Tagete by Profumum Roma

by: Elena Vosnaki

The marigold, or "tagetes,"  is a mysterious breed rarely used in perfume. A cross between rose and Indian carnation, the golden crocus-hued yellow flowers called souci in French, exude an intense, fresh scent that is subtly fruity.

Profumum Roma chose this gorgeous note in order to compose their latest eau de parfum composition called Tagete. Combining top notes of marigold with a heart of jasmine and an underpinning of musk and vetiver, Tagete is a call to the Mediterranean, where these golden flowers naturally bloom.

Although with an introduction like that one would expect a soliflore, Profumum Roma surpasses the obstacle and goes beyond as they routinely do. The composition of Tagete is focused on an interlay of rich lush tuberose and jasmine which blend with the shimmering marigold note (which I first encountered in Lauren by Ralph Lauren in seemingly another life), resembling a garden someplace where the countryside is flanked with tall cypresses. Although Profumum mention a garden by the coast at Amalfi, my own intuition and nose take me into a far, landlocked place where the dampness from the earth is mingling its distinctive, delectable aroma to that of the flowers. In fact it might be the olfactory translation of the Grotta dello Smeraldo (above), which is indeed located in Conca dei Marini at Amalfi. The coolness of the surrounding verdancy gives a backbone to the flowers blossoming on the parapets.

 

But to revert to the flowers, the problem with cut blossomy stems wilting in a vase indoors, even more so with a florist's bought bouquet, is that they're literally cut off, severed from the umbilical cord that connects them to mother earth. This loss results in a mangled experience. Good old dirt has a way of making everything smell rawer, more intense, more insinuating too, reminding us that flowers are the sexual organs of plants and not just colorful Smarties placed atop cupcakes for decoration purposes.

Tuberose absolute in particular is almost painful in its intensity and enhancement in 3D Hi-Fi of the natural blossom. With aspects of raw meat, of sweet fruity chewing gum and of rubber bands, it's no wonder it's a polarizing flower note. Profumum have already given us an etude on tuberose with their Tuberosa, beckoning, seducing, giving ultimatums even to get her own way. But whereas Tuberosa is citrusy in its introduction, like a woman who hides her stubborn nature under a polished and innocent facade to reveal it in histrionics later on (and what tuberose isn't indulging in histrionics at some point?) in Tagete the floral heart is given a mossy contour that mollifies her the way a paternal embrace makes everything seem like it's going to go all right after all. That's not to say that you won't be saying "aaaah" upon smelling it, because you will, but its creamy and fresh aspects will make it an easier bet than most.

Tagete by Profumum is destined to appeal to the "femmes," be they of the female or the rarer but bolder male persuasion, such is its evocative power. It's a lush floral with a smattering of earth still attached to its stems and all the better for it.

The new fragrance is available as an eau de parfum spray of 100 ml, retailing at  €204, available at stockists who stock Profumum Roma fragrances.

Image of Grotto dello Smeraldo: Terracotta Sunset Bubbles of Positano