by: Miguel Matos
There are a plethora of leather scents coming each year and they all tend to smell alike or maybe align themselves into categories like the vintage leather jacket, the new suede ladies' purse, the leather aromatic or the oud-hued oriental. This one is none of that. Blacks Club Leather is stylishly young, slightly drunk, has been smoking all night and it is still on its feet, fashionably dangerous and ready for seduction. Dark, sweet, boozy, smoky ... Those are the family names for Blacks Club Leather, one of the latest scents released by british house Shay & Blue.
I have had my bottle of Blacks Club Leather since last spring and only now can I wear it, for this is really a winter fragrance. All the smokes and sweets don't go very well over 15º C and so I've been waiting for the occasion to spray this. Like, for example,Ambre Fétiche, this one requires cold dry weather in order to be fully appreciated and not to overwhelm the nose. A rough night out is also in order for this composition by perfumer Julie Masse.
The intoxicating character of Blacks Club Leather is charming, but hard to cope with at first. This is one of those scents that need that extra courage from the wearer in order to get to the best part of it. I find it too sweet in the top notes. The beeswax and the tobacco—already very sweet accords to begin with—are here very amplified. Actually, tobacco is not listed in the ingredients but I can't help to associate the first things I smell to other tobacco fragrances like Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille or Lanvin's Avant Garde. But this is a different animal after all. It brings a youthfulness to it but also a gigantic initial projection. One can actually think this will be a bomb, but not quite so after a while. It settles in the heart notes and then releases all its obscure charms. You just have to wait.
The intoxicating character of Blacks Club Leather is charming, but hard to cope with at first. This is one of those scents that need that extra courage from the wearer in order to get to the best part of it. I find it too sweet in the top notes. The beeswax and the tobacco—already very sweet accords to begin with—are here very amplified. Actually, tobacco is not listed in the ingredients but I can't help to associate the first things I smell to other tobacco fragrances like Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille or Lanvin's Avant Garde. But this is a different animal after all. It brings a youthfulness to it but also a gigantic initial projection. One can actually think this will be a bomb, but not quite so after a while. It settles in the heart notes and then releases all its obscure charms. You just have to wait.
Blacks Club Leather was named after a private member club in London and surely there are a lot of people drinking cognac there. The fragrance is drenched in booziness. I wonder if it's cognac instead of perfumer's alcohol inside that bottle ... The typical smell of cognac and whisky fuses with the smoke from the fireplace and the old furniture polished with beeswax. This is very evocative and sometimes I tend to think this is not a perfume but just an atmosphere, bottled. Well, wait a little more. The drydown reveals a calm, not so powerful, sexy and masculine character. It gets more discreet, warmly animalic but not too much, still a bit smoky and woody. The evolution makes it more elegant and subtle. All the initial burst is gone, the hot drunk stud transforms into a refined gentleman with a taste for good cigars and naughty pleasures. All in all this is a thick scent, not for everyone, but a compliment-getter for a night out.
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário
COMENTE O QUE VOCÊ ACHOU DA NOSSA MATÉRIA!