition exudes luminous freshness and gentle, sunny, golden glitter. In contrast to this edition, the Arabic market was offered Alien Oud Majestueux in a flacon with iridescent shades of dark gold, containing a union of Alien and the Orient. A recognizable blend of jasmine, sunny notes, amber and wood is now mixed with saffron, cloves and oud, making clear that Alien is visiting the Orient. The most beautiful edition of the Alien collection providing that luxurious golden stamp is, for me, Alien Liqueur de Parfum, which is significantly warmer, richer, more opulent and has more shades than the original.

Lolita Lempicka Minuit d'Or belongs to the traditional holiday editions of Eau de Minuit that are launched by Lolita Lempicka every year. In this golden-colored bottle one can find a fragrance characteristic for its oriental-woody composition, with a hint of gourmand aromas. This year, it is just a collector’s flacon, since the notes remain the same (licorice, myrrh, jasmine, iris concrete, vanilla, benzoin).
Jean Paul Gaultier Classique Intense Collector Glam Edition is this year’s limited edition aimed at collectors, with a bottle ‘dressed’ in a glittery golden corset, seen numerous times in Gaultier’s Classique collection (editions: Gold CollectionClassique IntenseClassique Rock Star). Its composition repeats the notes of the Classique Intense version from 2014.

Paco Rabanne 1 Million Cologne is this year’s golden collection by Paco Rabanne, arriving as refreshment after the antecedents. The composition carries the recognizable stamp of the first perfume, but is airier and much fresher. The classic editions of the collection, 1 Million Eau de Toilette and Lady Million Eau de Parfum, were launched as special holiday editions Paco Rabanne Merry Millions! (image above).
Boucheron Place Vendome White Gold is this year’s edition inspired by white gold. It is a floral-fruity composition with a warm, woody drydown (jasmine, pear, vanilla, sandalwood, pomegranate). Besides this edition, the inspiration by gold also touched the fragrances David Beckham Instinct Gold EditionTed Lapidus Pour Homme Gold ExtremeBy Kilian Gold OudMichael Kors 24 Brilliant Gold, as well as the edition in a golden-color flacon expected in December, Balmain x H&M, with its woody-floral-musk composition that might justify the flacon color. 
Among the new houses introduced this year is the niche house called Atelier des Orsthat even included the inspiration by gold in their name! The collection encompasses five fragrances, and at the Florence expo it presented special collector’s flacons designed to accentuate the beauty of gold, but also the beauty of the collection’s bottles. The house of Atelier des Ors is characterized by golden particles in all perfume bottles. This is not the only house which uses genuine gold particles in perfume bottles. We already covered fragrance Imperio Lusso 24K which also contains gold inside its flacon (article: Imperio Lusso Italy 24K - Interview with  Pier Calandra)

One of my favorites among the golden new editions is the latest perfume by the house of Kajal, called Dahab, which was presented in Cannes just a few weeks ago. Its name, just like its composition, depicts the story of gold in a comprehensive and very intoxicating way. The fragrance is oriental-fruity with clear, intense, golden shades conveyed by the notes of the composition. You will find out more about this edition, as well as about the men’s edition Kajal Homme soon.
Aside from the new editions alluding at gold, only a few fragrances truly leave the impression that they fit the theme. I would like to highlight together with you all the fragrances that really depict gold, both with their bottles and their compositions. I will begin with a few of my propositions to start a list that will help someone to select their favorite golden fragrance! 


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