terça-feira, 10 de novembro de 2015

My Favorite Lavender Fragrances, Part I of II

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

Summary: Marlen discusses some of his favorite lavenderfragrance discoveries along his journey from being lavender-averse to now being a true lavender-lover. Leave a comment below about your favorite lavender fragrances for your chance to receive a 5ml decant of Sonas from Fragrances of Ireland, shipped anywhere in the world, FREE!
Intro: For a background on lavender - what it is, where it grows & how it's used - check out Fragrantica's "Notes" page by clicking HERE. Excerpt:

"The English word “lavender” probably comes from Latin “lavare” meaning “to wash.” The origin of the modern name refers to the ancient tradition of using lavender in perfumed oils for bathing, as practiced in the times of the Roman Empire. Another possible interpretation stems from the earliest known English name for this herb – livendula. Livendula is Latin name for livid or bluish color, and bears a strong reference to the violet flowers of lavender." - Martina
 
Growing up, lavender was a scent I only associated with aromatherapy, household cleaning products and potpourri. As such, it never brought me any enjoyment to wear it as a personal fragrance; I regularly turned up my nose at fragraces that prominently featured the purple flowering plant. Bottles of Caron pour un Homme that sat on shelves of local discount stores seemed downright awful in their evocation of dry, dusty, Play-Doh; the bags of lavender buds at the local alternative market, though soothing, seemed medicinal; and the bar of Bronnley lavender soap my mother inserted into my bathroom shower was just barely acceptable in its herbal bitterness. And so for years I associated lavender with cleanliness, washing, and organic markets. 
Somehow, something shifted in my personal aromatic landscape and I can't quite put my finger on what it was. Have you ever had that experience where something that once turned you off should suddenly become an obsession? 
Over the last 3 years I have fervently explored over 100 lavender-themed fragrances and what follows is a list of some of my favorites. Obviously, I was limited by price, availability and time, so please help me consider fragrances I've missed by leaving a comment below!
What I've learned is that straightforward lavender fragrances such as eau de colognes just don't keep my attention nor do they stay on my skin; I often have that problem of "where did it go?" with lavender scents. I much prefer lavender blended with other key notes such as vanilla, woods, musk and amber. I've also learned that I dislike some of the rawer, more true to life lavender aromas that offer citric (Yardley), capmphorous (essential oils), or earthy/meaty tones (Penhaligon'sLavandula). As such, some of you might find me a bit of a wimp when it comes to the list below. 


1. Fragrances of Ireland, Sonas - Lavender, Ylang & Peru Balsam
Description & Notes: "SONAS is based on one of the first blends of perfume oils perfected by Fragrances of Ireland, it is one of our oldest formulas. For those who love lavender our unique blend of lavender oil has been a firm favourite for many years and this year we have updated this classic using natural essential oils including: orange, basil, peru balsam and ylang ylang and lavender that has been harvested and distilled at our farm house in Kilmacanogue to create a wonderful fresh summer fragrance." Perfume.ie, the website for Fragrances of Ireland:
Price: ~ $30 USD for a 50ml spray (purchased online).
The Bottom Line: Wow, hands down my current favorite lavender aroma, Sonas (Irish for "happiness") was true love from the moment I first tried it at Raglan Road Irish Pub in Disney Springs (Florida). With citric topnotes that quickly give way to a warm, ambery finish, the lavender here is straightforward but sweetened, an aspect that I really love about Sonas. Sillage is quiet and development is fairly linear. but the longevity is surprisngly good. Easy to wear, affordable, and comforting; my gold standard and the only lavender fragrance of which I keep a back-up bottle.
Try this if you like: Simple but sweet lavender; the authentic aroma smoothed out by a subtle vanillic base.


