Brioni (2009) by Brioni

So, finally I was able to try this expensive, sought-after (and discontinued?) “gem”. I’m usually quite a fan of tailors/bespoke brands fragrances, they often seem to put some more budget and care in their products, and seem able to infuse them with some true sense of class and discreet elegance contrary to many other designers - not to mention niche. To this extent, Brioni is not an exception and would be surely worthy a normal high-end designer price. Is it worthy *that* price I see on eBay and online shops now? Absolutely no. Not at all. It’s as much nice as far from being particularly memorable from any extent. It is basically a really decent, refined masculine citrus-woody fragrance with some smoke, cedar, lavender, some balsamic and crisp herbs and spices – shortly, a really classic citrus-green cologne with a classy Mediterranean vibe and a subtle woody-soapy bone-structure. A competent, classic “sunny” scent with some smoky wood and an above-average refined presentation. But still, really nothing more thant a good designer, something dozens of other fragrances are as well – either designers, or niche’s “designer in disguise”. From some Hermès, to some Dior (Eau Sauvage line in particular) to some recent Guerlain (Coriolan meets Homme L’Eau Boisée), to Boellis, with a sprinkle of Kenzo too - bearing in mind you can almost get one for each, at the total price of a single Brioni Eau de Toilette. Unremarkably solid, with a completely insane price tag. 

6,5/10
From the moment I smelled the new Brioni I knew there was something classic about it. I had smelled this before somewhere. . . . and then it hit me - Patou Pour Homme Prive. The fabled classic fougere from Jean Patou that was abruptly discontinued in the 1990's has a magical lavender note tempered by galbanum, bergamot and other greens then mellows out with coumarin and oakmoss. Well guess what, Brioni is a very smooth Italian constructed classic mens scent that has a beautiful lavender dominant opening altered by bergamot, galbanum and vetiver and then is smoothed out with patchouli and settles on a base of tonka bean softened and dried with oakmoss. The opening and closing are exactly like the PPHPrive classic. I tried them side by side and the Brioni is smoother while PPh Prive is a but fuller with age. Prive has iris and possibly a hint of sandalwood missing in the Brioni. But by scent alone could easily be a cousin, if not a fraternal twin to Brioni.

I think the Brioni creation could also emerge as a classic fragrance and it definitely smells good enough to be treasured by many. As with all things Brioni the price is rare as well - asking $250 (110 ml.) or $500 (300 ml.)!!! The few who can afford this will enjoy it!

Even long after application, the two fragrances smell very similar. Brioni is a wonderful traditional mens lavender based fougere scent. But it is not simple. It has notes of lavender, lemon green notes,earthy vetiver, silvery patchouli, soft hay like tonka and leathery oakmoss. It bears seamless construction and the transitions befit the tailoring of the house of Brioni. But my overall impression is to be reminded of another by gone classic - is it a reincarnation of or just a memory of Patou Pour homme Prive?