by: Serguey Borisov
At the Milan event I was amongst other happy visitors of Esxence 2015 that were able to try Ambre de Siam, the new fragrance by Parfums Volnay.
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The first and only bottle was standing on a platform in a bird cage, as the perfume will be launched in September 2015 only.
In addition, I was able to talk to the great-grandchildren of the founders of the House of Volnay, Muriel and Olivier Madeleine, who presented the new revived perfume, about the history of the House, the new fragrance and plans for the future.
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Muriel Madeline:
We will launch Ambre de Siam in September 2015, so now it's a pre-premiere that's a half-year before the launch, for distributors only. And one more reason: the perfume is like a wine. Ambre de Siam has to wait to become a real beauty.
We will launch Ambre de Siam in September 2015, so now it's a pre-premiere that's a half-year before the launch, for distributors only. And one more reason: the perfume is like a wine. Ambre de Siam has to wait to become a real beauty.
Sergey Borisov:
And how long should it macerate?
And how long should it macerate?
Muriel Madeline:
I think that two months is enough. It's a minimum for our brand.
I think that two months is enough. It's a minimum for our brand.
Sergey Borisov:
Dear Muriel, tell me, why you did not start the revival of Parfums Volnay with the revival of Ambre de Siam? It was a very popular perfume in its times, and vintage flacon collectors know it very well; also, most niche perfume brands start with amber perfume just because it sells …
Dear Muriel, tell me, why you did not start the revival of Parfums Volnay with the revival of Ambre de Siam? It was a very popular perfume in its times, and vintage flacon collectors know it very well; also, most niche perfume brands start with amber perfume just because it sells …
Muriel Madeline:
That's a good question. We started with four other legendary perfumes, Perlerette,Etoile d`Or, Yapana, Brume d`Hiver, because the Osmothèque has those perfumes conserved in its cellars in Versailles. So our perfumer, Amelie Bourgeois, could recreate these perfumes by archived formulas and then compare the new recreated perfume to the real things from the Osmothèque, to see if it's close to it. And for Ambre de Siam we have nothing, no reference perfume, it was a total mystery.
That's a good question. We started with four other legendary perfumes, Perlerette,Etoile d`Or, Yapana, Brume d`Hiver, because the Osmothèque has those perfumes conserved in its cellars in Versailles. So our perfumer, Amelie Bourgeois, could recreate these perfumes by archived formulas and then compare the new recreated perfume to the real things from the Osmothèque, to see if it's close to it. And for Ambre de Siam we have nothing, no reference perfume, it was a total mystery.
Sergey Borisov:
But we have the archive, full of documents!
But we have the archive, full of documents!
Muriel Madeline:
Yes, we have only its formula in papers. And we started from the formula in May 2014. Amelie started to find out if it's possible to make the perfume exactly the same as it was in the 1920s, but soon she said that it's impossible to recreate it, as so many ingredients are out of reach now. Then she made about 30 proposals of it, to find the right exotic amber smell, the modern Ambre de Siam perfume, but as close as possible to the original.
Yes, we have only its formula in papers. And we started from the formula in May 2014. Amelie started to find out if it's possible to make the perfume exactly the same as it was in the 1920s, but soon she said that it's impossible to recreate it, as so many ingredients are out of reach now. Then she made about 30 proposals of it, to find the right exotic amber smell, the modern Ambre de Siam perfume, but as close as possible to the original.
Sergey Borisov:
So, are you happy with the perfume now?
So, are you happy with the perfume now?
Muriel Madeline:
Yes, sure! Because I wanted the perfume with something really fresh at the head, like blue ginger, and I wanted to have a perfume that will make people travel to Asia in their imagination. I believe the perfume should surprise people by its fresh ginger start, because it's not the usual note for amber perfumes. There are so many ambers on the market, we need to differ! I like L'Artisan Parfumeur's La Boule d’Ambre but we have to be different! So Amelie brought us some proposals of amber that had different uncommon starting accords. I choose the ginger and I think it works really well with amber. The perfume should be as fresh as Russian winter and as exotic as Indonesia.
Yes, sure! Because I wanted the perfume with something really fresh at the head, like blue ginger, and I wanted to have a perfume that will make people travel to Asia in their imagination. I believe the perfume should surprise people by its fresh ginger start, because it's not the usual note for amber perfumes. There are so many ambers on the market, we need to differ! I like L'Artisan Parfumeur's La Boule d’Ambre but we have to be different! So Amelie brought us some proposals of amber that had different uncommon starting accords. I choose the ginger and I think it works really well with amber. The perfume should be as fresh as Russian winter and as exotic as Indonesia.
Sergey Borisov:
But ginger isn't a Russian plant! I could imagine ginger in Thailand or India, not Russia. Tom Kha Kai or Tom Yam, traditional Thai soups are made with ginger!
But ginger isn't a Russian plant! I could imagine ginger in Thailand or India, not Russia. Tom Kha Kai or Tom Yam, traditional Thai soups are made with ginger!
Muriel Madeline:
OK, let it be Thailand as it's this country was named Siam.
OK, let it be Thailand as it's this country was named Siam.
Sergey Borisov:
Siam was famous for its Benzoin, which was called Tears of Siam. DoesAmbre de Siam contain Benzoin? Let's discuss the old and modern components of the perfume.
Siam was famous for its Benzoin, which was called Tears of Siam. DoesAmbre de Siam contain Benzoin? Let's discuss the old and modern components of the perfume.