2. Caron pour un Homme - Lavender, Vanilla & Amber
Description & Notes: "Created in 1934, it was the first fragrance designed exclusively for men. Authentic, fresh and sensual, it is passed on from generation to generation. Accords: Lavender, vanilla, amber." ParfumsCaron.com
Price: ~ $30-$50 USD for a 50ml spray (purchased at online discounters).
The Bottom Line: As noted above, this was one of my first experiences with a lavender fragrance and it took years for me to come around to appreciate it. The dry powder (as opposed to the foody vanilla of Lavanilla) that plays up the vanillic tones of wild lavender may be offputting to some but once folks fall for it, they tend to fall deeply. Pour un Homme is often used as a point of comparison for many of today's lavender aromas. Caron also offers a new Sport version (haven't tried it yet), a Millesime version that highlights the unique qualities of the 2014 French lavender harvest (never tested it), and a pure parfum version titled Impact (I own it; sweeter and a bit more serious but oddly similar longevity). The Eau de Toilette has average sillage and longevity and is completely linear. Once upon a time there was a body perfume oil version and I have been hunting for another bottle since my own took a dive off the bathroom counter and cracked. Help!?
Try this if you like: Powdery lavender, vanilla, a hint of musk and amber.


3.  Mauboussin Homme Eau de Parfum - Lavender & Sandalwood
Description & Notes: "Mauboussin Homme by Mauboussin is an Oriental Fougere fragrance for men. Mauboussin Homme was launched in 2003. The nose behind this fragrance is Alberto Morillas. Top notes are rosemary, lavender and bergamot; middle notes are patchouli, cinnamon and sage; base notes are sandalwood, musk and vanilla." Fragrantica.com
Price: ~ $25-$75 USD for a 100ml spray (testers are somewhat easy to locate online).
The Bottom Line: I own both the EDT and EDP of this one and find the EDP to be a bit sweeter and richer with better longevity. The star here is lavender set against patchouli, sandalwood and vanilla. Though the composition is nothing groundbreaking, as far as oriental aromas where lavender takes center stage, Mauboussin is pretty unbeatable. Compared to fragrances like Guerlain Heritage and Jicky for example, Mauboussin Homme is less earthy and a bit sweeter thanks to the vanilla. Sillage and longevity are average to excellent, the bottle is striking, and the price can be surprisingly affordable.
Try this if you like: Woody fragrances; scents like Gucci Envy for Men, FlorisSantal, or Carven Homme (1999).


4. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lavande Velours - Lavender, Sandalwood & Iris
Description & Notes: "Lavande Velours is a harmonious alliance of lavender and violet, followed by refined notes of iris, sandalwood and vanilla in powdery trace." Fragrantica.com
Price: ~ $100+ USD for a 125ml spray (due to its discontinued status).
The Bottom Line: A velvety smooth lavender and woods fragrance, it's really no surprise that I would love this one, being such a huge fan of what Guerlain does with sandalwood, iris and lavender, in general. The beauty of Lavande Velours is the fascinating and complex development - though it starts out fairly straightforward with accents of sweet violet, the topnotes quickly transform into a base of spicy, creamy sandalwood and iris creating the kind of basenotes one remembers from original Samsara Eau de Parfum. In fact, I like to think of this as "Lavandamsara", lol. Though not listed in the composition, I always detect a bit of cinnamon, but this may be due to the sandalwood which sometimes gives off that kind of sweetly-spicy tone. Longevity is great as is sillage, especially in the first few hours.
Try this if you like: Cinnamon and sandalwood; this one packs a bit of spicy oriental punch as it develops.


5. Czech & Speake's Oxford & Cambridge - Lavender, Mint & Moss
Description & Notes: "Oxford & Cambridge is a fresh and invigorating fragrance reminiscent of the English countryside, varsity matches and the great British sporting tradition. The scent is quintessentially English, containing a blend of English and French lavender, topped with herbaceous peppermint, rosemary and bergamot on a base of warm oak moss. Available in 100ml Cologne. Introduced in 1994. The nose is John Stephen." Fragrantica.com 
Price: ~ $130 USD for a 100ml spray.
The Bottom Line: One of the pricier scents on this list, Oxofrd & Cambridge often splits those who try it: some feel it too simple and linear for the price considering its fleeting demeanor as a cologne; others greatly enjoy the hebral, minty vibe. I was lucky enough to find a bottle at a discount and really enjoy wearing it, though the longevity and sillage do leave a bit to be desired. And what's funny is that despite the fact I'm not really a mint lover, I do greatly enjoy the overall green, mossy tones of O & C.
Try this if you like: Mint - you've really got to LOVE mint to appreciate Oxford & Cambridge.


What are some of your favorite lavender fragrances? I'll be back next week with Part II of my list where I'll also note some of the other scents I've tried that deserve an honorable mention as well as scents I've been longing to try. 

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