Intrusion by Oscar de la Renta (2002)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!

Summary: Despite being developed by two powerhouses of perfumery, de la Renta’s surprisingly tame, peony-focused Intrusion was never a huge success. However, this enchanting and unique aquatic-floriental earned just enough of a following to have lingered and is now part of the permanent collection of fragrances sold on the designer’s website.

Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier and Alberto Morillas.

Try this if you like: Powdery and/or aquatic florals, citrus highlights, white musk aromas, jasmine, peony, gardenia, lily, unisex fragrances, white amber, natural perfumes.

Pros & Cons: The opening can be slightly astringent/sour as the citrus, musk and floral notes all compete for attention; may lean towards the masculine for some due to the sparkling citrus and warm white musk and amber; there are at least five different versions of the scent (see note about the packaging below) and as such a purchaser might be a bit challenged in knowing which one to get. Every time I wear Intrusion I’m reminded of natural perfumes, that’s how different it is from other scents launched at that time; it just has a very unique vibe about it that keeps me wondering why sandalwood isn’t listed as a note…I swear I can smell it melding with the bergamot. Easily unisex!

Notes: “Top notes are mandarin orange, Sicilian bergamot, star anise, grapefruit and neroli; middle notes are lily, gardenia, water jasmine and peony; base notes are amber, patchouli and musk.”—Fragrantica.com

Reminds me of: Jil Sander Pure for Men, Nina Ricci Premier Jour(though Intrusion has no sweet pea note), Etro New Tradition (though Etro is more herbal and slightly less floral), Lancome Aroma Blue,Armand Basi Silver Nature for Men, Eau de Lalique. Designer’s Description: “The Intrusion fragrance resembles no other, like the woman who chooses to wear it. It is the fragrance of a woman who asserts her individuality and sets the tone of contemporary femininity.” —Oscardelarenta.com.

Number of times tested: 100+ over the last 10 years.

Number of sprays applied for this review: Two sprays to the back of hand from a vintage EDP bottle I purchased.

Fragrance strength: Eau de Parfum

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) Although more linear than complex, Intrusion does develop slightly as the citrus dissipates, the aquatic jasmine blossoms, and the patchouli/musk anchors the drydown.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) I can get around 4-6 hours with my EDP. Every time I think the scent has disappeared, it amazingly becomes noticeable again.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Aromatic enough to be noticed by those around me during its first hour; no one could really detect it while around me after that. Likely office-safe.

Note about the packaging: First of all, let me explain that there are at least five versions of this scent that all look slightly similar: the original EDP (horizontal rectangle with tortoise shell band accent); original EDT (short vertical bottle with a white band accent and a pink flower printed on the box); an Intense EDP (horizontal rectangle with no accent); a “refreshing” version in light blue; and the newly re-launched EDP (tall vertical bottle with white accent). All versions are a similar transparent glass bottle with simple silver cap and equally simple silver and white paper box.

Where can I buy it? Found online for as little as $20 USD for a 50 ml original EDT or EDP spray (vs. the $80+ price tag of the current EDP).

The Bottom Line: Having never really been a fan of Oscar de la Renta’s fragrances (although I do love the original Oscar pour Lui), I remember being slow to sniff out Intrusion upon its launch. A rainy afternoon in Osaka led me to a fragrance counter and a chance to sample this unique beauty—it was instant enchantment…and a bit puzzling.

The first thing I noticed about Intrusion is that even though it is a floral, it doesn’t necessarily feel like a modern floral. There is something stripped down and almost natural about the lily, neroli, jasmine, gardenia and peony notes here. This combo should spell “classic white bouquet” and “femininity,” but the water jasmine easily takes over and adds an aquatic vibe that downplays the flowers and accentuates the freshness of the grapefruit and bergamot. The effect reminds me of a face cream from Lancome; I get a similar response to Etro’s curious New Tradition. The star anise is unrecognizable to my nose and the amber is more like a powdery, white amber than a traditional spicy/sweet oriental note. I suppose the tender though noticeable patchouli and airy white musk meld with the amber to prop up the florals. I am most reminded of Jil Sander’s 2004 Pure for Men in terms of overall effect. Patchouli and amber are merely anchors here rather than heavy hitters.

The other thing I think about whenever I wear Intrusion is “natural perfume.” I’m not a huge fan of natural perfumes due to my becoming accustomed to the amazing developments in modern aromachemistry, but I am a fan of natural bergamot, neroli, jasmine and sandalwood. I’ve been wearing some variation on this combination of notes—both natural and other—for nearly the last 30 years and as such I suppose this is why Intrusion has a slightly familiar vibe to it: There is something quite natural about Intrusion, and I find it both comforting and easy to wear.

As far as the florals go, I get a soft peony more than anything else. In reading Fragrantica reviews of Intrusion, I’ve noticed that some folks detect the gardenia quite strongly; if I hadn’t seen gardenia listed in the notes, I never would have guessed it was used in this composition. This also leads me to wonder how different the variations are. The lily and neroli are also incredibly subtle. But that water jasmine is powerful here and weaves in and out of the composition throughout its development. I suppose this helps to contribute to the aroma’s “wet” effect.

And now onto the name. Terrible. The first thing I thought of when I read the name “intrusion” was “intruder,” someone entering my home without permission. I don’t suppose this name helped the fragrance any as there is nothing shocking, surprising or intense about it. However, if looking for a unisex, aquatic floral with some very unique characteristics, track down a vintage EDP. I got my tester for $22 on Ebay and this is one intrusion I gladly welcome in my daily routine.