rom Paris’s Fashion Week:
At Valentino, romance and a movie cameo of sorts and at Chanel, coffee and 3-D twists
1. Valentino: Romance and Fantasy
PHOTO: EUROPEAN PRESSPHOTO AGENCY
In a moment that will be seared into the memories of everyone present, Owen Wilson and Ben Stiller made a surprise appearance at Valentino on Tuesday, campily strutting down the runway to announce their coming “Zoolander 2” movie. It’s rare that fashion-show guests even applaud with enthusiasm, but when the actors appeared right before the finale, pandemonium erupted: There screams, roars and people leaping to their feet to capture the moment for Instagram and Twitter.
Not that the clothes weren’t spectacular too. The romance of Valentino continues (there’s a reason Hollywood choose this label among so many choices). Transparent negligees, gold-flecked fur, tailored hoodies and intricate embroideries took the collection into a land of fantasy that is actually available to a fortunate few.
And there should be more real comedy on the runways. Keep going, Valentino.
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
2. Chanel: Coffee, OJ or Puffer Coats?
Brasserie Gabrielle opened on Tuesday morning at the Grand Palais—another of Karl Lagerfeld’s surprises for what is likely the largest fashion show in the world, by the number of guests. With a set so detailed that there were champagne buckets, banquets and waiters serving coffee and orange juice to the models, Chanel’s collection was nearly eclipsed by the action on the runway. Models strolled the bistro and then took seats. Joan Smalls vamped for a friend in the audience—at one point holding a butter knife to her neck in mock suicide. Cara Delevingne and Kendall Jenner (BFFs if ever!) took a seat at the bar for the finale, as Mr. Lagerfeld took his walk around the vast runway.
Some of the clothes were nearly haute couture with three-dimensional twists creating puffer coats—including a black moto leather puffer that deserves a long life in someone’s closet.
3. Iris van Herpen: One of a Kind
PHOTO: AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE/GETTY IMAGES
The Dutch 30-year-old Iris van Herpen has been garnering notice for her imaginative shows and exploration of new technologies in textiles since launching her label in 2007. If her career goes according to the modern formula, a luxury label will be hiring her any day. Here’s hoping it’s one along the lines of Alexander McQueen (nothing against McQueen’s able designer Sarah Burton), where Ms. van Herpen’s mesmerizing and visionary concepts could take full flight.
Better yet, perhaps some forward-thinking investor will help her fly under her own auspices. From her 3-D fabrications and fantastical gold, circular-fan dresses for fall, Ms. van Herpen is a true original.
4. Alexander McQueen: Pink Power
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Alexander McQueen, the designer, was obsessed with the frailty and strength of womankind, so it’s delightful to see Sarah Burton, the designer who worked for him and then replaced the late Mr. McQueen, delve more forcefully into that dichotomy.
That’s not just an issue of art—it’s what enabled the label to create the sort of tailored-and-draped suiting that makes business women feel simultaneously powerful and feminine in their McQueen suits. This season, Ms. Burton’s pale pink, bell-sleeved pantsuit might not be everyone’s first idea of a chairwoman of the board’s attire, but it introduces a rebellious idea—that pale pink, too, can be powerful.
The transparent lacy thrust of the collection was lovely, and in sync with the trend this season. It’s going to be a good season to invest in slips.
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