by: Juliett Ptoyan
The Roman brand Arte Profumi is decidedly different; the creators are not fond of myth-making and pay direct attention to the fragrances - and this position, in general, provides them the status of niche brand (in the original term), and insiders' respect.
There's only three people behind the brand - the director Michele Iannone, his sister Mariagrazia, and wife Monica; their perfume background began with two boutiques which Michele and Mariagrazia's parents ran from the 1960's through the 1980's, and in 2013 it led to the creation of their own line.
Arte Profumi team
I can consider all of the eaux as subtle, elegant, soft and slow to unfold their magic; they are very tactile - from tapestry Velvet Rouge, through cashmere Mitti, to laceSecret; - the nose travels! They are as noble and mature as the beauty of the two Italian women working on them, Monica and Mariagrazia.
They can all be considered gourmand, but you cannot find any gourmand stamps here: they are to be explored, distributed... you may merge with them.
In one of his interviews, Jean-Claude Ellena said that a
fragrance is completed when it answers all of your questions;
Arte Profumi, in this case, makes for interesting companions:
you don't need to add anything to their "words".
Today I'll discuss the 9 aromas which can be divided into 4 groups: oriental (Harem Soirée, Sucre Noir), nostalgic (Velvet Rouge, Secret, Fumoir), natural (Mitti) and fresh (Bohèmien, O-Furo, EcclesiÆ).
Oriental
Try it if you like: Pierre Guillaume's signature; warm, volatile scents; Christian Louboutin lipstick and luxury cosmetics' packaging.
Soft, glancing, tawny, warm and slightly bitter due to cinnamon and vanilla's presence (the latter breathes quietly and close to the skin). It doesn't have the usual alcohol dry touch, or Eastern stamps, which can be found in other fragrances; it's very feminine - try to apply a drop in the decolette. Languorous - yes, the evening - of course, winter - doubtless.
Candied flowers, sparkling diamonds, bitter caramel - a slow, hypnotic and a bit lazy perfume, which breathes deeply and rhythmically. It could turn into an incredibly sexy thing, but Catholic education doesn't allow it: Sucre Noir is underscoring that fateful side of femininity, which cultivated ... well, for example, by Tinto Brass' "All Ladies Do It". Beautiful, isn't it?
Nostalgic
Try it if you like: majestic perfumes; Poême by Lancôme; light nostalgia without a hint of vintage touch.
Too brave to be positioned as a unisex: fine gloving leather, soaked in brandy; dry amber, without a hint of seaweed, and black pepper, which brings together all this dandyism. New Classics - here, not on the shelves of chain stores. No doubts!
Yes, it's burgundy velvet (and yes, it sounds very expensive). Just polished dark wood table; art deco cupboard; evening (red, velvet) dress on a hanger shoulders with silk wafting; and the smell of ginger cake from the kitchen - all together, with a bunch of roses in the heavy crystal vase. Magnificent.
Happy morning after 'Velvet Rouge' evening - a light, warm kiss goodbye; apple tea and white magnolia flowers. Sun twinking through the facets of a crystal vase, then - on a sofa, and to the window, at the snowy street. Chaste, feminine (perhaps even too much) and brilliantly done.
Natural
Try it if you like: natural perfumes;
rich scents; abstract fragrances.
Monolithic mix of mitti attar, rose absolute and labdanum, which is difficult to distinguish the individual notes and capture the transition from the flowers to the ground. It's like a puzzle, interesting.
Fresh
Try it if you like: icy absinthe; modern wormwood;
the smell of the streets in the first days of May.
Almost citrusy incense with easily dissipating smoke that leaves no associations with something religious and/or ceremonial. Be sure of its volatility: it remains on the skin up to 4-5 hours with light, dusty, hazy herbs - relatively neutral, but very well done.
Laughing, sparkling sunbeam from Fumoir, with which you fall in love once and forever - for all its herbal nature, which isn't reminiscent of chamomile tea, weeds or Jägermeister. By the way, there is something of an herbal liqueur: perhaps a slight bitterness, or the general mood, but if you compare - it is closer to home herb lemonade, which you drink and feel tongue biting pieces of leaves.
The most dynamic and fun fragrance from Arte Profumi collection has the texture of shaving foam and is remotely like that smell: a subtle, icy, yuzu; crisp, freshly picked rhubarb and tickling petitgrain - it's great to wear it with your partner (attention: use this treasure carefully).
To become a hit at the niche party, Arte Profumi, strictly speaking, only needs a competent and unified distribution, a significant decoration of corners: classical bottles with silver caps are pretty, but it's not easy to see it when all around is adorned with gold and Swarovski crystals.
P.S. In addition to the alcohol-based perfumes, the brand produces fragrances using oil bases (without spray, available in their own boutique on via del Leone in Rome), and a home scents collection.
Photo: Arte Profumi, Etsy.com
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