Profumi d'Art: A Journey from Calabrian Bergamot to Rose Taif

by: Serguey Borisov

We were introduced to Arturetto Landi and his original project during an online interview last month. Now, when the Profumi d'Art by Art Landi boutique was just opened in the Dubai Mall (Galeries Lafayette, Ground level) it is time to try the Profumi d'Art collection fragrances. In addition, all seven perfumes are already available on the official brand website (www.profumi.de). They have the same uniform titles as the packaging for the replaceable units: art 01, art 02, and so on, but also some clarifying notes.

Art 01 Acqua Mia

Let's start by the numbers, from the first Art 01 Acqua Mia. “My water” or “my cologne” is a high-quality cologne with a fresh citrus start and a raspy woody-spicy drydown. Something like Eau de Guerlain or Eau de Rochas colognes, that it seems were extinct for some time, as the 21st century is the time for freshest, smoothest and sleekest colognes. Art 01 Acqua Mia fit just right to refresh the memories of how our fathers used to bathe n colognes in times long gone. With this cologne we could pass the father baton and bring it to the next level of price and longevity. It seems that the oud from Thailand mentioned in the official pyramid was needed in this cologne only for one purpose: to make wealthy Arab customers pay attention to it. Honestly, I do not smell any oud. Instead I can detect some patchouli, then less so vetiver, and some dirty animal note that it is possible to detect only when I warm the perfumed spot on my skin with moist breath and carefully inhale from that spot immediately: the smell of animal is hiding there.

Art 01 Acqua Mia
Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Basil;
Heart notes: Lavender, Jasmine, Iris;
Base notes: Patchouli, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Oud, Oakmoss and Musk.

Art 02 Voglie di Mare

Art 02, with Art 01, forms the nominal “Mediterranean part” in the Art collection. A fresh and energetic accord including green leaves, woods, mossy and aquatic-floral molecules is calling us to the sea. Of course, the aroma of the sea is highly decorated—there is too much masculinity and artistry to consider the smell as natural. And is it a coincidence that the word “artificial” takes its roots in “art?”

It's a strong muscular perfume that can overcome any cruel summer heat, as well as its maritime field competitors like Acqua di Sale by Profumum Roma or Salina by Laboratorio Olfattivo. Among its others advantages: long sillage, a unique longevity, and a combination of sea freshness with resinous Mediterranean woods.

Art 02 Voglie di Mare
Top notes: Mint, Bergamot, Lemon, Seaweed, Birch, Pink pepper, Juniper, Mediterranean Fir, Ginger;
Heart notes: Lotus, Jasmine, Artemisia, Cyclamen, Cardamom,
Base notes: Ambergris, Moss, Sandalwood, Leather.
 

Art 03 Legni Dolci Bruciati

Starting with the perfume of “Sweet Burnt Woods,” Arturetto Landi has immersed himself in the viscous territory of Oriental perfumes popular in Arabic countries. Art 03 Legni Dolci Bruciati begins with sweet fruit and a lactone chord: hot peach jam, plum marmalade, caramel, candied fruits, fruits in sugar syrup and other desserts so enticing as to be unhealthy. At first it seems that we were invited to a desserts buffet after dinner. Later from the sweet dreams, wood-musk notes awaken, those of nagarmotha and Cashmeran, rich and vibrating. Finally, the perfume falls down again into oriental woody-amber gingerbread sillage, soft and nice—a good lesson in modesty and politeness for Montale Paris and others who love to marry rose with saffron. Finally, the vanillin, sandalwood and animalic ambrein/oud note—that nice and unobtrusive trio of centenarians—have the longest life on the skin.

Art 03 Legni Dolci Bruciati
Top notes: Green apple, Orange, Lime, Fruit accord;
Heart notes: Saffron, Rose, Iris and Jasmine;
Base notes: Vanilla, Agarwood, Patchouli, Ambrein, Sandalwood, Nagarmotha, Musk.

Art 04 Il Solo E l`Unico Legno

“The One and Only Unique Tree”—it's certainly Oud, or Agarwood, or Aquilaria tree. Mysterious and unique, its absolute oil or burning wood broadcasts a unique, masculine and precious scent. Undoubtedly, the tree is rare and even endangered—but there were hundreds of new perfumes already released to recreate the oud smell or based upon the oud. The nuances of its smell are much more familiar to the Middle Eastern audience and regular buyers at the Dubai Mall, than, say, average buyers in Germany or USA. To orient you about the place of Art 04 Il Solo E l'Unico Legno on the Imagined Oud map, I can say that it is somewhere near Tom Ford Tobacco Oudand Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Velvet Mood. But an hour later it shows both of them their true place—unlike in many other perfumes, here the oud oil is not only listed in the pyramid, but was poured into the bottle, and at a sufficient concentration for you to smell with your own nose. I cannot say that this oud oil from Trat province in Thailand is the most valuable oud oil of the world, but it's the real thing presented in a good, thoughtful encircling.

