Esxence 2015: One More Try to Define Trends

by: Evgeniya Chudakova

A try to define trends in perfumery just after a perfume fair is a usual approach. No doubt that I missed something and my colleagues will unveil what I did not mention, but for now, here what I've seen in Milan. 

Besides the trends already named by Elena for concepts consecrated to Peace and Understanding in the world, everlasting love and different facets of oud, I'd like to point out some other tendencies. 

It's evident that the idea of an olfactory journey is  still popular: the new collection by Gritti, that includes four scents continues exploring Eastern coasts.

There's the stunning and surprising Cruise Collection by Pierre Guillaume (Collection Croisiere).

Others include Pichola by Neela Vermeire, and a journey to the stars, but with dedication to mother-Earth in Tiziana Terenzi's Luna Collection.

Scented novelties from Une Nuit À Bali are also devoted to faraway lands. The same route was chosen by Olibere Paris with their five aromatic journeys.

X-Ray launched its Amnesia scent for Ibiza.

All the facets of Istanbul are reflected in sixteen new scents by brand Nishane.

Aromatic devotions to New York, Paris and the French Riviera were brought by Making of Cannes brand.

Italian natural perfume house Antonella Bondi pays homage to Italian lands—Amalfi, Toscana, Capri, Venezia and Bellagio.

One more travel across Italy was offered by Angela Laganà, who have ten perfumes named after ten Italian cities.

French house Evody also continues their Collection d'Ailleurs, which talks about traveling around the world, with the new scent Blanc de Sienne.

The Spirit of Dubai tells about the treasures of Dubai. 

Historical references are having an interesting moment: a new launch by Nobile 1942 was consecrated to the economic rebirth of post-war Italy,

Xerjoff launched the 1861 collection in homage to the Kingdom of Italy (1861-1946), as a united state, with its greateness, its heritage and its cultural impact (by the way, this collection can also be considered an olfactory journey, as  two new perfumes—Zeffiro and Naxos—are devoted to Rome and Sicily accordingly).

Prudence Kilgour of Prudence Paris created the Imperial Collection, devoted to the family of the last Russian Emperor and, in order to be delicate to this tragic matter, there is no strict tie between the perfumes and the story, but only some inner message. 

This time perfumers paid attention to different fields of art as well: pharmacologist and rock musician Michael Partouche created Room 1015 brand under the influence of the 1970s rock scene. Paolo and Tiziana Terenzi launched a perfume collection devoted to Gradara castle, where the fifth canto of Dante's Divina Comedia was held—V Canto. Anais Beguine this time honored Christopher Marlowe, creating perfume Marlowe by Jardins d'Ecrivains;

And Arabian brand Hadarah honors ancient philosophers, scientists, kings and travelers. 

There is an influence from spiritual sphere as well: the Kemi house explores alchemy;Unum, whose mother-brand created liturgical garments, offers "gothic" scents.

Carner Barcelona created a fragrance, Palo Santo, inspired by sacred wood.

Elena also pointed out the tendency towards complex floral compositions and I personally, can't stop admiring multiple fragrances with iris notes. They are usually coupled with violet, but there are exceptions as well.

There are the scents devoted entirely to iris, like, for example, Iris Mater by Castello di Ama from Sienna, a sunny and shimmering iris scent. Or Mythique Iris by Aimeé de Mars, with its gourmand  almond explosion at the beginning that later turns to fluffy-cozy iris powder. 

There are the fragrances where iris is oh so important: green-floral-leathery I miss Violet by The Different Company with a bright iris-green opening and a rather powdery first face.

Also, sweet-woody-powdery Blanc de Sienne by Evody. In woody-metallic Electric Wood by Room 1015, which depicts a Gibson guitar, iris is added for dustiness. At the French garden Eutopie #7 the iris note is entwined with other bright, trembling and elegant floral echoes. Vjola by Nishane opens with thick loud tuberose and it is iris that calms it down. There is an iris note in the hearts of rather classical compositions by Rubini and Eve & Daphne, in the heart of the dark  Cicatrices by LM Parfums, in the drydown of  Mr. Vetiver by Une Nuit À Bali. There is a rather powerful and influential iris in # 4 and #6 perfumes of the Collection Imperial by Prudence Paris. And two more dry and spicy scents with iris notes are Rosarium by Angela Ciampagna, an amazing incense-iris with aromatic shades and spicy-woody, with delicate floral notes, Mastin by V Canto.

Of course, this list might seem incomplete or artificially determined, but maybe it will be u