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terça-feira, 5 de janeiro de 2016

Paris Baroque - We Haven't Seen The Last Of Jean Couturier

by: Miguel Matos

Paris Baroque is a feminine fragrance that was timidly launched in 2015 as an example of the new spirit of Jean Couturier, the brand that delivered the world the great work of art which is Coriandre back in the 1970's. When I first saw it, Paris Baroque's communication gave me the impression of being an edition aimed to younger women, with a fruity-floral composition. Even if it is from Jean Couturier this brief description kept me away from trying it; last October in Cannes at the TFWA expo I met the owners of the brand and I finally smelled this endearing creature.
Paris Baroque it not really my personal style of scent. However, I can say that it enchanted me as soon as I laid eyes on it. The simple but elegant bottle, the romantic overall sensation and something of a classical vibe really grasped my attention. Sympathy for the brand had some role, too. I admire Coriandre very much and I regularly wear it so I have a natural emotional connection to this name. In the last months I have been working with the bottle of Paris Baroque in front of me in my living-room/office and I regularly have the urge to spray it. One thing I tell you: don't overlook it like I did initially, for this is a very nice scent.
Paris Baroque starts with a fruity aspect, but a very fresh one, a transparent mood based on red berries, black currant and the slightest touch of juicy litchi. I can feel some bergamot and what appears to be the foreplay for a chypre accord. It is pleasant, refreshing and uplifting. What follows is a floral symphony of roses. Roses and patchouli, that's what my nose tells me are main players. And there is an occasional whiff of dark bitter chocolate that makes it have a gourmand twist, although it never becomes a sweet fragrance. It is this bitter/sweet aspect that bewitches me, with the roses and the overall transparency of the blend. The perfume is light but it stays for a decent amount of time on the skin. For me this is a spring fragrance and I bet it blooms wonderfully in warm weather. The patchouli is rather assertive and it gives the fragrance an earthy character. If the perfumer added a bit of oakmoss and if the concentration was stronger this would be a perfect chypre. It sometimes reminds me of Tea Tose or the rose in Aromatics Elixir, maybe a sweeter adolescent version of it.
The concept of this fragrance is based on an interpretation of the baroque style and it is inspired by Paris in particular. Well, I don't see the connection between the perfume and its concept but generally I don't care much about the marketing fantasy. The juice is good and that's what matters to me. But I have to say that I do love the bottle - a faceted glass prism that catches light and spreads it in various directions - as well as the delicate pink liquid and a simple but chic stopper. Unpretensious and elegant: two key words for this edition.

I think this is an interesting evolution for the Jean Couturier brand, since we all know it for Coriandre and it has been under the radar for a long time now. Paris Baroque is a whole different perfume, but it has the same classic character, even if it brings the fruitchouli vibe in it. This way the modern young woman can find something familiar to establish an easier connection to. But again, in my way of thinking and smelling, this is a modern chypre that demonstrates how to look at the past as inspiration for the present. 
Top notes
litchi, currants, black currant, peach and freesia
Heart notes
neroli, rose, heliotrope, jasmine, powdery notes
Base notes
patchouli, cedar, vanilla, amber and musk
I can't say that Paris Baroque is groundbreaking or original, but it's so pleasant and refined, it deserves more attention. And the price is more than appealing... One thing I know for sure: Paris Baroque is an overlooked beauty.

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