Art 04 Il Solo E l'Unico Legno
Top notes: Bergamot, Cumin, Fruit accord;
Heart notes: Rose, Iris, Saffron;
Base notes: Agarwood from Thailand, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Leather, Incense.

Art 05 Cocktail di Frutta Esotica

Welcome to Southeast Asia! To the tropical countries of a thousand smiles, of unknown Asian customs, of exotic flowers and fruits! The fantasy chyprish fountain of fruits and flowers in Art 05 Cocktail di Frutta Esotica confused me totally, as it happens to everybody who has landed at the Koh Samui airport or found themselves in the middle of a Khaosan road: the smell makes wonders! It's not possible to discern some fruit or flower in that whirl and to fix my attention on it for some time. Only passion fruit stands out a little more than the other berries and fruits in this “tropical fruit stall.” Some wet and brightly colorful canvas depicting fruit is hanging in front of my nose  and it was just laundered with very fragrant fruity-floral fabric softener and sprinkled with some perfume. Ritual agarbatti sticks are smoking nearby. A bitter animal accord of moss and honey adds more confusion, recalling the good old chypres from the past.

Art 05 Cocktail di Frutta Esotica
Top notes: Passion fruit, Mango, Guava, Papaya, Peach, Plum, Raspberry, Strawberry, Lemon, Orange, Tangerine;
Heart notes: Lotus, Orchid, Freesia, Jasmine, Lily of the valley, Iris;
Base notes: Vetiver, Oak moss, Musk and Honey.
 

Art 06 Esotico Assoluto

Another rich and continually unfolding perfume that seems to came from the Indochina region. While Art 05 was focused on fruits, aldehydes and honey, its cousin Art 06 Esotico Assoluto consists of a bouquet of white flowers wrapped in pink clouds of vanilla caramel cotton candy. This luxurious floriental perfume is made for a sophisticated gourmand as well as for the usual sweet tooth. Vanilla, tonka beans and musks were melted in an accord that is comparable to the great taste of Belgian chocolate. You know it could be used as a weapon of seduction, as women's well-concealed wisdom says: there's a little boy who loves sweets in every brutal man.

Art 06 Esotico Assoluto
Top notes: Fruity accord;
Heart notes: Tuberose, Narcissus, Jasmine, Orange blossom, Lily of the valley, Gardenia;
Base notes: Vanilla, Tonka beans, White musks.
 

Art 07 Rosа del Deserto

There are several historical world-famous centers of Damask rose cultivation. This rose (Rosa damascena) is grown in Bulgaria and Turkey, Iran and Pakistan, India and Russia. 70% of its world production is concentrated in the Kazanlak valley in Bulgaria; the rest is produced in Isfahan, Fars, Anatolia and Saudi oasis Taif. This rose is called Prophet rose in the Muslim world—and without Art 07 Rose del Deserto or the other perfumes like this, any collection of fragrances for the Arab market would be incomplete. It's a perfect, inspiring, exhilarating perfume of rose, with the characteristic berry-like and spicy nuances of damask rose oil. This is a paragon of contemporary and complicated Oriental Rose perfumes. Each rose-oriented region has its own rose harvest festival and everything smells like roses these days: food, air, water and desserts, shampoos and paper! Rose and fruit syrup is the oriental base in Art 07 Rose del Deserto, which is lighter and more close to the original rose oil than, say, symphonic and viscous Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations. Compared with another similar scent, Christian Dior Oud Ispahan, Arturetto Landi made his creation in a more traditional manner, dry and close to the nature of the Arabian Peninsula, while the scent of François Demachy has more European features, being brighter, sharper and clearer.

Art 07 Rose del Deserto
Top notes: Pink pepper, Fruit accord and Violet leaves;
Heart notes: Taif rose, Jasmine, Honey, Lotus, Magnolia, Heliotrope, Orange blossom and Ylang-ylang;
Base notes: Sandalwood, Ambergris, Musk, Incense, Tonka beans, Vanilla, Patchouli, Vetiver, Olibanum, Benzoin and Storax.