by: Serguey Borisov
Let me just say in the first line: these are definitely NOT the best perfumes ofEsxence 2015. These are the few scents that happened to hook me, and I have no idea how and why. They happened to be suddenly mine, as if they were created for me. So they were like the love described by Bulgakov in The Master and Margarita, a love that jumped out, “as a killer pops out of the ground in the alley! The lightning strikes like that, or the Finnish knife!” I do not think the perfumes are the best in the world. They may be imperfect—a lover is not always the winner of beauty contests—but love always takes place deep in our heart.
This list does not include the most beautiful perfumes or the most original perfumes. There is no reason for Love, and this beautiful and blind creature usually does not respond to the question, “Why?” I will describe them in no particular order.
This list does not include the most beautiful perfumes or the most original perfumes. There is no reason for Love, and this beautiful and blind creature usually does not respond to the question, “Why?” I will describe them in no particular order.
Eutopie №9
The new perfume by the French brand of Elodie Pollet is dedicated to Sage. The gray-green colored coffret hints at this in some way, but it cannot express the feeling of musky-woody fougere paradise I feel smelling it.
Perfumer Sonia Constant from Givaudan made a perfume not as bright green as its two Parisian twins № 7 and № 8, but so fresh with violet leaves, as we remember Fahrenheit Christian Dior Fahrenheit and so musky-cocooning as Jean-Paul Gaultier Le Male. The base notes are some indescribable magnetic musky substance.
Two perfumes inspired by tattoos and inks. The first perfume is a rare limited edition based on castoreum absolute with animalic musk and some cosmetic freshness. It smells very wild and animalistic, in a pirate way. By the way, fans of tattoos often tell how hard it is to stop decorating the body—and it is difficult to stop sniffing parts of the body as well.
Perfumer Vincent Micotti made this drug for the nose as a concept perfume on the theme of human skin odor for exhibition Pitti Fragranze 2014, but offered it to a pair of Swiss stores and soon, to everyone. The second perfume is a more balanced and perfume-smelling thing on the topic of tattoo ink; it is reminiscent of the smoke and tar, and powder, and wet cardboard, gouache, so by the perfume Amelie Bourgeois established a well-done Swedish version of Cuir de Russie or Comme des Garçons Black.
The highly pleasant perfume, so unexpected a finding for a Siberian resident in high-fashioned Milano. The smell of conifer resin, fir cones, twigs, poplar buds and other sticky taiga goodies always reminds me of a hot summer. However, I have no idea how this sweet greenery could work for the people of New York or Moscow, who never been further than suburban superrmarkets—for them it will be rather a vanilla perfume with a surprisingly green resinous start and heart. For me, this fragrance is the closest relative of the beloved and long ago discontinued into oblivion Seve Exquise by Victoire Gobin-Daude. Great find!
A huge bouquet of dusty and bitter daffodils in a dry cardboard box of fruity labdanum and oakmoss absolute.
A top of patchouli, a bottom of musks – it's dry and bitter medicine. Traditionally, Humiecki & Graef fragrances created to express a certain emotion, and Abime is no exception. In the case of Abime it's the sweet pain of mental anguish. As painful as it is abrasive by the surface of the heart. As sweet as patchouli amber.
Un Nuit A Bali Mr. Vetiver
My vetivernaya soul just could not get past it. The recipe for its success is simple: a combination of vetiver with cardamom, rather unusual and pleasant.
The fragrance turned out as spicy and Indian-spirited as some of the Neela Vermeire Creations perfumes, although not so cloudy and multiply elaborate as Bertrand Duchafour perfumes. Pleasant overall.
Salty woody vanilla, cozy creme brulee with ice cream and caramelized condensed milk with cookies—all these perfumes (flavors?) will bring a lot of fun not only for those who keep on a strict carb-cutting sports diet. In addition, they are perfectly fit to cute children and “kidults” (kid+adult), forming an aura of innocence and Cutie Honey. I would not mind if the soft and cozy smell wave were to pass through the house from time to time (Milk & Friends is a mega-long-lasting hypoallergenic fragrance collection for the home).
Perhaps this is an extremely simple and even uncomplicated fragrance in terms ofAnnick Ménardo, author of Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk—but the main thing is that I love them anyway.
From the five light office scents, all very affordable and made with a French sense of humor, I had not chosen citrusy ASAP or spicy To Do List, even though they really help to work faster. I chose one I loved best—easy breezy gentlemanly room spray Comme Un Lundi, which helps us feel Sunday-relaxed even in our Monday offices.
And it feels like a Japanese restaurant. Like being in a German limousine. Like shopping in the chic boutiques of Paris.
That fan of black feathers, taken accidentally on the way to the exit from the exhibition the very last day and the last minutes of Esxence turned out to be a fragrant blotter first and then a wonderful perfume discovery!
Chimaera is the most tender whipped cream of oriental-spicy perfumes, the lactonic amber fragrance of symbolist Alexander Blok’s poem “The Stranger”: “And slowly passing through the revelers,/Unaccompanied, always alone,/Exuding mists and secret fragrances,/She sits at the table that is her own.” The persistence and sillage of Chimaera is so phenomenal, and its beauty is so evident, that I am sure the name sounds wrong.
Photos from the exhibition: Evgeniya Chudakova and Elena Knezevic
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário
COMENTE O QUE VOCÊ ACHOU DA NOSSA MATÉRIA!