by: Miguel Matos
Miguel & Francesca
With so many old and new brands showing their editions at Esxence, it was almost impossible to visit all of them. It is such an overwhelming experience (but also fun!) that all things become blurred, but after a couple of days I gave it thoughtful insight and reached a conclusion regarding the most exciting launches according to my nose.
Francesca Dell'Oro is a very recent Italian company that is now preparing to export their fragrances to other countries. The bottles caught my attention immediately. Faceted like diamonds at the front, round and soft at the back, they feel amazing when we hold them and they are sculptural pieces.
Inside, all the juices are very different, but they all share a common vibe of chicness and glamour. Wearable scents that evoke here and there some of the smells from the 90s. My favorite was the green one with a huge load of galbanum, Francine. Green and biting at the beginning, it turns sweeter at the end. It's like a vintage Vent Vert brought to contemporary times with a dose of sugar at the base. Fleurdenya is another favorite of mine, a tuberose/gardenia combo of classic shades done in a beautiful way.
Paul Emilien Chaleur Gitane
Paul Emilien presented another work of art – his new fragrance Chaleur Gitane. Spicy and romantic, passionate like the gypsies. A fragrance that plays on textures and contrasts as usual in the line of this perfumer.
Le Galion Sortilège Elixir
After my article on the Three Lives of Sortilège, Nicolas Chabot, from Le Galion, decided to have my opinion in consideration and thought that it would be a good idea to do a stronger version of this perfume. The previous edition he launched was based on a 1930s formula and now there is Sortilège Elixir, a more concentrated fragrance, with extra aldehydes and more musk in the base. It resembles very much the 1960s vintage version I have. It is one of the best surprises for me in this Esxence. A true vintage perfume reborn!
Mendittorosa Sogno Reale
Sogno Reale, from Italian brand Mendittorosa is a new perfume inspired by a dream. One night, Stefania Squeglia, owner of the brand, had this dream. She always writes down her dreams and this particular one was so beautiful and intense that she decided to create a perfume that could illustrate it and here it is. The smell is divine, warm and oriental with sweet spices. Truly original, both scent and bottle. Who said dreams are not real?
Another writer is turned into perfume, this time it is Christopher Marlowe. This edition takes on a Baroque style with a very sexy heart. Tuberose is the main player, with woody, animalic and resinous shades. Not a screaming flower, but a very enveloping one, exuding erotic pleasures.
I was very pleased to see that animalics are peeking through in perfume, after a long period of abstinence. Now and then there are examples of this. Not only Sortilège Elixir is a wink to the golden days of animalic-floral-aldehydes, but there is also a brand from Norway who is specializing in very animalic smells.
The brand is very new and the name is Malbrum Parfums. It is a natural perfumery brand that presented three perfumes. I was hypnotized by two of their creations: Psychotrope (a warm civet-based musky scent) and the explosive Tigre du Bengale, which is a sultry smell evocative of fur, sex and carnal flowers.
Santiago Burgas Bou of Santi Burgas
Santi Burgas Oud Burgas and Egnaro
Still in the animalic range, Spanish brand Santi Burgas, from Barcelona, presented a new line of perfumes, all of them wonderful and original with a subtle vintage touch. The scents are bold and two of them are really bewitching. Oud de Burgas is outrageous, strong and schocking. The dirtiest perfume in Esxence is composed by Madagascar clove, gurjum balsam, cypriol, cedarwood, orris, guaiac, sandalwood and a very fecal Suyufi oud which smells just like a barn full of horses.
Crazy and sexy, strange and startling. Another one I loved was Egnaro, a juxtaposition of citrus and civet. Fresh and dirty at the same time, with a lemongrass effect, it is composed by orange, anise, ginger, bergamot, civet absolute, Mysore sandalwood and amber.
Dr. Mike of Room 1015 Atramental, musician & pharmacist
Atramental is a work of art by rock star perfumers Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel for the new brand Room 1015. Three perfumes were introduced: Electric Wood (the smell of a new guitar still in the box), Blomma Cult (flowers, the 1960s and sexual liberation in a bottle) and Atramental which is my favorite and evokes the smell of ink when we make a tattoo and it is oozing out of the skin. A strange but addictive fragrance.
Within the realm of niche fragrances, there is one genre that is consistently neglected: the fruity family. Few perfumers presented fruity editions and I admit that it is not easy to do an original and interesting fruity fragrance. However Jul et Mad launched Néa, a fruity perfume with a strong signature that is addictive, lush, tropical and unique, signed by rising star Luca Maffei, a name to watch in the future.
Olfactive Studio extended the range of image-inspired perfumes with a green scent, composed by a strong galbanum opening, a refreshing citrus combo and an innovative wasabi accord which makes the fragrance interesting and contrasting. The resinous base makes it grow into an enveloping drydown. Very contemporary and lively, this is a must-smell.
Finally, I have to end this report with the latest edition from French house Teo Cabanel, Lace Garden. This is a delicious romantic gardenia-based perfume with hints of green and a very creamy surrounding. It was inspired by French gardens and created in collaboration with an haute couture designer. The result is classic gardenia turned into a perfectly round composition.
All images from the event: Miguel Matos
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