This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!
Summary: A little-known gem outside of Europe and Russia, Maroussia was the first fragrance by Russian designer and artist Slava Zaitsev. Widely regarded to be one of the 20th century’s most talented designers, he was the first Soviet couturier who was permitted by the Soviet Government to label his own clothing. As such, Maroussia is as much of interest due to the conditions under which it was conceived and launched as it is due to the surprising and intriguing oriental composition in its striking red bottle.
Perfumer: Unknown; please tell us if you know!
Try this if you like: ylang ylang, animalic fragrances, powdery orientals; classic vintage scents from the 20s/30s (think Caron and Patou) and 80s (think Ysatis orFirst).
Pros & Cons: The bottle and printed packaging are charming; rarely do we encounter fragrances from Russian artists; definitely a rarity here in the USA. The composition shows its age but is by no means dated. The sillage here is greatly reduced after the first 30-45 minutes and the longevity of the EDT leaves something to be desired.
Notes: “Aldehydes, bergamot, orange blossom and peach are at the top notes; heliotrope, jasmine, rose, lily-of-the-valley, orchid, iris, tuberose and ylang-ylang in the heart; and amber, benzoin, cedar, civet, musk, sandalwood, Tonka bean and vanilla at the base.”—Fragrantica.com
Reminds me of: The first thing that comes to mind is the original Dolce & Gabbana Femme with the red cap. Maroussia shares the same aldehydic top and oriental basenotes but very quickly lightens up after its first hour of development where D & G retained its warm depths. I’m also reminded of the drydown of Molto Missoni, one of my all-time favorite amber orientals, but whereas the Missoni retained its syrupy sweetness, Maroussia remains far fresher.
Designer’s Description: N/A.
Number of times tested: 20 over the last three years.
Number of sprays applied for this review: Two sprays to the back of hand from a bottle I purchased.
Fragrance strength: Eau de Toilette
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) Maroussia has many faces. She starts off spicy with a strong, traditional floral bouquet. The animalic aspects are present from the start as is an airy, peachy, green effect that weaves in and out of the development. Within 30 minutes the floralcy subsides and the civet relaxes as the more oriental aspects (woods, amber, vanilla) begin to blossom. Sadly, this entire development takes about 60 minutes and from there, Maroussia becomes a shadow of her original self. I can imagine this fragrance offered slightly greater depth upon its initial launch; likewise, I would love to get my hands on a pure perfume version of this.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) I can only get around 3-5 hours.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Aromatic enough to be noticed by those around me during its first hour; no one could really detect it while around me after that. Likely office-safe.
Note about the packaging: A red glass bottle that recalls the onion-domed towers of the Kremlin with gold band between bottle and sprayer is housed in a red, black and gold square paper box.
Where can I buy it? Found online for as little as $16 USD for a 100 ml EDT spray.
Slava Zaitsev, Russian fashion designerThe Bottom Line: For years I had been eyeing Maroussia and her sisters on Fragrantica, always curious to experience it for myself. The only Russian fragrances I knew at the time were from the Novaya Zarya line (namely Red Moscow and Patchouli Magique, both still in my collection). While living and teaching in Scandinavia for a few years I had the great privilege of being able to do a bit of travel, and with travel comes the ability to explore fragrance. It was while in Douglass in the Cologne, Germany train station that I happened across a mini ofMaroussia (.5 oz) on sale for 4 Euros. I didn’t even test it! I figured I could easily re-gift it should it not suit me. I also purchased a bottle of the newly re-launchedVenezia EDP by Biagiotti (love!), Joop Thrill for Men (Yum! Where did that one go?), Sander Sensations EDT (re-launched; pales in comparison to the original), and Bogner Woman No. 1 (still on the fence). I have to say that Maroussia was an instant surprise and immediate love.
Who is Slava Zaitsev? After passing glances at Maroussia’s Fragrantica page, and almost a total stranger to Russian names, I had assumed this was a Russian female designer or model. Boy was I wrong. It turns out Zaitsev is not only a man, but quite an internationally renowned talent as both designer and painter.
“Clothes are just a part of Zaitsev's impressive achievements. Among other things, Zaitsev has designed a range of furniture produced in Belgium, new Russian police uniforms in 1991 and a range of beauty products called “Marusya” that are now sold all over the world. Few are aware of his work in painting. Nevertheless, some of his canvases are on display at the State Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow, as well as in places such as the Prado Museum in Madrid, the Modern Art Museum in Warsaw and numerous private collections. He has designed the costumes for some of the most successful performances in the most notable theatres of Moscow and St. Petersburg. Zaitsev is also the author of several poetry collections. He was also the first set up a young designers' contest in Russia in 1994. Apart from his indefatigable drive towards creating new fashion collections, Zaitsev also currently hosts a popular TV programme on which he helps ordinary people find their style in clothing. He holds numerous official awards, such as the highly prestigious the Honoured Artist order. He is also a member of the Writers’ Union of the Russian Federation as a result of his successful poetry and fashion books publication.”—Russiapedia.rt.com
The 1992 fragrance very strongly recalls scents of the previous decade—rich, complex, sumptuous, animalic, white florientals. I was excited that it was neither candy sweet nor a typical “eau de cologne.” At first wearing I was floored by the presence of civet, one of the aspects I most love about Givenchy Ysatis. But whereas Ysatis is a more complex, honeyed floral, Maroussia is an airy floral amber. This juxtaposition of fresh and airy against animalic amber is quite unique. What was most striking about Maroussia was not just how much I enjoyed wearing it, but disappointingly, how quickly the scent developed and then quieted on my skin. Within an hour I had gotten to know Maroussia and by the second hour I had forgotten she was there. Still, for 4 Euros, I can’t really complain.
A couple of years later, back in the USA, I ordered a 100 ml bottle for my mother and I think I ended up paying something like $15. She enjoys it from time to time, rotating among Alien, Obsession, and Love in White…but when Shalimar pure perfume is also an option, Maroussia often gets the backseat.
I can wholeheartedly recommend this little bargain gem to both men and women interested in Russian artists and designers, those who love scented throwbacks to the likes of original Ysatis, and anyone looking for something off the beaten path. And the bottle does indeed look stunning on a vanity!
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