by: Serguey Borisov
Elisabeth of Poland, (1305–1380), Queen consort of Hungary and regent of Poland
Elisabeth of Poland with her sons
The history of modern European perfumery began in Hungary in the 14th century. The exact date of invention is unknown, but French King Charles V (Charles the Wise), a lover of smells, received Hungary Water as a gift in 1370. The first fragrant alcohol-based lotion, named Eau de la Reine de la Hongrie (or Hungary Water), was a distillate of flowering rosemary and maybe thyme, according to the old recipe by an unknown author. Later formulas were expanded by lavender, mint, sage, lemon, marjoram, orange blossom, etc. The Hungarian Queen Isabella (or Elizabeth), according to a book published in 1660, managed her wedding with the Polish king by regularly using this lotion. Eau de la Reine de la Hongrie was not only perfume, but also skin tonic, lotion, a remedy, and a repellent—it's possible that it was used as a means of any anti-epidemic disease control. Hungarian water was popular for centuries, until the 18th century when citrus colognes took over the market.
Famous Visegrad Castle, built by Charles Robert
Some centuries later, before Christmas 2014, a new Hungary water, Eau de Hongrie appeared in Paris. This time the perfumer is known: the fragrance was created by the young and talented Hungarian perfumer Viktoria Minya. Five years ago, she learned the history of Eau de la Reine de la Hongrie at the perfumery school ISIPCA. The story of the "proto-cologne" or the first modern alcohol-based fragrance made her dream of a new, modern Hungarian Water.
The new perfume formula of Eau de Hongrie is very far from the aromatic field of rosemary, thyme and lavender—there is no need for it to have any anti-epidemic properties. Our century's perfumes are about pleasures and hedonism, not about revival and hygiene. And modern cosmetics offer much better results for the complexion than rosemary distillate.
What could be the Hungarian perfume of the 21st century, then?
One of the long-time symbols of Hungary is the world famous Tokaji Aszú, a noble topaz-colored dessert wine, which became the world's first wine controlled by origin. This is the “wine of kings and king of wines” that remains a favorite drink of Royals and the Vatican alike. So Viktoria devoted Eau de Hongrie to this sweet treasure of Hungary. The perfume flacon in the form of a wine bottle in a wooden box also hints at the Tokaji Aszu. You can find Tokaji Essencia bottles so rare and old that ordinary people are unable to buy them and instead taste it by tablespoon in the Tokaji museums (where you have to pay quite a sum for every spoonful!).
Side remark: This is a good approach that should be applied by any art director who plans to launch a national perfume. Like, instead of copying other popular concepts and perfumes, start with choosing a national symbol that is well-known internationally and which makes your compatriots happy about it. I'm looking at you, art directors of Russian brand Denis Simachev. Choose the national tree, the national bouquet of wild flowers, the national drink, a well-known person or character, or even a ritual and give it to perfumers as a puzzle to solve: how to find the best way to express this symbolic image in the olfactory field. It turns out that foreign perfumes, including Masque Milano Russian Tea , Eutopie #6, Le Bolshoi de Guerlain, Fueguia 1833 Suprematisme, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Ciel de GUM, Vodka On The Rocks Moscow by Kilian, Aleksandr by Arquiste, all the fragrances by The Vagabond Princemake it better than we Russians do! End of remark.
The special delight of Viktoria Minya Eau de Hongrie is that the fragrance is not equal to the taste and nose of the wine. Viktoria did not make an olfactory copy, but created the metaphor of Tokaji; the perfume recalls the dessert wine on several parameters—it's slowly intoxicating, it's not overpowering, it's honey-sweet—but at the same time, it's a light, fleeting fragrance. I recalled all the other scents of Viktoria and I suddenly realized that each of them has a certain chord associated with a tasty and fragrant alcohol. It was rum accord in the original Hedonist. In Hedonist Rose I recall white wine and peach liqueur; in Hedonist Iris one can find a rare crème de violette. Thus,Eau de Hongrie only continues the general trend of the Viktoria Minya brand: you need the right perfume and a little drink to feel good!
Eau de Hongrie reminds me of the original perfume Hedonist by Viktoria Minya, except that it's more relaxed, a less pompous-powdered fragrance with some citrus allure. Instead of spiced rum and peach, one could smell light wine and easygoing honey gingerbread notes that appear in the perfume. Now it is not just for the theatrical premiere of the year and beautiful ballroom dresses, but also any other situation.
Eau de Hongrie is probably attributed to the gourmand and oriental fragrance category. The sweet nectar of everlasting flower, honey, sandalwood and amber show their soft but appealing facets. It is the smell of the breeze near a bakery and a confectionery—a delightful neighborhood!
Notes: Lemon, Grapefruit, Jasmine, Honey, Sandalwood, Clove, Immortelle, Labdanum, Musk, Tonka beans, Tokaji Wine Accord.
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