Muriel Madeline:
Yes, Benzoin was used in the original Ambre de Siam. Amelie used Benzoin at the heart of the recreated perfume also. As for Ginger, I'm sure that Rene Duval did not use it in the perfume. It was our idea how to make it special, after we found that we cannot make the perfume true to original.
Yes, Benzoin was used in the original Ambre de Siam. Amelie used Benzoin at the heart of the recreated perfume also. As for Ginger, I'm sure that Rene Duval did not use it in the perfume. It was our idea how to make it special, after we found that we cannot make the perfume true to original.
Sergey Borisov:
Do you feel your responsibility for the Volnay heritage?
Do you feel your responsibility for the Volnay heritage?
Muriel Madeline:
Yes, of course! We have fourteen archive formulas now, and we are sorry that we cannot recreate them precisely the same—so many historical components are not available now. And also don't forget the IFRA restrictions!
Yes, of course! We have fourteen archive formulas now, and we are sorry that we cannot recreate them precisely the same—so many historical components are not available now. And also don't forget the IFRA restrictions!
Sergey Borisov:
So would it be correct to say that Volnay is standing with one leg in 1920s, trying to follow the original formulas, and the other leg is in the 21st century, trying to please the modern customer?
So would it be correct to say that Volnay is standing with one leg in 1920s, trying to follow the original formulas, and the other leg is in the 21st century, trying to please the modern customer?
Muriel Madeline:
Well, you could say so.
Well, you could say so.
Sergey Borisov:
Could you tell us the story of the perfume?
Could you tell us the story of the perfume?
Muriel Madeline:
As far as my grandmother told me, Ambre de Siam should be the perfume of a dream. My grandmother always dreamt of a trip to Asia, but she didn't manage to go there. And she made a perfume of her dreams, what Asia smelled like in her dreams. I hope that we made her dreams come true in the perfume again.
As far as my grandmother told me, Ambre de Siam should be the perfume of a dream. My grandmother always dreamt of a trip to Asia, but she didn't manage to go there. And she made a perfume of her dreams, what Asia smelled like in her dreams. I hope that we made her dreams come true in the perfume again.
Sergey Borisov:
Have you been in Asia yourself, Muriel? Or maybe your perfumer, Amelie Bourgeois, managed to be there?
Have you been in Asia yourself, Muriel? Or maybe your perfumer, Amelie Bourgeois, managed to be there?
Muriel Madeline:
No. No. (laughing) It's just a French people dream about Asia, after all these years.
Volnay Ambre de Siam was first created imore than 90 years ago! It was the bestseller of Parfums Volnay.
No. No. (laughing) It's just a French people dream about Asia, after all these years.
Volnay Ambre de Siam was first created imore than 90 years ago! It was the bestseller of Parfums Volnay.
VOLNAY Ambre de Siam "gros fruits", 1922 |
It has been sold in the most beautiful Lalique bottles. Actually, our new story has began from the marvelous and grand picture of an Ambre de Siam flacon made by Rene Lalique, because I discovered the great photo of the bottle in Geneva in 1999.
The first Amber Siam was born in 1920 and there have been two editions until 1922 and finally in 1925. In fact, 3 bottles in great luxury edition from René Lalique will be chosen by René Duval for this perfume: the bottle "pot au feu", the "gros fruits" bottle, and the "cachet". In 1925, was born the exceptional flacon and glass bottle, blue enamel Sevres flanked by two handles gilded with GOLD
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Then I was working with art, and I have an art gallery. So I called Olivier. “You know, I found Volnay Ambre de Siam! Is it your story? The story of your family?” He said yes. So I went to auction and bought it—it was beautiful but very expensive. Now we have bottles of every Volnay perfume as our heritage, and like our lucky charms. And every month Olivier comes to the Internet to look for some vintage Volnay bottles.
Ambre de Siam perfume is really not like the other amber fragrances. It starts as a skydiving jump under a golden citrus parachute, not lacquered or sharp, but very fluffy. It's as fluffy as if the citrus suddenly sprouted corn-colored fur. Gradually the golden sunny parachute and fur become darker, at first like an orange spessartine garnet, then like a translucent amber and dark brown as a sardar onyx—that's the usual amber feature. Skeletal Iso E Super (which is omnipresent now!) sometimes emerges through a natural smelling patchouli-benzoin amber—but the fluffy fur of golden citrus and ginger stay alive for a long time.
This unusual, light, non-gourmand amber fragrance conveys the heritage characteristic of Ambre de Siam and discreet French tastes. The perfumer refused to express modern synthetics and fashionable oriental motifs openly, and retouched it under woody notes, so the perfume is not as long-lasting and aggressive as others. Well, it's not enough oriental for Dubai, but it is quite oriental for the Nothern climate. It's a totally pleasing light amber that you could even wear to the office.
The ancient character of the fragrance is emphasized even by the yellow silk cord which decorated every bottle and sample, as the manufacturer of the fabric is also a “living legend,” the French Alive Heritage Company called Au Ver à Soie.
Volnay Ambre de Siam
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Bleu Ginger, Bergamot, Sandalwood, Amber wood, Cashmeran, Siam benzoin, Base 4092, White musk, Patchouli, Saffron.
Bleu Ginger, Bergamot, Sandalwood, Amber wood, Cashmeran, Siam benzoin, Base 4092, White musk, Patchouli, Saffron.
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